We Got New Phones

Over the years, Tim and I have been Verizon and then AT&T wireless customers. Our plan for some time, however, had been to switch to T-Mobile because of its free international roaming service. With AT&T, we have spent several hundred dollars on each cruise for internet access.

We would have switched to T-Mobile before our France’s Finest cruise but discovered that AT&T was the only service available at AGFO. Although we had free Wi-Fi there, we didn’t want to lose our ability to make and receive phone calls.

Yesterday, however, we finally made the switch to T-Mobile. Not only do we get unlimited data while traveling internationally, but our new plans are much cheaper than AT&Ts.

We also got new phones, and they are quite an upgrade from our old ones. Existing promotions made the costs extremely low. I decided on the Samsung Galaxy S23 Ultra, which Tim had also picked. However, once he saw the Samsung Galaxy Z Flip5 at the T-Mobile store, he changed his mind. That is a very cool phone, and I’m a bit jealous. 

Our New Phones (images courtesy of T-Mobile)

I’ve transferred everything from my old phone to my new one. Now, I just need to learn how to take advantage of all the new features.

Did We Take Our Own Advice from Last Year?

Before I started writing the previous post, I took a look at last year’s Viking Cruise –Reflections post about our Viking Homelands-British Isles Explorer cruise. I ended that post with quite a bit of advice for myself for future cruises, and I thought it would be fun to see if we actually followed through on these recommendations on this cruise. Um, as it turns out, not as much as I would have hoped!

Before leaving home, it’s important to research what to do in each port and to carefully read the description for each tour to make sure it’s what you envision. . . .

I didn’t do as much research as I probably should have, but we were quite pleased with all the Viking tours. We did not feel the necessity of booking private tours on a river cruise.

In between all the tours, try to build in time to relax. . . . Alas, I likely won’t heed my own advice since I want to see it all.

Unfortunately, I mostly ignored my advice once again. On the positive side, however, I did decide to cancel an all-day excursion and just go with the morning tour. That was a very wise decision. I even skipped out on another tour and created a sea day for myself. Still, we were on the go most of the time, and Tim and I were exhausted by the time we got to Paris. I haven’t quite figured out how to solve this one.

Tim and I both took way too many photographs and should have simply enjoyed what we were seeing with our own eyes, rather than through the lens of a camera. We also need to practice taking selfies of the two of us together. . . .

Tim did a better job this time, but I think I was even worse. I haven’t quite figured out how to make myself put the camera down, but I’m going to try to work on it. We managed a few selfies, but still need to do a better job.

Speaking of photographs, I learned that it’s really difficult to get decent photos from any moving vehicle, whether bus, train, or plane. . . .

Nothing changed here, but I did try to limit the number of photographs from moving vehicles. It was also hard to get good photographs when venues were so crowded.

This trip confirmed for me that it’s important for us to spend as many days as possible in the cities where we will embark and disembark our cruise. . . .

We definitely followed this advice and continue to believe that this is the strategy we will follow if at all possible.

. . . from now on, if at all possible, I will only fly in lie-flat business class for an overnight flight. . . . On the other hand, I have concluded that premium economy is fine for a daytime flight. . . .

We made it a point to book lie-flat business class seats for our overnight flight, and it was everything I hoped it would be. We had booked premium economy for our return, but we accepted an upgrade offer to business, and it was wonderful. It’s going to be difficult to fly any other way in the future.

My final thought is to pack light. . . . We did ok, but we’re going to try and do better next time.

Tim and I did pack lighter this time and did not check any bags. It was tight, but we managed and seemed to have everything we needed. This strategy likely won’t work when we travel in colder weather, since those items take up much more room.

That About Sums Up How We Did!

Reflections on Our France’s Finest Cruise

As I’ve mentioned in earlier posts, I thoroughly enjoyed this cruise, and it exceeded my expectations. Spending the entire time in France enabled us to get a much better understanding of the country and its history, and I especially enjoyed visiting a mix of small villages and large cities.

I loved our time in France, and everyone we met was polite and often friendly. We certainly never encountered the stereotypical “rude” French person. I firmly believe that if you are polite and friendly to someone, that person will return the favor.

One big negative was the crowds we encountered almost everywhere, especially at most attractions. I don’t know if it’s only because more people are traveling again, but I think France is just a place everyone wants to visit. I asked the concierge at our hotel in Paris if we needed to return in the winter to avoid the crowds at the Louvre, and she said that it’s crowded all year.

Guides in France are some of the best we have ever encountered, reflecting the required exams they must take. As a result, I enjoyed our excursions, both the ones that were included and those that were optional. Tim and I did not take any private tours while on the cruise and were quite satisfied with the tours offered by Viking.

I loved the Viking longships and their minimal Scandinavian décor, and our stateroom worked well for us. Although we never actually sat on the balcony, I did enjoy the extra space in the room. I glanced at one of the cabins with a French balcony, and although the room was a lot smaller, I would probably be ok with that type as well.

The crews on both ships were outstanding and always went out of their way to accommodate us. Because of the smaller size of the ships, it seemed to be easier to get to know the staff.

There is a big difference between Viking Ocean and River cruises beyond the size of the ships and the itineraries they cover, and it did take me a while to adapt to some of these differences on this cruise. Here, the schedule was much more regimented, with all passengers doing mostly the same things at the same times, particularly with regards to meals. Although I thoroughly enjoyed our meals in the Restaurant, I did miss being able to grab a quick dinner at a buffet at a time of my choosing.

This cruise was also much more social for us than our ocean cruise, and sitting with other people at meals was definitely a change. I did like getting to meet different people, particularly those from other countries, but we never seemed to sit with the same groups more than once or twice. As a result, it did get a bit tiring repeating our story to new people all the time. A quiet dinner for two would have been welcome on occasion, and Tim and I really enjoyed the time by ourselves at breakfast.

Most river cruises are quite short, and for me, a seven-day cruise is just not long enough. France’s Finest is actually two seven-day cruises connected by a train ride, and I was just settling in when we had to pack and move to the next ship. I would definitely look for one of the few longer cruises in the future, although there are several places I’d like to visit where that is not an option.

Although one big advantage of a river cruise is that the ship docks right in town, Tim and I did not take advantage of that benefit. We never walked into town in the evenings instead of dining on the ship, and we usually rested in the afternoons after touring in the morning. I did, however, enjoy the views of the cities from where we docked (unless we were tied up to another ship!), instead of looking at a large port.

France's Finest Was a Great Cruise

Posts for France’s Finest Are Complete

Yesterday morning, I finished the last blog post for our France’s Finest cruise. I’ve backdated all the posts to their actual dates to simplify things. All posts related to the cruise, including the planning for it, are included in the Categories listing for “Cruises – France’s Finest 2023.”

I posted the link to this blog on Cruise Critic’s Viking River Roll Calls forum for “All 2023 Viking France,” and I was happy to hear that several people who are planning to take the same cruise in a few months found the information helpful. I mainly write this blog for myself, but I’m happy if my first-hand accounts can help others. I know how much other people’s blogs have helped me.

The Blog Posts Seem to be Helpful to Others

It took me more than a month to finish writing the posts and editing the photographs, but I’m happy with the results. It was a good project to occupy my time, since it’s been raining almost every day since we’ve been home. So far this year, Loveland has seen more rain than in all of 2022. We’re not complaining, however, since rain was sorely needed, and the state is no longer in drought conditions. Luckily, we have not experienced any of the really severe weather that has hit other parts of the state.

I still plan to gather my thoughts and come up with my reflections on the cruise. Stay tuned.

Reflections on Our Pre-Cruise WOW Trip

After returning from a WOW trip, travelers are asked to submit a trip report to provide feedback and aid others in planning future trips. I did submit a glowing review because Tim and I thoroughly enjoyed the trip to French Riviera and Provence that was planned for us, as earlier posts here have indicated. 

Two questions that I did not address earlier were, “Was the trip worth the extra expense?” and “Would you do it that way again?” Tim and I discussed this, and we both agreed that the answer to both was a definite “Yes!” (The only exception might be if we were planning to spend all our time in just one city.) 

Neither Tim nor I had ever traveled this way before, but we surely would do it again. What were the best parts? Here are a few:

• Having a driver pick us up at the airport ensured that our arrival was carefree (even if the van did get stuck on the narrow lane!).
• Having a personal driver-guide was such a wonderful luxury and a perfect way to experience a new destination, especially when one is short on time and places are far apart. We didn’t have to deal with other passengers, the tours could be tailored to our interests, and we could enjoy a bit of flexibility in the schedule.
• Having a guide vetted by a WOW travel specialist insured that our guide would be an excellent one.
• Having a travel specialist, who is an expert in a particular region, provide advice on what to see and do helped us find hidden gems that we might not otherwise have found on our own.
• Having a travel specialist take care of all the arrangements freed us to concentrate on other things. Although I’m a planner by nature, it was nice to hand over this responsibility to someone else.

With all of the positives about the experience, there are a few things that I would do differently next time. Here are a few:

• I would study restaurant recommendations more closely and try to balance fancy places with more simple ones so we could sample what locals eat.
• I would make sure that all restaurants for dinner are within walking distance of our hotel.
• I would remember to ask to sit in the front seat to more easily take photographs.
• Most importantly, I would make sure the schedule provides some down time to relax and recover. This is what I wrote in my trip review:

“Our only recommendation for other travelers is to look closely at any proposed itinerary and be realistic about your stamina and any physical limitations. In hindsight, we should have realized ahead of time that eight hours of touring each day would be too tiring for us. However, we were excited about the itinerary that Philip proposed and wanted to see as much as possible in our short time, so we didn’t admit to ourselves that we’re not as young as we once were! Despite this, we had a fabulous time.”

This comment may have struck a chord with Wendy Perrin, who coordinates the WOW trip program, since she quoted it in a newsletter entitled, “Our Readers Say that Slowing Down Improved Their Experience.” That was cool!

That's My Quote in the Article!

Air France to Denver, with a Slight Detour

Tim and I were up early for a change and enjoyed our last breakfast before hopping in a taxi the hotel had reserved for us. We arrived at Charles de Gaulle Airport with plenty of time to spare, but we continued our tradition of one tiny mishap after another.

Although our business class tickets promised a special Air Priority counter, we couldn’t seem to find it. Not to worry, a friendly agent helped us check in on the new self-service devices.

We then joined the line for customs, where I apparently broke the gate! I kept waiting for Tim who was behind me, but he had been directed elsewhere when the machine I used stopped working. I had no idea what had happened, but I finally saw Tim in the middle of a long line. He made it through customs successfully, and we then boarded the shuttle train to our concourse. We actually had no issues getting through security.

Once again, we walked from one end of the terminal to the other, first looking for the Air France lounge, a benefit of business class, and then to our gate at the very end of the concourse. The only saving grace was that we got to see Inès, a giant sculpture of a beautiful sleeping cat. We finally found the lounge, which was huge and quite luxurious, but there wasn’t enough time to enjoy the champagne and hors d'oeuvres that were being served. Nonetheless, the lounge was a nice respite after our long walk. We soon had to leave, and we made our way to our gate where we boarded the plane into business class.

Inès Is a Very Big Kitty

The Air France Lounge at Charles de Gaulle

The service on Air France was even better than United, which is saying a lot, and the food was excellent. The flight attendant who served me throughout the meal was so attentive, kind, and thoughtful. I happened to mention that the crackers accompanying the appetizer were delicious, and he brought me another box. When I asked, he recommended a wine for the starter but suggested switching to a different one with the main course. Both were fabulous!

I Gladly Accepted a Glass of Champagne to Start

Appetizer - Pea and Mint Puree, Mixed Green Vegetables; Starter - Shrimp with Seaweed,
Piquillo Sauce, Curd Cheese Mousse with Basil, Toasted Hazelnuts

Main Course - Salmon with Slow-Cooked Vegetables; Cheese - Our PDO Selection;
Dessert - Lemon Nonnette, Opera Cake, Mango and Passion Fruit Macaron

Another flight attendant served me coffee after lunch, but the flight attendant who had previously taken care of me said that the coffee was cold and that he would bring me a hot espresso. And he did. Perhaps it was all the wine, but I told him this was the best flight I had ever been on. I cannot express how wonderful this experience was. What an amazing way to end our trip. Perhaps I need to drink more wine when I fly!

My Favorite Flight Attendant

I certainly wasn't expecting to lie down during the flight, but I decided to take a nap after all, and fully reclining was so nice. Can I ever go back to last class? Thank you, Tim, for jumping on the upgrade offer to business! 

I don’t watch movies during a flight, since I prefer to read, but I do enjoy watching the real-time in-flight map and data tracking. It’s fun for me to see where we are, how many miles to our destination, and our speed.

Almost Everything You Might Want to Know about the Flight

We'll Be Landing in Denver in 18 Minutes

When we were very close to Denver, I noticed that the plane made a sudden hard right turn. Soon the destination was changed from Denver to Salt Lake City. That’s odd. I thought it was a computer glitch, but sure enough, we were now heading to Salt Lake City, due to severe thunderstorms in the Denver area that forced a diversion.

Um, What's Going On?  Why Does the Destination Read Salt Lake City?

Surprisingly, I wasn’t even upset, but once again, I was so grateful we were in business class. It made everything so much easier to bear. We finally landed, but no one knew what was coming next. We could not get off the plane in Salt Lake City, but we refueled and finally left for Denver after a few hours. I kept hoping that we would make it in time for us catch the last Landline bus to Loveland. 

We finally arrived in Denver about four hours late. Unfortunately, because so many planes landed at the same time, the wait to pass through customs was about an hour. Although we had signed up for Mobile Passport Control, I don’t think it saved us any time at all. I guess it’s time to get Global Entry.

Yes, We Made It from Salt Lake City to Denver!

Even with the delay, Tim and I still had another long wait for the last Landline bus of the evening. The storm continued on our way to Loveland, with spectacular lightening. I had previously texted our wonderful neighbor Fran, who was going to pick us up, telling her not to worry about us since we would be getting in so late. But, because it was so late, we were not sure if we would be able to get an Uber or Lyft. Luckily, Lyft did respond, and Gary picked us up. We finally made it home after a very long day.

Our wonderful trip to France was over.

The Louvre, Finally

Happy Birthday to me! What a wonderful place to celebrate another year!

Tim and I got up a tiny bit earlier today, but we decided to stay in this morning. We finally walked over to the Louvre for our timed entry reservation, our last museum visit in France. As I’ve mentioned before, I’ve been to Paris about six times, but I had never visited the Louvre. Today, I would correct that omission. I also had not been to Paris since the construction of I.M. Pei’s Pyramid, so I was looking forward to seeing that as well.

The Louvre and Its Pyramid, from Outside and Inside

Sarah and Tim at the Louvre (We Still Haven't Mastered Selfies!)

Knowing that the Louvre is overwhelming even for those with lots of energy, Tim and I figured we’d need a strategy so as not to wander aimlessly around. On the museum’s website, we noticed several visitor trails. “The Louvre’s Masterpieces” sounded promising, and it was listed at only one-and-a-half hours to complete. “What exactly is a masterpiece? Follow this trail to find out!” We pulled up the trail on my phone, and we set out, happy to have step-by-step directions to follow.

Below is the Introduction to the trail for a little background:

Some artworks have survived over the centuries and made such a mark on history that we cannot imagine the world without them. Their influence has spread across borders and cultures, and to this day they continue to be distinguished by experts and admired by all. 

Where better than the Louvre to get a sense of the great artworks? The palace is home to some of the world’s most iconic pieces – paintings, sculptures, architectural elements and art objects by famous or anonymous artists of many different origins and eras. And no two masterpieces are alike.

The Louvre’s specialties include Greek sculpture, Italian painting, and French painting, and the Masterpieces trail mostly focuses on highlights from those collections. The trail includes the following eleven “steps,” and these are the masterpieces we discovered, as well as a few of our observations about them:

Ancient Masterpieces from the Royal Collections – The Caryatids

Four Roman-inspired caryatids support a musicians’ gallery in the Salle des Cariatides. These sculpted female figures serve as columns and were created by the sculptor Jean Goujon in 1550. This former ballroom is now where classical Greek and Roman sculptures are displayed, a practice begun during the Renaissance. I was a bit puzzled about the focus on the caryatids instead of on one or two of the ancient sculptures.

Ancient Masterpieces from the Royal Collections – The Caryatids

A Welcome Newcomer to the Louvre – Aphrodite, known as the Venus de Milo

This statue was found on the Greek island of Melos and presented to King Louis XVIII, who gave it to the Louvre in 1821. Venus de Milo is one of the best-preserved Greek statues in existence and a rare Greek original. She is quite the beauty in person.

A Welcome Newcomer to the Louvre – Aphrodite, known as the Venus de Milo

An Uplifting Sight – The Winged Victory of Samothrace

Standing at the top of the Daru staircase, The Winged Victory of Samothrace is a timeless icon of Western art, and its setting in the Louvre is spectacular. This statue depicts the goddess Victory, or Nike, alighting on the prow of a warship.

An Uplifting Sight – The Winged Victory of Samothrace

Italian Frescoes on the Walls of the Louvre – Venus and the Three Graces Presenting Gifts to a Young Woman

These Renaissance frescoes were created by the painter Sandro Botticelli, one of the most famous artists of the Italian Renaissance, and were discovered in 1873 during the renovation of a villa near Florence. Although the frescoes are beautiful, my eyes were drawn to the room itself and its magnificent ceiling.

Italian Frescoes on the Walls of the Louvre – Venus and the Three Graces Presenting Gifts to a Young Woman

The Making of Reputations – The Salon Carré

This step was a puzzle, until I learned that the masterpiece appears to be the history of the room itself. In the eighteenth century, the Salon Carré was used as an exhibition space for works by members of the Royal Academy of Painting and Sculpture. Artists’ reputations were made or broken at these annual displays, and it was here that art criticism originated. Although the original ceiling and floor remain, the room itself bears no resemblance to its original glory. In fact, I found this room to be one of the least inspiring in the Louvre.

The Making of Reputations – The Salon Carré (Historic Image Courtesy of www.louvre.fr)

Treasures of the Italian Renaissance – The Grande Galerie

The Grande Galerie is a majestic, long hallway and the most famous room in the Louvre. Displayed here is an incredible collection of Italian paintings, including works by Leonardo da Vinci, one of the greatest Renaissance artists. The space was amazing, but I never seemed to focus on a single painting. Tim, however, did find da Vinci’s portrait of La Belle Ferronnière.

Treasures of the Italian Renaissance – The Grande Galerie

A Superstar…Facing a Crowd of 132 – Portrait of Lisa Gherardini, Wife of Francesco del Giocondo, Known as the Mona Lisa

The Mona Lisa has always been the star attraction at the Louvre. In 1966, the Louvre chose to display Leonardo da Vinci's masterpiece in the Salle des États, the largest room in the palace. Although the Mona Lisa may be the most famous painting in the world, neither Tim nor I was willing to wait in the long line to get a close-up view of her enigmatic smile. The image I was able to capture, therefore, is a bit out of focus.

A Superstar…Facing a Crowd of 132 – Portrait of Lisa Gherardini, Wife of Francesco del Giocondo,
Known as the Mona Lisa

Romanticism, Topicality, Sensuality… - The Raft of the Medusa

The Red Rooms display some of the largest paintings in the Louvre, including masterpieces by the greatest nineteenth-century French painters. Most of the works here are “history paintings,” which were traditionally regarded in France as the most important and prestigious. Théodore Géricault’s huge painting The Raft of the Medusa, a dramatic scene illustrating the recent wreck of a French ship, is one of the more unusual ones in this genre. Once again, my eyes were drawn to the elaborate ceiling in this room instead of the art.

By the time Tim and I reached this room, I was mostly “checking the box” and looking only at the specific masterpieces on the “trail.” Sadly, I learned later that I totally missed other French paintings in this room that I likely would have preferred to see.

Romanticism, Topicality, Sensuality… - The Raft of the Medusa

Imprisoned in Stone – Slaves (The Rebellious Slave and The Dying Slave)

The Michelangelo gallery houses masterpieces of Italian sculpture, including the artist’s famous Slaves. These two striking sculptures, which were never finished, illustrate the mix of realism and idealism at which Michelangelo excelled. The Dying Slave is displayed against a monumental portal, which is quite effective.

Imprisoned in Stone – Slaves (The Rebellious Slave and The Dying Slave)

Bringing Marble to Life – Psyche Revived by Cupid’s Kiss

At the far end of the Michelangelo gallery is Antonio Canova’s amazing sculpture, Psyche Revived by Cupid’s Kiss. Canova specialized in delicate marble depictions of mythological episodes and managed to capture emotion in stone. I was really drawn to this one, and it was my favorite of all the masterpieces we saw.

Bringing Marble to Life – Psyche Revived by Cupid’s Kiss

A Transparent Controversy – The Pyramid

I.M. Pei’s Pyramid sparked a tremendous amount of controversy during its construction between 1985 and 1989. Although some people feared the Louvre would be forever altered, in fact, the project followed an 800-year-old tradition of architectural transformations of the palace. Today, the pyramid is loved both by visitors and Parisians, and it has become a tourist attraction in its own right. This former eyesore is now regarded as a masterpiece.

A Transparent Controversy – The Pyramid

As expected, the crowds were much worse at the Louvre than other places we had been, and visiting the museum was almost too much for Tim and me, even with the guide. I’m glad I went, and I seemed to enjoy the architecture as much as the art, but I won’t be rushing back anytime soon.

We took a welcome break at the same café where we ate the first night and decided to share another pizza. I celebrated the completion of our tour of the Louvre with an Aperol spritz, since I had enjoyed the one I had on the Viking Fjorgyn. The French attention to detail that we have encountered everywhere still impresses me. Even at an outdoor café, a white cloth napkin was spread on our table for a tablecloth.

Tim and I had fun watching some type of photo shoot near us. Two beautifully dressed women were sitting at a table, and a young photographer was instructing them on how she wanted them to pose. Jacket on or off? Hair flipped back or forward? Glass in hand or on the table? It was all quite amusing, especially watching the expressions on the photographer’s face. 

Watching the Photo Shoot - I Loved the Photographer's Expressions

We arrived back at the hotel, and I decided to finally open the champagne that the hotel had given us on the first day. I enjoyed a glass, or two or three, as I finished packing. 

When I checked in with Air France for our return flight, we were offered an upgrade to business class for just over €300 each. When I mentioned the offer to Tim, he jumped at the chance. I sort of chuckled since we had agreed that premium economy was fine for a daytime flight and he’s usually more frugal than I. Once again, he totally surprised me, but I was totally on board with his decision. And why not?! Let’s end this trip in style, just the way we started!

A Surprise for Me in Paris

Tim and I slept late again and thought we were too late for breakfast. I really don’t think we were, but it didn’t seem to matter. The staff was so gracious and served us without a question. The hotel has worked out so well for us, and everyone here has been wonderful.

We decided to take another walk this morning, passing more expensive shops as we headed toward the La Madeleine, a Catholic church completed in 1842. The neoclassical design of La Madeleine is based on an actual Roman temple, La Maison Carrée in Nîmes, France. Fifty-two massive Corinthian columns surround the structure.

La Madeleine, and What It Might Have Looked Like

La Madeleine is another historic building that is currently under restoration, and the main portico was covered with scaffolding. Luckily, the northern façade was visible except for its column capitals. It was interesting that a panel on the fence describing the project included a drawing of an earlier proposal for the building. As we left, I could still recall our first guide’s advice to come back to Paris after the Olympics – every building will be renovated by then!

The upscale Madeleine neighborhood is known as one of the richest in Paris and is home to the stately Élysée Palace, the French President's official residence. Tim and I happened to walk by the palace when we got a bit lost, and we saw lots of police in front. Shortly after we arrived, the police cleared the sidewalk and blocked the road. I don’t know if President Macron was getting ready to leave the palace, but we did see members of the French Republican Guard Band lined up inside the gates, ready with their instruments.

Élysée Palace

As we continued walking, I happened to look in a shop window and did a double take – a display of Fornasetti pieces! Fornasetti is an Italian design company founded by Piero Fornasetti, a multi-faceted artist known for using fanciful motifs such as the sun, moon, playing cards, animals, and various Surrealist imagery to create thousands of objects. My friend Herbert introduced me to Fornasetti when I lived in Miami, and I have collected many pieces since then.

Tim and I couldn’t resist walking into the shop. What a treat! A lovely woman showed us around and told us about the original bar in the showroom, pointed out many of Fornasetti’s original drawings, and described the myriad of objects in the cases. It was all eye-candy for me!

I Had Never Seen So Many Fornasetti Pieces in One Place

We were just going to look, but Tim spied a lamp on the bar that caught his attention. I mentioned that tomorrow was my birthday, and perhaps he should pick out something for me. We hemmed and hawed, and Tim admitted that the lamp was the piece he wanted me to have. I had thought he might pick out just a small piece, but I was thrilled with the lamp. Best of all, the shop will ship it to us.

Don't Tell Anyone, But I Think Tim Wanted the Lamp for Himself as Much as He Wanted It for Me!

We left the shop with smiles on our faces and finally managed to get a bite to eat before our timed entry at the Musée de l’Orangerie. This museum is located in the west corner of the Jardin des Tuileries and is most famous as the permanent home of Monet’s Water Lilies. I’d been there on an earlier trip, but I was looking forward to visiting again, especially having just seen the actual water lily pond at Giverny.

Monet’s Water Lilies were painted between 1916 and 1926 as a gift for the French state, symbolizing peace at the end of World War I. The eight monumental paintings are hung across the curved walls of two elliptical rooms, exactly as Monet designed them to be displayed. Natural light from a glass roof fills the rooms, also as he specified. The paintings surround and encompass the viewer, and the effect is mesmerizing.

The Water Lilies at the Musée de l’Orangerie

Four of the Eight Water Lilies

I Love This Museum

Unfortunately, we did not have the energy to view the other collections. Instead, we walked back to our hotel through the Tuileries, picking up sandwiches on the way. We are certainly not partaking of any haute cuisine in Paris.

Musée d’Orsay

Tim and I were feeling much better today, but we still didn’t make it down to breakfast until 10:30 am! I think we’ve come to the conclusion that we’re only going to do a few things in Paris this time. Luckily, I’ve been here multiple times, and Tim is fine with whatever we’re able to do.

We decided that today would be a good time to visit the Musée d’Orsay, since timed entries were not required. We walked across the Passerelle Léopold-Sédar-Senghor, the pedestrian bridge that links the Jardin des Tuileries with the Musée d’Orsay, and here, we noticed love locks on the bridge railings. Has this become the new location for a tradition that refuses to die, despite the efforts of the city? A vendor was even selling locks.

The Musée d’Orsay is located in the former Gare d’Orsay, a magnificent Beaux Arts railway station built for the Universal Exhibition of 1900. The station was almost demolished in the early 1970s, but a decision was made in 1977 to create a museum within the space. Today, the Musée d’Orsay houses the largest collection of Impressionist and post-Impressionist masterpieces in the world.

A Visit to the Musée d'Orsay

Luckily, with our Museum Passes in hand, Tim and I didn’t have to wait to enter the museum, and I was immediately drawn to the incredible space within. I could appreciate the architecture almost as much as the art housed inside.

What an Incredible Space - Looking Out through the Clocks Is Quite Popular

We decided to start at the top with the Impressionist collection. The museum was so crowded that it was difficult to see some of the more famous paintings, and I accepted the fact that I would need to be patient.

If It's This Crowded in May, I Can't Imagine What It Will Be Like Later this Summer

Because of our recent visit to Giverny, I tended to focus on paintings by Monet. It was especially fun to see some of the paintings that he had produced there. I also enjoyed spotting paintings of other places we had visited, and I included examples of those in the earlier posts on those locations.

A Few Paintings by Monet

Other Important Impressionist Paintings 

We moved on to the post-Impressionism collection, where we found several of van Gogh’s paintings from his time in Arles, as well as one by Gaugin after he had arrived in Arles at the invitation of van Gogh.

Post-Impressionist Paintings by van Gogh and Others

Tim and I was so surprised when we stumbled upon the Accro-Chat-Ge Exhibition, a temporary exhibit all about cats! Although we knew that cats had been represented in art for as long as art has existed, it turns out that in the nineteenth century, they occupied a supreme place. No one else seemed interested in the exhibit, so Tim and I were able to enjoy the various representations of cats at our own pace.

We Loved the Cats

I also enjoyed the expansive views of Paris from the windows throughout the top floors before we made our way back to the lower level. By this time, Tim and I were both tired and decided to call it a day.

Views to the North

Views to the West

We Enjoyed Our Visit

We walked back across the Seine and had a late lunch of quiche at one of the cafés in the Jardin des Tuileries. After Tim found a place for ice cream, we returned to our hotel.

A Late Lunch in the Jardin des Tuileries

A Day of Rest, Mostly

Neither Tim nor I was feeling 100% this morning. Tim was beat, and I was also tired, but we did finally make it to breakfast by 10:30 am. The hotel had a lovely setup for breakfast. The table was set with a basket of wonderful pastries, croissants, and breads, and then other options, such as fruit cups, yogurt, meats, and cheeses were presented to us on trays. The café au lait was delicious. We could have ordered eggs or other items, but Tim and I were satisfied with just what was offered.

Breakfast at Hotel Tamise

We went back to room for a while but left so housekeeping could tidy our room. This morning, we walked along the Rue Saint-Honoré, one of the most luxurious and fashionable streets in the world thanks to the presence of virtually every major global fashion house. 

We ended up at the Place Vendôme, one of the most beautiful squares in Paris and a magnificent example of neoclassical architecture. At the center of the square is the Vendôme Column, with a statue of Napoleon Bonaparte at its top.

Place Vendôme

Place Vendôme has long been a symbol of luxury and glamour, and it has become somewhat of an epicenter for fine jewelry. The buildings flanking the square house such renowned boutiques as Repossi, Piaget, Boucheron, and Chaumet. The Ritz hotel occupies the buildings on the west side. Tim loves looking at watches, and he had a great time window-shopping.

Neoclassical Buildings Line the Place Vendôme

Tim Thought It Was a Great Place to Window Shop for Watches

One of the shops on the square is Louis Vuitton's Paris flagship atelier, and its façade was covered with dozens of convex mirrors and flowers. I later learned that this French fashion brand has redecorated some of its stores all over the world to celebrate its collection with Yayoi Kusama, the “Princess of Polka Dots.” I also remembered seeing two other Louis Vuitton stores covered with colorful dots, as well as a colossal sculpture of the artist.

The Louis Vuitton Store on Place Vendôme

Other Louis Vuitton Stores in Paris

Tim and I returned to our hotel and napped all afternoon. We finally went out for dinner at Chez Flottes, a brasserie recommended by hotel. I didn’t realize that we needed a reservation, but we were able to be seated at the bar.

I wanted something simple and ordered Aubergine Rôtie Gratinée au Vieux Rodez and Tomate. Based on the description, I assumed that the dish would be similar to eggplant parmesan. When the server set the plate in front of me, I was shocked. It was a whole eggplant stuffed with tomato sauce and cheese. It was quite the sight! The eggplant was very good, but I could only finish a small portion of it.

Dinner at Chez Flottes