Christmas in the Air on the Way Home

When I was a kid, I used to love getting up before the crack of dawn on Christmas morning so that I could see what Santa brought, but those days are long past. Santa was nowhere to be found when the alarm went off at 5:00 am so that Tim and I could get to Miami International Airport in time for our 7:45 am flight. Herbert graciously drove us to the airport, and we said our goodbyes and thank yous for a wonderful visit.

The terminal was busy at that hour, but we were able to check our bags and make it through security without much problem. Our concourse seemed to be miles away, but we had plenty of time and did not have to hurry.

As we finally started walking down Concourse J, I noticed words embedded in the terrazzo floor. Since our gate was at the very end of this very long concourse, I soon realized that the words were not random, and I became more intrigued the farther we walked. After arriving at our gate and leaving my bags with Tim, I wandered back to see what the words were all about.

The subject was the Everglades, the largest tropical wilderness east of the Mississippi River. I found the artist’s name and a dedication to Marjory Stoneman Douglas on the floor and did a little research when I returned home.

Foreverglades

I learned that this art installation is called Foreverglades and is artist Barbara Neijna’s homage to Douglas and her book, The Everglades: River of Grass. Foreverglades is an award-winning piece of art and one of the largest public art projects in the country. It includes not only passages from the book on two floors, but also 4,500 linear feet of photographs expressed in glass panels that range up to 60 feet long. Unfortunately, I totally missed that part of the installation since I was so focused on what was under my feet.

Tim and I finally boarded our plane and settled into our first-class seats, our Christmas present to each other. The plane was surprisingly full, and I was happy to be at the front of the plane. We enjoyed a tasty breakfast and chatted with the wonderful flight crew.

A Tasty Breakfast

Seated across the aisle from us was a nice couple with an adorable dog. I thought that United required pets to remain in their carriers, but this guy never got the message (or perhaps he was a service dog). He was incredibly well behaved (better than so many passengers), and I enjoyed watching him throughout the flight.

Waiting for Mom

Our flight arrived on time, and we hurried to our next gate to catch our Landline bus to Loveland. I had booked a Lyft ride in advance, not knowing if anyone would be working on Christmas Day. Luckily, our driver arrived on time, and we were soon home again after another amazing adventure.

Arriving in Denver - Almost Home

A Nochebuena Dinner

The plan for this morning was breakfast with Miguel, an old friend from my days in Miami. On the way, Herbert drove through Little Havana, Brickell, Downtown, and the Upper Eastside so I could see the changes that had taken place since I left Miami in 2006. I could hardly recognize the central core of the city.

We met Miguel at Jimmy’s Eastside Diner, a neighborhood hangout that remains a popular institution. It was great to catch up with Miguel and hear about what’s been going on with him and the historic districts that I used to regulate.

Tim, Sarah, Miguel, and Herbert

Since today was Christmas Eve, Herbert had decided to host a Nochebuena dinner at his home. For Cubans, Nochebuena is a time to get together with family, cook, and enjoy an evening meal. No one throws a dinner party like Herbert, and it was just like old times. Herbert always sets the most elegant table, and everything was done to perfection.

A Beautifully Set Table for a Wonderful Group of Friends

Tonight, he was excited to show off a set of porcelain sculpted hands, a gift from our friend Stephen. Created in the 1930s by Gio Ponti, a renowned Italian designer, the hands became the perfect holders for place cards and a wonderful addition to Herbert’s vast collection of mid-century art.

Herbert Thanking Stephen and Explaining the Design of the Hands

The champagne and cocktails were flowing, and the meal was excellent, but the best part of the evening was visiting with some of my old friends, as well as meeting new ones. I don’t believe I had seen Rolondo or Stephen in almost 15 years, so we had lots to talk about.

Old and New Friends - A Memorable Evening

Disembarking in Fort Lauderdale

It was still dark when Viking Neptune docked in Fort Lauderdale at 5:00 am. Port Everglades is a busy port, and we could see at least four other cruise ships from our balcony. Tim and I had decided to get up early, even though we could not disembark until 8:00 am.

Busy Port Everglades

Our ship was not cleared until almost 9:00 am, however, and passengers were crowded in the Living Room, awaiting the “all clear” sign. Although I was very sad to leave the ship on the one hand, I was impatient to get going on the other. Things flowed smoothly once we were finally cleared, however, and once ashore, we were able to reclaim our luggage and pass through immigration very quickly.

Tim and Everyone Else Waiting to Disembark

Our plan was to take an Uber to my friend Herbert’s house in Coral Gables, but neither of us had service on our phones. After deciding we’d have to stand in line for a cab, a limousine driver with whom we’d been talking said that he could drive us, since his passenger had been a no-show. That ride turned out to be a blessing, and we arrived at Herbert’s before 10:30 am.

Tim and I would find out the next day that our T-Mobile service had been suspended for non-payment! What? I always pay my bills! It turns out that the T-Mobile agent who had set up our auto-pay account when we purchased our phones must have entered our checking account number incorrectly. We never received a text message advising us of the suspension of service because we could not receive texts on the ship. After spending more than an hour at a T-Mobile store, everything was finally resolved, and our phones were working properly.

It was so nice to see Herbert again and to admire his wonderful house. He took us to lunch at the historic Biltmore Hotel, and we spent the rest of the day catching up.

Our Unplanned Stop in Nassau

I could have gone ashore in Nassau today, but I really had no desire to do so. Instead, Tim and I enjoyed a quiet day on the ship. We were docked next to the Norwegian Escape, and I can’t tell you how many of our passengers expressed relief that they were not on such a huge ship. I totally agree!

Docked in Nassau

Since tomorrow is disembarkation day, I spent much of the day packing. I also made it a point to photograph as many of my favorite crew members as I could find. Unfortunately, some were off today, so I didn’t catch everyone. I cannot say enough good things about the crew members on Viking ships. They really make the journey special, and they can never seem to do enough for us.

I don’t know if it’s true, but I heard that personality is the most important criteria in the selection of crew members for Viking. Apparently, most skills can be taught, but personality is innate and is what endears the crew to the passengers.

Nagesh, the Head Waiter in the World Café at breakfast and lunch, always looked out for us, whether arranging for a meeting with the Executive Chef, making sure we had our cappuccinos, or simply greeting us with a warm smile. I always looked forward to seeing him.

Nagesh and Sarah

I think Nola was Tim’s favorite in the World Café. Nola was the queen of the gelato station, which Tim frequented on a regular basis. Since he always requested caramel sauce on his ice cream, Nola dubbed him “Mr. Caramel.”

Nolu, Mr. Caramel, and His Dessert

Sheryl always seemed to find a coveted reservation for us at Chef’s Table, and Diego greeted us every morning with a big smile as we helped ourselves to his wide assortment of fruit.

Sheryl and Diego

There were so many wonderful waiters and waitresses in the various dining rooms, but I only captured photos of a few. Lisa and Abinash took good care of us in the World Café, while Dessa and Julio made our experiences at Chef’s Table even more special. Pallavi, the Head Waitress at Chef’s Table, also deserves a special mention.

Pallavi, Surrounded by Lisa, Abinash, Julio, and Dessa

Neptune’s officers were approachable and very gracious in our meetings with them. For example, Executive Chef Satheesh suggested how I might request my traditional Southern New Year’s Day dinner of black-eyed peas and collard greens on our upcoming world cruise. Chantelle, the Shore Excursion Manager, gave us valuable pointers when she met with us to talk about our world cruise.

Chantelle and Chef Satheesh

Last, but certainly not least, was Ronny, our room steward, whom I’ve talked about previously. Ronny seemed to anticipate our needs and wants and delivered everything with a smile. I enjoyed chatting with him in the hallway and hearing about his home country, Peru. His smile always made my day.

Ronny

The final sendoff on our last evening onboard was a glorious sunset as we sailed the Atlantic Ocean to Fort Lauderdale. It was spectacular!

WOW!

Only One More Stop - Fort Lauderdale

Another Change in Plans

This morning, I attended another lecture by Sue Stockton entitled, “Traveling Down the Longest Road on the Map.” I have always loved road trips, and I found her description of the Pan American Highway quite interesting. This highway stretches all the way from Alaska to Argentina, and I discovered that I’ve driven parts of it in Canada and the United States.

I Doubt I'll Ever Drive the Entire Highway

Captain Richard’s navigational update at noon began with an unexpected announcement. Tomorrow, we will be making an unscheduled stop in Nassau, Bahamas, due to a medical emergency. We will dock at 11:00 am and remain there until 3:00 pm. Although we will be able to get off the ship and explore Nassau on our own, there will be no shore excursions, which is to be expected. Our arrival in Fort Lauderdale remains unchanged.

The rough seas continued all day, but the sun did break through for a while today.

Tonight, we dined with Bonnie and Bill at the Chef’s Table. This was the first couple we met on our pre-cruise extension, and it so happens that they live in Cheyenne, Wyoming, just 45-minutes north of our home. The menu was California Cuisine – another winner!

Sarah, Bonnie, Bill, Tim, and Our Wonderful Waitress Dessa

Amuse Bouche, First Course, Granita, Main Course, Dessert

The Menu with Descriptions of Our Five Courses Pictured Above

Although Tim and I often retire to our stateroom after dinner, we decided to change things up tonight. We attended the Viking Farewell, and I was delighted when all crew members, not just officers, were invited on stage for a thank-you. The audience gave them a well-deserved standing ovation.

What an Incredible Crew!

Afterwards, Tim and I even stayed for a performance by the Viking Neptune Vocalists. We both commented how much we enjoyed their “Southern Sounds” concert celebrating music from the south.

Southern Sounds - Well Done!

We're On Our Way to Nassau

Into the Bermuda Triangle

We may not have made it to Bermuda today, but we did enter the Bermuda Triangle at 6:00 pm. Viking has been taking very good care of us on these many sea days, and I have continued to be quite content.

Viking held a Crew Emergency Drill this morning, and I found it very interesting to watch. I even learned where the “Crew Only” door near our stateroom goes – out to the lifeboats and lockers for the life vests. These drills also gave me an opportunity to see crew members who work behind the scenes as they walked to their muster stations.

All the Crew Participated in the Emergency Drill

Captain Richard’s navigational update included his explanation of the Bermuda Triangle, hoping to allay the fears of any guests who might be a bit apprehensive. He assured us that traveling through there is perfectly safe. To bolster this claim, he noted that Lloyd’s of London does not charge a premium for this passage. He ended with the pronouncement that tales about the Bermuda Triangle are simply an urban legend and a “load of poppycock.”

Unfortunately, the update also included an advisory that we would soon encounter rough seas once more. And we did! Oh well, we just roll with the waves.

Tim and I have been running into Kathy and Bill quite often. They are one of the couples who were with us on the pre-cruise extension, and it’s always nice to talk with them. We’ve enjoyed several meals together, including lunch today.

Bill and Kathy

Since we only have a few days left on Viking Neptune, Tim and I decided it was time for afternoon tea in the Wintergarden. The finger sandwiches and sweets were not only delicious, but pretty as well.

Afternoon Tea

Tonight’s menu in the World Café featured an Indian buffet. The presentation included a selection of spices that are typical of the cuisine. Although I’m not a huge fan of Indian food, I found that I enjoyed the various dishes I selected.

I Loved the Display of Indian Spices

Sailing into the Bermuda Triangle

The Fourth of Seven Sea Days

When Tim and I woke up, the ship was still rocking and rolling. However, we had sunny skies, which always makes things better. Alas, the sun only popped out occasionally, and the skies were overcast for much of the day. 

This morning, I attended an interesting lecture entitled "Grit and Resilience – Early Female Explorers.” Sue Stockdale, the first British woman to reach the North Pole, talked about two nineteenth century women who defied the norms of their generation by venturing all over the world. It was interesting that one of the women she discussed was Isabella Bird, with whom Tim and I are familiar, since she summitted Longs Peak in what is now Rocky Mountain National Park in 1873. 

Early Female Explorers Were Quite Brave

Captain Richard’s navigational update informed us that we are on a southwest course and that the weather in Bermuda is indeed awful. A bit of welcome news was that the current rough seas will start to moderate a bit. 

The ship’s constant motion has been difficult for passengers and crew alike. I learned that one guest had fallen and broken his hip and will spend the rest of the cruise in the medical center, with surgery to follow once we disembark in Fort Lauderdale. One of the waitresses also fell and hurt her knee and is on light duty. We must be so careful, even while standing, let alone walking. 

I admire the crew and how they are handling the conditions. I can’t imagine trying to clean, cook, pour beverages, or carry heavy trays while the ship is swaying so much. 

This experience is good practice for the crossings on our World Voyage. Just one year from today, on December 19, 2024, we will be embarking on our round-the-world cruise. It’s starting to become more real.

Just One Year to Go!

Bermuda Is Officially Off the Tracker - Onward to Fort Lauderdale

A Change in Plans

Last night was rough, but I don’t seem to mind the rocking and rolling while I’m sleeping. We woke up to even bigger waves this morning, and although the sun tried to peek out a few times, the skies were overcast for most of the day.

Our View this Morning

While at sea, Captain Richard provides a navigational update at noon. Today’s message was not a good one. Due to gale force winds and severe weather conditions around Bermuda, he announced that he had been forced to cancel this port, as have other ships due to call there.

Although I am disappointed, I totally understand and will just go with the flow. I do feel bad for those passengers who boarded in Lisbon, however. Although they did sign up for a transatlantic crossing, they will end up with a visit to only one port, on a rainy, foggy day at that.

Captain Richard reminded us that weather can be unforgiving and that we will continue to encounter very rough seas over the next two days. He informed us that the current waves are 13 feet high and will increase to 16 feet. It will prove to be interesting.

No Wonder We're Rocking and Rolling

A Brief Ray of Sunshine

Because of missing Bermuda, we now will have seven sea days in a row. I don’t think we’ll have that many in a row on our World Voyage.

It’s been interesting for me to compare how our ship is handling the rough seas as compared to the QE2, which I sailed on from New York to Bermuda many, many years ago. I don’t think the seas were any rougher on that trip, but I remember being on a massage table and hearing all the products fall to the floor one day. Viking Neptune seems much more stable, and nothing has fallen so far.

No Bermuda (#3) for Us

The Second of Four Sea Days

How nice to wake up to sun, puffy clouds, and blue skies this morning. What a change after yesterday’s storms. As we sail eastward, we are gaining an hour almost every day, a civilized way to deal with jet lag and so much nicer than flying across the ocean.

While Tim and I were in the World Café today, we saw another ship in this vast ocean we’re traversing. I need to get a the marine tracking app to help identify the ships we encounter.

We Are Not Alone in the Atlantic, Although It May Appear So at Times

Some veteran cruisers say that it is wise to take a cruise with multiple sea days before booking a world cruise to see if you will enjoy it. I already knew that I liked an occasional sea day, but I have been very content to have multiple ones in a row.

Since Viking bills itself as the “thinking man’s cruise,” there are always lectures on board. Unfortunately, many are not scheduled at convenient times for us, particularly the 6:30 pm one. Luckily, all lectures and port talks are recorded, and we can watch them on the TV in our stateroom. This is one way we have been occupying our time on days at sea. Most lectures are quite good, although I did fall asleep while watching one today.

Tim got a haircut and beard trim today while I watched a presentation on expedition cruises to see if I could get a few tips for the one we just booked. (Don’t worry, I’ll write about that one soon.)

Tim and I Pose in the Atrium in Front of One of the Many Christmas Trees

Tonight, we finally went to Manfredi’s Italian Restaurant for dinner. We were asked if we would like to join guests at a larger table, and we thought that would be nice. We sat with two women and had a very pleasant conversation.

My choices for dinner were Insalata Caprese, Linguine ai Gamberi, and Tiramisu Classico for dessert. Although there were complaints about the swordfish that two people ordered, my pasta with shrimp was quite good. I have never seen a shrimp so large.

Have You Ever Seen Such a Huge Shrimp?

We're Almost Halfway to Bermuda Now

The First of Four Sea Days

After leaving the Azores, we have four sea days in a row before we reach Bermuda. Today, the seas were rough, the sky was dark, and the rain was heavy. I still haven’t quite mastered the art of walking in a straight line while the ship is rocking, but I’m getting lots of practice.

Tim and I slept late but made it to the World Café before it closed. I think this venue is staying open later on sea days. Needing another cappuccino, we relocated to the Living Room, where they serve the best coffee on the ship. We have enjoyed many a cappuccino there since we’ve been on board.

An Excellent Cappuccino

Sea days can be as relaxing or busy as one desires. There are many lectures, workshops, games, and movies to keep anyone occupied. Mostly, we relaxed today.

Tonight, we returned to the Chef’s Table for the Asian Panorama menu. Inspired by the ingredients and unusual tastes of this vast continent, the menu featured combinations of the five fundamental tastes of Asian cuisine – umami, sweet, sour, salty, and bitter.

Each course was delicious, but I especially loved the lobster and chicken shu mai. I could have made an entire meal out of these soft, puffy dumplings. The yuzu crème brûlée was a perfect ending to a wonderful meal.

Amuse Bouche, First Course, Granita, Main Course, and Dessert

The Menu with Descriptions of Our Five Courses Pictured Above

It’s difficult to compare the offerings at Chef’s Table since I seem to enjoy all of them, but if I had to choose between the two Asian menus we’ve had so far, I’d have to give an edge to the Xiang menu. That one has been my favorite.

Our Journey Across the Atlantic To Date

The “Green Island” of the Azores

Astonishing Scenic Splendor:

Explore the stunning scenery for which the Azores are celebrated. You will drive with your guide to the western reaches of São Miguel, renowned for the many shades of green that drape its countryside and mountains. Drive up the slopes of the Sete Cidades massif, once a soaring volcano until an eruption in the 1440s blew off its summit. Pause at the Vista do Rei, the “view of kings,” for magnificent panoramas of the caldera. This crater, formed by the long-ago eruption, is today home to a trio of dark green-blue lakes, lush vegetation and the tiny village of Sete Cidades. Head into the caldera to explore, admiring lakeside views and colorful gardens of azaleas, hydrangeas and camellias. Next, continue to another volcanic crater to marvel at a deep-green lake, Lagoa de Santiago. Returning to your ship, enjoy a scenic drive through the spectacular mountain vistas of the Serra Devassa range.

This morning we docked in Ponta Delgada, which is located on São Miguel Island, the largest and most populous island in the Portuguese archipelago of the Azores.

Tim and I had high hopes for a rain-free day, but it was not to be. When we left the ship for our included excursion, the skies were overcast. Sadly, as we climbed the winding roads to the top of one of the island’s volcanos, fog and rain became our constant companions.

Once we reached the top, our bus didn’t even bother to stop at the famous Vista do Rei, since the fog completely obscured the view. Luckily, a bit later, we did get somewhat of a view of the two lakes and the village of Sete Cidades, which are in the center of the three-mile-wide volcanic crater. The blue and green lakes were mostly gray today.

Our View of the Twin Lakes

Today's View (top) vs. the Same View on a Sunny Day (bottom)
(Lower Photo Courtesy of Tripadvisor.com)

We then stopped for a short break in Sete Cidades. Here, many of us wandered into the little São Nicolau Church, with its tree-lined walkway decorated for Christmas. In town, I also noticed the colorful tiles above or adjacent to the doorways on many of the houses, as well as on the street signs. Portuguese tiles are beautiful.

São Nicolau Church

Colorful Tiles in Sete Cidades

Even in December, some flowers still graced the roadsides on the island. In fact, one of the mountain roads we took is known as the Hydrangea Highway. I can only imagine how gorgeous the drive must be when all the hydrangeas are in bloom. A few camelias and birds of paradise also added a bit of color to a dreary day.

I Was Not Expecting to See These Flowers in December

Taking photographs from a bus is always a challenge, but today, it was almost impossible, with rain drops and sheets of rain obscuring the view. I’ve included a few of these images, however, just so I can remember the black and white cows grazing on the brilliant green grass. Walls of volcanic rock enclosed their pastures.

Black and White Cows Dot the Brilliant Green Landscape

Despite the weather, Tim and I just went with the flow and enjoyed the ride. Our guide made our tour fun, as he added a dose of humor to his commentary. We learned so much about the Azores from him. Who knew that the Azores are such a major producer of milk and cheese.

We passed by the downtown area on our way back to our ship, and our guide pointed out several of the most significant structures, including Forte de São Brás, which was constructed beginning in 1552 to defend the area against frequent pirate raids.

Forte de São Brás

Buildings Along the Waterfront

Tonight was the Explorers’ Society reception. Here the staff welcomed guests who had sailed with Viking before to mark the occasion with a celebratory toast.

Explorers’ Society Reception

Our Journey from Lisbon to Ponta Delgada in the Atlantic Ocean