Day 90 – Mombasa, Kenya

Viking Sky arrived this morning in Kenya, our first port on the African mainland. It was a beautiful sail-in, and we were even greeted by a full rainbow as we docked in Mombasa, Kenya’s chief port. Mombasa is a melting pot of traditions due to its history as a key port on the Indian Ocean since the fourteenth century.

A Beautiful Sail-in and An Amazing Rainbow

As we disembarked, we were met by a group of dancers, a contingent of reporters and photographers, and the friendliest tourism representatives we’ve encountered so far. We were offered a green coconut with a straw to sip the coconut water, a common and culturally significant gesture of welcome.

Welcome to Mombasa

Tim and I boarded our motorcoach for our included excursion, “Mombasa Highlights.” This was the description:

Explore Mombasa during a panoramic drive and visit the historic Fort Jesus. Embark your motor coach with your guide and set out into the former capital of British East Africa. Gain a deeper understanding of the city’s rich history as you pass by several important landmarks. You will see the Mombasa Terminus, the modern railway station whose concentric circles and central tower were designed to represent an ocean ripple. Pass under the symbolic metal elephant tusk sculptures that cross bustling Moi Avenue; these four tusks were built in 1952 to commemorate Queen Elizabeth II’s visit and form the letter “M” for Mombasa. Cap your tour at the well-preserved Fort Jesus, a 16th-century fortress built by the Portuguese. Admire this UNESCO World Heritage Site and learn how it was designed to withstand cannon fire before returning to your ship.

Our first stop was the Mombasa Tusks, one of the most prominent landmarks in the city. Constructed by the British colonial administration, the giant elephant tusks were erected in honor of the historical visit to Kenya by Queen Elizabeth II in 1952. At the time of her visit, however, she was Princess Elizabeth. It was during this visit to Kenya that she learned of her father’s death and began her reign as queen. The elephant tusks were originally made of wood but were recreated in aluminum in 1956 in the shape of the letter “M.”

Mombasa Tusks

We drove through the city to reach the southern waterfront that provides a panoramic view of the Indian Ocean and the ships sailing in and out of Mombasa Port. Although the idea behind this stop was to see the ferries and the ancient baobab trees, I was just as interested in the waterfront park and some of the structures there. Therefore, I did a little research as I was writing this post.

I learned that Mama Ngina Waterfront Park is the first public landscaped waterfront in Kenya. The park includes a waterfront promenade, public open plazas and squares, cultural center, amphitheater, and the historic baobab park. The design of buildings and landscape reflects the traditional Swahili vernacular style architecture, including Swahili style pigeon towers that serve as focal points and create a sense of place. Market stalls and kiosks cater to small-scale businesses and food outlets.

Mama Ngina Waterfront Park

It is believed that many of the earliest inhabitants along this waterfront who were killed in the wars that were fought for the control of Mombasa Island were buried in unmarked graves under the 400-year-old baobab trees. During the redevelopment of the park, archeologists found ruins of the early settlements, and these will be preserved and displayed at the Cultural Center.

I was also curious about the sign here that read “Mombasa Raha” and learned that it means “Mombasa Joy” in Swahili. I have read that this beautiful phrase captures the unique essence or vibe of Mombasa — its rich culture, coastal beauty, and vibrant atmosphere.

Our next stop was Fort Jesus, which was built by the Portuguese in 1593-1596 to protect the port of Mombasa. The fort is one of the most outstanding and well-preserved examples of a sixteenth Portuguese military fortification and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The fort was constructed to prevent the Turks from creating a base in East Africa along the trade route between Africa and India.

Fort Jesus

Fort Jesus was the first successful attempt by Western powers to rule the Indian Ocean trade routes, which, until then, had remained under Eastern influence. The design of the fort, with its proportions, imposing walls, and five bastions, reflects the military architectural style of the Renaissance.

Fort Jesus

We toured the fort, including the Hall of the Mazrui and the room where Portuguese wall paintings were discovered. I must admit, however, that my favorite attraction at the fort was the cats, especially the calico kitty!

Hall of the Mazrui at Fort Jesus

Building with Portuguese Wall Paintings

Kitties!

Despite the intense heat, I joined our group for a walking tour of the Old Town of Mombasa, located north of the fort. Historic architecture trumped the heat for me. We walked through a maze of narrow streets and alleys lined by houses, shops, and mosques. Buildings were mostly Swahili in style, although others blended African, Arabic, and European influences.

Many of the traditional buildings featured carved balconies on the second story, a few of which were screened for privacy. Some buildings had beautifully decorated wooden doors that reflected Arabic and Indian influences in their design.

We passed one of the oldest hotels in Mombasa, one of the oldest mosques still in use, the old post office, and the old port. Photos were not permitted at the port, however. Photos of all government facilities and officials are prohibited in Mombasa.

A Mosque and Buildings in Old Town Mombasa

More Buildings in Old Town Mombasa

We stopped at the local fish market, where the men showed off their catch, and then made our way back to the bus on another street lined with even more interesting buildings. Sadly, the most beautiful one was badly deteriorated and in desperate need of rehabilitation.

The Fish Market

A Few of My Favorite Buildings, and a Carved Door, in Old Town Mombasa

On our way to the next stop, we drove through much of Mombasa and saw a wide variety of architecture. A Colonial-era hotel, Catholic church, Hindu temple, lighthouse, and rows of commercial blocks stood out among the lowliest shacks.

Castle Royal Hotel, Holy Ghost Cathedral, Ras Serani Lighthouse, BAPS Shri Swaminarayan Mandir,
and a Typical Downtown Commercial Block

Our final stop was the Akamba Handicraft Village, where we were able to walk through the property and see the local artisans at work. These men, who were creating the most amazing carvings with only the most basic tools, were so proud of their artworks, as well they should be. Everyone was happy to show us what they were working on and even pose with their carvings. There were no female carvers, but I did glimpse a few women who were polishing the finished products.

A Few of the Artisans at Akamba Handicraft Village

So Many Talented and Friendly Artisans

The Village is a cooperative where the artworks are sold in a showroom for fixed prices. There is no negotiating there. The cooperative also has global clients. The artisans receive 80 percent of the sales, while the cooperative retains the remaining 20 percent.

A Small Sample of the Finished Products for Sale

The visit here was fascinating, and although some may have viewed it as simply a shopping opportunity, I found it to be much more. Interacting with the local craftspeople was very rewarding, and I was so happy to see that these traditional crafts are being preserved.

Although I enjoyed our tour and all the various stops we made, it was difficult to witness the extreme poverty and living conditions of so many of the people here as we drove through the city. The contrast between some of the newer, walled-in high-rise buildings with the adjacent, makeshift shacks was startling. I decided not to include photos of this type of housing. Despite the challenges that so many residents face, every person we encountered was smiling, friendly, and welcoming.

Tim and I were completely drained after returning to the ship, both from the extreme heat and all that we saw. All I wanted was a refreshing shower, a quick dinner, and sleep.