Day 108 – Lüderitz, Namibia

Viking Sky sailed into the port of Lüderitz, Namibia, this morning. Like many other places in Africa, Namibia’s history is rooted in colonialism, and while many scars of this period remain, some towns like Lüderitz have elected to preserve their colonial architecture.

Views of Lüderitz from the Port

While many passengers elected to explore Kolmanskop, which is now referred to as the Ghost Town of the Namib, Tim and I selected an optional tour, “Lovely Lüderitz,” a walking tour to discover the town’s architecture. This was the description:

Admire Lüderitz’s German art nouveau architecture and learn the history of this coastal town. Tucked between the barren Namib Desert and the windswept South Atlantic coast, Lüderitz is a colonial relic scarcely touched by the 21st century. Stroll at your leisure through this unique town, known for its German colonial buildings and reminiscent of a Bavarian village, with churches, bakeries and cafés. Pass the Goerke Haus—one of the town’s most extravagant mansions, built into the rock face on Diamond Hill at the turn of the 20th century during the diamond mining boom—and the hilltop Felsenkirche church, one of Namibia’s oldest Lutheran churches and a national monument. You will then have the chance to learn about the town’s history with a visit to the Lüderitz Museum. Here, peruse displays on local Indigenous groups, natural history and the town’s diamond mining past.

As we walked from the port, we were greeted by a local group. Because it was Sunday, the town was eerily quiet, with few people on the street and even fewer places open. Our first stop was the Lüderitz Museum, where we browsed the exhibits, most of which, not surprisingly, included explanations in German.

Welcome to Lüderitz

Lüderitz Museum

Lüderitz was established in 1884 as a German Protectorate in the former German South-West Africa after a businessman purchased land from the local chief. Following the discovery of diamonds in 1909, Lüderitz prospered as diamond prospectors rushed to the area. Although located in harsh environment between the Namib Desert and South Atlantic Ocean, trade in the harbor town surged, and the adjacent diamond mining settlement of Kolmanskop was built. We would soon discover that Lüderitz has changed little since Germany departed in 1915.

From the museum, we began to explore the many interesting buildings in the town, most of which were constructed between 1909 and 1914. Colorful streetscapes and grand houses, many of which have been restored, line the dirt streets.

Colorful Streetscape

Interesting Architecture

We climbed a steep hill to visit the Evangelical Lutheran Church, also known as the Felsenkirche or Church on the Rocks. This prominent building dominates Lüderitz from high on Diamond Hill.

Felsenkirche, the Church on the Rocks

Looking Up and Down Diamond Hill at a Few of the Buildings

One of the most extravagant houses we saw was Goerke Haus, which was built into the rock face of Diamond Hill. Originally the home of Lieutenant Hans Goerke, it was one of the town’s most extravagant properties. I especially loved the sundial and its fanciful gargoyles that divert rainwater from the roof and the house.

Goerke Haus

We continued our walk past more interesting buildings and finally stopped at the Lüderitz Railway Station. I learned later that in 1912, the German Imperial government granted permission for the construction of a new railway station building in Lüderitz. Completed in April 1914, shortly before the outbreak of World War I, it was the last major building to be constructed by the Germans in the colony.

Even More Historic Buildings

Lüderitz Railway Station

Although the railway station features several decorative elements, the station building reflects a modern style in its combination of technology and building art. This was indicative of the emergence of modern architecture in Germany at the time. Unfortunately, the railway line has been decommissioned.

As we walked back to the ship, we passed even more interesting buildings, mostly commercial structures in the old downtown area. I enjoyed today’s walking tour, and our guide was excellent, quite a contrast from the one in Cape Town.

A Commercial Block of Heritage Buildings

As we set sail this evening, I happened to look out our window and saw some interesting cloud formations as the sun was setting, a lovely end to a very nice day.

Sunset