Day 103 – Gqeberha (Port Elizabeth), South Africa

We are continuing our journey around South Africa, and Gqeberha was our destination for today. Gqeberha, which was founded in 1820 by the British, was previously called Port Elizabeth. The city was renamed in 2021 after the Xhosa and Southern Khoe name for the Baakens River that flows through the city. For most tourists, Gqeberha is known as a gateway to view wildlife, and Tim and I had booked an all-day optional excursion to the Amakhala Private Game Reserve to witness the “Big Five.”

We had anticipated arriving at 7:30 am this morning, but we were nowhere near the dock at our scheduled arrival time. Captain Frederick soon let us know that heavy winds were preventing us from sailing into the port, but he remained optimistic that we would eventually be able to dock. Of course, this did not bode well for all the long safari excursions, but all we could do was wait and see what would happen.

Waiting to Dock in Gqeberha 

By the time we finally docked almost two hours later, the Shore Excursion team had rearranged today’s many excursions. However, we were advised that the game drives would be cut short, and we could cancel our excursions without penalty if we wished. That’s exactly what Tim and I decided to do.

Because Tim had not yet seen elephants or lions, I encouraged him to try and stand by for a shorter excursion to the Addo Elephant Park. I lost track of him and was delighted to find out later that he had been able to get a spot on that tour.

Since I had already seen four of the Big Five, I was satisfied and decided instead to stand by for the included excursion, “Snapshots of Gqeberha.” I had not been able to visit any of the previous cities in South Africa and felt this would be a perfect opportunity for me to see one of these cities today. Even when it was announced that the Shore Excursion team had miraculously managed to reinstate the original length of the safaris, I stuck with my plan to see Gqeberha. This was the description of my excursion:

Discover the coastal hub in the Eastern Cape known as the “Friendly City.” Now part of the Nelson Mandela Bay metropolitan municipality, Gqeberha was originally founded to house British settlers, as a way of strengthening the border region between the Cape Colony and the Xhosa. Your scenic city drive will take you past the Campanile—one of the most striking buildings in Gqeberha. The tower dates back to 1920 and was built to commemorate the 1820 arrival of the British settlers who came to help populate the Eastern Cape. Stop for photos at City Hall and Fort Frederick, which were strategically built on a natural vantage point overlooking Algoa Bay in order to protect the Cape Colony from the French during the Napoleonic wars. After a photo stop at Nelson Mandela Bay Stadium, enjoy a panoramic drive back to your ship.

Our drive did begin by taking us past the Campanile, and we then turned along the coast, stopping at Hobie Beach to take photos. We followed the coastal drive before turning inland to visit the vast campus of Nelson Mandela University. Its slogan is “Change the World,” and the university stands for Anti-Gender-Based Violence, Anti-Racism, Anti-Violence, and Show Respect. I saw signs posted throughout the campus to remind students of these standards.

The Campanile and Hobie Beach

Nelson Mandela University

What the University Stands For

After driving into the downtown area, we exited the motorcoach and began our walking tour. We passed many of the city’s historic buildings as we made our way towards Market Square, the most significant urban space in the city. The square is surrounded by such landmarks as City Hall and the Public Library.

Old Post Office Building, Former South African Reserve Bank, Former Colonial Mutual Life Building,
Old Post Office, and Newspaper House

Feather Market Centre, Where Ostrich Feathers Used to Be Sold

Prester John Memorial and Diaz Cross

Market Square - Former Colonial Mutual Life Building, City Hall, Office Building, 
Former South African Reserve Bank, and Market Square Marker

City Hall is a monumental building and a testament of British colonial power. It dates from the 1860s, a period when the economic development of Port Elizabeth gained momentum.

Today, City Hall was the site of a peaceful protest against gender-based violence, sparked by the recent case of a seven-year-old girl who was raped at her school. I learned later that this case has come to represent a violation of the safety, dignity, and rights of all women and children in South Africa, and this protest, which was just one of many, was intended to make a statement that inaction and delays in addressing these crimes will no longer be tolerated.

City Hall

My favorite stop was the magnificent Public Library, built in 1902 and considered to be a superb example of Victorian Gothic architecture. At the entrance is a marble statue of Queen Victoria, which was added in 1903. We were able to visit the interior, a magnificent space with a stained-glass dome, stained-glass windows, and three levels lined with bookshelves.

Public Library

Public Library Interior

After boarding our motorcoach, we drove to the Donkin Reserve, a public open space overlooking the harbor that contains a stone pyramid and an 1860s lighthouse. We were more interested, however, in the beautiful Piazza Mosaic that celebrates the multicultural heritage, diverse histories, and abundant fauna and flora of the city, and the Voting Line sculpture, a symbol of the 1994 election. This description tells that awe-inspiring story:

Walking around the beautifully made Voting Line sculpture at the Donkin Reserve in Port Elizabeth, you get the true sense of the Rainbow Nation of South Africa. The metal figures represent all the communities who share the land – and who voted peacefully on 27 April 1994.

On this momentous occasion – while the world held its collective breath – all former differences were cast aside as South Africans lined up in many genial rows to vote. And the man who became our first democratic president was none other than Nelson Mandela.

Piazza Mosaic, Voting Line Sculpture, Pyramid, and Lighthouse at Donkin Reserve

We passed by several buildings that caught my eye before arriving at Fort Frederick. This stone fort was built in 1799 by the British to defend the mouth of the Baakens River against any invasion by French troops during the Napoleonic Wars. The French never invaded, and the cannons, which remain today, were never fired, including the one that was aimed directly at Viking Sky.

Interesting Architecture

Fort Frederick

As we continued our drive through the city, I was impressed with the many historic buildings that I saw. The variety of styles reflect the long period of colonialism in the city. During our tour, a guest asked our excellent guide if the colonial buildings would now be torn down. Our guide replied that these buildings are a part of the city’s heritage, no matter how difficult that history had been.

Colonial Era Buildings Near Fort Frederick

A Few More Colonial Era Buildings

Today, however, a new story is being written – that of the heritage of the indigenous people of Southern Africa, the recent history of the struggle with Apartheid, and the emergence of the Black majority as leaders of the country and its cities.

On the way back to the ship, we drove past the poignant Horse Memorial, which commemorates the horses that served and died during the Second Boer War. Hundreds of thousands of horses were transported to Port Elizabeth between 1899 and 1902, and many died enroute or while being offloaded on the docks. Still more died in combat.

Our final stop was the Nelson Mandela Bay Stadium. Prior to 1910, the city of Port Elizabeth did not have a large-scale soccer facility, since soccer received very little funding under the Apartheid government. When Port Elizabeth was chosen as a host city for the 2010 FIFA World Cup, the city decided to build a new, multipurpose stadium.

Nelson Mandela Bay Stadium and Horse Memorial

This was another eye-opening excursion, and I’m happy that it was the one that I ended up taking.