Saturday, May 20, 2023

Napoleon’s Château de Malmaison

The Emperor’s Final Residence Before His Exile:

Visit the historic château where Napoleon Bonaparte spent his final days in France. Along with the Tuileries, this elegant manor house, purchased by the emperor’s wife, Josephine, in 1799, served as the seat of Napoleon’s French government from 1800 to 1802. After the couple’s divorce, she collected an annual pension of 5 million francs and kept the house, which she called home until her death in 1814. The emperor returned the following year after his defeat at Waterloo and received news of his exile to the island of Saint Helena. Admire the courtyards and see Josephine’s beloved music room and library. Visit her opulent chambers and salon, and view the emperor’s bedroom and the stunning mahogany decor of his study with its original furnishings. Enjoy free time here before returning to your ship.

We woke up this morning in Le Pecq, located in the western suburbs of Paris. Prior to 2022, this was where Viking docked in Paris. I’m grateful that the new longships built specifically for the Seine River allow us to dock near the Eiffel Tower instead.

Le Pecq, however, was closer to our destination this morning, and we set out to visit Château de Malmaison. Malmaison was the private residence of Napoleon Bonaparte and his wife Josephine, and this was their "country" residence, located less than an hour from Paris. Josephine lived here until her death in 1814. Just like many of the historic sites in France, this one was also under restoration.

Château de Malmaison Today, and a Watercolor by Victor-Jean Nicolle on View at Malmaison

When we arrived, ours was the only tour group in the house, which enabled us to explore the rooms without the crowds we had become accustomed to. As it turned out, we spent too much time in the house for my taste, as our guide spoke at length about so many of the furnishings. I was itching to get outside to the gardens!

Rooms on the Ground Floor

Napoleon's Rooms

Josephine's Rooms

When we were finally let loose, Tim and I first went to visit the black swans that were so dear to Josephine. Finally, we were able to wander through the garden that has been recreated adjacent to the chateau. It was lovely with beautiful spring flowers.

Château de Malmaison was originally known for its incredible rose garden, which was Josephine’s passion. Although this garden was destroyed in the late-nineteenth century, it appears that there is a plan to reconstruct the center part of the garden with the different species of roses collected by Josephine.

The Black Swans

The Garden

Colorful Blooms

When we returned to the ship, our Maitre D’ once again greeted us with a special treat, this time a tray of virgin Bloody Marys.

Where's the Vodka?

Many of the passengers left after lunch for an optional excursion to the Palace of Versailles. I had previously visited Versailles, and Tim had decided against the tour, so we stayed on the ship as we sailed from Le Pecq to Paris. I can’t imagine how crowded it would have been and was glad that I skipped the excursion.

In the afternoon, I decided to try Viking’s version of “French Teatime.” Although the sandwiches were very good, the chef needs a new recipe for scones! I still enjoyed the tea as I watched our progress toward central Paris.

French Teatime

I also tried to thank the many staff members who made this cruise so memorable. For some odd reason, I did not connect personally with the staff on Fjorgyn as I had on Buri. One exception, however, was Anthi in Guest Services. She was such a delight, and she went out of her way to help me and make suggestions for what Tim and I might want to do in Paris. I would often speak to her after dinner, and I always thanked her and let her know how much we were enjoying the cruise. She said that I didn’t need to say anything – she could see it written all over my face.

Our Hotel Manager Daniel and Maitre D’ Alexe were rather reserved compared to their counterparts on the Buri, but they always paid attention to even the smallest detail. I will always remember Eveline, the Executive Housekeeper, and how she made it a point to personally apologize for the laundry mix-up. She always had a smile on her face whenever I saw her. Our stateroom steward Mike and restaurant server George also took very good care of us.

Thanks to All!

Tim and I found it very interesting that so many of the staff on both ships were from Romania or Bulgaria, as opposed to the staff on Viking Ocean ships, who were often from the Southeast Asia and the South Pacific. I love meeting people from different countries, and it was interesting to learn about their backgrounds.

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