Thursday, May 18, 2023

Normandy Beaches

Commemorate the D-Day Landings of June 1944:

Ponder the courage of the Allied troops who changed the course of World War II during a visit to the D-Day Beaches. Travel with your guide to the Caen Memorial Museum, where you will learn about the invasion of Normandy and the events that led to the liberation of Europe. On-screen, watch “D-Day and the Battle of Normandy” featuring archived footage. Browse the museum exhibits and souvenir shop. After lunch, follow the coast to the Normandy American Cemetery and Memorial in Colleville-sur-Mer. Located high on a cliff over Omaha Beach, it is the final resting place of nearly 9,400 American service personnel. You can walk among its many white crosses and Stars of David, then browse the visitor center. After your tour, return to your ship.

Today was a very long day, with an early start at 7:45 am and a late return at 6:45 pm, but that seems to be the norm if one wants to visit the Normandy beaches on a river cruise. Viking offered a choice of two tours today – the Commonwealth tour or the US tour. Although I had been tempted to take the Commonwealth tour because of the stop to see the Bayeux Tapestry, I felt that I should visit Omaha Beach and the American Cemetery. I think that was the right choice for my first time in Normandy.

After a long bus ride, we stopped at the Caen Memorial Museum, a museum and war memorial that commemorates World War II and the Battle for Caen. The museum traces the history of the twentieth century and focuses on the fragility of peace. Exhibits present a sobering story that begins with the First World War, examines the causes of the Second, follows the course of the conflict and the D-Day landings, and ends with the Cold War. English translations were very welcome.

Caen Memorial Museum

The museum was excellent, but very crowded, since today was a holiday in France. Viewing the exhibits was therefore quite difficult, and Tim and I were unable to finish seeing everything. Ironically, we didn’t even make it as far as the story of D-Day. It’s definitely a museum that deserves a good amount of time.

Surveillance, Espionage, and Resistance

The World at War

Extermination

The Human Toll

Our visit to the Normandy American Cemetery and Memorial was very moving, particularly the memorial service organized by Viking. I spent a lot of time just wandering through the cemetery and even found a few crosses from Colorado.

I also learned why the lettering on some of the markers is darker than others. When families visit the cemetery, they are accompanied to the grave and given sand to rub into the engraving to highlight the individual’s name. Over time the sand is blown or washed away.

Normandy American Cemetery and Memorial 

Tim and the Memorial Service

Map of the D-Day Landings in the Loggia on the Colonnade at the Cemetery

Our final stop was Omaha Beach, one of five beach landing sectors designated for the amphibious assault component of D-Day. Here, wave after wave of troops from the US 1st and 29th Infantry Divisions were cut down. However, the few who managed to scale the beach’s steep slopes breached the German defenses by midday.

We passed the shimmering Les Braves monument and the 5th Engineer Special Brigade memorial and then stopped near the National Guard monument. This monument was built on top of an original German bunker that still houses an 88 mm cannon. Other bunkers are visible in the cliffs above the beach.

Omaha Beach

Memorials and Monuments

National Guard Monument atop German Bunker

German Bunker on the Cliff Above Omaha Beach

My father was in the Navy during World War II, so I have no direct connection to D-Day, unlike several of the people in our group. That made no difference to me, however. The visit was still a poignant one. At least one of Tim’s relatives did serve in Europe, and Tim walked on the beach to collect a small vial of sand to bring home.

On our way back to the ship, our guide told a remarkable story about her grandparents’ experience during the war. Their house in Normandy was requisitioned by German soldiers, who lived with them for four years. One of the Germans happened to be a French-loving soldier, and he warned them to hide during the Allied invasion. When the grandparents returned home after the fighting ended, they found their house in perfect order, with the floors swept and dishes washed. Other families, however, weren’t so lucky.

After a very long and emotional day, it was nice to sit down and relax over a very good dinner. Tim and I sat with a fun group of women, including two sisters from Australia, and thoroughly enjoyed the evening.

Starter - Normandy Salad, Main Course - Cuisse de Canard Confit à l'Orange, Dessert - Apple Tarte Tatin

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