Day 120 – Praia, Ilha de Santiago, Cape Verde

Since we were not scheduled to arrive in Cape Verde until noon, we had half a sea day this morning. Tim and I watched Dr. Dan Jones’ lecture on “The Atlantic Revolution,” where he talked about how the Atlantic Ocean was at the heart of revolution in England, America, and France. The Atlantic revolution, he concluded, created the modern world.

The Atlantic Revolution

After six and a half days at sea, we set foot on land this afternoon in Praia, the capital and largest city in Cape Verde, or Cabo Verde. Praia, the political, economic, and cultural center of Cape Verde, was founded by Portuguese explorers in 1615 as a port of call for ships sailing between Portugal and the colonies. As we learned yesterday, Cape Verde was uninhabited when the Portuguese arrived.

Praia is located on the island of Santiago, the largest of the ten islands in the Cape Verde archipelago. Today, more than half of all Cape Verdeans live on this island.

Sailing into Praia

Tim and I set out on today’s included excursion, “Panoramic Ilha de Santiago.” This was the description:

Discover the history of Ilha de Santiago during a scenic excursion to several notable landmarks around the island. Your journey will take you to Praia’s Old Town, the “Plateau,” where you will see the neoclassical Our Lady of Grace Church, as well as the Palace of the President and sweeping views of the city at the statue of Diogo Gomes. After a stroll among the colorful stalls at the vibrant Sucupira Market, travel to Cidade Velha, the first city built by Europeans in the tropics and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Tour the imposing São Filipe Royal Fortress, perched on a plateau and overlooking the city since the 16th century, then see the ruins of the impressive Sé Cathedral, the infamous Pelourinho and the main square down below. Enjoy an opportunity to browse the shops along the Rua Banana for handicrafts, before making the return trip to your ship via the Avenida Cidade de Lisboa.

We began our excursion with a drive up to the Plateau, the historic core of Praia. Located on a flat, elevated area overlooking the town and the bay, the Plateau is home to some of the city’s most iconic buildings. We walked down a pedestrian street that is typically filled with people. Today, however, it was mostly empty due to the Good Friday holiday.

A Pedestrian Street on the Plateau - The Sucupira Market (lower right) Was Closed Today

We soon arrived at Alexandre Albuquerque Square, the city’s main square, which is surrounded by administrative, military. and religious buildings, following the Portuguese nineteenth century urban planning model. The layout of the streets and avenues, the placement of the squares, and the architectural styles of the buildings here reflect the colonial era.

Alexandre Albuquerque Square

Located on the square is the Church of Our Lady of Grace, a lovely neoclassical style church completed in 1902, and we were able to visit the interior.

Church of Our Lady of Grace

We walked around the square and then by the Presidential Palace, which was constructed in 1894 as the residence of the Portuguese governor of Cape Verde. It became the presidential palace after Cape Verde gained independence in 1975.

Colonial Buildings Around and Near the Square

Presidential Palace - Front (top and lower right) and Rear (lower left)

After circling the exterior wall of the palace, we passed the statue of Diogo Gomes, the Portuguese navigator who claimed to have discovered the island of Santiago in 1460. Next up was the Quartel Jaime Mota, a former military barracks whose central tower is reminiscent of the Belem Tower in Lisbon.

Statue of Diogo Gomes, Military Barracks, and Street Scenes

The Plateau was always a strategic military location, and we saw remains of the fortified walls as we walked back to the motorcoach. The views from the wall were beautiful.

Fortified Walls, Views from the Plateau, and Cats

As we left the city center and began the drive to our next stop, we learned more about Praia, the island of Santiago, and Cape Verde. Praia has been an important port since 1515, when the caravel "Santa Catarina" arrived and unloaded 132 slaves. From then on, the city played a leading role in the slave trade, thanks to its geographic location.

Most Cape Verdeans are of mixed ethnicity, primarily a blend of European and African. Although Portuguese is the official language of Cape Verde, virtually everyone speaks Creole. Cape Verdean Creole is a unique creole language that blends European and African influences. Our guide told us that the language was developed to confuse the Portuguese.

Life in Cape Verde is not easy. The country faces a significant scarcity of water due to its arid location, climate change, and the impacts of tourism and urban growth. Agriculture is extremely limited, therefore, and up to 90 percent of all food is imported. Clouds of dust routinely blow from the Saharan Desert and over Cape Verde, a phenomenon known as “Sahara Dust.” That was the cause of the haze in the air today.

Although some of the main roads on the island have been resurfaced, we experienced the basalt stone pavement that is more typical as we drove to the São Filipe Royal Fortress. Built in 1587, high above the ocean, it was the first and most important fortification on the Cape Verde archipelago.

São Filipe Royal Fortress

The fortress overlooks the town of Cidade Velha, which is located at the mouth of a deep and steep valley, which we could see from the fort.

The View Towards the Sea and Cidade Velha

The View of the Steep Valley from the Fort

Cidade Velha was the first European colonial town to be built in the tropics. The town, which retains much of its original town plan and many of its original buildings, was designated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2009.

We stopped first at the ruins of the Sé Cathedral, overlooking the town. Construction of the cathedral, which began around 1556, was suspended in 1592 and remained at a standstill for approximately 130 years. The cathedral was finally completed around 1700, but in 1712, it was attacked, looted, and destroyed by French privateers. Only the ruins remain today.

The Ruins of Sé Cathedral

We began our walking tour of Cidade Velha on Banana Street, the town’s oldest street. Houses here were built of stone with thatched roofs that our guide said were made from dried sugar cane leaves.

Banana Street

We turned the corner and entered the Church of Our Lady of Rosário, which was built in 1495 and is the oldest colonial church in the world. Our guide pointed out the remaining few original Portuguese tiles, which have since been replicated and cover the walls in the church. The beautiful side chapel captured my attention, and I read later that it is a rare example of Gothic architecture in Sub-Saharan Africa.

Church of Our Lady of Rosário

Interior of Church of Our Lady of Rosário - Sanctuary, Side Chapel, and Tiles

We continued our walk past other historic houses and ended our tour with free time in Pillory Square, the main center of life in the village. The square is dominated by an ornate, sixteenth-century marble pillar that is a reminder of the cruelty of slavery in the colonies. It was here where slaves were tied up and publicly punished. Today, the square is a lively place, with vendors selling their wares. Adjacent to the square is the original port, now a beach for swimming and fishing.

As we were preparing to leave, we watched as a Good Friday procession as it made its way to the church.

More Historic Houses

Activity In and Around Pillory Square

Although it was very hot today, I really enjoyed our excursion and our guide. Cape Verde is a country I knew nothing about, and it was so interesting to learn about its history.