Day 126 – Marrakesh, Morocco

After not getting to bed until 2:00 am this morning, the alarm was not a welcome sound. Tim and I had breakfast in the hotel and then got ready for our day in Marrakesh.

Savoy le Grande Hotel

This was the description of today’s plan:

Day 2 - Marrakesh, Morocco

This morning, begin your guided, full-day exploration of Marrakesh. Visit the 12th-century Menara Gardens, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and view the facade of the Koutoubia Mosque, the largest in the city. After lunch, receive negotiating tips from your guide before setting off to investigate the famous souks. Cap you day with a walk through the bustling medina, including a visit to the Ben Youssef Medersa, a historic 14th-century Islamic school. This evening, enjoy Marrakesh at your leisure.

We began by driving to the Menara Gardens, a historic public garden developed in the twelfth century. We walked down the central path lined with olive groves to the large reflecting pool, where we tried to glimpse the Atlas Mountains in the background. Here, we stopped to take photos of the historic pavilion and its reflection in the pool. If the mountains had been visible, we could have captured one of the iconic views of Marrakesh.

Menara Gardens and Its Olive Groves

Current and Historic Views of Menara Gardens Pool and Pavilion

After walking back to the bus, we drove past the City Walls. which were built in the twelfth century. The walls were designed to protect and enclose the historic medina, which is the name of the old city of Marrakesh. We then stopped at the Koutoubia Mosque, one of the most important landmarks in Marrakesh and the symbol of the city. Here, we learned more about the city of Marrakesh and its history.

Marrakesh was founded in 1070 and was a major political, economic, and cultural center of the western Muslim world, including North Africa and Andalusia. Over the next two centuries, the city expanded from its original plan as the population increased. Our guide explained that Marrakesh looks very different from other cities in Morocco, and that mosque architecture is also very different from the design of mosques in other Middle Eastern countries. Mosques in Marrakesh are much more like the architecture of Andalusia.

Koutoubia Mosque

The Koutoubia Mosque, built in the twelfth century, reflects the architectural tradition of Marrakesh and is renowned for its decorative arches and intricate tile work. Known for its striking minaret that towers over the city, the mosque is not only an important place of worship, but also an excellent example of Islamic art and culture in Morocco. It reminded me of the Giralda Tower in Seville, Spain, and I learned later that the Koutoubia Mosque served as a model for the Giralda.

The Koutoubia Mosque was built by the Almohad dynasty, which ruled over Morocco and Spain from the twelfth to the thirteenth century. The mosque was originally constructed as a place of worship for Muslims and was later used as a mausoleum for the Almohad rulers.

We exited through the lovely Koutoubia Gardens, with its many fountains and views back toward the Koutoubia Mosque.

Koutoubia Gardens

Our next stop was the Bahia Palace, an outstanding example of the blending of Islamic and Moroccan architectural styles. Built in the late nineteenth century, the palace is a sprawling complex of gardens, courtyards, and rooms that are filled with intricate marquetry, beautiful tile work, and painted cedarwood ceilings. The palace housed the sultan, his wives, concubines, and numerous children from multiple marriages.

Our tour took us from one amazing room into another, and I was in awe of the stunning architectural details. The ornate mosaics, exquisite stucco work, and colorful tiles were gorgeous, but I was especially drawn to the richly decorated ceilings in almost every room.

Unfortunately, the palace was so crowded that it was difficult to really appreciate all the decoration. It was wall-to-wall people in many rooms, making photography difficult, but I did my best. Maybe that’s why I was so drawn to the ceilings – no people could get in the way!

The following photos are organized in the order in which we made our way through the maze of rooms in the palace. I’m not going to try and identify the names of the rooms, since I’m not really sure what’s what!

Tim and the Bahia Palace

I Loved the Ceilings

A Small Courtyard at Bahia Palace and Another Ceiling

More Exquisite Decoration

A Large Courtyard and Beautiful Tile Work

More Beautiful Rooms As We Returned to Where We Started the Tour

After leaving the palace, it was time for lunch at Dar Essalam, a beautiful restaurant with exquisite interiors. The room where we were seated featured tile work that was equal to what we saw at the Bahia Palace. Our traditional Moroccan meal was delicious.

Dar Essalam Restaurant

A Traditional Moroccan Meal

We were entertained by a band and belly dancers, which everyone seemed to enjoy. Our guide told us later that belly dancing is not a traditional Moroccan dance, but it‘s practiced here because it’s what tourists want to see. Although I also was entertained by the dancing, I would have much preferred something authentic to the country.

Entertainment at Lunch

Marrakesh is extremely crowded with pedestrians and motorcycles that share the very narrow lanes, and our guide always encouraged us to walk on the right side. Unfortunately, before lunch, there was an altercation between one of our guests and a motorcyclist, and our guide was forced to intervene. After lunch, the same guest got into an even more serious confrontation with a man who, according to him, accosted a female guest and accused her of trying to take his picture. The man pulled a knife, and once again, our guide had to intercede and diffuse the volatile situation. Our guide handled both situations extremely well, and we owe him our thanks.

Tim and I were so embarrassed by the behavior of this guest, and I found myself berating him shortly afterwards, which I probably should not have done. Whether he was right or wrong, he escalated both situations. Instead of just stepping back, ignoring the provocation, and moving on, he had to make his point. I found it interesting that no other guest had any problems with the locals today.

I was so bothered by what happened by the time we reached Djemaa el Fna, the historic square in Marrakech that is famous for its open-air market, that Tim and I accepted our guide’s offer of returning to the hotel instead of continuing with the tour. I know I shouldn’t let episodes like this affect me, since there’s not much I can do about them, but I can’t seem to help myself.

Djemaa el Fna

On the way back to the hotel, I was able to get a good look at the City Walls, which I had been unable to photograph earlier in the day.

Original City Walls and Gates

When we arrived back at the hotel, both Tim and I took much needed naps. For dinner, we sat outside by the hotel pool, had drinks, and ordered a pizza. It had cooled off considerably, and this was a perfect way to end the day.

Tim and Sarah at the End of the Day