From a Battlefield to a Creative City

I learned an interesting lesson today. It is often the smallest events and actions that end up having a lasting and significant impact on the future. Have you ever heard of the Battle of Mill Springs? I certainly had not, but that would change on my visit to Mill Springs Battlefield National Monument this morning.

Mill Springs Battlefield National Monument is the site of the first decisive Union victory during the Civil War. This outcome boosted morale and assured Kentucky’s place in the union. It’s hard to believe that a battle that no one has heard of had such a lasting effect on the outcome of the Civil War.

I’m not a huge fan of battlefield parks, but I thoroughly enjoyed my visit to this one. The film was excellent and clearly explained the battle and its significance. The park ranger at the desk was so enlightening, and I could have spent all morning talking with her.

Exhibits at the Visitor Center

This Is Only the Second Park I've Visited that Includes Exhibits in the Bathrooms

I followed the driving tour of the battlefield but did not take time to hike the trails. I had visited the last two stops in the morning since they were on the other side of the Cumberland River and closer to my hotel. These two houses served as headquarters for several generals during the Battle of Mill Springs, but they are not yet owned by the National Park Service. The adjacent grist mill has been restored.

The Driving Tour Includes Ten Stops

The Brown-Lanier House (#9) and West-Metcalf House (#10) Are South of the Cumberland River

This Restored Grist Mill Was Built Around 1877

An interesting footnote to this story is that in 1902, a ten-year old girl began decorating the tree under which Confederate General Felix Zollicoffer was placed after his death. Each Memorial Day, she placed a handmade wreath around what became known as the Zollie Tree. Her simple commemoration inspired others in the community and eventually resulted in the preservation of the Mill Springs Battlefield. Once again, small, and seemingly insignificant, actions can lead to something much larger and more impactful.

The Zollie Tree - The Original Tree Was Felled in 1995 during a Storm

The preservation and interpretation of the Battle of Mill Springs is due to the dedication of a mostly volunteer association that saved the battlefield, built a visitor center, created a film and exhibits, and developed the driving tour. The result was a ready-made park for the National Park Service to take over in 2019.

While at the park, I also learned about a connection between the county in which Mill Springs Battlefield is located and a National Park unit that I will be visiting later this week. Free Frank McWorter, the man who founded the town of New Philadelphia, had been previously enslaved in Pulaski County before he purchased his freedom. I love making connections.

I left Mill Springs around noon and made my way westward. Despite the rain that fell on and off today, I enjoyed the drive through Kentucky, mostly on four-lane divided highways with little traffic.

At the end of the day, I stopped in Paducah, Kentucky, and visited the Convention and Visitors Bureau (CVB), which had a passport stamp for the Lewis and Clark National Historic Trail. Although the stamp was initially my reason for stopping there, I read that Paducah had been designated as a UNESCO Creative City. I was unfamiliar with such a designation and learned that a Creative City is one that has identified creativity as a strategic factor for sustainable urban development.

I never would have guessed that a small city like Paducah could receive such an honor. Only nine cities in the Unites States have been so designated, among them Santa Fe, Austin, San Antonio, and Tucson. Paducah was recognized as a City of Crafts and Folk Art, partly because of its longstanding tradition of quilt making.

I had a lengthy conversation with the director of the CVB, who explained that the city’s creative efforts have expanded to include murals as well as other artistic endeavors. Our conversation led me to walk around the downtown area, where I admired the many rehabilitated buildings. There were people on the street, and people were eating and drinking at the several outdoor cafes.

The Preservation of Downtown Paducah Has Led to Its Revitalization

I’m not usually a big fan of murals, but I really admired the ones painted on the floodwall overlooking the confluence of the Ohio and Tennessee Rivers. This Wall to Wall Project depicts pivotal moments from Paducah’s long history and is arranged chronologically. Bronze interpretive panels in front of each mural describe what is represented in each painting. The murals have been a major draw, and tourism has steadily increased as a result.

The Wall to Wall Mural Project

Behind the Floodwall Is the Confluence of the Ohio and Tennessee Rivers

My hotel for the evening was not too far away, but I had to cross into Illinois on a very cool bridge over the Ohio River to get there. I later learned that this bridge, known as the Brookport Bridge and built in 1929, contains what may be one of the longest simple truss spans ever built. It is indeed a very long bridge, and extremely narrow, and has often been called the scariest and most dangerous bridge over the Ohio River. Driving across was a nerve-racking experience, especially since I was trying to take photos as I drove!

I Made It Across the Bridge

I made it safely across, and as I drove to the Holiday Inn Express in Metropolis, Illinois, I noticed how high the river is. Flooding is occurring, and trees along the banks are partially submerged.