Day 132 – Vigo, Spain

We arrived in Vigo, Spain, this morning. Vigo is a thriving port city known as Spain’s “Gateway to the Atlantic,” with a history that dates to the Romans. Today, Vigo is one of the largest cities in Galicia, Spain’s autonomous northwestern region, and is known for its rich cultural heritage, delicious seafood, and stunning natural beauty.

This Was All I Saw of Vigo

Unfortunately, I would discover none of that. I was so exhausted from my adventure yesterday that I decided to stay on the ship. I even missed the Special Breakfast that was prepared by Executive Chef Alastair and his team. Sometimes, you just have to listen to your body, and that’s what I did today.

In the afternoon, Tim got a haircut and beard trim, and the transformation was amazing. What do you think?

Tim - Before and After

Tim and I both enjoyed the Viking BBQ on the Pool Deck this evening, with beautiful music by Guitar Entertainer Alan. I love that sunset is so much later as we head north.

Viking BBQ

Day 131 – Porto, Portugal

Viking Sky docked in Leixões, Portugal, this morning, the closest port to Porto, the country’s second-largest city. Porto is located on the Douro River and is known for its authentic vibe, its historic architecture, and its cellars of port wine that is still produced in the Douro Valley.

Docking in Leixões, Portugal

This was our first visit to Porto, so Tim and I selected the included excursion, “Porto by Foot,” with this description:

Get to know the city built on port, the fortified wine for which it is named. Straddling the Douro River, Porto is a vital center of education, religion, trade and industry. You will meet your guide at your ship, then head into the heart of the “City of Granite.” Thanks to the frequent use of this stone in the architectural landscape, the city has a grand appearance. In the Cordoaria district, you will view the masterful exterior of the Clérigos Tower, or Clergyman’s Tower. Once Portugal’s tallest structure, it was designed by Italian architect Nicolau Nasoni. Continue past the city’s Romanesque cathedral, built in the 12th century, and stop to admire its facade. En route back to your ship, pass through Aliados Avenue and gaze up at the beautiful buildings that line the street.

Before boarding the motorcoach, I was chatting with our guide and happened to mention my interest in architecture. He let me know that he had been an architect and would love to explain more about the architecture of Porto during our excursion. Perfect!

Our route followed the coast, past beaches; Castelo do Queijo; the "Tragedy of the Sea" monument, a sculpture in homage to a 1947 shipwreck; a waterfront promenade; the Pérgola da Foz; and the mouth of the Douro River, all of which are pictured below.

A Scenic Drive Along the Atlantic Ocean to the Mouth of the Douro River

We then drove along the lovely Douro River, where we saw several interesting features on the river’s opposite bank – the old wine cellars and two of Viking’s Longships that sail the Douro River. I would love to take this river cruise at some point.

Scenes Along the Douro River - Two Viking Longships (lower left) and Wine Cellars (lower right)

Porto is known for its hills, and our bus climbed one of the very steep streets to take us to the historic center of the city. Here, we began a short walk where our guide pointed out the many significant buildings before giving us free time to explore the area on our own.

Tim and I passed the Clérigos Tower, one of Porto’s most iconic architectural landmarks and the tallest structure in the historic center of Porto. The tower was commissioned in the eighteenth century by a group of priests who wanted to build a grand monument that would serve as a symbol of their religious devotion.

We walked past the Old Porto Prison, the University of Porto, and the newer Palace of Justice, where a statue of Justice stands in front of a bas-relief panel that caught my eye. The panel illustrates the evolution of justice, from Divine Law to Roman Law.

Clérigos Tower and Old Porto Prison (top row, left to right), Palace of Justice, Bas-Relief Panel,
and University of Porto (lower row, left to right)

We walked through the beautiful Jardim da Cordoaria, named after the rope makers who used to work here, and learned that the unusual trees are London plane trees, which have been officially classified as being of Public Interest. We also saw several sculptures, including The Thirteen Laughing at Each Other, four separate pieces that depict thirteen laughing men.

The Thirteen Laughing at Each Other (top left), Ponds and Flowers,
and Avenue of London Plane Trees (lower right)

We returned to the bus and began our descent to the waterfront, where we began our next walking tour. Our bus stopped next to another lovely garden with a statue of Prince Henry the Navigator in the center. The red Ferreira Borges Market at the top of the garden caught my eye. We walked past the Church of Saint Francis, the most prominent Gothic monument in Porto, and then turned down a narrow street where we saw one of the oldest houses in the city.

Ferreira Borges Market, Statue of Prince Henry the Navigator, Old Customs House,
Vintage Tram, and Church of Saint Francis

Walking the Streets of Porto, with One of the City's Oldest Houses in the Center Photo

The street led to the bustling waterfront, filled with restaurants, bars, and tourists. We had a perfect view of the iconic Dom Luís I Bridge, a double-deck, metal arch bridge that spans the Douro River. The bridge was built in 1877 by a partner of Gustav Eiffel and is one of the most photographed landmarks in Porto.

Scenes Along the Porto Waterfront

At this point, our guide gave us an hour on our own, and I decided it was the best time to strike out on my own, since there were several buildings that I wanted to see. Tim stayed with the tour while I climbed up the steep hill to the São Bento Railway Station. Nearly every space in the grand hall of this Beaux-Arts style building is decorated with some of the finest azulejo tile paintings in Portugal. Azulejos are a type of Portuguese painted tin-glazed ceramic tilework, and the panels here depict scenes of Portuguese history and the daily activities of the Portuguese people. This building was a must-see for me, and it was worth climbing the hill to enjoy the spectacular tilework.

São Bento Railway Station

What a Magnificent Space!

The Panels at Either End Were Covered with Linen

Panes on Either Side of the Central Entrance to the Train Platform

Panels at the Ends of the Main Wall

From there, I walked to the Praça da Liberdade, or Liberdade Square, the most important square in Porto, which connects the historic center of the city with the modern section. The grand Câmara Municipal, or City Hall, is located at the head of the square, with a group of buildings from the early twentieth century flanking it on either side.

Looking North and South along the Praça da Liberdade - The Top Photo Shows the Câmara Municipal

Buildings Flanking the Praça da Liberdade

From the square, I made my way back past the Jardim da Cordoaria and the Praca de Gomes Teixeira with its Fonte dos Leões, or Fountain of the Lions. My destination was the Igreja dos Carmelitas and the Igreja do Carmo, which one might think is the largest church in Porto. In fact, they are two separate churches. An ancient law prevented two churches from sharing the same wall, so one of the world's narrowest houses was built between them. The side façade of Igreja do Carmo is covered by a stunning panel of azulejo tile paintings that depict scenes showing the foundation of the Carmelite Order and Mount Carmel.

Praca de Gomes Teixeira, the Fonte dos Leões, and an Adjacent, Beautiful Art Deco Building

Igreja dos Carmelitas (left side) and the Igreja do Carmo (right side) In the Top Two Photos;
Tilework at Igreja do Carmo (lower two photos)

From there, I caught the shuttle back to the ship and walked through the Leixões Cruise Terminal, a landmark of contemporary Portuguese architecture. Designed by Luís Pedro Silva and inaugurated in 2015, the terminal is known for its sculptural spiral form, which is clad in over a million white ceramic tiles that glisten in the sun.

Leixões Cruise Terminal

It was a long day with lots of walking up and down steep hills, but it was worth it. I really enjoyed Porto and would love to return for a river cruise and more time to explore the city.

Day 130 – An Unplanned Day at Sea

Viking Sky was scheduled to arrive this morning in Portimão, the second-largest city in Portugal’s Algarve region. However, because this was a tender port and the weather forecast called for high winds and rapidly deteriorating conditions, Captain Frederik made the decision to cancel the stop here. 

I had previously decided to skip my excursion today and make this a sea day for me. It turned out to be a sea day for everyone on board, and the crew scrambled to schedule activities for us.

I had not yet looked at the revised schedule in the Viking Daily and was therefore surprised when Tim turned on the TV and discovered that Dr. Caroline Malloy was presenting a forum on “Joining the Pantheon of World Travelers,” a perfect topic for me. She explored the narratives of such travelers as Ferdinand Magellan, Captain James Cook, Charles Darwin, Jeanne Baret, and us!

Joining the Pantheon of World Travelers

Caroline encouraged us to write the story of our circumnavigation, which those of us who are creating blogs are in the process of doing. She then posed five questions for us to think about. Caroline consults with would-be writers who wish to publish nonfiction books, so this was a wonderful insight into how to structure a narrative of our World Cruise. I don’t have the answers to these questions now, but I will think about them as we continue our journey.

When You Write the Story of Your Circumnavigation. . .

Tonight, we said goodbye to several of our favorite crew members, who will be leaving the ship tomorrow in Porto. Tim and I joined Jacquee and Larry at The Chef’s Table for a final dinner with Carlito, Mikha, and Godie. We will miss them when we dine here over the next two months.

Larry, Carlito, Sarah, Jacquee, Mikha, Tim, and Godie

Tim and I also said goodbye to Jayson, our exceptional stateroom steward. Jayson has been a daily presence in our lives for these last four months, and we will miss him.

Sarah, Jayson, and Tim

Day 129 – Cádiz, Spain

Today, we arrived in Spain, the first country in Europe on our World Cruise itinerary. The port city of Cádiz, where we docked, gained incredible wealth during the eighteenth century as riches from the Americas were unloaded here. 

Views of Cádiz from Viking Sky

When we docked in Cádiz in 2023, I traveled to Seville to see its amazing architecture. Today, I wanted to see the idyllic countryside and charming villages of the province of Andalusia. One of these days, I’ll visit the city of Cádiz to see all that it has to offer.

This was the description of my optional excursion, “Andalusian Experience”:

Glimpse the authentic culture of Andalusia during a scenic country drive along the Route of the Bulls. The region of Andalusia is famous for its fighting bulls. Board your motor coach and embark on a picturesque journey through the idyllic countryside, passing whitewashed villages, beautiful beaches, and olive groves and vineyards. Keep watch for the many herds of grazing and lounging bulls that dot the landscape. Your guide will describe the history of bullfighting, which dates back to the 6th century BC. See the town of Medina-Sidonia, nestled between the mountains and the sea, and the village of Vejer de la Frontera, located atop a rocky hill not far from the ocean. You will make a stop in Conil de la Frontera, a charming seaside village. Enjoy free time to explore its narrow winding streets, beautiful beaches, promenade and shops before boarding your coach and returning to your ship.

As we drove out of town, I was able to see several of the important buildings and plazas of Cádiz, including the Plaza de Sevilla and Puertas de Tierra, a bastion monument built around remnants of the old defensive wall at the entrance to the city.

Sights of Cádiz -Puertas de Tierra (upper left and center), Plaza de Sevilla (upper right), 
and the Former Royal Tobacco Factory (lower right)

On the outskirts of town, we passed through the marshes and salt flats of Cádiz. The salt flats are a natural source of sea salt and have defined the landscape of the Bay of Cádiz for the last three thousand years. We saw the ruins of several salt flat houses, where the workers lived, and learned that salt is the origin of the word "salary," because salt was used to pay the salaries of the Roman soldiers and workers.

Salt Flats and Ruins of a Salt Flat House

As we drove into the countryside, I was enamored by the beauty of the Andalusian landscape, with its rolling hills, green pastures, and white villages perched on hillsides.

The Beautiful Countryside of Andalusia

We were only able to catch a brief glimpse of the ancient hilltop town of Medina-Sidonia, since our motorcoach could not get close to the walled city due to its narrow streets. The views over the countryside, however, were beautiful. The driver did not even attempt to try to climb the hill to the village of Vejer de la Frontera. Walking is really the only way to visit these towns on an excursion.

This Was All We Saw of Medina-Sidonia

Throughout the day, our guide pointed out the many red cows and bulls that have existed in the Iberian Peninsula since ancient times. She provided no other information about the bulls or the history of bullfighting as mentioned in the excursion description.

Scenes of Andalusia

As we approached Conil de la Frontera, we could see why it is one of the White Towns of Andalusia. We could also see how the town was originally protected by watchtowers along the Atlantic coast. Today, the town is known for its beaches, and several of our guests headed there for our hour of free time. The town itself was the draw for me.

Approaching the Town of Conil de la Frontera

Along the Waterfront of Conil de la Frontera

The medieval village of Conil de la Frontera developed around the Tower of Guzman during the fourteenth and fifteenth centuries. Although it sits alone in the square today, the tower was originally at the center of a fortified castle that was built to provide shelter in the case of enemy attacks. Tuna fishing was the main industry here, and the town flourished.

Tower of Guzman and Drawings of the Original Castle

The tower is surrounded by Plaza de Santa Catalina, which contains the town’s original church. Today, it is a cultural center.

Plaza Santa Catalina

Without a map, I simply wandered the streets. Ducking first under a low arch, I found myself following what I assumed to be the original walls of the city. I then somehow ended up at the Plaza de España, the central square in town. This plaza is located just inside the only remaining town gate within the walls that surrounded the town during the sixteenth century.

The Original Town Walls?

The Original Town Gate Leading to Plaza de España

Although I enjoyed getting lost in the town, I briefly panicked when I realized that I had only a short time to find my way back to the motorcoach. Thank goodness I had connectivity and could count on Google maps.

I finally made it back to the bus, and we returned to Viking Sky. We sailed away from Cádiz shortly afterward.

Leaving Cádiz 

Tim and I enjoy listening to Dr. Caroline Malloy, so we watched her lecture on “Explorers – The Age of Discovery.” She touched on five great periods of exploration, although the focus was the era that began with Columbus and Vasco da Gama.

Explorers - The Age of Discovery

Day 128 – Casablanca, Morocco

Our Marrakesh Overland excursion ended today with a drive from Marrakesh to Casablanca to rejoin Viking Sky. This was the description of today’s plan:

Day 4 - Casablanca, Morocco

After breakfast, check out of your hotel and board your motor coach for the drive to Casablanca. Upon arrival, enjoy a panoramic tour of the famous “White City,” including a stop to view the facade of the Hassan II Mosque, the largest functioning mosque in Africa. Admire its stunning blend of traditional Moorish architecture and modern innovation, then transfer to your awaiting ship to resume your cruise.

We left Marrakesh via Boulevard Mohammed VI, one of the main streets in the western section of the city. I was happy that we were able to see the Marrakesh Railway Station, a blend of classical Moroccan and Islamic architectural influences with modern design. All buildings we passed this morning were less than 100 years old.

Scenes Along Boulevard Mohammed VI - The Railway Station Is the Center Photo

The four-hour drive to Casablanca was mostly by motorway, with scenic views of the countryside along the way. We passed more olive groves, many small villages, and acre after acre of various crops that I could not identify. We even saw fields of red poppies and a blue flower that had just emerged after the recent rains.

Scenes Along the Way

Fields of Flowers

During the drive, we learned more about the country of Morocco. Morocco's history is marked by diverse influences and periods of power, from ancient Berber kingdoms to Arab invasions and European colonialism. Morocco became a French protectorate in 1912 and finally achieved its independence in 1956. Today, Morocco is a constitutional monarchy.

According to our guide, Morocco is a stable country, unlike much of the Middle East, and this is due to the monarchy, where the king sets foreign policy. Morocco also does not react to provocation on the spot. Due to these factors, Morocco is respected by other countries. He wisely pointed out, however, that there is no friendship between countries, only the interests of each one.

Our guide also delved into some of the traditional elements of Moroccan culture. He acknowledged that certain aspects may not be good or even right in today’s world. However, he stated that these elements are what they are and remain a part of the culture of the country. He explained that people simply do not talk about things they do not agree with.

Morocco has made remarkable progress in reducing poverty over the past decade, although there were setbacks during the pandemic. Our guide emphasized, however, that a hard life does not mean a miserable life and that Moroccans can live well on very little.

As we approached the city of Casablanca, the largest city in Morocco and the country's economic and financial center, we saw the skyline of high-rise buildings that now dominate the “White City,” as it is known.

We had a brief panoramic tour through the newer section of the city and drove along lovely tree-lined boulevards. We caught a glimpse of the massive Cathedral of the Sacred Heart, a former Catholic church built in the 1930s that combines Gothic and Art Deco design elements.

Many members of our group wanted to stop at Rick’s Café, a restaurant, café, and bar that opened in 2004 as a recreation of the set of the bar made famous in the classic movie Casablanca. I still don’t quite understand the appeal of what I consider to be a tourist trap that isn't even real, but to each his own. I had to take a photo of the other tourists taking photos of the place.

Casablanca Skyline, Cathedral of the Sacred Heart, and Tourists in Front of Rick's Cafe

The highlight of our tour of Casablanca was the Hassan II Mosque, the largest mosque in Africa, where we stopped to view the exterior. The mosque was completed in 1993 and is considered by some to be one of the most beautiful religious buildings in the world.

The architecture of the mosque is a blend of traditional Moroccan design elements with contemporary construction techniques, showcasing the nation’s commitment to preserving its cultural legacy while embracing the modern era. The design continues the architectural tradition of the Koutoubia Mosque in Marrakesh, which we visited two days ago.

All building materials used in the construction of the mosque came from Morocco, except for the white granite columns and Murano glass chandeliers imported from Italy.

Hassan II Mosque

Hassan II Mosque

On the drive back to the ship, we passed by the walls of the old medina, although there was no time for a visit. The only way to see the medina was on foot.

Old City Walls

Tim and I finally returned to Viking Sky, settled back into our room, and unpacked. I’m so grateful that we were able to participate in this excursion and see another part of the world and its ancient culture. It was another eye-opening experience. I really enjoyed Morocco and would like to return and spend more time there.

Sailing Away from Casablanca

We even had time to watch Dr. Caroline Malloy’s lecture on “The History of Spain,” since that country is next on our itinerary. She helped us understand Spain’s unique role in European and world history.

History of Spain: Tradition and Modernity

Timeline of Spanish History

Day 127 – Essaouira, Morocco

After a full day in Marrakesh yesterday, we departed early this morning to visit the seaside town of Essaouira. This was the plan for the day:

Day 3 - Essaouira, Morocco

Visit Essaouira and delve into the rich history of this 18th-century UNESCO town. Explore the medina and wander the narrow streets to admire its magnificent ramparts and fortifications. After lunch and free time to explore, drive to Le Val d’Argan; this stunning estate covers more than 80 acres and is home to vineyards, olive groves and argan trees. Discover how camels are used to harvest the grapes and savor a wine tasting before returning to your hotel for an evening at your leisure.

The ride to Essaouira was long, but I enjoyed seeing the countryside. Olive trees were everywhere, which was not surprising since Morocco has always been a land of olives and is the world's fifth largest producer and exporter of olive oil.

So Many Groves of Olive Trees

We passed many traditional Moroccan buildings made with mud bricks and rammed earth, although most of these were in ruins. We also saw many flocks of sheep grazing near the road with their lone shepherds, who are part of the intangible heritage of Morocco.

The Heritage of Morocco - Shepherds and Their Sheep and Mud Brick and Rammed Earth Buildings

Before reaching Essaouira, we began to see argan trees. Today, the trees grow only in southwestern Morocco between Essaouira and Agadir, where we began our overland excursion. The argan tree is central to life in the rural Berber communities here. For centuries, Berbers have used argan oil for cooking, cosmetics, and medicines, and argan wood for tools, construction, and fuel.

Goats and argan trees seem to go together, since goats are attracted to the argan fruit inside the nuts. The goats will even climb the trees to reach the nuts, and our guide called them flying goats. I didn’t see any goats in the trees but did see a few reaching up toward the branches.

Argan Trees and Goats

Driving through the small villages with their colorful markets was interesting to me. Here, mules and donkeys were a common form of transportation.

Traditional Villages and Means of Transportation

We stopped at Le Val d’Argan to sample their wines and enjoy a wide array of tapas. This was my first chance to try a wide variety of Moroccan olives, and these were so much better than the ones I’m used to. Here, they don’t use tractors in the vineyard; they use camels, and I saw two of them before we left.

A Refreshing Visit to Le Val d’Argan

Camels with One Hump Are Called Dromedaries

We soon arrived in Essaouira, our primary destination for the day. Essaouira is located on the Atlantic coast and was founded in 1765 as a trading port linking Morocco and sub-Saharan Africa with Europe and the rest of the world. Its history, however, dates to the seventh century BCE, when Phoenicians stopped here while transiting the Atlantic Ocean.

We drove past the city walls and entered the medina, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The medina is “an outstanding and well preserved example of a mid-eighteenth-century fortified seaport town, with a strong European influence translated to a North African context,” according to UNESCO documents.

City Walls Enclose the Medina

We wandered through the narrow streets and admired the unique blue and white architecture, with its whitewashed walls and blue accents, including doors and shutters.

Narrow Streets, but No Motorcycles!

Whitewashed Buildings with Blue Accents

Doors of Essaouira 

Cats of Essaouira 

We paid an unplanned visit to the Bayt Dakira, or the House of Memory, an interesting museum and cultural center that showcases the history of the Moroccan Jewish community in Essaouira and other Moroccan cities. The museum also celebrates the long history of the peaceful coexistence of Muslims and Jews in both Essaouira and Morocco in general. Moroccan Jews were originally encouraged to settle here and handle the trade with Europe, and Jews once comprised most of the population.

Bayt Dakira

Our guide took us to an area where we could walk up to and explore the city walls. Here, we enjoyed expansive views of the Atlantic Ocean.

Exploring the Walls of Essaouira 

Tim and Sarah On the Walls of Essaouira 

As we made our way back to the motorcoach, we walked through the main square and past the citadel near the harbor.

Walking Back Past the Citadel and City Walls

After a nice buffet lunch at a modern hotel outside the medina, we began our drive back to Marrakesh.

Lunch at the Atlas Essaouira and Spa

On the way, we stopped at the Marjana Argan Cooperative, a community where skilled Berber women demonstrated the traditional, and laborious, process of producing argan oil. These women first removed the pulp and then cracked the shell to release the one or two kernels. The nuts are extremely hard and must be cracked carefully with stones so as not to damage the kernels. A handmade stone mill was used to extract the oil from lightly roasted nuts.

The preparation of argan oil has always been a sociable group activity, and we could see how the tradition continues in this cooperative. Although I rarely shop, I broke down here and purchased several items.

Producing Argan Oil at the Marjana Argan Cooperative

It was after 7:00 pm when we finally returned to our hotel in Marrakesh, but I really enjoyed today. Although I appreciated Marrakesh and its history and amazing architecture, I preferred Essaouira, with its calmer and laidback vibe. I am very happy to have seen Marrakesh for myself, but I’m glad Essaouira was on our itinerary as well.

Best Friends - Our Guide Hanyn and Tim