Day 102 – East London, South Africa

East London is South Africa’s only river port, and Viking Sky sailed in at noon today.

East London Harbor

Tim and I would not see the city, however, since we had scheduled a different type of excursion. After visiting the DumaZulu Traditional Village two days ago, I wanted to learn about South Africa’s other major cultural group – the Xhosas. Therefore, we embarked on an optional excursion, “Xhosa Cultural Experience at Khaya La Bantu,” described as follows:

Learn about the Xhosa culture on a village visit to the Eastern Cape. On arrival at the Khaya La Bantu Cultural Village open air museum, you will be welcomed by local Xhosa. Listen as the various customs are introduced and observe a customary dance performance to the sound of drums. Performers will be wearing traditional costume and your guide will explain the importance of dress, as you observe how the intricately adorned attire indicates the social status of its wearer. Walk through the village and see the sacred kraal, a round structure of interwoven branches. See a local Beer Ceremony, where male members of the tribe may be invited to sample a glass. Taste a delicious array of traditional Xhosa foods including wild spinach with maize rice, and pot breads, along with complimentary refreshments. During your visit, traditional handicrafts will be on display, available for purchase.

After leaving East London, we passed several towns where even many of the poorer-looking houses had satellite dishes. The hillsides in the more rural areas were dotted with small villages, many of which featured traditional round houses, as well as more modern square ones.

Everyone Needs a Satellite Dish

Scenery Along the Way

We eventually turned off the main road onto a dirt lane with roaming cattle. I was surprised that this was our destination and was very curious when our driver stopped the bus and got out to talk with a woman standing in the doorway of a traditional hut with her children. After backing up the bus onto another dirt lane to reach the main road, I realized that we had been traveling for quite some time in the wrong direction.

This Is Not Where We Were Supposed to Be

After an extra hour on the road, we finally reached Khaya La Bantu, where we received a very warm welcome and were immediately swept up in the lively Xhosa culture. Dancers dressed in traditional outfits and accompanied by drums greeted us. We were then ushered into a large, round ceremonial building, where the men were seated on one side and the women on the other. Nine young Xhosa girls danced and sang for us, and then Michael stepped forward to introduce us to the village and the customs and heritage of the Xhosa people.

Lively Xhosa Dances

A Welcome from Michael

At the end, he asked if we had questions and expressed surprise that no one asked what a white guy was doing here. He explained that he was half white, half Xhosa and that he had been cared for by a Xhosa woman when he was young. He has embraced the Xhosa culture and went through the initiation rite that young boys go through around age 18 – circumcision.

The men in our group then left with Michael to learn what Xhosa men do, while we went with the women and girls to learn about their roles in Xhosa culture. The girls danced for us again, and when they were fanning themselves afterwards, Rose and another woman passed handheld fans to them.

The Girls Were Dancing for Us

One of the elder women, our teacher, introduced to Xhosa spiritual customs and explained that although she is Christian, she also worships her ancestors. She told us that Xhosa beliefs recognize the presence of both ancestral spirits and a supreme authority. The spirits of ancestors are honored in rituals and ceremonies, and they are called upon for guidance and support.

We also learned about the symbolism behind the various types of dress, the duties that women perform, and the way in which young girls are brought up and taught the skills they will need once they marry. As an example, one of the women and then the girls demonstrated how they grind maize into flour.

Learning About the Customs and Work of Xhosa Women

We were then invited to partake of brandy and their traditionally brewed beer. Before tasting either one, however, our teacher poured a small amount onto the floor for the ancestors. I was fine with the brandy, but I barely managed a sip of the beer.

It was then time to go to the kitchen to learn about traditional foods. Being the sometimes-subversive person that I am, I lingered behind and offered to show the girls my neck fan, a decidedly modern convenience. It was fun to put the fan around their necks and watch the amazement in their eyes as they felt the cool air on their faces.

Our teacher, however, soon returned, took my hand, and led me to where I was supposed to be. Here, there were large iron pots resting over an open fire, and the women showed us the traditional foods they had prepared in each pot. The smells were tantalizing, and we learned that they would be serving these foods to us. The meal was delicious.

Cooking Delicious Food Over an Open Fire

The women and girls also laid out a wide array of beaded jewelry and canvas bags they had made, and all of us seemed to be clamoring to purchase something. The girls, especially, seemed delighted when we selected one of their creations.

Too soon, it was time to reboard our motorcoach to return to the ship. Before we left, several of the girls came up to me and wanted to pose with me for pictures. They had no difficulty in taking selfies! These girls were so sweet, curious, and genuine, and I loved spending time with them. Likewise, the women were warm, delightful, and so open with us.

Selfies with the Xhosa Girls

A Warm Sendoff from Michael and the Xhosa Women and Girls

Spending time in the Xhosa village today was an amazing experience, and I left with a respect and understanding of this long-standing culture. Although I had thoroughly enjoyed our visit to the DumaZulu Traditional Village two days ago, this visit was even more meaningful to me. It felt more authentic, almost as though these warm and gracious people had invited us into their homes. This excursion certainly rates in the top ten of all excursions I’ve taken to date.

All About the Khaya La Bantu Village

Day 101 – Durban, South Africa

Viking Sky arrived in Durban, South Africa, early this morning, much too early in fact for me to watch the sail-in. By the time I got up, we were docked at the Nelson Mandela Cruise Terminal.

Views from Viking Sky Towards the Terminal and the City of Durban

Today was our day for a safari, and Tim and I left at noon for the “Tala Private Game Reserve” optional excursion. This was the description:

Experience the natural beauty of Africa in the stunning Tala Private Game Reserve. Nestled in the hills of the KwaZulu-Natal province—an area of indigenous acacia thornveld, open grassland and sensitive wetland—the Tala Private Game Reserve provides an exceptional collection of plants and wildlife. Board your open-game vehicle with highly knowledgeable guides who will lead you through the reserve. Get close to nature, interact with the environment and absorb the sights, sounds and smells of the African bush. The reserve covers more than 7,000 acres, and features many diverse ecosystems that are home to 300 different bird species and big game such as rhino, kudu, hippo, giraffe and sable antelope. Marvel at the fiery red flowers of an aloe plant in full bloom, or the smell of the fragrant wild sage. Upon your return to base, enjoy refreshments and free time before returning to your ship.

As we drove through Durban, I got a glimpse of some of the city’s historic buildings, including a clubhouse, a courthouse, two Art Deco commercial buildings, and a church.  On the outskirts of the downtown, our guide pointed out the Jesus Dome.

A Few of Durban's Historic Buildings - Durban Club, Jesus Dome, Victoria Mansions, 
Durban High Court, First Church of Christ Scientist, and Quadrant House

The drive was quite scenic, and we even spotted giraffes before arriving at Tala Private Game Reserve. As it turned out, we would see these same giraffes up close later today. Two large 4x4 vehicles were waiting for us when we arrived, and I quickly climbed into the smaller one, saving a spot for Tim. That turned out to be an excellent decision because all six of us ended up with a “window” seat.

Even before we set out on the game drive, I was so surprised to see zebras moseying towards us. I had hoped to see zebras today, and my wish was granted.

I Love Zebras

We did not have to search for the animals. They seemed to be everywhere we looked, which was amazing. Among these smaller animals were several rhinoceroses, and we watched them cross the road. It was sad to hear that it was necessary to remove their horns to protect them from poaching.

Rhinos

I had not seen rhinos at Amboseli National Park, so I have now seen four of the Big Five – lions, elephants, African buffalo, and now rhinos. Only leopards remain for me.

As we drove through the reserve, we continued to see so many animals, several of which were new to me. We saw ostriches, blesbok, impala, kudus, and more zebras.

Ostriches

Blesbok

Impala

Kudus

More Zebras

Although seeing these animals was amazing, I was in awe when we came upon a tower of giraffes. Yes, a group of giraffes is a tower. There must have been a dozen or more feasting on the trees, and we sat and watched them for a long time. What magnificent animals they are, and I was thrilled to see them up close.

I Also Love Giraffes

Amazing Giraffes

More Giraffes

As we made our way back to the entrance, we passed a herd of nyalas and a confusion of wildebeest.

Nyalas

Wildebeest

I think we really hit the jackpot today, and it was a very rewarding experience. In addition to seeing so many animals, I also enjoyed the beautiful setting of the reserve itself.

The Reserve Is In a Beautiful Part of South Africa

Tim, Our Guide, and Sarah

On the way back to the ship, we took a different route through Durban, and I was able to see more of the city’s historic sites, including government buildings, religious buildings, and a former railway workshop.

A Few More of Durban's Historic Buildings - Durban Central Post Office, Juma Mosque,
Durban City Hall, St. Peter's Catholic Church, and Old Durban Railway Workshop

Tonight, Chef Alastair and his culinary team had another special event prepared for us at the Pool Grille. Here, we were served a multi-course dinner with bread sticks and dips, a deconstructed Caesar salad, fish and chips, and an ice cream dessert. The fish and chips were perfectly tender, yet crispy, and the dessert was so good.

Fish and Chips at the Pool Grill

Although Tim and I didn’t make it to the theater for the evening performance, we enjoyed watching “Magic of Music: An Evening with Our Classical Musicians” on our TV. Although we enjoy listening to these musicians individually, it was so nice to see and hear them collaborate with one another.

Magic of Music: An Evening with Our Classical Musicians

Day 100 – Richards Bay, South Africa

Richards Bay was our first of several stops in South Africa, and we arrived there at noon. This city has the deepest natural harbor on the African continent, and this harbor is one of the largest. The port is one of the world’s leading exporters of coal, and as we docked at a coal export terminal, we were warned that the dock would be extremely dirty with coal dust. Viking even took precautionary measures to protect the ship from airborne particles by keeping the skydome closed, limiting outside access, and covering the carpets with temporary rugs.

Sailing into Richards Bay - A Beach on One Side and Piles and Piles of Coal on the Other

The sail-in was more exciting than usual when a helicopter arrived to pick up the pilot, who had originally boarded from a boat. I didn’t witness the final maneuver, but I did see the helicopter as it began to lower the harness. That was a first for us.

A Helicopter Arriving to Pick Up the Pilot

While most passengers departed on safaris, Tim and I had decided to learn more about the culture of South Africa. Therefore, we had selected an optional excursion, “DumaZulu Traditional Village,” described this way:

Discover the culture and traditions of the Zulu during an informative visit to the DumaZulu Traditional Village. Embark on a scenic drive by motor coach to Dumazulu, or “Thundering Zulu” in the Southern Bantu language, set in the heart of Zululand. The largest Zulu village of its kind in the Southern Hemisphere, it is also the only one open to tourism by King Goodwill Zwelithini, having received the Royal Zulu stamp of approval for its objectives and authenticity. Upon your arrival at this living cultural museum, you will be introduced to your guides, who will invite you into the chief’s kraal, or homestead. Here, observe and gain insight into various Zulu traditions, including basket weaving, spear and shield making, beadwork, pot making, sangoma bone-throwing rituals and captivating Zulu dancing. After your visit, return to your ship with a deeper understanding of the Zulu culture.

After realizing that the air conditioning was not working on our motorcoach, our excellent guide arranged for a replacement bus, and we made the switch in record time. I enjoyed the drive through northern Zululand, the historical region in South Africa where the Zulu people established their nineteenth-century kingdom. Here, 70 percent of the population is Zulu.

Many of the roads we traveled were lined with eucalyptus trees, which are grown for timber, paper, poles, firewood, and shelter. They are even planted in rows like crops.

Mile After Mile of Eucalyptus Trees

We also passed many small villages and saw scores of rondavels, a traditional round hut found throughout Africa. While traditional rondavels are still being constructed of mud with thatch roofs, modern ones are typically built of concrete or cement blocks with metal roofs.

Villages Along the Way

We soon arrived at DumaZulu Traditional Zulu Village, where a Zulu man introduced us to the village and tried to teach us some of the traditional Zulu greetings and responses we would be expected to use. He had only limited success, however, especially with me. I seem to be unable to speak any foreign language, let alone Zulu!

Trying to Teach Us Zulu Greetings and Responses with Limited Success

Our cultural guide took over and led us to the village. To enter through the main gate, we were instructed to bow and then call out one of the greetings to request that the gate be opened. We then crouched down as we made our way under the entrance.

The Proper Way to Request Entrance to a Zulu Village

Once in the village, we saw the various huts made of mud or tree branches. Our guide did not talk about the layout of the village or the architecture, but I did a little research and learned the following:

A traditional Zulu homestead, known as an umuzi, is designed with both practicality and cultural symbolism in mind. It consists of multiple beehive-shaped huts (izindlu) arranged in a circular pattern around a central livestock enclosure (isibaya). The circular layout is intentional—it promotes unity, security, and harmony within the family. 

Each section of the umuzi has a specific function: 

• Isibaya (Central Cattle Kraal): The heart of the homestead, where cattle are kept. Cattle are not just livestock but symbols of wealth, status, and heritage in Zulu culture. 
• Indlu (Hut): Individual huts are assigned based on family hierarchy. The eldest male’s hut usually holds the most honored position. 
• Ukhamba (Communal Space): This is where families gather to share meals, stories, and important discussions.

Inside the Village

A Traditional Zulu Village

Our group was separated into men on the left and women on the right before we could learn about how spears are crafted, as well as the difference between spears used for hunting and fighting.  Guests were invited to try using a spear, and Tim volunteered.  I’m not sure how well he would be able to defend himself, however.  He might need a little more practice.

Tim and His Experience with Spears

We then moved on to learn about the various types of shields and how they are made. The Zulu warrior nation is famous for its spears and shields. Here, I was admonished for standing with the men and had to move to the women’s side.

Many Types of Shields

We then learned about the work of Zulu women, who didn’t seem to care about separating the men from the women. Our guide explained that items crafted by the Zulu have cultural significance because of the way in which their social values are integrated into their arts and crafts. For example, the colors, color combinations, and patterns found in traditional Zulu beadwork are more than simply decorative. They have very specific meanings.

We also learned about traditional pottery and basket weaving, and one of the women demonstrated how to carry a pot filled with water on her head. I certainly didn’t volunteer to try that skill!

Zulu Women and Their Traditional Skills

Our final stop was a visit with the traditional healer, one of the most important roles in the village. We learned that even today, many Zulus prefer traditional to Western medicine.

The Traditional Healer

All the skills that were demonstrated today have been passed down from generation to generation and are preserved and practiced here in the village. We also learned about the role of ancestors, the significance of traditional dress, the importance of a man's cattle, and the rituals surrounding courtship and marriage.

It was then time for the dance performance. Traditional dance is an important part of the Zulu culture; it is not simply entertainment. Zulu dance is a living language that communicates stories, emotions, and traditions passed down through generations. As we listened to the beat of the drums, we watched several dances that ranged from the energetic leaps of war dances to the graceful movements of ceremonial rituals.

A Few of the Dances We Saw

This was an amazing excursion, and I felt that I gained a much better understanding of the culture and traditions of the Zulu people. Everyone was so friendly and welcoming, and it was fun taking photos with them.

The Man on the Right Called Tim "Daddy"

Day 99 – Maputo, Mozambique

As we docked this morning in Maputo, Mozambique, I was surprised when I stepped onto our balcony and saw the Maputo–Katembe Bridge, one of the longest suspension bridges on the African continent. This bridge was mostly financed by a loan from the Export-Import Bank of China, reflecting China's increasing presence in Africa with its support of major infrastructure projects. This was not the first Chinese-financed infrastructure development that we have seen.

A View of the Maputo–Katembe Bridge as We Docked in Maputo

Maputo, known as the “City of Acacias” for its many trees, is the capital of Mozambique. The city was laid out in typical Portuguese fashion in the mid-nineteenth century, with a central plaza surrounded by administrative buildings and a church, and streets in a grid pattern. This city's architectural heritage, a blend of traditional Portuguese and African architectural styles, is still evident in Maputo today, and Tim and I set out to see it.

We had selected the included excursion, “Panoramic Maputo,” described as follows:

Discover the vibrant capital of Mozambique on the shores of the Indian Ocean. Maputo features colonial Portuguese architecture and wide avenues lined with jacaranda and acacia trees. Founded as a port town by the Portuguese, the influence of travelers and traders from Africa, Asia and Europe has made the city a diverse and lively metropolis. You will enjoy a scenic drive past some of Maputo’s most important landmarks, including the domed bronze CFM Railway Station, which dates back to 1910. The remarkable structure was constructed in South Africa, and its assembly was an innovation for that time. After a stop to visit the vendors at the local market and browse for the perfect memento, you will return to your ship.

We set out from the port and drove along the waterfront and through the downtown area, stopping first at an artisan market, known for its array of locally made crafts, including wooden sculptures, traditional masks, jewelry, textiles, and paintings. The vendors were rather aggressive in trying to persuade us to purchase their items, but I left empty handed.

Artisan Market

We then passed the Maputo Central Hospital and many colonial-era buildings on our way to Independence Square, an important landmark in the city. The square was constructed by the Portuguese and renamed in 1975 after Mozambique gained its independence.

Maputo Central Hospital and Colonial-Era Buildings

Before walking around the square, we visited the Cathedral of Our Lady of the Immaculate Conception. It is said that the architect was inspired by the Église Notre-Dame du Raincy in Paris, with its simple style and building materials. Completed in 1944, the church features clean lines, large windows, and minimalist aesthetics that contrast with the intricate designs often associated with older cathedrals.

Cathedral of Our Lady of the Immaculate Conception

As we walked across the street to the square, we were able to view the Maputo City Hall, a neoclassical style building that stands at the head of Independence Square. The statue of Samora Machel, the first president of Mozambique, dominates the square.

Independence Square

We then walked one block south to the Tunduru Botanical Gardens, a public park and garden that was designed in 1885 by British gardener Thomas Honney. This is a popular place where wedding parties often come for photos after the ceremony. We saw several groups in all their finery, and they were much nicer to look at than the fruit bats in the trees.

Tunduru Botanical Gardens

On the way back to the bus, we passed a most unusual house – the Iron House. This building is made entirely of prefabricated iron and steel and was designed by Gustave Eiffel in 1892. Eiffel intended the house to be the residence of the governor-general of Mozambique, but the design failed to consider Maputo's tropical climate. The iron structure turned out to be unbearably hot and was never used as a dwelling.

The Iron House

We made a quick stop at the Maputo Central Market, a covered market built in 1901 where produce is still sold, and then the Fortress of Maputo, which was built by the Portuguese in the mid-nineteenth century near the site of an earlier fort. I must admit that Tim and I elected to remain on the bus at both stops since it was so hot.

A Terrible Photo of Maputo Central Market

I was especially looking forward to our last stop, however, the Maputo Central Railway Station, one of the most iconic buildings in Mozambique. Built between 1908 and 1916, this building is widely recognized as one of the world’s most beautiful train stations. This Beaux-Arts style structure features an impressive dome, an ornate facade, and an extended metal platform.

Maputo Central Railway

We had time to walk through the station, learn about its history, and visit the Museu dos CFM Maputo, a museum at the station that explores the pivotal role of Mozambique's ports and railways in shaping the nation’s history. Tim and I were both impressed with the quality of the exhibits.

Maputo Central Railway

Museu dos CFM Maputo

On the way back to the ship, we passed a statue known as the Snake Lady. In 1935, a monument was erected to commemorate the Portuguese and Mozambican soldiers who died during World War I. On top of the monument is a statue of a woman holding a snake in her right hand. According to legend, the snake lived among the acacia trees here and used to bite those who wanted to rest below their shadows. This woman managed to kill the snake, which is why she is known as Senhora da Cobra.

The Snake Lady

Despite the heat, I really enjoyed this excursion, and our guide did a great job. We saw all but one of the buildings that I had hoped to see (that one wasn’t on the tour anyway), and I came away with a better understanding of Maputo. Although Mozambique is one of the poorest countries, this poverty was not as evident here as it was in Mombasa. Most likely, that was only because our tour was limited to the downtown and wealthier sections of the city.

After returning to the ship, I had a craving for a good old-fashioned hamburger, so Tim and I split one since they are so large. We took care of a few chores and then watched the port talk for Richards Bay, South Africa, where we’ll be tomorrow. As we sailed from Maputo, I was able to once again see the Maputo–Katembe Bridge, this time illuminated against the early evening sky.

A View of the Maputo–Katembe Bridge as We Sailed from Maputo

We ended the day by watching the evening show on Viking TV in our room. Assistant Cruise Director Patricia entertained us with her solo show, “Rock the Boat.” What a fabulous voice she has.

"Rock the Boat"