Day 87 – Victoria, Mahé, Seychelles

Viking Sky sailed into the Seychelles this morning under a mix of sun and threatening clouds. We docked in Victoria, the capital and largest city in the Seychelles, which sits on the island of Mahé in the western Indian Ocean.

Sailing into the Seychelles

I must have missed the lectures that introduced us to this country and only knew that the Seychelles was another island destination popular with tourists for its beautiful beaches.

I have since learned that the Seychelles archipelago, which consists of 155 islands, was uninhabited until the arrival of French colonists in the 1770s. It became a British colony in 1814 and gained eventual independence in 1976. I was surprised to discover that Catholicism is the predominant religion, while Hinduism is a distant second. The Seychelles is the smallest country in Africa and the least populated sovereign African nation.

Tim and I set out on our included excursion, “Scenic Island of Mahé” shortly after lunch. This was the description:

Discover Mahé’s striking natural beauty during a scenic excursion across the island’s north end. The largest island in the Seychelles, Mahé is a renowned tropical paradise. Your panoramic drive will take you through lush vegetation, past charming villages and white-sand beaches. Admire views of the dramatic granite peaks that dot the island en route to the Seychelles National Botanical Garden. Here, stroll the grounds, keeping watch for giant Aldabra land tortoises, fruit bats and more than 200 species of endemic flora. Return to Victoria, stopping for refreshments at an elegant hotel. Then, set off on a brief guided walk around the town’s center, passing local landmarks, including many colonial-era buildings, the old courthouse and a replica of London’s Little Ben. Afterward, you will return to your ship.

Our first stop was the National Botanical Garden, a national monument. The Garden started as an agricultural station in 1901, and the first plant collections included anything of value to the colony. Since then, the Garden has become a public park and one of the most visited conservation sites in the country.

National Botanical Garden

Here, our excellent guide introduced us to the Coco de Mer palm trees, commonly called the sea coconut or double coconut, which has the largest seed in the plant kingdom and is endemic to the Seychelles. There are about 75 endemic plant species in the Seychelles. Endemic refers to plants whose geographic range or distribution is confined to a single given area.

Coco de Mer Palms

A Beautiful Botanical Garden

The most popular attraction at the Garden appeared to be the giant tortoises, which we could even pet. We walked among these amazing creatures, who were mostly napping when we arrived. Tim decided to befriend one of them.

Very Cool Giant Tortoises

As we continued our walk through the Garden, we caught sight of a few fruit bats high in the trees. On our way back to the entrance, we learned about more of the common plants here, and I was even able to see star fruit hanging from a tree.

Fruit Bats in the Trees

More Beautiful Plants and Trees

From the Garden, we made our way to the center of Victoria for a brief tour. The shops were closed because it was Sunday, but I was more interested in the architecture. We passed the Victoria Clocktower, a replica of Big Ben; Victoria’s colonial-era courthouse, built in 1885 and now the National Museum of History; the Arul Mihu Navasakthi Temple, the only Hindu temple on the Seychelles; and the Victoria Cathedral, a French colonial style Catholic church built in 1874.

Old Courthouse, Clock Tower, Hindu Temple, and Catholic Cathedral

We also stopped for a brief walking tour, where we saw examples of early Creole architecture. Buildings were often constructed of coral stone and timber, and pitched roofs, wide balconies, and ornate fretwork were common. Many of the shops we passed were originally run by Indian and Chinese traders. We also saw the marketplace that has been a center of commerce and community in Victoria since 1840. It, too, was closed today.

Creole Shops and a Market

We then began our scenic drive around the north end of the island. For much of the way, as we drove through the mountains on a narrow, windy road, we could see the ocean and many of the island’s beautiful beaches. We stopped for a few photo opportunities before reaching Berjaya Beau Vallon Bay Resort and Casino, where those who wished could enjoy the beach and dip their toes, or bodies, in the Indian Ocean.

Beautiful Beaches

The Beach at Berjaya Beau Vallon Bay Resort 

Tim and I simply sat and relaxed during our time there, although I did wander down near the beach to check it out. Although I’m not a beach person, many of the people on our bus really enjoyed this opportunity, and I was happy for them.

We crossed back over the mountain to return to our ship, and we had beautiful and expansive views along the way.

Beautiful Views towards the Ocean and Viking Sky

Throughout the day, I caught glimpses of a few Creole houses, most of which had steeply pitched roofs, dormers, and wide verandahs. These Creole houses combined the island’s colonial heritage with adaptations to local climatic conditions. From what I have read, however, the early Creole houses of the Seychelles have mostly disappeared.

A Few Partial Views of Creole Houses

I really enjoyed our visit to the Seychelles and felt much more at home here than in the Maldives.  Driving on scenic roads through the mountains and looking at interesting vernacular architecture is always great fun for me.