Home Again

I had less than a three-hour drive today, so I didn’t rush to get going. US 34 was mostly a very good drive, despite a slowdown caused by a lineup of trucks for part of the way.

I arrived in Fort Morgan, Colorado, where Time grew up and stopped to say a quick “hello” to Chris, my sister-in-law. She was at work, so our visit was brief, but it was so nice to see her again.

When I reached Greeley, Colorado, I stopped to see Chris’s twin sister Cathy, another sister-in-law. Cathy was also working, so we only had a short time to chat. I enjoyed seeing these lovely women again.

My First Glimpse of My Beloved Snow-Capped Rocky Mountains

Before long, I pulled into our garage and ended my trip. It was especially nice to see Tim again. I had really missed him.

Final Tally - 3,528.4 Miles

Now, it’s time to unpack, do laundry, and get caught up on everything that’s been going on while I’ve been away.

From Another Fort to Tacos

The breakfast room was full this morning with all the folks who were in town for graduation ceremonies. In talking with several people, I was surprised to learn how many relatives, some of whom seemed to be quite distant, chose to spend a weekend to attend a ceremony.

I drove through town, got gas, and found my way to US 34. Google Maps kept insisting that I get on the interstate, but I just ignored her and enjoyed a much more pleasant drive. It rained for much of the morning, sometimes heavy at times, but nothing like yesterday.

My only destination today was Fort Kearney State Historical Park, an important symbol of westward expansion and development. This was the first fort built to protect travelers on the Oregon and California Trails. It also became a Pony Express station and was the home of the Pawnee Scouts.

Fort Kearny State Historical Park

What I thought would be a relatively quick stop lasted way longer than I would have guessed. I was not impressed with the exhibits, which I found to be very old-fashioned with language that is not respectful today, but my visit quickly morphed into something special.

Soon after I asked the staff for the National Park Service trail stamps, the superintendent, Gene Hunt, came out with an old box of all kinds of stamps. I doubt those had seen the light of day for years. He explained the significance of each one, most of which were anniversary stamps, and said that I was taking him down memory lane.

Gene Hunt and His Box of Stamps

Mr. Hunt then walked me back through the exhibits and explained many of them to me. He showed me photos and talked about how he had established relationships with descendants of the Pawnee Scouts, who had served as military allies at Fort Kearny, and how proud he was to have celebrated their forgotten story at one of the park’s anniversary events. Mr. Hunt has been with the park since 1972 and is an institution. Meeting him was the highlight of my visit to Fort Kearny.

I continued westward on US 34, and there was even less traffic. I think I only passed one car in more than two hours.

As I was leaving the town of Holdrege, Nebraska, the weather instantly changed, and it started pouring rain. Then it started to hail. I had been cognizant of the weather on this trip due to recent severe weather and tornados in the region, so I immediately pulled to the side of the road and decided to make a U-turn and go back into town.

I've Been in Much Worse Hail, but I Didn't Know What Might Lie Ahead

I turned into a parking lot for a bit, and when the hail stopped, I moved across the street to McDonald’s, where I decided to wait out the storm. The heavy rain lasted for only 30 minutes or so, and I was soon back on the highway. The weather heading west had turned nice and sunny.

I gained an hour this afternoon when I crossed back into Mountain Time Zone, and soon, I was back in Colorado. As a result of the time change, I arrived at my hotel in Wray, Colorado, earlier than usual and checked into the Cobblestone Inn, just about the only hotel in this part of the country.

Back to Colorful Colorado

The Cobblestone Inn may be a step down from most of the places I’ve stayed in on this trip, but the hospitality and service were a notch above. As I pulled into a parking space at the hotel, I noticed a man grilling something, as well as a sign announcing someone’s graduation party. As I walked by with my luggage, I teasingly asked if I could buy a plate. The man who was cooking and catering the party said he would be happy to give me one. I protested, but he insisted and said everything was covered anyway. He then proceeded to fix me two tacos, one steak and one chicken. I thanked him profusely and made my way to the front desk.

Amy at the front desk was so friendly, and I told her my story. She said that he had fixed a plate for her when she arrived a short time before. After I got my key, she told me my room was on the second floor, and the stairs were at the end of the hallway. No elevator!

I wondered how I’d get upstairs with my luggage and plate of food, and Amy insisted on helping me with my things. She carried my suitcase upstairs and held my plate while I opened the door. Wow! That’s service!

I settled in and ate two of the most delicious tacos I’ve ever had. The meat was so tender and well-seasoned. I had to go back downstairs and thank the kind chef. What a delightful way to end my trip.

These Tacos Were the Best!

From One Capitol to Another

Unlike yesterday, today was a multi-stop day. The distance I traveled wasn’t that far, but I was busy from early morning until late afternoon.

One of the main reasons for my stop in Des Moines, Iowa, was to visit the state capitol. I had seen its prominent, golden dome from the interstate on my way into town yesterday, and I was looking forward to my visit. Getting there was a bit of a challenge this morning, however, since many of the roads surrounding the building were closed for a Superhero Heart Run.

The Iowa State Capitol is a magnificent building. Completed in 1886, it is a wonderful example of Renaissance Revival style architecture and one of the most beautiful capitol buildings I’ve visited. I had decided to wander through the building using a self-guided brochure, not wanting to take the time for a one-hour tour.

Iowa State Capitol

I was immediately struck by the capitol’s centerpiece, its rotunda and inner dome. At the base of the dome are eight lunette paintings that represent the progress of civilization. The Grand Staircase that leads to the second floor was even more impressive. It is dominated by a massive mural entitled Westward, which symbolizes the arrival of pioneers in Iowa. On the third floor above the mural are six mosaics in arched panels depicting Defense, Charity, Executive, Legislative, Judiciary, and Education. The mosaics, made in Venice from small pieces of colored glass, were even more amazing when I was able to see them up close.

The Inner Dome Was Beautiful

Grand Spaces

Impressive Artwork

Because I didn’t take a tour, I was unable to visit the chambers of the Senate and House of Representatives or any other rooms. A guide I was speaking with as I was leaving wanted to take me to the Law Library, said to be one of the most beautiful libraries in the country. Although regulations would not permit this kind gesture, I appreciated it all the same. After looking at photos of the library later that evening, I regretted not having taken the tour.

My next stop was the Des Moines Art Center, which I had planned to visit for its architectural history and one specific painting. The museum was built in three stages, each by one of the most prominent architects of the twentieth century. The original building was designed by Eliel Saarinen in 1948, and additions by I. M. Pei in 1968 and Richard Meier in 1985 completed the complex. When I stood in the courtyard, I was able to take in half a century of American architecture.

Des Moines Art Center - From top to bottom, Saarinen, Pei, and Meier Wings

A Half Century of Modern Architecture in the Courtyard

The painting I wished to see was Edward Hopper’s Automat. I love his art, and this was a seminal work in his career. The painting is often out on loan, so I was happy it was on exhibit. I must admit that I was surprised to learn that such an important painting was owned by a museum in Iowa.

Edward Hopper's Automat

Although many of the galleries were closed, I still found several works that really caught my eye, even though I’m not always a fan of modern art. The first was entitled Museum Storage: Please Do Not Remove the Labels. The wry humor shown here made the piece quite memorable, given Tim’s career and the types of volunteer work we have done at national parks.

Museum Storage: Please Do Not Remove the Labels

Two pieces were especially powerful and thought provoking, and both resonated with me. These pieces explore the uses and possibilities of the written word in visual art, a genre that was new to me. I learned that I Want a President has become an icon of art activism.

I Want a President and My Calling (Card)

I drove across Iowa and soon crossed the Missouri River into Nebraska on the Mormon Pioneer Memorial Bridge. Nearby in North Omaha, I visited the Mormon Trail Center, which is located on the site of the Winter Quarters, the temporary settlement used by Mormons during the winter of 1846-1847.

Mormon Pioneer Bridge

The Winter Quarters is a major site on the Mormon Pioneer National Historic Trail, and the center’s exhibits, reconstructed settings, and artifacts tell the story of the Mormon pioneers’ westward migration to the Salt Lake Valley. The interpretation was well done.

Mormon Trail Center

Next up was the headquarters for the Lewis and Clark National Historic Trail on Omaha’s riverfront. Since I had visited several trail sites on this trip, I wanted to stop here. I checked out the exhibits and found another one in the bathroom – “Think while you’re stalling. . .” Because the park ranger was not the talkative sort, and since I tend to spend a considerable amount of time talking with rangers, I found myself ahead of schedule when I left.

Lewis and Clark National Historic Trail Headquarters

I realized then that I could probably make it to Lincoln, Nebraska, to tour that state capitol before it closed. Since I had originally planned to visit there tomorrow, and since the capitol did not open until 1:00 pm on Sunday, this was a very good thing.

Of the three capitols on this trip, I was most looking forward to visiting Nebraska’s State Capitol. This building, designed by Bertram Grosvenor Goodhue and completed in 1932, departed from tradition by incorporating a high-rise office tower in the design, thus becoming the nation’s first modern statehouse. The capitol was the first designed in the Art Deco style and is also unique in its use of artwork throughout. When Goodhue developed his vision, artwork was a key feature.

Tower on the Plains, Nebraska's State Capitol

I learned my lesson from my visit to the Iowa State Capitol and planned to take a tour. Unfortunately, I was ten minutes too late. The public spaces were open, however, and as I wandered around, I found myself gawking at what I saw.

A vestibule on the north side of the building leads into the foyer, and then into the central rotunda, one space more magnificent than the next. The art and iconography throughout tell the story of Nebraska and her people and the state’s relationship to the ideals of Western civilization.

A Grand Rotunda

Jaw-Dropping Spaces

Colorful, tile vaulted ceilings, exquisite mosaic and inlaid marble floors, and Venetian glass wall murals were spectacular, and one feature seemed to be more stunning than the next. Large murals, including those in the foyer and Memorial Hall on the fourteenth floor, were added between the 1950s and 1990s and continue the artistic tradition.

Large Murals from the 1950s and 1960s in the Foyer

Murals from the 1990s in the Memorial Hall

Because it was the end of the day, I was able to take the time to look more closely at the architectural details on the exterior of the building. Every element related to the theme, and there was a lot to see.

Amazing Sculptural Details on the Exterior

Both the Ohio and Nebraska State Capitols were magnificent buildings, very different in style, but equally grand. I’m not sure I could pick a favorite.

I finally checked into the Hyatt Place in Lincoln’s Haymarket Entertainment District and relaxed in another very lovely room. I cancelled my hotel reservation for tomorrow night and booked another hotel much closer to Loveland. This way, I’ll get home by early afternoon on Monday.

From New Philadelphia to Des Moines

Today was a very long driving day, with only one scheduled destination to break up the miles. Over the course of the day, I crossed from Missouri into Illinois, then back into Missouri, and finally into Iowa.

A Three-State Day

About one hour after leaving the St. Louis area, I stopped at New Philadelphia National Historic Site. This is a very new site, and there is no National Park Service presence. The local volunteer organization, which has erected an information kiosk and a walking tour with guideposts, continues to maintain the site.

The Kiosk at New Philadelphia National Historic Site

New Philadelphia is the first town in the United States platted and registered by an African American. Free Frank McWorter founded the town in 1836 after purchasing the freedom of his wife and himself. The family soon moved to Illinois, and in 1835, Free Frank purchased a parcel of land and laid out the town of New Philadelphia. He subdivided the property into 144 lots and sold them to both Black and White settlers. He then used his earnings to purchase the freedom of 16 family members. New Philadelphia soon became a stop on the Underground Railroad.

Free Frank and Lucy McWorter

Map of New Philadelphia

A Free, Racially Diverse Community

The population of the town peaked in 1865 but began to decline after the railroad bypassed the town. Although the physical elements of New Philadelphia disappeared, descendants and neighboring communities kept its memory alive. Like the group at New Springs Battlefield, a local nonprofit organization has preserved the town and its history.

There has been quite a debate about New Philadelphia becoming a unit of the National Park Service. Although no one doubts the historic significance of the site, the issue is that nothing discernable from its period of significance remains (the existing structures were relocated here and were not part of the town.) Archeologists, however, disagree with this assessment and consider the property to be a nationally significant archeological site that advances our understanding of free, rural communities and the abolitionist cause in the mid-1800s.

New Philadelphia Today

It is often stated that a new national park unit remains in its infancy for the first ten years after it is established. This park was established in December 2022, so it would be interesting to return after that time to see how the National Park Service develops the unit.

As I was leaving, a car pulled into the parking area, and I waved “hello” to the young couple. I made my way to Barry City Hall, where the passport stamp is kept, and ran into the couple again as I was getting back into my car. We talked for a bit, and I assumed that they were also members of the passport “cult,” as Tim would call it. This led to a discussion about the national parks we’ve been to and recommendations for where to go next. It was a fun visit.

I crossed back into Missouri and began the long drive to Des Moines, Iowa. Thankfully, most of the roads were four-lane, divided highways with little traffic. A stop for coffee helped break up the afternoon.

I had hoped to visit Pella, Iowa, but it was getting too late in the day. My travel insurance agent lives there and had invited me to see the town and meet him at a famous bakery. I’m disappointed that I missed that opportunity.

Before I reached Des Moines, I encountered another horrible accident on the opposite side of the highway. Again, I tried not to rubberneck, but a semi-truck and a large piece of farm equipment seemed to be involved. Neither fared well, but I didn’t see any white sheets this time, thank goodness.

I arrived in downtown Des Moines and checked into the Hyatt Place. Although I was using points for my stay, the agent upgraded me to a suite. How nice was that? It seemed that most of the guests were here for graduation ceremonies or a country music concert. It had been a long time since I’d seen so many rhinestone-bedecked outfits, cowboy boots, and hats.

From a Fort to Ste. Genevieve

Today was a three-stop day, and I enjoyed each one. I started the morning at Fort Massac State Park in Illinois, which was just a few minutes from my hotel. The fort has a long history, but I was interested in its association with Lewis and Clark. Here, two volunteers joined the expedition. I strolled around the reconstructed fort, gazed at the Ohio River, and watched the film.

Fort Massac State Park

Crossing into Missouri

After wandering through the back roads of Illinois, I crossed the Mississippi River into Missouri. My destination was the Trail of Tears State Park. This park commemorates and interprets one of the most tragic events in American history, the forced removal of the Cherokee People to reservations in Oklahoma.

I have visited several sites on the Trail of Tears National Historic Trail, but I was finally able to watch the documentary produced by the National Park Service. It was an excellent film, but it almost brought me to tears. I left the room feeling so angry about what our government has done to Native Americans over the years.

Trail of Tears State Park

I calmed down, however, and had a wonderful conversation with the park’s director about not only the Trail of Tears, but also road trips and solo traveling. I spent way too much time there, but she was wonderful to talk with. After driving through the park and checking out the scenic viewpoints over the Mississippi River, I was on the road again.

I followed a state highway to Ste. Genevieve, Missouri, and another relatively new unit of the National Park Service. Ste. Genevieve National Historical Park interprets French culture and colonialism and preserves the largest group of French vernacular vertical log structures in the United States.

Although the name of the park is the same as the town, the National Park Service is but one of many groups working to preserve Ste. Genevieve. The park service owns three historic buildings in town, and each demonstrates the different socioeconomic status of their inhabitants.

I toured the few exhibits at the Visitor Center and admired the amazing diorama of the town that was created by a local artist. After watching the film and learning more about the architecture of the buildings, I signed up for the two tours offered by the park.

The Diorama at Ste. Genevieve National Historical Park

I first visited the Green Tree Tavern and was intrigued with the architecture. The Green Tree Tavern, built in 1790, is the oldest structure in Ste. Genevieve and is a well-preserved example of a French colonial vertical log home. Although the vertical logs would have been covered with a lime wash, it was so interesting to see the actual construction details. We could even find Roman numeral carpenter marks that helped workers know which logs to connect.

The ranger gave a great tour, discussing not only the construction techniques, but the many people and stories associated with the building. Although I tend to focus on architecture, I found that her presentation about the various people who lived there brought the house to life for me. The National Park Service is awaiting the completion of a Historic Structures Report before undertaking restoration.

The Green Tree Tavern

Vertical Log Construction Details - Note the Roman Numeral Marks in the Middle Photo

The next tour of the Jean Baptiste Vallé House was equally interesting. This house belonged to the most prominent and wealthy colonial leader of the community. The house has a vertical timber core structure from 1793, like that of the Green Tree Tavern, but its appearance has been drastically changed and updated during its long history as a private home.

The ranger-led tour of the house was also interesting, particularly the story of Vallé family and the city’s transition from a legal system based in civil law to one based in English common law following the Louisiana Purchase.

The Jean Baptiste Vallé House

What interested me the most about the house was its art collection, which is on loan to the National Park Service. I learned that Ste. Genevieve was host to one of the most significant art colonies of its time between the 1930s and early 1940s. Here, artists created works that responded to the key political and artistic issues of the day, including social injustice, the impact of the Depression, and the creative possibilities of abstraction. Thomas Hart Benton was one of the artists who participated. I am a big fan of Depression-era and WPA art, and appreciated the pieces on display, particularly two works by Martyl, an artist with whom I was unfamiliar.

Paintings Created at the Ste. Genevieve Artist Colony

After the tour, I checked out many of the other historic houses in town, including the Bauvais-Amoureux House, also owned by the National Park Service but closed for rehabilitation. The house is a post-in-earth structure originally built in 1792 by Jean Baptiste St. Gemme Bauvais, a wealthy man, but it was later the home of Pélagie Amoureux, a free woman of color before the Civil War.

The Bauvais-Amoureux House

Other Significant Houses in Ste. Genevieve

I waited to leave Ste. Genevieve until 6:00 pm to avoid rush hour traffic in and around St. Louis. It seemed to be a good idea, and traffic on the interstate was moving smoothly until it suddenly stopped. At least a dozen or so fire rescue vehicles and police cars in both directions tried to maneuver through the stopped traffic to reach what must have been a terrible accident. We were stopped for about 30 minutes and then were slowly able to move forward along the shoulder. 

I tried not to rubberneck, but I couldn’t help but glance over and saw a white sheet on the ground with an overturned motorcycle nearby. I was horrified and really shaken by what I glimpsed. I managed to finish the drive into metropolitan St. Louis and was so relieved when I finally stepped out of the car.

Sometimes, I manage to end up just where I need to be. It’s happened before on this trip, and it happened again tonight. I was still a little shaky when I checked into the Hyatt Place in Chesterfield, Missouri, just west of St. Louis. Angela and Karen at the front desk were so welcoming, and we started talking. It turns out that Karen worked at Rocky Mountain National Park just before Tim arrived, and we had so much fun swapping stories.

My corner room was lovely, the nicest so far on this trip, and I talked to Tim for a while. I told him that I had decided to go down to the bar and have a drink. I rarely drink, but it seemed like a way to calm down after the drive. I’m somewhat surprised that the accident affected me the way it did. I guess I’ve never seen a white sheet covering a body before.

I sat at the bar and started talking with a lovely couple from Minnesota. I don’t usually “need” a drink, but this, plus the delightful conversation, was the perfect tonic for me. The fact that this Hyatt Place has a bar made this all possible.

From a Battlefield to a Creative City

I learned an interesting lesson today. It is often the smallest events and actions that end up having a lasting and significant impact on the future. Have you ever heard of the Battle of Mill Springs? I certainly had not, but that would change on my visit to Mill Springs Battlefield National Monument this morning.

Mill Springs Battlefield National Monument is the site of the first decisive Union victory during the Civil War. This outcome boosted morale and assured Kentucky’s place in the union. It’s hard to believe that a battle that no one has heard of had such a lasting effect on the outcome of the Civil War.

I’m not a huge fan of battlefield parks, but I thoroughly enjoyed my visit to this one. The film was excellent and clearly explained the battle and its significance. The park ranger at the desk was so enlightening, and I could have spent all morning talking with her.

Exhibits at the Visitor Center

This Is Only the Second Park I've Visited that Includes Exhibits in the Bathrooms

I followed the driving tour of the battlefield but did not take time to hike the trails. I had visited the last two stops in the morning since they were on the other side of the Cumberland River and closer to my hotel. These two houses served as headquarters for several generals during the Battle of Mill Springs, but they are not yet owned by the National Park Service. The adjacent grist mill has been restored.

The Driving Tour Includes Ten Stops

The Brown-Lanier House (#9) and West-Metcalf House (#10) Are South of the Cumberland River

This Restored Grist Mill Was Built Around 1877

An interesting footnote to this story is that in 1902, a ten-year old girl began decorating the tree under which Confederate General Felix Zollicoffer was placed after his death. Each Memorial Day, she placed a handmade wreath around what became known as the Zollie Tree. Her simple commemoration inspired others in the community and eventually resulted in the preservation of the Mill Springs Battlefield. Once again, small, and seemingly insignificant, actions can lead to something much larger and more impactful.

The Zollie Tree - The Original Tree Was Felled in 1995 during a Storm

The preservation and interpretation of the Battle of Mill Springs is due to the dedication of a mostly volunteer association that saved the battlefield, built a visitor center, created a film and exhibits, and developed the driving tour. The result was a ready-made park for the National Park Service to take over in 2019.

While at the park, I also learned about a connection between the county in which Mill Springs Battlefield is located and a National Park unit that I will be visiting later this week. Free Frank McWorter, the man who founded the town of New Philadelphia, had been previously enslaved in Pulaski County before he purchased his freedom. I love making connections.

I left Mill Springs around noon and made my way westward. Despite the rain that fell on and off today, I enjoyed the drive through Kentucky, mostly on four-lane divided highways with little traffic.

At the end of the day, I stopped in Paducah, Kentucky, and visited the Convention and Visitors Bureau (CVB), which had a passport stamp for the Lewis and Clark National Historic Trail. Although the stamp was initially my reason for stopping there, I read that Paducah had been designated as a UNESCO Creative City. I was unfamiliar with such a designation and learned that a Creative City is one that has identified creativity as a strategic factor for sustainable urban development.

I never would have guessed that a small city like Paducah could receive such an honor. Only nine cities in the Unites States have been so designated, among them Santa Fe, Austin, San Antonio, and Tucson. Paducah was recognized as a City of Crafts and Folk Art, partly because of its longstanding tradition of quilt making.

I had a lengthy conversation with the director of the CVB, who explained that the city’s creative efforts have expanded to include murals as well as other artistic endeavors. Our conversation led me to walk around the downtown area, where I admired the many rehabilitated buildings. There were people on the street, and people were eating and drinking at the several outdoor cafes.

The Preservation of Downtown Paducah Has Led to Its Revitalization

I’m not usually a big fan of murals, but I really admired the ones painted on the floodwall overlooking the confluence of the Ohio and Tennessee Rivers. This Wall to Wall Project depicts pivotal moments from Paducah’s long history and is arranged chronologically. Bronze interpretive panels in front of each mural describe what is represented in each painting. The murals have been a major draw, and tourism has steadily increased as a result.

The Wall to Wall Mural Project

Behind the Floodwall Is the Confluence of the Ohio and Tennessee Rivers

My hotel for the evening was not too far away, but I had to cross into Illinois on a very cool bridge over the Ohio River to get there. I later learned that this bridge, known as the Brookport Bridge and built in 1929, contains what may be one of the longest simple truss spans ever built. It is indeed a very long bridge, and extremely narrow, and has often been called the scariest and most dangerous bridge over the Ohio River. Driving across was a nerve-racking experience, especially since I was trying to take photos as I drove!

I Made It Across the Bridge

I made it safely across, and as I drove to the Holiday Inn Express in Metropolis, Illinois, I noticed how high the river is. Flooding is occurring, and trees along the banks are partially submerged.