Saturday, May 11, 2024

From Architecture to Effigy Mounds

I joined an architectural walking tour of Mason City this morning and discovered a fascinating collection of Prairie School style houses. Who knew that Mason City, Iowa, has such amazing architecture? I was not surprised, however, to learn that the restoration of these houses and the Historic Park Inn Hotel has become a real draw for tourists. People, like me, who are fans of Frank Lloyd Wright have made it a point to visit Mason City, stay in the hotel, and tour the neighborhoods. It has really spurred the revitalization of this community.

Frank Lloyd Wright designed two properties in Mason City, although he had plans for many more. After Wright left for Europe in 1910, other Prairie School architects carried these plans forward. Such well-known architects as Marion Mahony Griffin, Walter Burley Griffin, Barry Byrne, William Drummond, and local architect Einar Broaten created Rock Crest-Rock Glen, a beautiful neighborhood located along both sides of Willow Creek. This was the first planned Prairie School development in the United States.

We walked by most of these houses on a gorgeous Spring day. Our guide was excellent and even provided many historic photos of the houses we saw. One of the tour participants was an architect, and his comments added an additional perspective. 

Some of the Prairie School Style Houses in the Rock Crest-Rock Glen Neighborhood

After the tour, I stopped at the Robert E. McCoy Architectural Interpretive Center, which provides a comprehensive look at Frank Lloyd Wright and the houses in Mason City.

The Architectural Models of Houses by Frank Lloyd Wright Were So Cool

The Historic Park Inn Hotel Was Prominently Featured

From there, I toured the Stockman House, the other building in town designed by Frank Lloyd Wright in 1908. The docent was very enthusiastic and extremely knowledgeable about the architecture of the house.

The Stockman House - Frank Lloyd Wright Did Not Approve of the Owner's Furnishings

I wanted to get on the road to make it to Effigy Mounds National Monument in time to hike the trails. Therefore, I decided to use the car’s GPS instead of the phone’s, and this time it directed me on all the backroads, when I had originally thought I’d take a state road. You just can’t win sometimes. I love to drive the backroads, however, so I did enjoy the drive. Everything is so green, and I love driving through farm country.

On the way to Effigy Mounds, I drove through the Silos and Smokestacks National Heritage Area. National Heritage Areas are places where historic, cultural, and natural resources combine to form cohesive, nationally important landscapes. NHAs are administered by the National Park Service but are not National Park units. Silos and Smokestacks NHA “illustrates the cultural history of American agriculture and the shift to large-scale industrialized development of American farms to feed the nation and the world.”

Silos & Smokestacks National Heritage Area - I Saw Silos, But No Smokestacks

I had wanted to visit at least one passport stamp location in the Silos and Smokestacks NHA, and the Vesterheim Museum in Decorah, Iowa, was on the way to Effigy Mounds. The focus of this museum is the Norwegian-American experience, and the exhibits were very interesting. I even got to talk briefly with three women who were visiting and whose heritage was Norwegian. I love Norway, so this was a great stop. I learned that when Viking sails the Mississippi River and stops in La Crosse, Wisconsin, this museum is a major destination for tours.

Vesterheim Museum - Home Life in 19th Century Norway

Vesterheim Museum - The Immigrant Journey from Norway to America

Vesterheim Museum - A New Home in America

I finally reached Effigy Mounds National Monument by mid-afternoon. This site preserves more than 200 prehistoric mounds that are considered sacred by Native Americans, and 31 of the mounds are in the form of animal effigies. Located along one of the most picturesque sections of the Upper Mississippi River Valley, the park also offers expansive views of the river below.

Exhibits at Effigy Mounds National Monument Interpret the Story of the Mounds

I had a wonderful talk with the ranger on duty, and she pointed out the trails that I could take. I headed out with plenty of time to explore the park. I knew the Fire Point Trail involved a very steep climb, but it was harder than I expected. I am so out of shape! Thank goodness I brought my walking stick with me, since I’m not sure I would have made it without it.

After reaching the top of the bluff, I passed by the Little Bear Mound Group and the Great Bear Mound Group, as well as multiple conical, linear, and compound mounds. I learned that these mounds were created between 850 and 1,400 years ago.

The Great Bear Mound Group

The park is fascinating, but I found it difficult to distinguish the effigy mounds while standing on the ground, and I struggled to make out the shapes. I admit that I wanted to be a drone, looking at them from above.

Two overlooks on the trail, Fire Point and Eagle Rock, offered beautiful views of the Mississippi River. They also provided welcome rest stops.

The Mississippi River from Fire Point

The Mississippi River from Eagle Rock

I especially enjoyed spotting the wildflowers along the trail. In Mason City, I saw lilacs, iris, and others, and while the flowers at Effigy Mounds were more subtle, they were just as lovely.

Wildflowers at Effigy Mounds National Monument

There are very few places to stay near Effigy Mounds, but I found an interesting option – Trickling Waters Retreat. This option is like an Airbnb, and I have half of a house. The owner was mowing the grass when I arrived and was so pleasant to talk to. I had picked up food on the way, and I ate my dinner on the back deck. It was so relaxing and peaceful. The place is certainly not my style, but it was perfect for tonight and just what I needed. I loved that it was so low key and spacious, with a place to sit out back and enjoy the beautiful flowers.

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