Extravagance vs. Simplicity on the Côte d'Azur

After leaving Nice, our itinerary called for a tour of the hilltop village of Eze and then lunch. Because we were running late, Cécile suggested that we eat first. 

The views along the Moyenne Corniche, one of the world’s most famous scenic roads, were spectacular as we made our way toward Eze. Sadly, I was unable to capture a single photograph. As we raced along, hugging the cliffs on one side, with views of the Mediterranean Sea on the other, I felt like we were on an amusement park ride. Driving anywhere in France is crazy! Thank goodness we never planned to rent a car here!  

Cécile parked the van and led us up the hill to Les Remparts La Chèvre d’Or. We passed through the imposing gates and made our way to the terrace restaurant. The views overlooking the Mediterranean, Saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrat, and the Bay of Angels were jaw-dropping. Surprisingly, the views turned out to be the best part of our experience there. Although beautifully presented, our meals were only fair to good, and ridiculously expensive. For such a famous restaurant, Tim and I had expected the food to be exceptional. We had such great expectations for this restaurant, and had been willing to pay the price, but we left disappointed.

In hindsight, I could only think back to the many simple, local foods we saw at the market and shops in Nice and wish we had eaten there. It would have been more rewarding to sample what local residents eat, not what extravagant tourists are served in posh restaurants.

Tim and Sarah at the Gates to La Chèvre d'Or

The Walk to the Les Remparts Was Lovely

The Best Part of Our Lunch Was the View

I had been so looking forward to visiting Eze, one of the most charming hilltop villages in France. After talking with Cécile, however, I admitted to myself that I would not be able to handle the steep climb with my knee issues. What a disappointment! Not to worry, we were going to visit a garden next. 

Our destination was Villa Ephrussi de Rothschild, located in Saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrat. On the way, Cécile was able to stop at a viewpoint, where we enjoyed an expansive vista over the harbor of Villefranche-sur-Mer. The colors of the water were exquisite. At the entrance to the harbor, we noticed a cruise ship. Although we didn’t know it at the time, it turns out that our ship will dock in the same location on December 2, 2023, on our Mediterranean Explorer and Crossing cruise. Viking notified us a week after our visit here that we will be docking in Villefranche-sur-Mer instead of Monte Carlo. It will be fun to come back.

Cécile, Our Guide, and Tim, and a Spectacular View Over the Harbor of Villefranche-sur-Mer

That Will Be Our Cruise Ship in December

Because Tim and I love to visit gardens, Villa Ephrussi de Rothschild was on our “must-see” list. Perhaps the most extravagant mansion on the Côte d'Azur, this magnificent palace is surrounded by nine themed gardens: Sèvres Garden, Spanish Garden, Florentine Garden, Stone Garden, Japanese Garden, Exotic Garden, Rose Garden, Provençal Garden, and French Garden. 

I enjoyed wandering through all the gardens, and admiring the views to the sea, but I especially enjoyed seeing so many spring flowers in bloom. Tim and I had left Colorado just as the flowering trees were starting to blossom, but spring had not yet arrived. Here in the gardens, we could enjoy tulips and azaleas, as well as rhododendron, roses, and camellias. I could even identify many of the flowers for Cécile. Most fun, however, was showing her how to “snap” a snapdragon, bringing back a fond childhood memory.

The Many Gardens of Villa Ephrussi de Rothchild

Beautiful Viewpoints Are Located Throughout the Gardens

The Flowers of Villa Ephrussi de Rothchild

Snapdragons Are a Favorite of Mine

The highlight for me was the formal French Garden, which extends from the Temple of Love to the villa. What a grand design! As we walked toward the house, we were surprised when musical fountains sprang from the large pond like a grand aquatic ballet.

The French Garden, Looking Towards the Villa

The Dancing Water Fountains Were a Delight

The villa itself is a unique landmark built between 1907 and 1912 and filled with an eclectic collection of art and cultural treasures. By the time we finished our tour of the first floor, however, I was exhausted and so was Tim. I think Cécile was surprised when we asked her to take us back to the hotel. Thank goodness we hadn’t tried to visit Eze. I think we planned too much for our first day after a long flight. The older we get, the longer it takes to recover from jet lag.  After returning to our hotel, Tim and I took a well-deserved nap.

I Was Too Tired to Really Appreciate the Interior of the Villa

Tim and I roused ourselves in time to walk a few blocks to Fleur de Sel, a tiny restaurant with a down-to-earth server, who may have been a part owner. Trying to view the menu via a QR code proved to be a comedy of errors. Of course, our internet didn’t work, nor did the restaurant’s Wi-Fi. Realizing our situation, a group of young people at a neighboring table offered us their phones! And people say the French are not friendly! Ha! Instead, we simply asked for their recommendations – the plat du jour. It was fabulous! 

Dinner at Fleur de Sel was delightful. We enjoyed the simplicity, the food, and the people. The entire evening was such a contrast from our experience at lunch, and we reminded ourselves that simplicity often trumps extravagance.

A Perfect Dinner at Fleur de Sel