Day 109 – Walvis Bay, Namibia

We are continuing to sail north along the western coast of Africa, and today, we arrived in Walvis Bay, Namibia, at noon for an overnight stay. Walvis Bay is surrounded by the high sand dunes of the Namib Desert, the world’s oldest, and we could see the dunes in the distance as we docked. Unlike Lüderitz, this area was occupied by the British in 1884, and it was eventually incorporated it into that country's Cape Colony.

We Could See the Sand Dunes of Walvis Bay from the Ship

Tim and I had planned to take the included tour today, but we rescheduled it for tomorrow when we learned about a very special event that Viking had planned for us tonight. We were invited to “an Al Fresco dinner under the stars, where the magic of the Namibian desert comes alive, filled with cultural flair, culinary delights, and mesmerizing performances.” How could we resist such an invitation!

We departed from the port at 5:00 pm “on a drive to a secret location where you will enjoy a full dinner buffet served under the Namibian star studded skies! With views of arid lunar-like landscapes amidst the vast desert plains, this is the most awe-inspiring venue nature has on offer.”

The above description was no exaggeration! The scenic drive to the desert past the massive sand dunes was lovely. When we arrived at our “secret location,” we were stunned to find tables filled with glasses of sparkling wine, a series of massive tents, and a backdrop of magnificent sand dunes. It was spectacular!

The Sand Dunes Along Our Drive Were Impressive

Our Arrival at the Secret Location

We were greeted by five elegant Herero ladies, who welcomed us to the event, while a local Marimba band serenaded us as we made our way into this magical setting.

A Welcome Greeting and a Serenade

Some of the Guests Decided to Climb the Sand Dunes before Dinner

As the sun began to set, we feasted on an incredible Braai menu, a traditional outdoor meat cooking style in South Africa. We were told that the chefs had begun cooking their wide assortment of meats at 4:00 am. I tried the springbok steak and the boerewors, a type of sausage that originated in South Africa, and both were delicious. The malva pudding with custard sauce, a traditional South African dessert, was my favorite.

Getting Ready for Dinner

The Smoky Aroma of Meat Grilled Over an Open Flame Enticed Us and Was Delicious

I was able to thank one of the caterers for putting together such a spectacular event, as well as several of the waitresses, who were so sweet.

Such Beautiful People

More than 700 Viking guests had accepted the invitation to this event, far above the number ever handled by the caterer, so Viking had sent a contingent of crew members to assist. I had fun walking around, talking with the officers and crew, and taking their photos. Like us, they were so excited to experience such a special event and seemed to be having a lot of fun.

A Few of My Favorite Officers and Crew Members, With Such Happy Smiles

After darkness set in, the firepits and luminaries cast a warm light below the star-studded sky, and it was soon time to return to the Viking Sky. As we would soon find out, however, the special evening was not over.

The Desert by Candlelight

As we walked toward the ship, we heard music, and we were soon enveloped by smiling and cheering crew members, who had come out to welcome us back. Chef Alistair was the DJ, and the crew was dancing and singing to the music. We felt like VIPs walking the red carpet, and it was another very special moment.

A Rousing Welcome Back to the Ship (Excuse the Blurry Images!)

To cap off this enchanting evening, the chef had put together “A Sweet Surprise Under the Stars” on the Pool Deck, with a decadent array of chocolate delights, fine cheeses, and hand-selected wines.

A Sweet Surprise Under the Stars

Even though I have tried, I cannot put into words how magical this evening was, from start to finish. It was so over-the-top, and every guest kept gushing about how unforgettable it had been. Once again, Viking amazed me. This World Cruise continues to be the most awesome experience ever.

Day 108 – Lüderitz, Namibia

Viking Sky sailed into the port of Lüderitz, Namibia, this morning. Like many other places in Africa, Namibia’s history is rooted in colonialism, and while many scars of this period remain, some towns like Lüderitz have elected to preserve their colonial architecture.

Views of Lüderitz from the Port

While many passengers elected to explore Kolmanskop, which is now referred to as the Ghost Town of the Namib, Tim and I selected an optional tour, “Lovely Lüderitz,” a walking tour to discover the town’s architecture. This was the description:

Admire Lüderitz’s German art nouveau architecture and learn the history of this coastal town. Tucked between the barren Namib Desert and the windswept South Atlantic coast, Lüderitz is a colonial relic scarcely touched by the 21st century. Stroll at your leisure through this unique town, known for its German colonial buildings and reminiscent of a Bavarian village, with churches, bakeries and cafés. Pass the Goerke Haus—one of the town’s most extravagant mansions, built into the rock face on Diamond Hill at the turn of the 20th century during the diamond mining boom—and the hilltop Felsenkirche church, one of Namibia’s oldest Lutheran churches and a national monument. You will then have the chance to learn about the town’s history with a visit to the Lüderitz Museum. Here, peruse displays on local Indigenous groups, natural history and the town’s diamond mining past.

As we walked from the port, we were greeted by a local group. Because it was Sunday, the town was eerily quiet, with few people on the street and even fewer places open. Our first stop was the Lüderitz Museum, where we browsed the exhibits, most of which, not surprisingly, included explanations in German.

Welcome to Lüderitz

Lüderitz Museum

Lüderitz was established in 1884 as a German Protectorate in the former German South-West Africa after a businessman purchased land from the local chief. Following the discovery of diamonds in 1909, Lüderitz prospered as diamond prospectors rushed to the area. Although located in harsh environment between the Namib Desert and South Atlantic Ocean, trade in the harbor town surged, and the adjacent diamond mining settlement of Kolmanskop was built. We would soon discover that Lüderitz has changed little since Germany departed in 1915.

From the museum, we began to explore the many interesting buildings in the town, most of which were constructed between 1909 and 1914. Colorful streetscapes and grand houses, many of which have been restored, line the dirt streets.

Colorful Streetscape

Interesting Architecture

We climbed a steep hill to visit the Evangelical Lutheran Church, also known as the Felsenkirche or Church on the Rocks. This prominent building dominates Lüderitz from high on Diamond Hill.

Felsenkirche, the Church on the Rocks

Looking Up and Down Diamond Hill at a Few of the Buildings

One of the most extravagant houses we saw was Goerke Haus, which was built into the rock face of Diamond Hill. Originally the home of Lieutenant Hans Goerke, it was one of the town’s most extravagant properties. I especially loved the sundial and its fanciful gargoyles that divert rainwater from the roof and the house.

Goerke Haus

We continued our walk past more interesting buildings and finally stopped at the Lüderitz Railway Station. I learned later that in 1912, the German Imperial government granted permission for the construction of a new railway station building in Lüderitz. Completed in April 1914, shortly before the outbreak of World War I, it was the last major building to be constructed by the Germans in the colony.

Even More Historic Buildings

Lüderitz Railway Station

Although the railway station features several decorative elements, the station building reflects a modern style in its combination of technology and building art. This was indicative of the emergence of modern architecture in Germany at the time. Unfortunately, the railway line has been decommissioned.

As we walked back to the ship, we passed even more interesting buildings, mostly commercial structures in the old downtown area. I enjoyed today’s walking tour, and our guide was excellent, quite a contrast from the one in Cape Town.

A Commercial Block of Heritage Buildings

As we set sail this evening, I happened to look out our window and saw some interesting cloud formations as the sun was setting, a lovely end to a very nice day.

Sunset

Day 107 – Sail the South Atlantic Ocean

After leaving South Africa, we are being treated to one sea day before we arrive in Namibia. We are sailing the South Atlantic Ocean, and the Viking Daily had an interesting tidbit about this body of water. I thought I would copy it here:

The Atlantic Ocean is divided in half, north to south, by the Mid Atlantic Ridge, or MAR. Longer than the Rockies, the Himalayas and the Andes combined, this underwater mountain range is the longest on Earth. Remarkably, it follows the “S” shape of the open ocean almost exactly, suggesting that, eons ago, this was the point at which the world’s land masses were conjoined as the super-continent known as Pangaea.

Tim and I managed to get up in time to attend Robin Binckes’ sobering lecture on “The Prelude to Apartheid – A Crime Against Humanity.” Robin preceded his talk with a warning that “some of the content contains graphic images which you may find upsetting,” and indeed the images were upsetting. This first of four talks explained the many events in South African history that contributed to the implementation of Apartheid. This subject is much too complicated for me to summarize here, but it was important for me to try to understand the background of this “Crime Against Humanity.”

Background to Apartheid

Tonight, I had dinner by myself at The Chef’s Table. Tim was not up for a five-course meal, and I didn’t want to miss the last night of the South African menu. I really didn’t mind eating alone, especially here. This menu, South Africa: Cuisine from the “Rainbow Nation,” was created by Guest Chef Ashleigh Green, and I enjoyed every course, especially the dessert. This was the description:

A five-course tasting menu showcasing the flavors and textures of South African cuisine.

South Africa Menu, With Descriptions of the Five Courses Pictured Below

Amuse Bouche, Appetizer, Granite, Main Course, and Dessert

Head Waiter Carlito and waiters Mikha and Godie always look after us at The Chef’s Table, and I am so sad that they will be leaving us in Porto.

Carlito, Sarah, Mikha, and Godie

Day 106 – Cape Town, South Africa

We did a “repositioning cruise” last night as Viking Sky moved from a commercial terminal to Cape Town’s cruise ship terminal. When I woke up this morning, I had a much better view of Table Mountain.

Table Mountain

Today was my day to enjoy Cape Town’s scenic beauty, and I set out on an optional excursion entitled “Chapman's Peak and Kaapse Weg Scenic Drive.” This was the description:

Discover the beauty of Cape Town’s coast and mountains on this scenic drive. Travel by motor coach, taking in impressive vistas along the Atlantic coast before stopping for photos at Maiden’s Cove. Nestled between two beaches, this lookout spot offers magnificent views of the Twelve Apostles, the mountain range that forms the backbone of the Cape Peninsula. Continue down the coastal road to Chapman’s Peak Drive. This thrilling stretch of road between Hout Bay and Noordhoek was completed in 1922 using prison labor. It hugs the side of the mountain as it winds along the steep coast, offering striking views of the crashing waves below. Pass the white sands of Noordhoek Beach, then turn inland to head over the mountains along Ou Kaapse Weg (Old Cape Road). Enjoy views of the southern peninsula, Cape Flats and False Bay before descending into Cape Town.

We soon left the city behind and followed the coast, stopping at the same spot where we stopped yesterday to view the Twelve Apostles and the rugged coastline.

The Twelve Apostles

Interesting Public Art Along the Drive

Chapman’s Peak Drive, the highlight of the day, was next. Located on South Africa's Atlantic Coast between Hout Bay and Noordhoek, Chapman’s Peak Drive has been recognized as one of the world’s most breathtaking coastal drives, with unparalleled scenic beauty and 114 thrilling curves along the way.

We began by driving into Hout Bay, one of the most active, and picturesque, fishing harbors in South Africa. Located on the northern side of Chapman's Peak Drive, it is surrounded by mountains and the Atlantic Ocean.

Hout Bay

We then circled the bay and began our climb. Constructed initially during World War I, this route climbs steeply up to Chapman's Peak and follows the rocky coastline, affording stunning views in both directions. We stopped at an overlook and had gorgeous views back towards Hout Bay.

Chapman's Peak Drive - Looking Back at Hout Bay

Chapman's Peak Drive Hugs the Cliff Above the Ocean

Spectacular Views

We then began our descent and soon reached Noordhoek at the southern end of the drive. Noordhoek, with its beautiful beach, is said to be the last remaining truly rural area and country village in the Cape Peninsula.

So Many Twists and Turns As We Descended the Mountain

The White Sands of Noordhoek Beach

To return to Cape Town, we turned inland onto Ou Kaapse Weg, another beautiful drive through a mountain pass that provides panoramic views of the surrounding landscapes. The Steenberg Mountains towered over us, and we saw a few of the wineries for which Cape Town is famous.

Views from Ou Kaapse Weg

Our guide today was much better than the one we had yesterday, although she couldn’t seem to keep her microphone close to her mouth, despite being reminded to do so a few times. As a result, I missed much of her commentary. I had expected much more from the guides in Cape Town.

Despite a good lunch on the ship, I had a craving in the afternoon for popcorn or potato chips. Neither was available, so I settled for French fries from the Pool Grill, along with an Absolut and tonic. I was trying to reconcile my mixed feelings about Cape Town with the rave reviews expressed by most people.

I therefore decided it might be a good idea to watch one of the lectures I had missed, Laura Lovelock’s talk on “Cape Town: History and Highlights.” She gave an excellent presentation on the turbulent history of the city, from the earliest Dutch settlement to the present day. She showed a slide of what I had read was a “must-see,” Bo-Kapp, a former racially segregated area and one of Cape Town’s most historically rich neighborhoods. I suddenly remembered that several people on two of my excursions had requested that we drive through there, but both guides had said it was not possible.

Cape Town: History and Highlights

It didn’t take me long to conclude that I had received a sanitized view of Cape Town. We saw the city’s beautiful new buildings and a few restored historic ones, but only the very wealthy or “charming” neighborhoods. I certainly enjoyed the picturesque natural wonders of the Cape, the breathtaking mountainous landscape, and the scenic drives. I just never discovered the diverse heritage that Cape Town claims to celebrate.

After dinner, while I was “making my rounds,” as I like to call it, to say hello to some of my favorite crew members, I ran into Hotel General Manager Marcel. We chatted for a bit, and he asked how my day had been. During the conversation, I just happened to mention my earlier craving for popcorn or potato chips before wishing him good night.

Imagine my surprise when I answered a knock on my door less than an hour later and saw a room service waiter bearing a tray with two bags of popcorn! A note from Marcel read, “I hope you will enjoy your popcorn.” I was flabbergasted, to say the least! This was just one more instance of how thoughtful the Viking officers and crew are and the lengths to which they go to please us.

A Popcorn Surprise!

Day 105 – Cape Town, South Africa

It was still dark when Viking Sky sailed into Cape Town this morning, but I was able to enjoy the views of the iconic Table Mountain after the sun came up.

Views of Cape Town and Table Mountain from Our Ship

Cape Town, South Africa’s oldest and second largest city, is the country’s legislative capital. Founded by the Dutch East India Company in 1652, Cape Town was ceded to the United Kingdom in 1814. The history of Cape Town and South Africa is often divided between the Apartheid Era, which began in 1948, and the Post-Apartheid Era, which began with the first democratic election in 1994.

Cape Town is an international tourist destination, and I think everyone on the ship was looking forward to our overnight stop here. Tim, however, was dealing with a very sore throat that he feared might be strep, so he remained on the ship. Selecting excursions had been difficult, but I finally selected a rather unusual choice for this morning, “Boulders Beach and Kalk Bay,” described as follows:

Visit Table Mountain National Park to see the only penguins on the African continent before exploring Kalk Bay. Travel to Simon's Town, where you will be surrounded by mountains as you head to a sheltered beach on the Cape Peninsula. Boulders Beach, which forms part of Table Mountain National Park, located in the UNESCO-listed Cape Floral Region, is home to an endangered, land-based colony of African penguins, one of only a few in the world. You will have a one hour guided excursion to see their nesting grounds and habitat. After, take a short drive to the picturesque fishing village of Kalk Bay, one of South Africa's oldest towns, named one of the "12 Coolest Neighborhoods Around the World" by Forbes magazine. You will have free time to explore its cobbled streets, historical buildings and boutique shops while you take in coastal views of colorful fishing boats and mountains.

After a lovely drive, we arrived at Boulders Beach, home of the African penguin. As we walked down the elevated boardwalk toward the water, we admired the stunning views of the beach and mountains beyond. It wasn’t long, however, before we saw our first penguins, and I couldn’t stop photographing them. Can you ever have too many photos of these cute little creatures.

We were given one hour to view the penguins, but no guided tour. Instead, I learned about them by reading the waysides along the boardwalk. The African penguin is endemic to Southern Africa and has been classified as an endangered species. However, Boulders Beach is now part of the Table Mountain National Park Marine Protected Area, thus ensuring that the penguins are protected.

African Penguins at Boulders Beach

So Many Penguins on a Beautiful Rocky Beach

More Penguins, a Few of Which Are Molting

One Penguin - Six Expressions - So Cute!

The peak of the penguin breeding season is from March to May, and we saw many females sitting on their nests in the sand. I even caught a glimpse of an egg beneath one of them. I only saw a few chicks, although the ones that I did see were even cuter than their parents. These chicks must have been less than one month old since they were still being kept warm by their parents and were not yet left on their own. I even saw a few penguins that were molting.

Penguin Nesting Area, One Chick, and An Egg

Mama Penguin and Her Chick - Make That Two Chicks!

We then stopped at the town of Kalk Bay, where we were given another hour to wander around. Kalk Bay is a small harbor town that is best known for its unique fishing community. For me, the harbor and colorful boats were the most interesting part of the town. If I were a shopper, I likely would have enjoyed some of the interesting-looking shops, but that’s not my interest anymore. Several of us just tried to kill time until we could board the motorcoach for our return to the ship.

Kalk Bay

Although I loved seeing the penguins, the rest of the excursion was disappointing.

After returning to the ship and having a bite to eat, I decided that I needed to see more of the city of Cape Town. Luckily, there was room on the included excursion, “Introduction to Cape Town,” and I joined the group. This was the description:

Explore proudly multicultural Cape Town, in which diverse traditions, cuisine and landscapes collide. Travel through Cape Town by motor coach to get oriented in the “Mother City.” In the heart of the city, you will have the chance to get out and enjoy a stroll through the Company’s Garden. With historic buildings, museums, places of worship and an art gallery, the garden is home to South Africa’s oldest cultivated pear tree and a rose garden built in 1929. There is also a unique scented garden for the blind, where you can close your eyes and inhale the different fragrances. Stroll past the Houses of Parliament, an inner sanctum of South African politics dating back to 1885, and the South African Jewish Museum, opened by Nelson Mandela in 2000. Then, visit the famed Victoria & Alfred Waterfront, where you will have free time to explore independently.

On our way to the downtown area, we drove past the Castle of Good Hope, the oldest colonial structure in Cape Town. This fortress was built by the Dutch East India Company between 1666 and 1679 to safeguard its interests in the Cape.

Castle of Good Hope

After next passing by Cape Town City Hall, where Nelson Mandela gave his first speech as a free man, we got off the motorcoach and began our walking tour. Here, we saw a variety of buildings that reflect the history and evolution of the city.

Our first stop was St. George’s Cathedral. Known as the “People’s Cathedral” for its role in the resistance against apartheid, St. George’s is the oldest cathedral in Southern Africa. Desmond Tutu, the first black archbishop of South Africa, led numerous marches and campaigns for the formal end of apartheid from the front steps of the cathedral, and several of his quotes are printed on the glass doors.

St. George's Cathedral

Among the many beautiful midrise buildings near the cathedral, we saw the Slave Lodge, the second oldest colonial building in Cape Town, where slaves worked for the Dutch East India Company until 1811. Today, it is a museum that tells the stories of slavery and its legacy in South Africa.

Beautiful Downtown Buildings - The Slave Lodge Is the Center Photo

Our walking tour then took us into the Company’s Garden, an oasis in the center of the city that is a favorite with both locals and tourists. It was also the highlight of this afternoon’s excursion for me. The garden was originally created in the 1650s by the Dutch East India Company for the purpose of providing fresh vegetables to the settlement as well as passing ships.

Today, the garden is a beautiful park filled with statues, monuments, and all types of flora and fauna. Surrounding the garden are many of the city’s most significant buildings, including government buildings, museums, and churches. 

Buildings Adjacent to the Company's Garden - Houses of Parliament (top right and bottom left), 
and National Library of South Africa (center right)

Scenes in the Company's Garden

Monuments and Fountains Inside the Company's Garden

Views In and Around the Company's Garden

The Great Synagogue

Unfortunately, our guide was ill-informed about too many of the sites we passed and seemed more intent on spouting his political views, bemoaning the removal of colonial-era statues and the renaming of various cities and other places. He was an older white man, and I fear his views may be typical of his generation of Capetonians.

As we drove around Table Mountain and along the spectacular rocky coast, however, our guide was very proud to show us where the wealthiest people in Cape Town live. Unfortunately, he gave us no information about mountain peaks that were the focus of a photo stop. I later learned they are called the Twelve Apostles and are part of the Table Mountain complex overlooking Camps Bay.

Table Mountain, the Rocky Coast, and the Twelve Apostles

Our final stop was one hour of free time at the Victoria and Alfred Waterfront, a complex of shops, restaurants, and entertainment venues that is the pride and joy of Cape Town. Several of us, however, were more than ready to leave our guide behind and end the excursion. Luckily, the shuttle bus was nearby, and we boarded it and returned to the ship. I have never complained about excursion guides on this cruise, but I joined my fellow guests in expressing my opinion about this one.

After that disappointing experience, I was very excited to attend the evening’s destination performance, “Under Our Table,” an inspiring concert by an amazing youth choir founded by a gentleman in his back yard to get kids off the streets. Members range in age from 16 to 21, and what beautiful voices they have.

A rousing performance by a local marimba band came next, and then the choir returned. The band accompanied the choir for a fabulous rendition of one of the songs from The Lion King. The standing ovation seemed to never end and was well deserved.

The Beautiful Choir in "Under Our Table"

The Marimba Band Was Joined by the Choir

Today marked the end of our fourth World Cruise segment, from Singapore to Cape Town. Up next is Cape Town to Greenwich, England.

Segment 4 - Singapore to Cape Town