Day 43 – Napier, New Zealand

Tim and I had a relaxing morning today, since we were not scheduled to arrive in Napier until 1:00 pm. I was especially looking forward to visiting New Zealand’s Art Deco capital and seeing how it might compare to Miami Beach’s Art Deco district.

Because I worked as Miami’s historic preservation officer for 25 years, many people assume that I dealt with the Art Deco district. That, however, was not the case. In fact, I originally made that mistake myself. When I accepted the job in Miami and arrived there sight unseen, I, too, assumed that I would be preserving the Art Deco buildings. Not! I quickly found out that Miami and Miami Beach, where the Art Deco district is located, are separate municipalities. Oh well, I came to love the historic architecture in Miami and was also able to serve on the Miami Beach Historic Preservation Board since I lived in Miami Beach.

As soon as our ship docked in Napier, Tim and I caught the shuttle into town. My excursion was not until later in the day, and I wanted to have time to walk around, take photos, and check out the city’s version of Art Deco.

Napier’s extensive collection of Art Deco architecture is a result of the city’s reconstruction following a devastating earthquake in 1931. The city collectively agreed to rebuild in the Art Deco style for several reasons. Art Deco was considered the most modern and fashionable architectural style at the time, and it symbolized progress and forward-thinking. This resonated with a city rebuilding from disaster. In addition, the use of reinforced concrete, which was well-suited to Art Deco design, was a way to build earthquake-resistant structures.

Five of the Most Architecturally Significant Art Deco Buildings in Napier

Streetscapes of Art Deco Buildings Characterize Napier

The Former Bank of New Zealand Building Incorporated Māori Patterns in the Details

Napier Has Interesting and Quirky Artwork Throughout the City

There Are Also Beautiful Parks and Gardens Along the Waterfront

I returned to the ship in time for my optional excursion, “Hawke’s Bay Express,” described this way:

Board a stylish road train and be transported back in time to Napier’s romantic and opulent art deco era. The Hawke’s Bay Express features velvet-covered cushioned seats and spacious carriage benches, tall windows, polished wooden floors and tasseled curtains. With the bell ringing and the whistle blowing, head out along scenic Marine Parade and travel into the heart of Napier, passing some of the world’s most stunning examples of art deco architecture, including the impressive facade of the National Tobacco Building. The train will continue over Bluff Hill, an area featuring early settlers’ homes, and down to the old port village in the Ahuriri district. The onboard commentary includes magical descriptions of New Zealand culture, including Māori legends.

The Hawke’s Bay Express is a custom designed road train that offers tours through the city of Napier. We passed many of the buildings that Tim and I had walked by earlier, and Will, the owner and builder of the train, explained the background and significance of these sites. We also covered a wider area than I had traveled by earlier, and we saw many more examples of the city’s Art Deco architecture.

Will and the Hawke's Bay Express

More Examples of Napier's Beautiful Architecture

Will was very knowledgeable about the city and its history, and it was evident that he enjoyed sharing it with us. After leaving the downtown area and its concentration of Art Deco buildings, we climbed the bluff and saw many of the early houses that had not been touched by the earthquake.

After descending the hills, we passed by the most well-known Art Deco structure in Napier, the former National Tobacco Company building, and we then stopped at the former Custom House for a fascinating history lesson about Napier before and after the hurricane.

National Tobacco Company Building

Custom House

During our tour, we passed a few of the sea walls and murals that guest lecturer Suzanne Rieger talked about last night. This rise of public art in Napier is a relatively new development and is designed to foster a deeper connection between the community and the environment. Many of the murals feature marine life and contain a message about our oceans. She explained that this public art movement has brought a dynamic energy to the city, balancing historic architecture with modern artistic expression.

A Few Sea Walls and Murals

When we returned to our ship, we were greeted by a display of gorgeous classic cars, courtesy of the Vintage Car Club of Hawke’s Bay. The Twin City Stompers, a Dixieland jazz band, provided the entertainment. What fun, and how appropriate for our visit to Napier!

The Vintage Cars Had Lots of Admirers

This evening, the culinary team treated us again with a Fresh Fish Station, featuring fish that the chef had acquired earlier this afternoon. I tried a new fish for me, which I believe was kingklip, and it was quite good.

Fresh Fish Station

A Lovely Ending to a Lovely Day

Day 42 – Tauranga, Rotorua, New Zealand

We sailed into Tauranga Harbor on another beautiful morning, passing by Mt. Maunganui, an extinct volcano, on the way. Tauranga is within the Bay of Plenty region on New Zealand's North Island. The Bay of Plenty region is known for its beautiful beaches, abundant kiwifruit, and geothermal wonders.

Mt. Maunganui

Tim and I had an early morning, and we set out on the included excursion, “Scenic Bay of Plenty.” This was the description:

Take in the beautiful scenery of the Bay of Plenty as you discover more about the kiwifruit capital of the world. Meet your guide and board your motor coach as you set off through Tauranga, crossing the city’s harbor to Te Puke. Pronounced “tay-pookey,” this is New Zealand’s premier region for the production of the nation’s namesake fruit. During your panoramic ride, you will learn more about the orchards that pepper the surrounding landscape. At a local village community hall, enjoy refreshments and a taste of locally picked kiwi, along with free time to browse for kiwi-inspired products and mementos at a boutique marketplace. Members of the local Māori tribe will welcome guests, then provide entertaining insight into their culture. Reboard your coach for a drive along Marine Parade, with panoramic views over Ocean Beach and the Bay of Plenty, before arriving back at your ship.

As we drove through Tauranga, we learned that the Port of Tauranga is New Zealand's largest port by volume of cargo and New Zealand's international freight gateway. That was surprising for such a relatively small city of just over 150,000.

We headed south and soon passed fields of maize, or corn. Apparently, almost anything can grow in the Bay of Plenty, due to its excellent climate. Someone asked later if the area had maize mazes, and our guide replied in the affirmative.

Angela, our excellent driver-guide, pointed out and described the many sights we passed along the way. After returning to the ship, however, I wanted more information about some of these places, and I had great fun going down several rabbit holes as I did a bit of research. I’ve included some of what I learned in the following descriptions.

The Māori arrived in the Bay of Plenty in the thirteenth century, and we passed several contemporary Māori buildings. Trees obscured the Tuhourangi Marae, but the gateway was visible from the road. Immediately across the road was the Te Matai School and its arched entrance. This memorial gateway is embellished with Māori carvings and is inscribed with the names of Māori soldiers killed in both world wars.

Just down the road, we passed the Te Puke Rohe Mihingare Church. Here, the Māori Anglican congregation occupies an early mission church, but a traditional Māori gateway was added later.

Marae Gateway, War Memorial Gateway, and Maori Anglican Church

The focus of our excursion soon turned to kiwifruit, and we drove through Te Puke, known as the kiwifruit capital of the world. 

Before today’s tour, I knew virtually nothing about kiwifruit. When our guide started pointing out kiwi orchards, I couldn’t figure out what she was looking at. It wasn’t until we turned down a lovely, narrow lane, lined with orchards, that I finally realized that kiwi do not grow on trees, but vines. Who knew? Certainly, not I!

Te Puke, Kiwifruit Capital of the World

Angela gave us a lesson about kiwifruit and pointed out that green kiwifruit grow on flat trellises, while the gold variety grows on teepee trellises.

Green Kiwifruit Grow on Flat Trellises

Gold Kiwifruit Grow on Teepee Trellises

To protect the vines from the wind, many kiwi orchards are enclosed by extremely tall shelter belts comprised of fast-growing trees or hedges. Shade cloths are also used. Angela was an expert on the subject since she at one time worked in the kiwi orchards. Her personal stories added so much to her commentary.

Shade Cloths (left) and Shelter Belts (right) Protect Kiwifruit from the Wind

We stopped at the Paengaroa Community Hall for tea and cookies and were able to sample both green and gold kiwis. I had never tasted the gold variety, which was much sweeter, and it is now my favorite. Here, we learned more about kiwi production in New Zealand and how it has evolved over the years.

A Stop All About Kiwifruit

We were also treated to a dance performance by members of a local Māori tribe. The highlight was the haka, the traditional war dance of the Māori. Haka is a fierce display of a tribe's pride, strength, and unity, and it was quite impressive.

Māori Dance Performance

As we drove back to our ship, we passed a large-scale sculpture that Angela called a jungle gym. I later found out that this sculpture was created by renowned New Zealand artist Regan Gentry.

Bound Around

Entitled Bound Around, it was constructed from roadside safety guard rails and repurposed wood. I thought the artist’s description of his inspiration behind this piece was quite interesting:

When I originally stood on the site I could see the hills in the Papamoa Regional Park behind and could visualise where villages had once been. I wanted the sculpture to have a connection with the historic ‘Te Rae O Papamoa’, which was a massive historic pā complex that once housed 5,000 Māori in pre-colonial times. The pā sculpture formed in my head. The rings loosely mimic the landform patterns of a pā site or the contour lines of an imagined mountain.

We soon passed the Papamoa Hills, and I was able to catch a glimpse of his inspiration. I learned that Papamoa Hills have been preserved as a cultural heritage park with numerous archeological features and a large concentration of pā sites. A pā was a fortified Māori stronghold, typically built on a hilltop, that provided a place of refuge during times of danger or war. The Papamoa Hills are among the most significant archeological and cultural landscapes in New Zealand, recording the evolution of this area from sometime after the arrival of the first settlers to 1700.

The Papamoa Hills

Once back in Tauranga, Angela pointed out an interesting townhouse complex, constructed entirely of shipping containers. Designer Chris Brauchli of Tauranga's Earthcube Design has said that his company is the only one to ever combine a luxury home with a brand-new shipping container, which is a uni-body of amazing strength.

Luxury Townhouses Built from Shipping Containers

Our excursion today was another one that totally exceeded my expectations. I had no clue that a tour focused on learning about kiwifruit could be so interesting. It was another great day.

Tonight, Tim and I attended the first presentation by one of our new guest lecturers. Suzanne Rieger talked about “Napier – The Capital City of Art Deco,” which we will visit tomorrow. I learned more about this city and am really looking forward to stopping there.

The History of the Art Deco Capital of New Zealand - Napier 

We ended the evening with A Taste of New Zealand, another culinary event just for us. Somehow, I totally neglected to take any photos.

Day 41 – Auckland, New Zealand

On another beautiful morning, Viking Sky sailed into Auckland, New Zealand’s cultural capital, and docked directly on the edge of downtown. It’s always so nice to be able to walk off the ship and not have to shuttle into town.

Welcome to Auckland - We'll Dock Next to the White Building on the Right

Once again, Tim and I embarked on the included tour, “Highlights of Auckland,” to get an overview of this beautiful city. Here’s the description:

Enjoy a panoramic drive of Auckland’s major sights and visit the Auckland Museum to learn about Māori culture. Meet your guide at the pier and embark on a narrated drive, passing many of the city’s landmarks. Amid its bustling streets, modern skyscrapers stand beside restored Victorian-era buildings, coexisting in perfect harmony. In the charming suburb of Parnell, pass quaint colonial-style shops. By the Central Business District lies the Auckland Domain, the city’s largest park. Within its 75-hectare grounds is the Auckland Museum, home to the world’s largest collection of Māori and Polynesian artifacts, including an 82-foot-long Māori canoe carved from a single tree. Here, you will have time to explore the museum’s exhibits on your own, and pay your respects at the War Memorial, located just outside. Afterward, return to your awaiting ship.

We drove along the waterfront and then climbed a hill to reach the Michael Joseph Savage Memorial, which honors New Zealand’s first Labour prime minister with a tall obelisk. The gardens were lovely, and the location provided us with views towards downtown Auckland.

Michael Joseph Savage Memorial

Sarah and the Auckland Skyline

We then drove through the hills of Parnell, Auckland’s oldest suburb, passing by scores of Victorian-era buildings. Our driver-guide pointed out several historic landmarks, including the city’s oldest Catholic and Anglican churches, but I was unable to capture any usable photos from the bus windows. 

Our destination was the Auckland Museum, located on one of Auckland’s many hills, with dramatic views in all directions. Originally known as the Auckland War Memorial Museum, this beautiful, neoclassical building, was completed in 1929. Today, the museum is a cultural center that showcases the diverse stories of New Zealand.

An Impressive Neoclassical Museum Building

Tim and I began our exploration in the Stories of Auckland gallery. Although I don’t always embrace digital exhibits, I was drawn to the monumental installation entitled “You Are Here,” an audio-visual experience that offers an immersive introduction to how Auckland has changed over time. Here, I could “journey through time and space,” starting with the emergence of the landscape, to putting down roots, to building colonial Auckland, and finally to the emergence of the modern city.

"You Are Here" Audio-Visual Installation

Because of my growing interest in Māori culture, I wanted to spend time in the Māori Court, located at the heart of the museum. The exhibits here were impressive and featured such items as the last great war canoe used in battle, a storehouse, portraits, carvings, and everyday objects once used for living, hunting, and fishing. Together, they offered a holistic presentation of Māori life.

Exhibits in the Māori Court

Tim and I were in awe when we removed our shoes and entered Hotunui, an ancestral meeting house of the Ngāti Maru people. The Māori consider these houses to be representations of ancestors, and they are highly regarded. Photos were not permitted inside, and everyone who entered behaved respectfully, simply admiring the intricate carvings and weavings.

The Exterior of Hotunui

We quickly walked through the remainder of the museum, passing through the Māori Natural History and Origins galleries. The upper level is devoted to War and Remembrance, and in the World War II Hall of Memories, Tim discovered the Cenotaph, a biographical, online database of New Zealand veterans who served in wars and conflicts. Here, Tim was able to find the records for Claude William Burchett, one of his relatives.

This Display Is Probably Our Only Sighting of the Kiwi, New Zealand's National Bird

Tim Found a Relative in the Online Cenotaph

In Addition to the Exhibits, I Also Admired the Architecture of the Building

We were able to exit the motorcoach in the middle of downtown Auckland, and we walked down Queen Street to our ship, admiring the many historic buildings along the way. My favorites were the Civic Theater, an Art Deco atmospheric theater completed in 1929, and the Ferry Building, an English Baroque “handsome pile,” as it was called when it was built in 1912.

A Few of Downtown Auckland's Historic Buildings

Civic Theater (left) and Ferry Building (right)

Auckland is a beautiful, friendly, clean, and safe city, and both Tim and I fell in love with it, as did most of the other passengers we talked with. Many of us agreed that we could live here.

This early evening’s sail away was one of the best to date, as Waitematā Harbor was filled with racing yachts, living up to Auckland’s nickname, “City of Sails.” Auckland has hosted three America’s Cup challenges, and some of those contenders may have been on the water today.

A Few of the Racing Yachts in the Harbor

A new group of guest lecturers boarded Viking Sky today, and we attended Suzanne Rieger’s talk on “The Geothermal Wonderland of Rotorua,” where we will be stopping tomorrow. Tim and I won’t be going on that tour, but it was interesting to hear what we’ll be missing.

The Geothermal Wonders of Rotorua

After a wonderful day in Auckland, the culinary team treated us to A Taste of China, celebrating the Chinese New Year and the Year of the Snake. The display even featured two carved watermelon snakes. Amazing! The food was also excellent.

A Taste of China, the Year of the Snake

Day 40 – Waitangi, Bay of Islands, New Zealand

It seemed very fitting that our first port in New Zealand was the site of this country’s most significant historic event. Viking Sky anchored in the Bay of Islands in the North Island of New Zealand, and we tendered ashore this morning to Waitangi. Waitangi was the site where the Māori chiefs and representatives of the British Crown assembled to sign the Treaty of Waitangi in 1840. This agreement is New Zealand’s founding document and established and guided the relationship between these two entities.

Tim and I were up early on this gorgeous day, with temperatures in the 70s, to board our motorcoach for the included tour, “Bay of Islands Panorama,” which was described this way:

View the historic Kerikeri Basin, admire Rainbow Falls and view the ornate Hundertwasser public bathrooms. Leaving Waitangi, you will travel through the countryside past lush citrus fruit orchards and russet-colored fields to Kerikeri. Here, you will enjoy a short stop at the picturesque Kerikeri Basin, New Zealand’s most historic site and home to the country’s oldest buildings, dating back to the early 1800s: the wooden Kemp House and the stone-constructed Stone Store. You will have the opportunity to photograph these historic buildings before a short drive takes you to the beautiful Rainbow Falls waterfall, along the Kerikeri River. Your tour concludes with a scenic drive via the quaint town of Kawakawa, home to the quirky public bathrooms designed by world-famous artist Friedensreich Hundertwasser. This iconic work of art even includes a living tree that grows through the center of its stalls.

As we travelled into the Bay of Islands, we passed green fields with cows and a few sheep grazing, and we learned that the price of wool has caused a drop in the sheep population. The area is known for Manuka honey and orchards, but we were too early for kiwi and citrus season, which begins in April. Our driver-guide also told us that the tranquility of the Bay of Islands has led to a population boom, especially among retirees, resulting in farms are being replaced by new housing.

Lovely Farms, Fields, and Cows

We soon arrived at Kerikeri Basin and had less than 15 minutes to view two of the country’s oldest surviving buildings – The Stone Store and Kemp House. I later learned that this site was known as the Kerikeri Mission Station and was one of the first places in New Zealand where Māori invited visitors to live among them. Heritage New Zealand described these buildings this way:

Established in 1819 by the Church Missionary Society (CMS) . . ., Kerikeri Mission Station was a junction of early Māori-Pākehā contact and a key site leading up to the Te Tiriti o Waitangi [Treaty of Waitangi].The Stone Store was very much built for the long haul, using local basalt plus Sydney sandstone. Open since 1836, this Georgian warehouse has been used as a trading post, library, barracks, school, general store, post office and dairy.Aotearoa New Zealand’s oldest surviving building, Kemp House (1822), is a timber foil to its stone neighbour. Built from native timbers by missionary carpenters and Māori sawyers, it eventually became the Kemp family digs.

The Stone House (left) and Kemp House (right)

Kerikeri Mission Station

Māori Waka or Canoe

From there, we drove to the impressive Rainbow Falls, said to be the most spectacular waterfall in the area. The falls lived up to its name once we visited the second viewpoint, where we glimpsed a rainbow in the pool below.

Rainbow Falls and a Rainbow

Sarah and Tim at Rainbow Falls

We encountered a long road construction delay on the drive to our next destination, the town of Kawakawa. We passed by the Bay of Islands Vintage Railway, the oldest railway line in New Zealand and the only one that runs down the middle of a state highway.

I Love Heritage Railways

The main attraction in Kawakawa, however, was the Te Hononga Hundertwasser Memorial Park, home to the internationally significant Hundertwasser Public Toilets. Created in 1999 by Austrian artist Friedensreich Hundertwasser, this toilet block building was the last structure he designed and built before his death in 1999. It is also his only building in the southern hemisphere. Somehow, I totally missed seeing the famous toilets, but I was charmed by the building itself and all its quirky features.

Te Hononga Hundertwasser Memorial Park

Building Details

When we returned to the pier, Tim joined me for a walk. I have become very interested in Māori culture and wanted to see the Waitangi Marae, or Te Tii Marae. According to Wikipedia, a marae “is a place where the culture can be celebrated, where the Māori language can be spoken, where intertribal obligations can be met, where customs can be explored and debated, where family occasions such as birthdays can be held, and where important ceremonies, such as welcoming visitors or farewelling the dead, can be performed.”

Entrance to the Waitangi Marae

The marae was under construction, but we were able to walk to the adjacent field and admire the totem pole-like carvings, known as pou or pouwhenua. We learned that this location is known as Tou Rangatira, or Seat of the Nation, which was designated for the purpose of framing laws, preserving peace, and regulating trade. It was here that Māori chiefs assembled to give mana to the Treaty of Waitangi before its formal signing at the Waitangi Treaty Grounds. Mana is a Māori word that means prestige, authority, power, influence, status, spiritual power, charisma, and more.

Tou Rangatira, or Seat of the Nation

The Waitangi Treaty Grounds were nearby, and I wanted to see if the original Treaty House was still standing. While Tim returned to the ship, I continued onward. I walked into the main entrance and discovered that the Waitangi Treaty Grounds encompasses a museum, heritage buildings, a waka, and cultural performances. The entrance fee was 70 NZD. Although I am sure I would have enjoyed the site, I just couldn't justify the price for an abbreviated visit.

Waitangi Treaty Grounds

Instead, I walked back to the pier and caught the next tender back to the ship.