Day 131 – Porto, Portugal

Viking Sky docked in Leixões, Portugal, this morning, the closest port to Porto, the country’s second-largest city. Porto is located on the Douro River and is known for its authentic vibe, its historic architecture, and its cellars of port wine that is still produced in the Douro Valley.

Docking in Leixões, Portugal

This was our first visit to Porto, so Tim and I selected the included excursion, “Porto by Foot,” with this description:

Get to know the city built on port, the fortified wine for which it is named. Straddling the Douro River, Porto is a vital center of education, religion, trade and industry. You will meet your guide at your ship, then head into the heart of the “City of Granite.” Thanks to the frequent use of this stone in the architectural landscape, the city has a grand appearance. In the Cordoaria district, you will view the masterful exterior of the Clérigos Tower, or Clergyman’s Tower. Once Portugal’s tallest structure, it was designed by Italian architect Nicolau Nasoni. Continue past the city’s Romanesque cathedral, built in the 12th century, and stop to admire its facade. En route back to your ship, pass through Aliados Avenue and gaze up at the beautiful buildings that line the street.

Before boarding the motorcoach, I was chatting with our guide and happened to mention my interest in architecture. He let me know that he had been an architect and would love to explain more about the architecture of Porto during our excursion. Perfect!

Our route followed the coast, past beaches; Castelo do Queijo; the "Tragedy of the Sea" monument, a sculpture in homage to a 1947 shipwreck; a waterfront promenade; the Pérgola da Foz; and the mouth of the Douro River, all of which are pictured below.

A Scenic Drive Along the Atlantic Ocean to the Mouth of the Douro River

We then drove along the lovely Douro River, where we saw several interesting features on the river’s opposite bank – the old wine cellars and two of Viking’s Longships that sail the Douro River. I would love to take this river cruise at some point.

Scenes Along the Douro River - Two Viking Longships (lower left) and Wine Cellars (lower right)

Porto is known for its hills, and our bus climbed one of the very steep streets to take us to the historic center of the city. Here, we began a short walk where our guide pointed out the many significant buildings before giving us free time to explore the area on our own.

Tim and I passed the Clérigos Tower, one of Porto’s most iconic architectural landmarks and the tallest structure in the historic center of Porto. The tower was commissioned in the eighteenth century by a group of priests who wanted to build a grand monument that would serve as a symbol of their religious devotion.

We walked past the Old Porto Prison, the University of Porto, and the newer Palace of Justice, where a statue of Justice stands in front of a bas-relief panel that caught my eye. The panel illustrates the evolution of justice, from Divine Law to Roman Law.

Clérigos Tower and Old Porto Prison (top row, left to right), Palace of Justice, Bas-Relief Panel,
and University of Porto (lower row, left to right)

We walked through the beautiful Jardim da Cordoaria, named after the rope makers who used to work here, and learned that the unusual trees are London plane trees, which have been officially classified as being of Public Interest. We also saw several sculptures, including The Thirteen Laughing at Each Other, four separate pieces that depict thirteen laughing men.

The Thirteen Laughing at Each Other (top left), Ponds and Flowers,
and Avenue of London Plane Trees (lower right)

We returned to the bus and began our descent to the waterfront, where we began our next walking tour. Our bus stopped next to another lovely garden with a statue of Prince Henry the Navigator in the center. The red Ferreira Borges Market at the top of the garden caught my eye. We walked past the Church of Saint Francis, the most prominent Gothic monument in Porto, and then turned down a narrow street where we saw one of the oldest houses in the city.

Ferreira Borges Market, Statue of Prince Henry the Navigator, Old Customs House,
Vintage Tram, and Church of Saint Francis

Walking the Streets of Porto, with One of the City's Oldest Houses in the Center Photo

The street led to the bustling waterfront, filled with restaurants, bars, and tourists. We had a perfect view of the iconic Dom Luís I Bridge, a double-deck, metal arch bridge that spans the Douro River. The bridge was built in 1877 by a partner of Gustav Eiffel and is one of the most photographed landmarks in Porto.

Scenes Along the Porto Waterfront

At this point, our guide gave us an hour on our own, and I decided it was the best time to strike out on my own, since there were several buildings that I wanted to see. Tim stayed with the tour while I climbed up the steep hill to the São Bento Railway Station. Nearly every space in the grand hall of this Beaux-Arts style building is decorated with some of the finest azulejo tile paintings in Portugal. Azulejos are a type of Portuguese painted tin-glazed ceramic tilework, and the panels here depict scenes of Portuguese history and the daily activities of the Portuguese people. This building was a must-see for me, and it was worth climbing the hill to enjoy the spectacular tilework.

São Bento Railway Station

What a Magnificent Space!

The Panels at Either End Were Covered with Linen

Panes on Either Side of the Central Entrance to the Train Platform

Panels at the Ends of the Main Wall

From there, I walked to the Praça da Liberdade, or Liberdade Square, the most important square in Porto, which connects the historic center of the city with the modern section. The grand Câmara Municipal, or City Hall, is located at the head of the square, with a group of buildings from the early twentieth century flanking it on either side.

Looking North and South along the Praça da Liberdade - The Top Photo Shows the Câmara Municipal

Buildings Flanking the Praça da Liberdade

From the square, I made my way back past the Jardim da Cordoaria and the Praca de Gomes Teixeira with its Fonte dos Leões, or Fountain of the Lions. My destination was the Igreja dos Carmelitas and the Igreja do Carmo, which one might think is the largest church in Porto. In fact, they are two separate churches. An ancient law prevented two churches from sharing the same wall, so one of the world's narrowest houses was built between them. The side façade of Igreja do Carmo is covered by a stunning panel of azulejo tile paintings that depict scenes showing the foundation of the Carmelite Order and Mount Carmel.

Praca de Gomes Teixeira, the Fonte dos Leões, and an Adjacent, Beautiful Art Deco Building

Igreja dos Carmelitas (left side) and the Igreja do Carmo (right side) In the Top Two Photos;
Tilework at Igreja do Carmo (lower two photos)

From there, I caught the shuttle back to the ship and walked through the Leixões Cruise Terminal, a landmark of contemporary Portuguese architecture. Designed by Luís Pedro Silva and inaugurated in 2015, the terminal is known for its sculptural spiral form, which is clad in over a million white ceramic tiles that glisten in the sun.

Leixões Cruise Terminal

It was a long day with lots of walking up and down steep hills, but it was worth it. I really enjoyed Porto and would love to return for a river cruise and more time to explore the city.