Day 169 – Seyðisfjörður, Iceland

I was still asleep when Viking Sky docked in Seyðisfjörður this morning. Located in East Iceland, Seyðisfjörður is a picturesque town located at the end of its namesake fjord and nestled between large mountains. The area traces its origins to the early days of Viking settlements, but it was Norwegian fishermen who founded the town in 1848.

First View of Seyðisfjörður 

It was still cold and cloudy today, but much better than two days ago, so I dressed in many layers and set out for my optional excursion, “Skálanes Nature & Heritage Center.” This was the description:

Bask in remote natural beauty as you journey through grasslands and mountains to the town of Skálanes. Embark on a scenic drive to Thorarinsstadir, and enjoy the beautiful countryside views along the way. Stop at an abandoned farm and explore the important excavation site that revealed an early settlement graveyard and church. Continue on to the Skálanes Nature and Heritage Center—a unique, private nature reserve situated in a beautifully restored Icelandic farmstead. The towering coastal cliffs are home to more than 40 different species of birds, and the five-square-mile facility showcases the incredible biodiversity of the region. The center promotes sustainable tourism, and its vision is to become a leading center of Icelandic culture and environmental development. Be sure to keep your eyes peeled for the whales and seals that can sometimes be spotted here.

The Icelandic landscape is stunning, even on a cloudy day, and that’s exactly what I wanted to experience today. We could see the fresh snow on the mountains as we headed out of town on a one lane dirt road that followed the fjord. The views of the fjord and surrounding mountains were beautiful.

Beautiful Views Over the Fjord

More Stunning Views Along the Way

We stopped for a short while at Þórarinsstaðir, the site of an early Christian post church. The site was excavated in 1998–1999 and revealed, for the first time in Iceland, an eleventh century church building constructed of timber, an extremely scarce resource in Iceland. The church would have been highly visible to ships sailing into Seyðisförður. The excavation here was part of a project entitled “The Transition from Paganism to Christianity in Iceland.”

Þórarinsstaðir Archeological Site

As we continued onward, we began to see fields covered with lupines, and it was a glorious sight. I love lupines, and we learned that they had been planted everywhere to help prevent soil erosion. Today, however, they are known to be an invasive species that is crowding out the native Arctic plants.

Fields of Lupines Were Spectacular

Our primary destination was Skálanes Nature and Heritage Center, located in a restored Icelandic farmhouse in a private nature reserve and field center at the mouth of Seyðisfjörður. The center hosts university students from all over the world and is a perfect setting for conducting research and learning about the natural and cultural environment of Iceland. It was an adventure to get there, as we had to ford three streams. Our driver earned a round of applause.

Fording Streams on Our Way to Skálanes Nature and Heritage Center

Near the field center, we saw a large colony of wild, nesting eiders that return here every year to lay their eggs and raise their chicks. The eiders shed their down naturally in the spring, and it is later collected for eider duvets. Eider farming and down collection is a traditional activity that dates to the last ice age.

Eider Colonies

We were then introduced to the Arctic terns as we began our walk. Arctic terns, which fly from their Arctic breeding grounds to the Antarctic and back again each year, are very aggressive and protective of their nests. They began to attack us, crying loudly and diving continually at our heads. It was quite a sight, but we escaped unscathed.

Fighting Off the Arctic Terns

It was a beautiful walk to a cliff that is home to thousands of seabirds. We were surrounded by lupines and views of the fjord and mountains along the way.

I Continued to be Mesmerized by the Lupines

It was freezing at the platform overlooking the cliff, however, so I tried to take a few quick photos of the kittiwakes and puffins, before making a hasty retreat down the path to the bus.

I Barely Managed to Get a Few Photos of the Kittiwakes and Puffins on the Cliffs

It was amusing to watch the battles between the Arctic terns and guests as they returned a while later. The terns even drew blood from one man who was not wearing a hat. Luckily, it was a minor injury.

Attack of the Arctic Terns

As we retraced our route back to Seyðisfjörður, we saw several Icelandic sheep and lambs grazing on the hillsides. Icelandic sheep and horses are the primary farm animals in Iceland. I also focused on the many waterfalls along the way. Iceland is known for its waterfalls, although the ones we saw today were quite small.

Icelandic Sheep and a Few Lambs

Waterfalls Are Everywhere

Our ship was docked right in town, so I decided to do a quick walk around the pretty town before getting back on board. One of Seyðisfjörður’s most iconic features is the Rainbow Street, which leads to the lovely Blue Church.

The Blue Church and Rainbow Street

The town also features many well-preserved, colorful wooden buildings. In the late nineteenth and early twentieth centuries, Norwegian merchants and whalers settled in Seyðisfjörður, bringing with them their unique architectural style. Many of the town's wooden buildings were either imported from Norway as ready-made houses in kit form, or were designed and built based on Norwegian architectural traditions. Corrugated iron, which was the typical roofing material, was often used to clad walls to protect the timber.

A Few of Seyðisfjörður's Historic Buildings

I’m glad I made the effort today to get out and explore a beautiful part of Iceland. The cold, wind, and cloudy skies are starting to get to me, however. I think I could more easily deal with the first two if it were sunny.