Day 161 – Longyearbyen, Svalbard

Viking Sky arrived in Longyearbyen, the capital of the Svalbard archipelago, this morning, and the weather was surprisingly nice, considering how far north we are. In fact, Svalbard lies about midway between the northern coast of Norway and the North Pole at the convergence of the Arctic Ocean with the Atlantic Ocean. This is probably as close to the North Pole as I’ll ever get!

The View of Longyearbyen from Viking Sky

The status of Svalbard is interesting. Although it is fully a part of the Kingdom of Norway, Svalbard’s governance and legal framework operate under special conditions. Svalbard is a free economic zone, and military use of the archipelago is restricted.

Coal mining began in Svalbard at the beginning of the twentieth century, and several permanent communities were established. Longyearbyen was founded in 1906 by American businessman John Longyear when he started a mining operation here.

Viking offered two included excursions today. While Tim selected the “Highlights of Longyearbyen,” I picked “Husky Dogs of Camp Barentz,” which was described as follows:

Journey to Camp Barentz in the remote Advent Valley and meet its lovable husky dogs and their musher. Board your motor coach for a scenic drive, pausing for photos at the famous polar bear sign which warns visitors of their possible presence. Upon arrival, meet the adorable huskies and enjoy a presentation about the lives of local mushers and the town’s history. Canines have long been a valued mode of transportation in northern climes, with sled dog teams capable of pulling heavy loads over long distances. Afterward, see Barentz Hus—a replica of the house that William Barentz and his crew built to shield themselves during the winter after discovering Svalbard. Then, step inside the gamme, a traditional Norwegian dwelling centered around an open fire, where you will enjoy a warming beverage and snack as you listen to tales of the “King of the Arctic”—the polar bear.

The drive to the camp was beautiful, with blue skies and fluffy white clouds complementing the snow-covered mountains. When we turned off the main road, we saw snowmobiles parked everywhere, as well as a few reindeer in the distance.

I Loved the Reflections of the Mountains in the Water

Snowmobiles and Reindeer - Common Sights in Svalbard

When we arrived at Camp Barentz, we were given a safety briefing about polar bears by a special guide who was responsible for keeping us safe. Anyone, except tourists, venturing into polar bear territory in Svalbard is required to have the means to scare off a polar bear, meaning flare guns and a firearm. Carrying a firearm is mandatory in Svalbard if one is traveling outside settlements, or safe zones.

Before meeting the very cute huskies, their musher gave us an introduction to the dogs, the various types of sleds, and an insight into the life of a musher and his dogs in the Arctic. Everyone was excited when we were turned loose to hang out with the dogs, who were so friendly and playful.

Arriving at Camp Barentz - Safety Briefing and Presentation About the Huskies

Such Adorable and Friendly Dogs

After touring the replica of Barentz Hus, where William Barentz lived for one winter after “discovering” Svalbard, I was able to observe the musher alone with his dogs. The affection he showed toward them was touching.

Barentz Hus

A Musher and His Dogs

It was then time for pancakes and a warm drink while we watched a presentation on polar bears. Norwegian pancakes are like crepes, and we ate them rolled up with jam. Although most guests chose coffee or tea, I tried the local blackcurrant syrup mixed with hot water. Everything was delicious.

A Very Tasty Break

Before reboarding our motorcoach, we happened to see several reindeer up close, and everyone remained at a safe distance. 

Reindeer!

On our way back to the ship, we passed two fun means of transportation in Svalbard - dogsleds on wheels and ATVs, both of which were offered by Viking as shore excursions.

Dogsleds on Wheels and an ATV

Although I rarely take two excursions in one day anymore, I made an exception today. After sailing on Viking Sky for more than five months, it might seem strange that I would decide to board another boat for an afternoon excursion, but that’s exactly what I did. I had a ticket for an optional excursion, “Catamaran Fjord Safari,” tomorrow, but decided to switch it to today since the weather was so nice and I had no idea what conditions might be like a day from now. This was the description of my excursion:

Get close to nature during an eco-friendly safari by hybrid-electric powered catamaran. Meet your skipper and board your vessel, then settle into your seat for a short safety briefing. Your ship is designed to minimize its footprint in the delicate Arctic environment, and is set over three levels, providing ample space for viewing the scenery and wildlife through panoramic windows. Keep your eyes peeled for reindeer, seals and whales, depending on the season. If you are lucky, you may even spot a polar bear. You will also sail past areas of historic significance along the Isfjord, with an informative narrative provided by your knowledgeable crew. In the comfortable onboard lounge, you will enjoy a warming beverage and a snack, with additional refreshments available to purchase. After your cruise, return to the harbor and your awaiting ship.

We boarded our eco-friendly catamaran, and I claimed a small table next to a large window on the first level. We sailed out of Longyearbyen and into Isfjord on our way across the fjord to see the Borebukta Glacier.

Our Eco-Friendly Catamaran

Our Route Was the One Marked in Blue in the Middle of the Map

Before too long, we began to see small icebergs framed by beautiful mountains, and then our first wildlife sighting – two walruses napping on one of the icebergs. At first, I just saw two brown blobs, so I was happy that the guides with better eyesight, or binoculars, realized that the blobs were alive!

Icebergs

Our First Walrus Sighting

I was especially captivated by three of the mountains in the distance, each with a beautiful design created by the snow and permafrost. The pattern on each mountain was quite different.

I Loved the Different Designs on These Three Adjacent Mountains

The Borebukta Glacier soon came into view, and its length and color were impressive. Borebukta is named after Boreas, the ancient Greek god of the cold northern wind. That suits the area well! 

Borebutka Glacier

As our boat turned around, we were also able to get a better view of the walruses that we had seen just a few minutes before. The boat always maintained a respectful distance from them but remained nearby for quite some time.

The Walruses Managed to Get Up for Us

Since we were near the glacier, the icebergs were considerably larger, and one was so photogenic that the boat circled around it so we could view it from all sides.

A Very Cool Iceberg

As we inched ever closer to the glacier, the views got even better, and it was interesting to see how far the snow-covered ice extended out from the face of the glacier.

I Love Tidewater Glaciers that Terminate in the Sea

Sarah and Ela, One of My Favorite Members of Guest Services

As we began our journey back to Longyearbyen, we spotted two more walruses, lounging on another iceberg. One of them had a broken tusk. Our two onboard guides were great and regaled us with information about all that we were seeing.

Two More Walruses

One Last Photo of an Iceberg in Isfjord

Before we reached Longyearbyen, we made a detour to sail by the former Soviet mining settlement of Grumant, which was established in 1912 and abandoned in 1965. Several of the buildings are still standing.

The Abandoned Buildings of Grumant

We also learned more about the role that coal has played in this region and saw equipment and other remains of mining activity on the way back to our ship.

Mining Equipment and Remains of Coal Mining

It was a perfect day for petting huskies and sailing to a glacier, and I’m glad I decided to switch my tour to this afternoon. Svalbard is a very interesting place, and I’m so glad it was on our itinerary.