From One Capitol to Another

Unlike yesterday, today was a multi-stop day. The distance I traveled wasn’t that far, but I was busy from early morning until late afternoon.

One of the main reasons for my stop in Des Moines, Iowa, was to visit the state capitol. I had seen its prominent, golden dome from the interstate on my way into town yesterday, and I was looking forward to my visit. Getting there was a bit of a challenge this morning, however, since many of the roads surrounding the building were closed for a Superhero Heart Run.

The Iowa State Capitol is a magnificent building. Completed in 1886, it is a wonderful example of Renaissance Revival style architecture and one of the most beautiful capitol buildings I’ve visited. I had decided to wander through the building using a self-guided brochure, not wanting to take the time for a one-hour tour.

Iowa State Capitol

I was immediately struck by the capitol’s centerpiece, its rotunda and inner dome. At the base of the dome are eight lunette paintings that represent the progress of civilization. The Grand Staircase that leads to the second floor was even more impressive. It is dominated by a massive mural entitled Westward, which symbolizes the arrival of pioneers in Iowa. On the third floor above the mural are six mosaics in arched panels depicting Defense, Charity, Executive, Legislative, Judiciary, and Education. The mosaics, made in Venice from small pieces of colored glass, were even more amazing when I was able to see them up close.

The Inner Dome Was Beautiful

Grand Spaces

Impressive Artwork

Because I didn’t take a tour, I was unable to visit the chambers of the Senate and House of Representatives or any other rooms. A guide I was speaking with as I was leaving wanted to take me to the Law Library, said to be one of the most beautiful libraries in the country. Although regulations would not permit this kind gesture, I appreciated it all the same. After looking at photos of the library later that evening, I regretted not having taken the tour.

My next stop was the Des Moines Art Center, which I had planned to visit for its architectural history and one specific painting. The museum was built in three stages, each by one of the most prominent architects of the twentieth century. The original building was designed by Eliel Saarinen in 1948, and additions by I. M. Pei in 1968 and Richard Meier in 1985 completed the complex. When I stood in the courtyard, I was able to take in half a century of American architecture.

Des Moines Art Center - From top to bottom, Saarinen, Pei, and Meier Wings

A Half Century of Modern Architecture in the Courtyard

The painting I wished to see was Edward Hopper’s Automat. I love his art, and this was a seminal work in his career. The painting is often out on loan, so I was happy it was on exhibit. I must admit that I was surprised to learn that such an important painting was owned by a museum in Iowa.

Edward Hopper's Automat

Although many of the galleries were closed, I still found several works that really caught my eye, even though I’m not always a fan of modern art. The first was entitled Museum Storage: Please Do Not Remove the Labels. The wry humor shown here made the piece quite memorable, given Tim’s career and the types of volunteer work we have done at national parks.

Museum Storage: Please Do Not Remove the Labels

Two pieces were especially powerful and thought provoking, and both resonated with me. These pieces explore the uses and possibilities of the written word in visual art, a genre that was new to me. I learned that I Want a President has become an icon of art activism.

I Want a President and My Calling (Card)

I drove across Iowa and soon crossed the Missouri River into Nebraska on the Mormon Pioneer Memorial Bridge. Nearby in North Omaha, I visited the Mormon Trail Center, which is located on the site of the Winter Quarters, the temporary settlement used by Mormons during the winter of 1846-1847.

Mormon Pioneer Bridge

The Winter Quarters is a major site on the Mormon Pioneer National Historic Trail, and the center’s exhibits, reconstructed settings, and artifacts tell the story of the Mormon pioneers’ westward migration to the Salt Lake Valley. The interpretation was well done.

Mormon Trail Center

Next up was the headquarters for the Lewis and Clark National Historic Trail on Omaha’s riverfront. Since I had visited several trail sites on this trip, I wanted to stop here. I checked out the exhibits and found another one in the bathroom – “Think while you’re stalling. . .” Because the park ranger was not the talkative sort, and since I tend to spend a considerable amount of time talking with rangers, I found myself ahead of schedule when I left.

Lewis and Clark National Historic Trail Headquarters

I realized then that I could probably make it to Lincoln, Nebraska, to tour that state capitol before it closed. Since I had originally planned to visit there tomorrow, and since the capitol did not open until 1:00 pm on Sunday, this was a very good thing.

Of the three capitols on this trip, I was most looking forward to visiting Nebraska’s State Capitol. This building, designed by Bertram Grosvenor Goodhue and completed in 1932, departed from tradition by incorporating a high-rise office tower in the design, thus becoming the nation’s first modern statehouse. The capitol was the first designed in the Art Deco style and is also unique in its use of artwork throughout. When Goodhue developed his vision, artwork was a key feature.

Tower on the Plains, Nebraska's State Capitol

I learned my lesson from my visit to the Iowa State Capitol and planned to take a tour. Unfortunately, I was ten minutes too late. The public spaces were open, however, and as I wandered around, I found myself gawking at what I saw.

A vestibule on the north side of the building leads into the foyer, and then into the central rotunda, one space more magnificent than the next. The art and iconography throughout tell the story of Nebraska and her people and the state’s relationship to the ideals of Western civilization.

A Grand Rotunda

Jaw-Dropping Spaces

Colorful, tile vaulted ceilings, exquisite mosaic and inlaid marble floors, and Venetian glass wall murals were spectacular, and one feature seemed to be more stunning than the next. Large murals, including those in the foyer and Memorial Hall on the fourteenth floor, were added between the 1950s and 1990s and continue the artistic tradition.

Large Murals from the 1950s and 1960s in the Foyer

Murals from the 1990s in the Memorial Hall

Because it was the end of the day, I was able to take the time to look more closely at the architectural details on the exterior of the building. Every element related to the theme, and there was a lot to see.

Amazing Sculptural Details on the Exterior

Both the Ohio and Nebraska State Capitols were magnificent buildings, very different in style, but equally grand. I’m not sure I could pick a favorite.

I finally checked into the Hyatt Place in Lincoln’s Haymarket Entertainment District and relaxed in another very lovely room. I cancelled my hotel reservation for tomorrow night and booked another hotel much closer to Loveland. This way, I’ll get home by early afternoon on Monday.