Day 43 – Napier, New Zealand

Tim and I had a relaxing morning today, since we were not scheduled to arrive in Napier until 1:00 pm. I was especially looking forward to visiting New Zealand’s Art Deco capital and seeing how it might compare to Miami Beach’s Art Deco district.

Because I worked as Miami’s historic preservation officer for 25 years, many people assume that I dealt with the Art Deco district. That, however, was not the case. In fact, I originally made that mistake myself. When I accepted the job in Miami and arrived there sight unseen, I, too, assumed that I would be preserving the Art Deco buildings. Not! I quickly found out that Miami and Miami Beach, where the Art Deco district is located, are separate municipalities. Oh well, I came to love the historic architecture in Miami and was also able to serve on the Miami Beach Historic Preservation Board since I lived in Miami Beach.

As soon as our ship docked in Napier, Tim and I caught the shuttle into town. My excursion was not until later in the day, and I wanted to have time to walk around, take photos, and check out the city’s version of Art Deco.

Napier’s extensive collection of Art Deco architecture is a result of the city’s reconstruction following a devastating earthquake in 1931. The city collectively agreed to rebuild in the Art Deco style for several reasons. Art Deco was considered the most modern and fashionable architectural style at the time, and it symbolized progress and forward-thinking. This resonated with a city rebuilding from disaster. In addition, the use of reinforced concrete, which was well-suited to Art Deco design, was a way to build earthquake-resistant structures.

Five of the Most Architecturally Significant Art Deco Buildings in Napier

Streetscapes of Art Deco Buildings Characterize Napier

The Former Bank of New Zealand Building Incorporated Māori Patterns in the Details

Napier Has Interesting and Quirky Artwork Throughout the City

There Are Also Beautiful Parks and Gardens Along the Waterfront

I returned to the ship in time for my optional excursion, “Hawke’s Bay Express,” described this way:

Board a stylish road train and be transported back in time to Napier’s romantic and opulent art deco era. The Hawke’s Bay Express features velvet-covered cushioned seats and spacious carriage benches, tall windows, polished wooden floors and tasseled curtains. With the bell ringing and the whistle blowing, head out along scenic Marine Parade and travel into the heart of Napier, passing some of the world’s most stunning examples of art deco architecture, including the impressive facade of the National Tobacco Building. The train will continue over Bluff Hill, an area featuring early settlers’ homes, and down to the old port village in the Ahuriri district. The onboard commentary includes magical descriptions of New Zealand culture, including Māori legends.

The Hawke’s Bay Express is a custom designed road train that offers tours through the city of Napier. We passed many of the buildings that Tim and I had walked by earlier, and Will, the owner and builder of the train, explained the background and significance of these sites. We also covered a wider area than I had traveled by earlier, and we saw many more examples of the city’s Art Deco architecture.

Will and the Hawke's Bay Express

More Examples of Napier's Beautiful Architecture

Will was very knowledgeable about the city and its history, and it was evident that he enjoyed sharing it with us. After leaving the downtown area and its concentration of Art Deco buildings, we climbed the bluff and saw many of the early houses that had not been touched by the earthquake.

After descending the hills, we passed by the most well-known Art Deco structure in Napier, the former National Tobacco Company building, and we then stopped at the former Custom House for a fascinating history lesson about Napier before and after the hurricane.

National Tobacco Company Building

Custom House

During our tour, we passed a few of the sea walls and murals that guest lecturer Suzanne Rieger talked about last night. This rise of public art in Napier is a relatively new development and is designed to foster a deeper connection between the community and the environment. Many of the murals feature marine life and contain a message about our oceans. She explained that this public art movement has brought a dynamic energy to the city, balancing historic architecture with modern artistic expression.

A Few Sea Walls and Murals

When we returned to our ship, we were greeted by a display of gorgeous classic cars, courtesy of the Vintage Car Club of Hawke’s Bay. The Twin City Stompers, a Dixieland jazz band, provided the entertainment. What fun, and how appropriate for our visit to Napier!

The Vintage Cars Had Lots of Admirers

This evening, the culinary team treated us again with a Fresh Fish Station, featuring fish that the chef had acquired earlier this afternoon. I tried a new fish for me, which I believe was kingklip, and it was quite good.

Fresh Fish Station

A Lovely Ending to a Lovely Day