Day 106 – Cape Town, South Africa

We did a “repositioning cruise” last night as Viking Sky moved from a commercial terminal to Cape Town’s cruise ship terminal. When I woke up this morning, I had a much better view of Table Mountain.

Table Mountain

Today was my day to enjoy Cape Town’s scenic beauty, and I set out on an optional excursion entitled “Chapman's Peak and Kaapse Weg Scenic Drive.” This was the description:

Discover the beauty of Cape Town’s coast and mountains on this scenic drive. Travel by motor coach, taking in impressive vistas along the Atlantic coast before stopping for photos at Maiden’s Cove. Nestled between two beaches, this lookout spot offers magnificent views of the Twelve Apostles, the mountain range that forms the backbone of the Cape Peninsula. Continue down the coastal road to Chapman’s Peak Drive. This thrilling stretch of road between Hout Bay and Noordhoek was completed in 1922 using prison labor. It hugs the side of the mountain as it winds along the steep coast, offering striking views of the crashing waves below. Pass the white sands of Noordhoek Beach, then turn inland to head over the mountains along Ou Kaapse Weg (Old Cape Road). Enjoy views of the southern peninsula, Cape Flats and False Bay before descending into Cape Town.

We soon left the city behind and followed the coast, stopping at the same spot where we stopped yesterday to view the Twelve Apostles and the rugged coastline.

The Twelve Apostles

Interesting Public Art Along the Drive

Chapman’s Peak Drive, the highlight of the day, was next. Located on South Africa's Atlantic Coast between Hout Bay and Noordhoek, Chapman’s Peak Drive has been recognized as one of the world’s most breathtaking coastal drives, with unparalleled scenic beauty and 114 thrilling curves along the way.

We began by driving into Hout Bay, one of the most active, and picturesque, fishing harbors in South Africa. Located on the northern side of Chapman's Peak Drive, it is surrounded by mountains and the Atlantic Ocean.

Hout Bay

We then circled the bay and began our climb. Constructed initially during World War I, this route climbs steeply up to Chapman's Peak and follows the rocky coastline, affording stunning views in both directions. We stopped at an overlook and had gorgeous views back towards Hout Bay.

Chapman's Peak Drive - Looking Back at Hout Bay

Chapman's Peak Drive Hugs the Cliff Above the Ocean

Spectacular Views

We then began our descent and soon reached Noordhoek at the southern end of the drive. Noordhoek, with its beautiful beach, is said to be the last remaining truly rural area and country village in the Cape Peninsula.

So Many Twists and Turns As We Descended the Mountain

The White Sands of Noordhoek Beach

To return to Cape Town, we turned inland onto Ou Kaapse Weg, another beautiful drive through a mountain pass that provides panoramic views of the surrounding landscapes. The Steenberg Mountains towered over us, and we saw a few of the wineries for which Cape Town is famous.

Views from Ou Kaapse Weg

Our guide today was much better than the one we had yesterday, although she couldn’t seem to keep her microphone close to her mouth, despite being reminded to do so a few times. As a result, I missed much of her commentary. I had expected much more from the guides in Cape Town.

Despite a good lunch on the ship, I had a craving in the afternoon for popcorn or potato chips. Neither was available, so I settled for French fries from the Pool Grill, along with an Absolut and tonic. I was trying to reconcile my mixed feelings about Cape Town with the rave reviews expressed by most people.

I therefore decided it might be a good idea to watch one of the lectures I had missed, Laura Lovelock’s talk on “Cape Town: History and Highlights.” She gave an excellent presentation on the turbulent history of the city, from the earliest Dutch settlement to the present day. She showed a slide of what I had read was a “must-see,” Bo-Kapp, a former racially segregated area and one of Cape Town’s most historically rich neighborhoods. I suddenly remembered that several people on two of my excursions had requested that we drive through there, but both guides had said it was not possible.

Cape Town: History and Highlights

It didn’t take me long to conclude that I had received a sanitized view of Cape Town. We saw the city’s beautiful new buildings and a few restored historic ones, but only the very wealthy or “charming” neighborhoods. I certainly enjoyed the picturesque natural wonders of the Cape, the breathtaking mountainous landscape, and the scenic drives. I just never discovered the diverse heritage that Cape Town claims to celebrate.

After dinner, while I was “making my rounds,” as I like to call it, to say hello to some of my favorite crew members, I ran into Hotel General Manager Marcel. We chatted for a bit, and he asked how my day had been. During the conversation, I just happened to mention my earlier craving for popcorn or potato chips before wishing him good night.

Imagine my surprise when I answered a knock on my door less than an hour later and saw a room service waiter bearing a tray with two bags of popcorn! A note from Marcel read, “I hope you will enjoy your popcorn.” I was flabbergasted, to say the least! This was just one more instance of how thoughtful the Viking officers and crew are and the lengths to which they go to please us.

A Popcorn Surprise!