Day 24 – Honolulu, Hawaii, USA

Viking Sky docked in Honolulu this morning on a beautiful, mostly sunny day. My plan was to visit the Japanese Cultural Center in the morning and then return to the ship for my included tour to Pearl Harbor. Tim had decided that he was better off staying behind on the ship today.

We Docked by the Aloha Tower

My primary reason for stopping at the Japanese Cultural Center was to learn about the Honouliuli National Historic Site, a unit of the National Park Service that is not yet open to the public. The Honouliuli Internment Camp was Hawaii's largest and longest-operating internment camp, and the park, when open, will tell the history of incarceration, martial law, and the experience of prisoners of war in Hawaii during World War II. In the meantime, the education center at the Japanese Cultural Center provides interpretive exhibits of the Honouliuli Internment Camp, with photos, artifacts from the incarcerees, and oral history videos.

David, a very gracious taxi driver, drove me to the center and offered to wait for me while I viewed the exhibits. Unfortunately, when I arrived, I learned that the education center would be opening an hour later than usual. I was so disappointed since I could not wait that long, but there was a silver lining. I found myself instead in the middle of the Japanese New Year's Ohana Festival, a celebration of Hawaii's local and Japanese New Year traditions. Although everything was just being set up, I talked with the most interesting and helpful people and had a very worthwhile visit.

I Took a Few Photos Through the Windows of the Exhibits About the Honouliuli Internment Camp

The Japanese New Year's Ohana Festival and a Few of the Lovely People I Met

When he picked me up, David asked if I’d like to see some of the sights of Honolulu, and I thought, “Why not! I have time.” We drove along the beach at Waikiki and then part of the way up the Diamond Head Crater, Hawaii’s most recognized landmark.

Diamond Head, Waikiki Beach, Daniel, and the Diamond Head Lighthouse

David brought me back to the ship in time for me to board a motorcoach for my “Honolulu Highlights & Pearl Harbor” excursion. Here’s the description:

See Honolulu’s sights and explore Pearl Harbor’s Visitor Center for a glimpse into Hawaii’s World War II history. Meet your guide at the pier and embark on a scenic drive through Honolulu’s Downtown area and Chinatown district. Witness the magnificent City Hall and the Iolani Palace, the only royal palace on American soil, and pass by Kawaiahao Church, the Hawaii State Capitol, the governor’s mansion and the homes of early missionaries. After your drive, you will stop at Pearl Harbor, where you will learn about the fateful attack that took almost 2,500 lives. At the Visitor Center, stroll the exhibits that document the events before the surprise attack and its aftermath, including displays of personal memorabilia, dramatic photographs and artifacts.

Our short drive through the downtown area did include glimpses of several of Honolulu’s historic sites. Although I couldn’t tour the interior of the State Capitol, I was able to see it from the outside. I also would have enjoyed visiting the Iolani Palace. These are just two reasons why I need to return.

Hawaii State Capitol

Iolani Palace

We were then dropped off at Pearl Harbor National Memorial, my first visit to the site. This memorial is a solemn tribute to the events of December 7, 1941, and here, the National Park Service honors the lives affected by the attack. The National Park Service shares the site with several partners that offer tours of other historic sites. I first strolled along the Walk of Remembrance and then toured the two exhibit galleries, “The Road to War” and “Attack,” that interpret the events surrounding the attack on Pearl Harbor.

Along the Walk of Remembrance at Pearl Harbor National Memorial

The Exhibits Were Very Comprehensive

I was also able to watch the excellent documentary film that depicts the events that led to the Japanese decision to bomb Pearl Harbor, as well as the attack itself and its aftermath. I found the film to be more powerful than others since it utilizes historical footage to portray the history of the attack.

I had made reservations to visit the USS Arizona Memorial and lined up to take the boat there to pay my respects. It was a sobering experience to stand atop the remains of the sunken battleship and reflect on the lives lost that day “which will live in infamy.”

USS Arizona Memorial

"To the Memory of the Gallant Men Here Entombed"

A Somber Visit

The USS Arizona Memorial was designed by Alfred Preis, an Austrian-born architect who was sent to a U.S. internment camp after the Pearl Harbor attack. His design features a concave-silhouette, with the middle representing the country’s low point following the attack and the raised ends symbolizing American pride and ultimate victory.

After a beautiful sunset over the Honolulu Harbor, Viking Sky treated us to a destination performance to celebrate our arrival in Hawaii. “Drums of Polynesia” was a lovely and sweet cultural performance by a local family of singers, dancers, and musicians from the island of Oahu. Everyone in the audience fell in love with the adorable little girl as she tried to emulate her mother and aunt’s dances.

Sunset Over the Honolulu Harbor

Drums of Polynesia

From One Capitol to Another

Unlike yesterday, today was a multi-stop day. The distance I traveled wasn’t that far, but I was busy from early morning until late afternoon.

One of the main reasons for my stop in Des Moines, Iowa, was to visit the state capitol. I had seen its prominent, golden dome from the interstate on my way into town yesterday, and I was looking forward to my visit. Getting there was a bit of a challenge this morning, however, since many of the roads surrounding the building were closed for a Superhero Heart Run.

The Iowa State Capitol is a magnificent building. Completed in 1886, it is a wonderful example of Renaissance Revival style architecture and one of the most beautiful capitol buildings I’ve visited. I had decided to wander through the building using a self-guided brochure, not wanting to take the time for a one-hour tour.

Iowa State Capitol

I was immediately struck by the capitol’s centerpiece, its rotunda and inner dome. At the base of the dome are eight lunette paintings that represent the progress of civilization. The Grand Staircase that leads to the second floor was even more impressive. It is dominated by a massive mural entitled Westward, which symbolizes the arrival of pioneers in Iowa. On the third floor above the mural are six mosaics in arched panels depicting Defense, Charity, Executive, Legislative, Judiciary, and Education. The mosaics, made in Venice from small pieces of colored glass, were even more amazing when I was able to see them up close.

The Inner Dome Was Beautiful

Grand Spaces

Impressive Artwork

Because I didn’t take a tour, I was unable to visit the chambers of the Senate and House of Representatives or any other rooms. A guide I was speaking with as I was leaving wanted to take me to the Law Library, said to be one of the most beautiful libraries in the country. Although regulations would not permit this kind gesture, I appreciated it all the same. After looking at photos of the library later that evening, I regretted not having taken the tour.

My next stop was the Des Moines Art Center, which I had planned to visit for its architectural history and one specific painting. The museum was built in three stages, each by one of the most prominent architects of the twentieth century. The original building was designed by Eliel Saarinen in 1948, and additions by I. M. Pei in 1968 and Richard Meier in 1985 completed the complex. When I stood in the courtyard, I was able to take in half a century of American architecture.

Des Moines Art Center - From top to bottom, Saarinen, Pei, and Meier Wings

A Half Century of Modern Architecture in the Courtyard

The painting I wished to see was Edward Hopper’s Automat. I love his art, and this was a seminal work in his career. The painting is often out on loan, so I was happy it was on exhibit. I must admit that I was surprised to learn that such an important painting was owned by a museum in Iowa.

Edward Hopper's Automat

Although many of the galleries were closed, I still found several works that really caught my eye, even though I’m not always a fan of modern art. The first was entitled Museum Storage: Please Do Not Remove the Labels. The wry humor shown here made the piece quite memorable, given Tim’s career and the types of volunteer work we have done at national parks.

Museum Storage: Please Do Not Remove the Labels

Two pieces were especially powerful and thought provoking, and both resonated with me. These pieces explore the uses and possibilities of the written word in visual art, a genre that was new to me. I learned that I Want a President has become an icon of art activism.

I Want a President and My Calling (Card)

I drove across Iowa and soon crossed the Missouri River into Nebraska on the Mormon Pioneer Memorial Bridge. Nearby in North Omaha, I visited the Mormon Trail Center, which is located on the site of the Winter Quarters, the temporary settlement used by Mormons during the winter of 1846-1847.

Mormon Pioneer Bridge

The Winter Quarters is a major site on the Mormon Pioneer National Historic Trail, and the center’s exhibits, reconstructed settings, and artifacts tell the story of the Mormon pioneers’ westward migration to the Salt Lake Valley. The interpretation was well done.

Mormon Trail Center

Next up was the headquarters for the Lewis and Clark National Historic Trail on Omaha’s riverfront. Since I had visited several trail sites on this trip, I wanted to stop here. I checked out the exhibits and found another one in the bathroom – “Think while you’re stalling. . .” Because the park ranger was not the talkative sort, and since I tend to spend a considerable amount of time talking with rangers, I found myself ahead of schedule when I left.

Lewis and Clark National Historic Trail Headquarters

I realized then that I could probably make it to Lincoln, Nebraska, to tour that state capitol before it closed. Since I had originally planned to visit there tomorrow, and since the capitol did not open until 1:00 pm on Sunday, this was a very good thing.

Of the three capitols on this trip, I was most looking forward to visiting Nebraska’s State Capitol. This building, designed by Bertram Grosvenor Goodhue and completed in 1932, departed from tradition by incorporating a high-rise office tower in the design, thus becoming the nation’s first modern statehouse. The capitol was the first designed in the Art Deco style and is also unique in its use of artwork throughout. When Goodhue developed his vision, artwork was a key feature.

Tower on the Plains, Nebraska's State Capitol

I learned my lesson from my visit to the Iowa State Capitol and planned to take a tour. Unfortunately, I was ten minutes too late. The public spaces were open, however, and as I wandered around, I found myself gawking at what I saw.

A vestibule on the north side of the building leads into the foyer, and then into the central rotunda, one space more magnificent than the next. The art and iconography throughout tell the story of Nebraska and her people and the state’s relationship to the ideals of Western civilization.

A Grand Rotunda

Jaw-Dropping Spaces

Colorful, tile vaulted ceilings, exquisite mosaic and inlaid marble floors, and Venetian glass wall murals were spectacular, and one feature seemed to be more stunning than the next. Large murals, including those in the foyer and Memorial Hall on the fourteenth floor, were added between the 1950s and 1990s and continue the artistic tradition.

Large Murals from the 1950s and 1960s in the Foyer

Murals from the 1990s in the Memorial Hall

Because it was the end of the day, I was able to take the time to look more closely at the architectural details on the exterior of the building. Every element related to the theme, and there was a lot to see.

Amazing Sculptural Details on the Exterior

Both the Ohio and Nebraska State Capitols were magnificent buildings, very different in style, but equally grand. I’m not sure I could pick a favorite.

I finally checked into the Hyatt Place in Lincoln’s Haymarket Entertainment District and relaxed in another very lovely room. I cancelled my hotel reservation for tomorrow night and booked another hotel much closer to Loveland. This way, I’ll get home by early afternoon on Monday.

From a Capitol to the Ohio River

I found out this morning when I read my email that we will be sailing around Africa on our upcoming World Voyage, as expected, instead of through the Red Sea and Suez Canal. I spent some time looking at the changes, and I am thrilled with this new itinerary.

In addition to visiting national parks, I have planned to tour three state capitol buildings on this trip. It wasn’t until 2019 that I discovered The Capitol Collection, a passport book for the 50 state capitols. Naturally, I started collecting those stamps as well. I had always been interested in these grand structures, but the passport program has made visiting them more fun.

Therefore, I drove into downtown Indianapolis this morning to tour the Indiana Statehouse. It had been a while since I had driven in a large city, but traffic was surprisingly easy to deal with. I even found a parking spot and figured out where and how to feed the new-style meters.

Indiana Statehouse

The architecture of the Indiana Statehouse, like many state capitols, was influenced by the design of the United States Capitol and is Classical Revival in style. For me, the most striking feature of the interior was the stained-glass dome in the rotunda. Because I was running behind schedule, I spent very little time in the building and did not do it justice.

The Interior of the Indiana Statehouse

My next stop in downtown Indianapolis was the Eiteljorg Museum, a museum that focuses on Native American and Western art. I love Western art, and this museum had been on my radar for quite some time. The exhibits were outstanding, both the temporary exhibits and permanent galleries.

I started at the upper level and viewed two temporary exhibits. “Why We Serve: Native Americans in the United States Armed Forces” honored the generations of Native people who have served in the U.S. military throughout the nation’s history. “Developing Stories: Native Photographers in the Field” featured images by three contemporary Native photographers. Both were interesting.

Scenes from Two Temporary Exhibits

I was drawn, however, to the Native American Galleries. “Expressions of Life: Native Art in North America” focused on three themes – Relation, Continuation, and Innovation. This gallery was especially interesting to me since it included both historic and contemporary art, with which I was less familiar.

Expressions of Life: Native Art in North America

Moving to the lower level, I entered the Art of the American West Galley and “Attitudes: The West in American Art.” Some of my favorite artists were represented here, and I was pleased to see a few of their pieces in person. I was also able to discover new artists whose focus was various aspects of the West.

Attitudes: The West in American Art

The interpretive panels in both galleries were especially well done. The information presented explained the various themes and suggested a new way of looking at the pieces on exhibit, thereby helping me appreciate both how art has evolved and how it represents many different cultural values, attitudes, and points of view.

It had started to rain before I arrived at the museum, and the rain only increased after I got back on the road. As much as I dislike driving interstates, it’s even worse in the rain and fog. Luckily, the rain lessened a bit after a while, and the visibility improved as I made my way south.

I always try to stop halfway through the drive, especially if the stop involves a passport stamp. Today’s stop was Falls of the Ohio River State Park. I either misheard my GPS or it gave me odd directions, but it took me across the Ohio River into downtown Louisville, Kentucky, and then back again over the same bridge to reach the state park. Strange, but the bridge was very cool, so I was glad for the detour. I even decided to do a bit of research on the bridge.

The 2nd Avenue Bridge and Its Art seco Style Pylons

Originally called the Louisville Municipal Bridge, now the 2nd Street Bridge, this structure was completed in 1929. I was intrigued by the beautiful Art Deco style pylons at the entrance to both sides. The pylons are Art Deco in style, with engaged, fluted columns topped by sculptured eagles. The Kentucky pylons bear Kentucky state symbols and the incised words "Kentucky.” The Indiana pylons have a similar design. An Art Deco lantern tops each pylon. Just beautiful!

After recrossing the bridge, I finally found the interpretive center for the Falls of the Ohio State Park. This site is a point of interest on the Lewis and Clark National Historic Trail since William Clark set out from here with Meriwether Lewis to explore the territory of the Louisiana Purchase. The helpful woman at the information desk explained that the center’s exhibits focus on fossils and geology, with none on Lewis and Clark. So, this time, I skipped the exhibits and did a “stamp and run.”

Falls of the Ohio State Park on the Lewis and Clark National Historic Trail

When I left, I crossed the Ohio River again into Kentucky, this time on the interstate. Unfortunately, I failed to get in the correct lane and ended up on the wrong highway. Naturally, Google maps rerouted me, and I only lost a small amount of time. I drove through Kentucky bourbon country, so the revised itinerary turned out to be just fine.

I finally arrived in Somerset, Kentucky, and checked into a Holiday Inn Express on the edge of town.

Augusta and Mount Desert Island

We thanked Steve and hit the road this morning for Augusta. Augusta? Why Augusta? In addition to visiting as many National Park Service units as possible, I’m also trying to visit state capitol buildings. Noreen and Mike seem to be fine with wherever I want to go, so we stopped at the Maine State House for a quick visit.

The original State House was designed by renowned architect Charles Bulfinch in 1832, and it is based on his plans for the Massachusetts State House. The building acquired its present form when it was extensively redesigned and expanded in 1910. We toured the capitol on our own before getting back on the road.

Maine State House

We arrived in DownEast Maine in the afternoon and made a stop at the Island Information Center for brochures and maps before crossing the bridge to Mount Desert Island, where Acadia National Park is located. For those who may not know, DownEast refers to the state’s easternmost regions. 

We drove to Bar Harbor and checked into the Elmhurst Inn, located in a quiet residential neighborhood within walking distance of downtown. The inn is a lovely Victorian era building, and our suite is perfect for the three of us. We enjoyed afternoon lemonade and cookies and took a break before venturing downtown for dinner.

I completely forgot to take photographs of the inn, so I’m borrowing ones from the inn’s website.

Elmhurst Inn - Breakfast Room, Inn, Carriage House, and Our Suite
(Photos Courtesy of the Elmhurst Inn) 

Texas State Capitol

I’ve been visiting quite a few state capitols lately, and I didn’t want to miss the Texas capitol while we were here. I had already made a few trips to Austin for service for the Subaru and for a few errands, but there never seemed to be time for playing tourist. Finally, I set aside a Sunday and made the drive.

I was surprised to find that the building was designed by Elijah E. Meyers, the same architect who designed Colorado’s capitol. Constructed from 1882 to 1888, it is the sixth tallest state capitol building.

As always, I enjoyed gazing upwards at the interior of the dome. I was also interested in the terrazzo floor that features the six seals of the countries whose flags have flown over Texas.

Texas State Capitol

Inside the Dome

The Six Seals of the Countries Whose Flags Have Flown over Texas

On the Road to Santa Fe

Tim and I managed to get the house ready to go, we packed the RV, and we were ready to head south.

We planned to break up our drive to Albuquerque with an overnight in Trinidad, Colorado. The drive was mostly uneventful, although it was quite windy. When we arrived at La Quinta, the front desk staff gave us the keys to two rooms. I had only booked one room. We all joked that I had decided to put Tim in his own room, but I relented and let him share mine. We had a lot of fun with that.

I had always wanted to visit Santa Fe at Christmas, and I had always wanted to stay at La Fonda, one of the original Harvey Houses established by the Fred Harvey Company in 1922. On this visit, I was able to check both wishes off my list.

The weather was beautiful when we arrived in Santa Fe. We first went to the New Mexico State Capitol since I am trying to visit as many capitols as possible. New Mexico’s was beautiful and totally different from any other. It is the only round state capitol in the United States and was designed to resemble the Zia sun symbol when viewed from above.

New Mexico State Capitol

New Mexico State Capitol

We asked if we could park the RV in the visitor lot overnight to avoid paying the $50 fee at the lot near the hotel. The staff members were so helpful and graciously said that would be just fine.

We checked into La Fonda, and I enjoyed exploring the historic hotel. We ventured out to walk around the plaza area and admired the Christmas decorations. A New Mexico tradition is to line the adobe walls of the century-old buildings with thousands of farolitos. What a beautiful sight!

La Fonda

Who Is that Masked Man? - Tim and the La Fonda Gingerbread House

Palace of the Governors

Saint Francis Cathedral

We had dinner at the Plaza Café overlooking the plaza and enjoyed the colorful lights as it got dark. Santa Fe at Christmas was as lovely and magical as I had expected.

Santa Fe Plaza

Santa Fe Plaza

On our way out of town, we stopped to see the Santa Fe Railyard and then visited with the conservator who will be guiding the project at LYDO. Jeanne just happens to live in Santa Fe and invited us to see her while we were in town. We had a great visit, and I know we will enjoy working with her.

Santa Fe Railyard

New Mexico Rail Runners at the Santa Fe Railyard