Wednesday, May 17, 2023

Rouen Walking Tour

Stroll the City of a Hundred Spires:

Explore the medieval quarter of the cultural capital of Normandy. A short transfer with your guide delivers you to the historic city center. Known as the “Ville Aux Cent Clochers” or “City of a Hundred Spires,” Rouen’s most magnificent steeple rises from the Notre Dame Cathedral, a favorite subject of Claude Monet. Visit its breathtaking interior, burial place of Richard the Lionheart, English king and Norman duke. You will also pause to admire the ornate gold face of the Renaissance-style Gros Horloge Astronomical Clock. Admire the Bourgtheroulde Mansion and several beautiful half-timbered houses, and see the 14th-century abbey where Joan of Arc was sentenced to death and the Place du Vieux Marché, where she was burned at the stake. A statue of Joan marks the place of the pyre. At tour’s end, return to the ship at your leisure, a few blocks away on the beautiful Seine River.

Today was another morning when we could sleep in since we would be sailing from Vernon to Rouen. This cruise is turning out to be much more relaxing than the previous one since we frequently have only an afternoon tour. Sailing along the Seine was lovely, and we welcomed another sunny day.

Viking Fjorgyn again tried to keep us entertained, and I attended the Captain’s nautical talk. He really is quite personable. Tim attended our Program Director’s presentation on Joan of Arc, but I decided to skip that one.

Sailing Along the Seine, and the Captain's Talk

We docked in Rouen at 1:00 pm, and Tim and I joined the Rouen Walking Tour excursion. Our tour focused on Vieux Rouen, the medieval quarter of the city, and I was amazed to see so many Norman half-timbered houses. In fact, Rouen has about 2,000 of these colorful buildings that were constructed in the twelfth and thirteenth centuries. Scattered among these medieval houses are elegant buildings from the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries as well. We walked along narrow, cobblestone streets and through narrow passageways to discover some of the hidden jewels.

Building Range from Medieval to Nineteenth Century Styles

Exploring the Narrow Streets and Passageways of Medieval Rouen

The most famous building in Rouen is the Notre-Dame Cathedral, the tallest church in France. Claude Monet produced a series of paintings of the cathedral that show the same scene at different times of day and in different weather conditions. Tim and I would see several of these paintings when we visited the Musée d’Orsay after our cruise.

We were able to visit the interior of the cathedral, sections of which are undergoing restoration. The space is quite impressive. The cathedral contains the remains of four Dukes of Normandy in simple tombs, as well as many of the original exterior statues.

The Amazing Gothic Architecture of Notre-Dame Cathedral

Notre-Dame Today, and Two of Monet's Interpretations

The Interior of Notre-Dame

We continued our walk down the busy Rue du Gros-Horloge, where we passed under the Gros-Horloge, a beautiful astronomical clock set within a Renaissance arch that stretches over the street. Built in 1389, the clock shows phases of the moon and details of sheep, signifying the importance of wool production to the city’s wealth and prosperity.

Gros-Horloge (Notice the Sheep at the End of the Hour Hand)

We ended our tour at Place du Vieux Marché, Rouen’s main square, which is best known as the spot where Joan of Arc was burned at the stake in 1431. The square is dominated by the contemporary Church of St. Joan of Arc. Beside the church is a bronze cross that marks the position of Joan’s stake.

Church of St. Joan of Arc and the Bronze Cross

I especially liked the Church of St. Joan of Arc and its controversial architecture. I read that Louis Arretche, the architect, turned his back on neoclassical or pseudo-Norman styles and instead embraced a contemporary aesthetic. He said that “the sweeping curves of the structure are meant to evoke both the flames that consumed Joan of Arc and an overturned longship.”

Our guide told us that although many people hate the design of the new church, the majority love its interior. The stained-glass windows that form a colorful glass wall were originally installed in the sixteenth-century Church of Saint-Vincent, which was destroyed during World War II. Luckily, the windows had been removed and put in safe keeping until they were incorporated into their new home some 40 years later. It’s a wonderful space.

The Interior of the Church of St. Joan of Arc

Despite its bloody past, the square today is a pleasant spot lined with beautiful half-timbered buildings filled with restaurants and shops.

 

Place du Vieux Marché

Tim and I remained in Rouen for a while before returning to our ship. Viking Fjorgyn is docked with several other ships along a walkway lined with beautiful Paulownia trees.

Returning to Viking Fjorgyn

Dinner tonight was another winner, and I enjoyed a French classic, Viking’s version of Boeuf à la Bourguignonne. I also finally selected Crème Brûlée, a dessert that is always on the menu. Delicious!

Starter - Brie Pané, Main Course - Boeuf à la Bourguignonne, Dessert - Crème Brûlée

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