Friday, May 5, 2023

Marvelous Mougins, A Hidden Gem

Tim and I are learning that many of the most charming towns in the South of France are hilltop villages, and this afternoon we explored one of them. Mougins is one of the lesser-known villages (Rick Steves didn’t even include it in his Provence and the French Riviera guidebook), yet it was frequented and inhabited by many artists and celebrities, including Pablo Picasso who spent the last twelve years of his life here.

We arrived in Mougins in time for our lunch reservation at L’Amandier de Mougins. Although the ambience was nice, and the waiters were friendly and personable, we found our meals to be only so-so. Another disappointment from an acclaimed restaurant in a town with a strong culinary history. Here, at least, the delicious dessert partly made up for main course.

L’Amandier de Mougins - Does Tim's Expression Explain Anything?

I have been surprised that the servers at every restaurant we’ve visited voluntarily speak English to us. I also had not expected to see an English translation on the menus at these exclusive restaurants. In the past, I had found those types of menus only at tourist traps. This has been a huge help to us, and I’ve tried to remember to thank the staff for this accommodation.

Mougins is a picturesque village with expansive views in all directions. Cécile gave us a walking tour through its maze of narrow streets lined with galleries and shops. Sculptures have been placed on many of the town squares, continuing the artistic heritage of the town. One interesting stop was the nineteenth century Lavoir, or Washhouse, that was used until 1970. Today, it has been restored and hosts temporary art exhibitions. The lack of hordes of tourists made our walk even more pleasant.

The Atmospheric Streets of Mougins

The Many Sculptures of Mougins

The Lavoir or Washhouse

Our special treat for the afternoon was a visit to the Museé d’Art Classique de Mougins (MACM). Here, we enjoyed a private tour of one of the most interesting museums we would visit on our trip. Philip, our travel specialist, had recommended this stop, and Tim and I are so glad we took his suggestion.

MACM is an exceptional museum with a unique concept – a juxtaposition of ancient, modern, and contemporary art that explores how the beauty of the ancient world has influenced more recent artists. The museum’s large and diverse collection of antiquities, including Roman, Greek, and Egyptian sculpture, vases, coins, and jewelry is interspersed with classically inspired artwork, from such artists as Picasso, Matisse, Chagall, Rodin, and Warhol. This seemingly eclectic mix blends together perfectly, and Tim and I were quite impressed with the result.

The Egyptian Gallery

Ancient and Contemporary Art in the Egyptian Gallery

The Greek and Roman Gallery

Ancient and Contemporary Art in the Greek and Roman Galleries

Other Examples of the Juxtaposition Between Old and New

Although we had a reservation for dinner, we decided to cancel it. For one thing, the restaurant was not within walking distance of our hotel, and we didn’t want to figure out how to get there and back. Mostly, however, we were tired and not very hungry, so we were quite happy to just relax in our room with a few snacks.

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