From the Niobrara River to the Missouri

Today was a river day, even though I was never actually on a river. I just observed the rivers from their banks or from the bluffs high above. Does that still count as a visit? I’m saying that it does.

I arrived at the Visitor Center for Niobrara National Scenic River just as the doors opened at 8:30 am. The Niobrara National Scenic River is a 76-mile, free-flowing waterway where people come in the summer to float downstream by canoe, tube, or kayak. The Niobrara River itself originates in Wyoming and flows for 535 miles before it empties into the Missouri River.

Niobrara National Scenic River (map courtesy of NPS)

After watching the film and learning more about the river and the six major ecosystems that converge here, I made my way to Fort Niobrara National Wildlife Refuge, where I hiked the Fort Falls Trail. The namesake of the trail is the 45-foot-tall Fort Falls waterfall, reached by a steep metal walkway and stairs that lead to the canyon floor. The waterfall was flowing rapidly due to the recent rains. The trail then continued to the shore of the Niobrara River, where I enjoyed scenic views, as well as wildflowers that were just starting to bloom.

Fort Falls on the Fort Falls Trail

Scenic Views along the Fort Falls Trail

I was on the lookout for bison, which are residents of the Refuge, but did not see any. My only wildlife sightings were a young deer and several greater prairie-chickens. No photos, though. At first glance, I thought the prairie-chickens were roadrunners, but that didn’t make any sense. Thank goodness for a wayside exhibit at one of the overlooks that set me straight on their identity.

Back in the car, I continued eastward, making several short detours from the highway to the river itself. Because I lost an hour yesterday, I reluctantly skipped Smith Falls State Park, the location of the highest waterfall in Nebraska. Instead, I made a quick trip to the smaller Berry Falls, which is located next to Berry Bridge, another charming, wooden-decked, historic bridge across the Niobrara River.

Berry Falls and Berry Bridge along the Niobrara River

The drive across Nebraska on the two-lane highway was quite pleasant, and I noticed the fields getting greener the farther east I drove. By the time I reached Niobrara State Park, I couldn’t get over how green everything was.

My main purpose in stopping at the state park was to view the confluence of the Niobrara and Missouri Rivers on Nebraska’s northeastern border. A very kind ranger, who was on her way to lunch, opened the Visitor Center for me and suggested where to go for the best views of the meeting of the two rivers.

The Niobrara River Meets the Missouri River

Niobrara State Park is also a point of interest on the Lewis and Clark National Historic Trail, a route across the United States commemorating the Lewis and Clark Expedition of 1804 to 1806. Wayside exhibits throughout the park tell the story of the expedition and its passage through this location. The park was a worthwhile stop, and possibly worth its $14 entry fee.

Niobrara State Park on the Lewis and Clark Trail

I continued east before crossing the Missouri River into South Dakota at Yankton. This would be the first of many crossings of major rivers in the Midwest on this trip. The headquarters for the Missouri National Recreational River is in Yankton, and I watched the film to learn more about this great American riverway. Two stretches of the river along the Nebraska-South Dakota border are the single remnants of this historic river, following the construction of a series of dams, and they comprise this National Park Unit.

Yankton's signature landmark is the Meridian Bridge, the first permanent river crossing in the vicinity. Today, the bridge has been preserved as a pedestrian walkway. I wandered down to the riverfront park to get a closer look at yet one more historic bridge on today’s drive.

Missouri Recreational River and the Historic Meridian Bridge in Yankton

The rangers at headquarters suggested that I visit Mulberry Bend, and the overlook provided a spectacular view of the river. I was surprised to discover the number of sandbars in the river and learn how the river is forever changing the landscape.

Mulberry Bend on the Missouri River

My final stop on this long day was Spirit Mound, a location regarded as a spiritual place by area tribes. It is also a location with a documented visit by the Lewis and Clark Expedition on August 24, 1804. It was too late for me to hike the trail to the top of the conical hill, but it was still a special stop to end my day’s journey.

Spirit Mound

I only had a short drive to Sioux Falls, South Dakota, where I checked into the Hyatt Place Sioux Falls. Although I’ve stayed at various Hyatt Hotels in Europe, this was my first in the US. It won’t be my last, as I loved the design and the rooms.