Friday, May 12, 2023

Panoramic Lyon

Part Parisian, Part Old-World France:

See the magnificent highlights of this gastronomic and cultural center. You will begin with a drive to the Basilica of Notre Dame, at the top of Fourvière Hill. After exploring the interior of this spectacular church, enjoy sweeping views of the red roofs of Vieux Lyon (Old Lyon) and the narrow peninsula of land between the rivers comprising the atmospheric Presqu’île shopping district. Next, drive through town past the flamboyant Gothic St. Jean Cathedral and the Palace of Justice, stopping at the city’s famed Painted Houses, a breathtaking collection of outdoor murals depicting some 30 of the city’s famous figures. Then, continue with a walking tour along the cobblestone streets of Vieux Lyon, where the city’s famous traboules, unique hidden passageways made for busy merchants in medieval days, wend through buildings and courtyards. Later, you can shop for souvenirs, perhaps purchasing some of the fine silk for which Lyon is world famous. 

When Viking Buri arrived in Lyon early this morning, we joined five other ships docked along the Rhône River. Just outside our ship was a walking/cycling path that was quite popular, and we had to dodge this traffic when going ashore. Whenever we are docked, the Viking crew is always busy. Today, as I left the ship, I saw two crew members in a small boat washing the windows on the lower deck.

Viking Buri Docked in Lyon

This morning, Tim and I boarded our motorcoach for a panoramic tour of Lyon, the third largest city in France. Lyon sits at the junction of the Rhône and Saône Rivers with a small peninsula in the middle of the city in between. We began our tour with a drive up to the Fourvière hill that crowns the city. We passed the ruins of a Roman amphitheater dating back to 15 BC, and then arrived at the Basilica of Notre Dame de Fourvière. Here, we enjoyed panoramic views of the city below.

Sarah and Tim and Expansive Views of Lyon

Built in the late nineteenth century to honor the Virgin Mary and demonstrate the city’s wealth, the basilica is visible from almost anywhere in Lyon and has become the symbol of the city. Inside, we admired the ornate architectural details and the stunning mosaics, all in gleaming blue, turquoise, and gold. The most famous mosaic depicts scenes from the life of Joan of Arc.

Basilica of Notre Dame de Fourvière - Visible from Everywhere

The Ornate Interior with a Mosaic of Joan of Arc

After leaving the hilltop, we crossed the Saône River and drove through the Presqu'ile district, the heart of Lyon that occupies the area between the two rivers. We had great views across the river, including ones of the Basilica and la Tour Metallique, Lyon’s answer to the Eiffel Tower, at the top of the hill we were just on.

Beautiful Views along the River

Our next stop was Vieux Lyon, the old town, and our walking tour here was my favorite part of the excursion. Our guide started out by leading us through the Traboules du Vieux Lyon, a network of traditional passageways and tiny paths once used by silk workers to haul their wares from the city to the river. During World War II, the French Resistance used the traboules to evade the Nazis. Runners would slip into the clandestine passageways to avoid capture and could use the alleys’ double doors to share important messages without suspicion. Traboules are common in old Lyon, but many are inconspicuous or closed to the public. Discovering them was fascinating.

Exploring the Traboules du Vieux Lyon

During our free time, Tim and I wandered through the quaint, cobblestoned maze of streets lined with flower stores, souvenir shops, and inviting cafés. It was fun to look up to discover interesting architectural feature. I even did a bit of shopping and purchased a few summer scarves.

Wandering the Streets of Vieux Lyon

On our way back to the ship, we were able to get better views of some of the historic buildings we had seen close-up. One was the Palais de Justice Historique de Lyon, where the infamous Nazi “Butcher of Lyon” Klaus Barbie was tried and sentenced to life in prison for crimes against humanity. We could also see the Cathédrale Saint-Jean Baptiste de Lyon, the seat of the Archbishop of Lyon, and the Hôtel-Dieu de Lyon, the city’s oldest hospital and now the InterContinental Hotel.

Palais de Justice Historique de Lyon, Cathédrale Saint-Jean Baptiste, and Hôtel-Dieu de Lyon 

It was fitting that Viking sponsored an enrichment lecture in the afternoon entitled Lyon and the Resistance. The guest lecturer presented an enlightening talk about Lyon’s role in the French Resistance, a collection of organizations that fought the Nazi occupation of France and the Vichy regime during World War II. Resistance networks made Lyon their base, and the city became known as the "Capital of the Resistance."

As a lover of historical fiction, I have read many books set during World War II. Those that focused on the French Resistance told stories that were particularly harrowing, and it has been especially meaningful to me to visit Lyon and some of the places that figured in those novels. I only wish I could have visited the Resistance and Deportation History Center, a museum that is symbolically housed in the former headquarters of the Gestapo.

Since I knew tomorrow, our last day, would be busy, I tried to spend some time talking with members of the Viking Buri staff and thanking them again for making the cruise so memorable. Just like on our ocean voyage, the crew had been exceptional, and one of my favorite aspects of the cruise has been interacting with them. Of course, I have certain favorite people, especially Razvan, the Hotel Manager, and George, the Maitre D’. Those two have been so much fun, yet professional at the same time.

Drago, head of Guest Services has been very kind and helpful to me, especially with any problems I encountered in trying to close on my Miami condo. Sjaak, the Program Director, was always upbeat and made sure that the shore excursions I selected would be the most “friendly” to my knee.

Blenika, our stateroom steward, always looked after us and accommodated our sometimes-odd schedules. Finally, there was Stanko, our favorite server in the Restaurant. Although he shyly admitted that he may not have been the best at what he did, we always loved how he kept us entertained and took great care of us.

Thanks Everyone!

Although Viking provided some type of entertainment every evening, Tim and I always elected to return to our room instead. Tonight, however, there was a disembarkation briefing, so I was in the Lounge when the entertainment began. Razvan, our Hotel Manager, had earlier promised to sing a few songs, and tonight was the night. Imagine a man from Romania, with quite an accent, singing country music songs! He was amazing, and everyone loved him. I’m a fan of country music, and I was impressed!

A New Romanian Country Music Star?

On the way back to the room, I stepped outside and enjoyed a glorious view of Lyon at night. The buildings and bridges were illuminated, and their reflections in the river were lovely.

Lyon at Night - Reflections on the River

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