Day 102 – East London, South Africa

East London is South Africa’s only river port, and Viking Sky sailed in at noon today.

East London Harbor

Tim and I would not see the city, however, since we had scheduled a different type of excursion. After visiting the DumaZulu Traditional Village two days ago, I wanted to learn about South Africa’s other major cultural group – the Xhosas. Therefore, we embarked on an optional excursion, “Xhosa Cultural Experience at Khaya La Bantu,” described as follows:

Learn about the Xhosa culture on a village visit to the Eastern Cape. On arrival at the Khaya La Bantu Cultural Village open air museum, you will be welcomed by local Xhosa. Listen as the various customs are introduced and observe a customary dance performance to the sound of drums. Performers will be wearing traditional costume and your guide will explain the importance of dress, as you observe how the intricately adorned attire indicates the social status of its wearer. Walk through the village and see the sacred kraal, a round structure of interwoven branches. See a local Beer Ceremony, where male members of the tribe may be invited to sample a glass. Taste a delicious array of traditional Xhosa foods including wild spinach with maize rice, and pot breads, along with complimentary refreshments. During your visit, traditional handicrafts will be on display, available for purchase.

After leaving East London, we passed several towns where even many of the poorer-looking houses had satellite dishes. The hillsides in the more rural areas were dotted with small villages, many of which featured traditional round houses, as well as more modern square ones.

Everyone Needs a Satellite Dish

Scenery Along the Way

We eventually turned off the main road onto a dirt lane with roaming cattle. I was surprised that this was our destination and was very curious when our driver stopped the bus and got out to talk with a woman standing in the doorway of a traditional hut with her children. After backing up the bus onto another dirt lane to reach the main road, I realized that we had been traveling for quite some time in the wrong direction.

This Is Not Where We Were Supposed to Be

After an extra hour on the road, we finally reached Khaya La Bantu, where we received a very warm welcome and were immediately swept up in the lively Xhosa culture. Dancers dressed in traditional outfits and accompanied by drums greeted us. We were then ushered into a large, round ceremonial building, where the men were seated on one side and the women on the other. Nine young Xhosa girls danced and sang for us, and then Michael stepped forward to introduce us to the village and the customs and heritage of the Xhosa people.

Lively Xhosa Dances

A Welcome from Michael

At the end, he asked if we had questions and expressed surprise that no one asked what a white guy was doing here. He explained that he was half white, half Xhosa and that he had been cared for by a Xhosa woman when he was young. He has embraced the Xhosa culture and went through the initiation rite that young boys go through around age 18 – circumcision.

The men in our group then left with Michael to learn what Xhosa men do, while we went with the women and girls to learn about their roles in Xhosa culture. The girls danced for us again, and when they were fanning themselves afterwards, Rose and another woman passed handheld fans to them.

The Girls Were Dancing for Us

One of the elder women, our teacher, introduced to Xhosa spiritual customs and explained that although she is Christian, she also worships her ancestors. She told us that Xhosa beliefs recognize the presence of both ancestral spirits and a supreme authority. The spirits of ancestors are honored in rituals and ceremonies, and they are called upon for guidance and support.

We also learned about the symbolism behind the various types of dress, the duties that women perform, and the way in which young girls are brought up and taught the skills they will need once they marry. As an example, one of the women and then the girls demonstrated how they grind maize into flour.

Learning About the Customs and Work of Xhosa Women

We were then invited to partake of brandy and their traditionally brewed beer. Before tasting either one, however, our teacher poured a small amount onto the floor for the ancestors. I was fine with the brandy, but I barely managed a sip of the beer.

It was then time to go to the kitchen to learn about traditional foods. Being the sometimes-subversive person that I am, I lingered behind and offered to show the girls my neck fan, a decidedly modern convenience. It was fun to put the fan around their necks and watch the amazement in their eyes as they felt the cool air on their faces.

Our teacher, however, soon returned, took my hand, and led me to where I was supposed to be. Here, there were large iron pots resting over an open fire, and the women showed us the traditional foods they had prepared in each pot. The smells were tantalizing, and we learned that they would be serving these foods to us. The meal was delicious.

Cooking Delicious Food Over an Open Fire

The women and girls also laid out a wide array of beaded jewelry and canvas bags they had made, and all of us seemed to be clamoring to purchase something. The girls, especially, seemed delighted when we selected one of their creations.

Too soon, it was time to reboard our motorcoach to return to the ship. Before we left, several of the girls came up to me and wanted to pose with me for pictures. They had no difficulty in taking selfies! These girls were so sweet, curious, and genuine, and I loved spending time with them. Likewise, the women were warm, delightful, and so open with us.

Selfies with the Xhosa Girls

A Warm Sendoff from Michael and the Xhosa Women and Girls

Spending time in the Xhosa village today was an amazing experience, and I left with a respect and understanding of this long-standing culture. Although I had thoroughly enjoyed our visit to the DumaZulu Traditional Village two days ago, this visit was even more meaningful to me. It felt more authentic, almost as though these warm and gracious people had invited us into their homes. This excursion certainly rates in the top ten of all excursions I’ve taken to date.

All About the Khaya La Bantu Village