Day 4 – Pre-Cruise Extension – Ghent and Amsterdam

We checked out of Dukes’ Palace Hotel this morning for the long drive to Amsterdam, where we boarded Viking Einar for our 10-day Tulips and Windmills cruise. But first, we made a detour to Ghent for a short tour to see another of Belgium’s gems. This was the description of our day:

This morning, check out of your hotel and travel with your Viking Tour Director to Ghent. There, see the towering belfry, a UNESCO World Heritage Site; canals lined with medieval guild houses; and the massive Gravensteen, the 12th-century home of the Counts of Flanders. Admire the famous van Eyck brothers’ altarpiece, The Adoration of the Mystic Lamb, during a visit to St. Bavo’s Cathedral. After lunch and time for independent exploration, continue to Amsterdam and board your ship.

Like Bruges, Ghent is a historic city known for its medieval architecture and cultural heritage. Ghent, however, is a university town with a livelier atmosphere but is not quite as picture-perfect as Bruges.

As we walked into the city, we first saw the imposing Belfry of Ghent, one of three medieval towers that grace the skyline of the old city. We would soon see the towers of St. Bavo’s Cathedral and St. Nicholas’ Church.

Belfry of Ghent (left), St. Nicholas' Church (top right), and St. Bavo's Cathedral (bottom right)

My favorite stop was the picturesque, original harbor area, now a canal flanked by medieval guild houses and popular restaurants and cafes.

Along the Canal

We made on our way to St. Bavo’s Cathedral for a visit to the interior to see the Ghent Altarpiece. This 12-panel masterpiece, also known as The Adoration of the Mystic Lamb, was completed in 1432 by the Van Eyck brothers and represents the transition from Middle Age to Renaissance painting. Considered to be a masterpiece of European art, it is also the most stolen painting in the world.

St. Bavo's Cathedral

Ghent Altarpiece

As we left the cathedral, we had a beautiful view of the Belfry of Ghent on our way back to our motorcoach.

Belfry of Ghent, with St. Nicholas' Church Tower on the Left

After a three-hour drive, we arrived in Amsterdam, where people dressed in orange were celebrating King’s Day. This massive, city-wide party was celebrating King Willem-Alexander's 59th birthday. On King’s Day, the whole of the Netherlands turns orange, and the celebrations are legendary.

As we finished our excellent pre-cruise extension, our group boarded Viking Einar for the next phase of the trip. The 15 of us had truly bonded into a tight group, and we looked forward to getting together on the ship. 

Viking Einar

I somehow neglected to take any photographs of the ship or my cabin, but it was very similar to the one on which Tim and I sailed on the Seine River for the France’s Finest cruise. It was great to finally be on the cruise.

Day 3 – Pre-Cruise Extension – Flanders Fields and Ypres

After a free morning in Bruges, our group departed for a tour of Flanders Field and the city of Ypres to ponder the lessons of World War I. This was the description of the excursion:

Contemplate the legacy of World War I during a cemetery visit and time at the In Flanders Fields Museum. Pay your solemn respects to those who gave their lives at the Flanders Field American Cemetery and Memorial, where 411 US service members are buried or commemorated. Afterward, learn about the futility and consequences of the war during a self-guided tour of the In Flanders Fields Museum in Ypres. Here, you will receive a "poppy bracelet" containing the personal stories of four individuals who lived during the war. After dinner in Ypres, stop to view the Menin Gate, where the names of more than 50,000 missing British and Commonwealth soldiers are carved on its walls. Since 1928, every evening at 8 PM the buglers of the Last Post Association sound the “Last Post” under the gate’s arches. After this solemn ceremony return to your hotel in Bruges.

Our first stop was the Flanders Field American Cemetery, the only American World War I military cemetery in Belgium. Since 1923, local Belgian school children have maintained a tradition of honoring the American soldiers buried here by "adopting" a grave, regularly tending to it, placing flowers, and singing the U.S. national anthem during annual Memorial Day ceremonies to ensure the fallen are never forgotten. We learned the story of two soldiers buried here, which really personalized this visit.

Flanders Field American Cemetery

Next was a visit to the location where Lieutenant Colonel John McCrae, a Canadian doctor, soldier, and poet, was stationed and where he wrote his famous war poem, In Flanders Fields, after he witnessed the horrors of battle and the loss of a close friend.

Memorial to John McCrea

At the In Flanders Fields Museum, our next stop, we saw powerful displays and images that made us confront the horrors and futility of war. It’s the first military museum that I’ve visited that does not glorify war, and this message was especially timely for me today. I was especially interested in seeing works by artists who used their craft to protest the war.

Exhibits at the In Flanders Field Museum

Also interesting were the examples of remembrances and commemorations that were instituted following the war, many of which continue to this day.

Examples of Memorials and Commemorations at In Flanders Field Museum

After touring the museum, we had free time to wander around Ypres, the city at the center of the Flanders Field conflict, which was mostly destroyed during the war. I was able to appreciate the grandeur of the Cloth Hall, in which the museum is located, and which was reconstructed after the war.

Cloth Hall, Ypres, Belgium

To further ensure that the war would not be forgotten in Belgium, the city of Ypres constructed the Menin Gate, a war memorial at one of the entrances to the city. We remained in the city so that we could attend the "Last Post."

This evening at exactly 8:00 pm, like every other evening since 1928, the police halted traffic passing under the Menin Gate so that four buglers could play their simple but moving tribute to the memory of the soldiers who fought and died here so many years ago. It was a moving ending to a sobering and emotional day that brough home the words “Lest We Forget.”

The "Last Post" at Menin Gate

Day 2 – Pre-Cruise Extension – Bruges

Bruges is one of Europe's best preserved medieval cities. It is significant for its authentic Gothic brick architecture, historic canal network, and immense cultural history. Known as the "Venice of the North," it was a major trade hub from the thirteenth through fifteenth-century and was the birthplace of Flemish Primitive painting. 

Today, we learned about the city on one of the best walking tours I’ve ever had. This was the description of our “Bruges by Foot and Canal” excursion:

Discover Bruges, one of the best-preserved medieval cities in the world, during a walking tour and canal cruise. Embrace the feeling of stepping back in time as your guide walks you through the winding cobblestone streets, passing picturesque ancient buildings, tree-lined canals and the gabled facades of this UNESCO World Heritage Site. See the Béguinage and its gardens, once home to followers of the Beguine religious movement and now a monastery for Benedictine sisters. Visit the Church of Our Lady, admiring Michelangelo’s marble Madonna and Child, and stroll through the vibrant marketplace while gazing at the towering Belfry of Bruges. Then, pass by the Basilica of the Holy Blood, famous for its religious relic—a piece of cloth covered in the blood of Jesus. Afterward, enjoy a leisurely canal ride along the tranquil waterways of this charming city before returning to your hotel.

After walking through Market Square, we stopped in Burg Square, which has been the center of power in the city for ages. The square is lined with monumental landmark buildings that were built over the centuries and reflect the evolution of architectural styles.

Burg Square

As we passed through Tanners Square, the former location of the guild house of the tanners during the Middle Ages, our guide pointed out the stone carvings within the arched windows that depict the process of tanning leather.

Tanners Square

Every place, including Bruges, seems to have one iconic spot for photographs, and that was where we joined every other tourist who had the same idea. I must admit that the view was gorgeous and reflected the essential character of Bruges.

A Gorgeous Spot for a Photograph

I was especially looking forward to our next stop, the Béguinage, or Begijnhof, of Bruges, since I had recently read the historical novel Canticle that was set here. A begijnhof is a historic enclosed courtyard, often featuring small houses and a garden, that originally served as a community for beguines – lay Catholic women who lived together under vows of chastity while maintaining their personal freedom.

The Entrance to the Béguinage of Bruges

The Inner Courtyard and Houses of the Béguinage of Bruges

Perhaps the highlight of the excursion was the visit to the Church of Our Lady to view Michelangelo’s Madonna and Child. Although I had seen photographs of this marble sculpture, I was surprised by how small it was.

The Church of Our Lady (Note the Peregrine Falcon in the Top Right Photo)

The Church of Our Lady

Michelangelo's Madonna and Child

Our final event was a boat ride through the canals of Bruges. Seeing the architecture from the water offered a different perspective, and it was a nice end to an excellent excursion.

Scenes Along the Canals of Bruges

Tonight, Bonnie made dinner reservations at a lovely restaurant on one of the canals, and I really enjoyed getting to know her and her sister Chris. I ordered the white asparagus, a Belgian delicacy available in the early spring. It was so tender and delicious.

Bonnie and Chris and White Asparagus

Day 1 – Pre-Cruise Extension - Bruges

After three days on my own in Brussels, it was time for the next phase of my travels, a Viking pre-cruise extension called “Bruges and Ghent.” This extension includes three nights in Bruges and is described as follows:

Experience the captivating charms of Bruges, one of Europe’s most remarkably well-preserved medieval cities and a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and witness the architectural treasures of neighboring Ghent. Pay your respects at the hallowed World War I battlefields of Flanders.

Unfortunately, when guests arrive several days before the start of a pre-cruise extension, Viking does not provide a transfer to the extension hotel. That was the case with me, so I had to get from Brussels to Bruges on my own dime today. Although it would have made more sense to take the train, I chose to hire a car and driver because of my knee and luggage. The fact that one of my credit cards offered $100 off the ride made the decision a bit easier to make.

My driver’s name was Sara, and she picked me up at Hotel Amigo and drove me to the Dukes’ Palace Hotel in Bruges. We had a lively conversation, and it was such a pleasant way to spend an hour or so.

Sara and Sarah

The Dukes’ Palace Hotel is the former residence of the Burgundian aristocracy and is in the heart of the UNESCO World Heritage city of Bruges. I was lucky that my room was ready when I arrived.

Dukes' Palace Hotel

The Viking Tour Director met me at the hotel, and she later described to those of us who had arrived the plans for the next three days. I met some of the participants and was happy to learn that there will be 15 guests in our group, much better than the 150+ who were on an extension last week.

After a short orientation walk through the area near our hotel, I headed off on my own to explore some of Bruges. I first walked to the Markt, or Market Square, the main square in the city, which was almost as magnificent as the one in Brussels.

Market Square

It was then time for a walk to discover the medieval architecture along the canals. Once I was away from the main tourist areas, the streets were quiet and peaceful, and I could take my time to admire the beauty of the city.

Along the Canals

At the orientation, I had met two sisters, Bonnie and Chris, and Bonnie and I decided to have dinner at a restaurant on Market Square. I enjoyed our conversation and look forward to hanging out with them.

Wandering Around Brussels

Hotel Amigo is one of the nicest hotels in which I’ve stayed, and the staff is extremely accommodating. One of my favorite places is the restaurant, where an extensive breakfast is served. I was amazed on my first visit there to discover so many Fornasetti plates decorating the walls. I even recognized a few that I own!

Fornasetti in Brussels

Today, I decided to simply wander around the city and visit a few of the well-known sites.

One of the most iconic sites in Brussels is Manneken Pis, or the Little Pissing Man. I’m not sure why it’s so popular, perhaps because it symbolizes the playful and rebellious spirit of Brussels. I couldn’t resist joining the hoards to pay my respect to the little boy, who was dressed today in a uniform I couldn’t identify. (I did return the next morning and saw him in all his naked glory.)

Manneken Pis

Pissing sculptures must be a thing in Brussels, and my concierge told me about Jeanneke Pis, the pissing girl, and Het Zinneke, the pissing dog. Naturally, I had to check those out as well. I have no idea what was on the little girl’s head.

Jeanneke Pis and Het Zinneke

I did manage to see some of Brussels’ architecturally and historically significant buildings, and I returned to the Grand Place several times during the day. What a beautiful square.

La Bourse de Bruxelles, the Brussels Stock Exchange

Many Visits to Grand Place

I Also Returned to Les Galleries Royales Saint-Hubert

For lunch, I decided that I needed to indulge in Belgium’s favorite treat, so I visited La Maison des Gaufres, a historic tearoom touted as the “Finest Belgian Waffles House.” Here, I enjoyed a delicious waffle with strawberries.

The Best Waffles

In the evening, I paid a visit to Hotel Amigo’s bar, Bar Magritte, named for René Magritte, a Belgian surrealist artist known for his depictions of familiar objects in unfamiliar, unexpected contexts. The bar has created signature cocktails inspired by Magritte, and I decided to try his namesake. What I was not expecting was the presentation. The cocktail was served in a bowler hat like the one depicted in one of his paintings. The bartender urged me to pose in a real hat that is kept behind the bar for such purposes! That was fun!

Bar Magritte

Sarah Trying to Channel René Magritte

Art Nouveau in Brussels

Architectural excursions are one of my favorites, and when I spotted a “Gems in Art Nouveau” walking tour, I immediately signed up for it. This morning, I began to master Brussels’ public transportation network when I caught a local bus and actually arrived at the correct meeting point for the tour. It’s the little things that make me happy.

Although I was familiar with the Art Nouveau style, our guide Christophe vastly expanded my knowledge today. Art Nouveau, a late nineteenth and early twentieth-century aesthetic movement, produced a highly expressive style of architecture, as well as interior design and other visual arts.

At the end of the nineteenth century, Brussels was the birthplace of the Art Nouveau movement, and the city has one of the largest concentrations of Art Nouveau architecture in the world. We saw many of these buildings today.

We learned that Art Nouveau is inspired by the natural world and is characterized by flowing organic lines, floral motifs, organic shapes, and the innovative use of modern materials such as iron and glass. Decorative elements include intricate mosaic work, stained and curved glass, and decorative cast and wrought iron.

Victor Horta was one of the founders of the Art Nouveau movement, and we passed by Solvay House, or Hotel Solvay, one of his finest works.

Solvay House, or Hotel Solvay

Other architects also made their mark, some quite literally. A few even signed their names on their buildings.  Apparently, Victor Horta had no need to sign his work.

House Designed by Ernest Blerot

It was interesting to me that all the buildings we saw were a part of urban blocks or terraced or row houses. None were free-standing houses or buildings.

Architect Paul Hankar's House and Studio

So Many Examples of the Art Nouveau Style

Our guide had saved the best for last – the Horta Museum, Victor Horta’s own masterpiece. Our first sighting of the building was quite underwhelming, however, as the façade was completely covered with scaffolding and sheeting. An interpretive board in front of the building explained the restoration process underway and included a photo of the building so we could see what was hidden behind the sheets.

The most spectacular part of the house was the interior. Sadly, I was unable to get more than a quick glimpse of this amazing space due to the osteoarthritis in my knee, which had reared its ugly head (knee?) a few months before I left on this trip. I was already hobbling after walking so far today, and stairs are my nemesis.  I knew that climbing so many flights would leave me in pain for the rest of the day, so I reluctantly decided to just look at photos of what I would be missing.

Horta Museum

I managed to catch a tram back to my hotel, but stopped first at Brussels-Central Station, which was designed by Victor Horta, although not in the Art Nouveau style. It was a fitting way to end my tour.

Brussels-Central Station

Arriving in Brussels

I was able to sleep on the flight from Chicago to Brussels and woke up in time for breakfast.

My Flight Path from Chicago to Brussels

We were flying above the clouds, with no view below, but as we approached Brussels, I did catch sight of the Atomium, a modernist structure that was the centerpiece of the 1958 Brussels World's Fair.

A View of the Atomium through the Clouds

Due to the new European EES immigration system, I had expected a several-hour wait once we arrived at the Brussels airport, which is exactly what happened. What I found odd, however, was that this new system was not in use there, despite all the kiosks I saw. The agent simply stamped my passport and sent me on my way.

I had arranged for a driver to take me to my hotel, and we passed through the European Union headquarters section before reaching Hotel Amigo.

The Hotel Amigo was lovely and is in a perfect location. Luckily, my room was ready shortly after I arrived, and it is on the top floor with a small balcony. Very, very nice.

Hotel Amigo

After resting for a bit, I wandered over to the Grand Place, the city’s beautiful main square, and I was amazed by how crowded the city was. There were more groups of students, for example, than I’ve ever seen in other cities.

Grand Place

I also found Les Galleries Royales Saint-Hubert, the first monumental shopping arcade built in nineteenth-century Europe. Lots of Belgium’s well-known chocolatiers are located here, but I didn’t sample any goodies today.

Les Galleries Royales Saint-Hubert

Neuhaus Chocolates

Although I was scheduled to take a free walking tour in the afternoon, jetlag started to get to me after wandering around for an hour. So, I reluctantly decided to skip the tour and return to the hotel to rest. I know you’re supposed to resist napping on the first day, but I couldn't help it! I will be spending three nights in Brussels, so I will have time to explore the city.