Day 163 – Sail the Norwegian Sea

Today was the first of two sea days as we sail the Norwegian Sea on our way south towards Iceland. We had an extra hour of sleep since we set the clocks back by one hour.

The highlight of the day was the Surf and Turf special culinary event. When we arrived at the World Café, we were offered a special drink to tempt our tastebuds. It was made with Creek Water whiskey and a few other ingredients, and it was topped with red wine, which floated on the surface. I’m not a whiskey drinker, but I enjoyed it more than I expected.

Executive Chef Alastair was manning the station and cooking the delicious steaks, while Assistant Cook Shruti grilled the lobsters. This meal is always a crowd favorite, and Tim and I enjoyed our dinner.

Surf and Turf Special Event

Day 162 – Longyearbyen, Svalbard

After an overnight in Longyearbyen, we awoke to cloudy skies and colder temperatures than yesterday, and I was happy that I had switched my catamaran excursion from today to yesterday.

I did get off the ship in the afternoon and took the shuttle bus into town since I needed a warmer hat. On our last two trips, I had decided not to pack my favorite, warmest hat, and I’ve regretted it both times. I had to purchase a new hat in Canada last year, which I brought with me on this trip. It’s warm, but too thin to keep the wind out. So, I visited several shops in Longyearbyen and found a hat that I hope will keep my head and ears warm.

When we sailed away from Svalbard late this afternoon, we took the scenic route past Borebukta Glacier, which I had seen yesterday. It was just as magnificent today.

Beautiful Scenery in Isfjord

Borebukta Glacier

I found out this evening that although the weather for today’s catamaran excursion wasn’t as nice as yesterday’s, there were more wildlife sightings today. They saw larger groups of walruses, an Arctic fox, and a few others that I cannot remember. Oh well, I was happy with what I saw yesterday.

Later in the evening, we sailed through a brief winter storm, and we even saw a bit of what we call graupel on our balcony! Graupel is also known as "snow pellets" or "soft hail," and is white, like snow. It reminds me of little Styrofoam balls.

A Bit of Graupel on Our Balcony

Day 161 – Longyearbyen, Svalbard

Viking Sky arrived in Longyearbyen, the capital of the Svalbard archipelago, this morning, and the weather was surprisingly nice, considering how far north we are. In fact, Svalbard lies about midway between the northern coast of Norway and the North Pole at the convergence of the Arctic Ocean with the Atlantic Ocean. This is probably as close to the North Pole as I’ll ever get!

The View of Longyearbyen from Viking Sky

The status of Svalbard is interesting. Although it is fully a part of the Kingdom of Norway, Svalbard’s governance and legal framework operate under special conditions. Svalbard is a free economic zone, and military use of the archipelago is restricted.

Coal mining began in Svalbard at the beginning of the twentieth century, and several permanent communities were established. Longyearbyen was founded in 1906 by American businessman John Longyear when he started a mining operation here.

Viking offered two included excursions today. While Tim selected the “Highlights of Longyearbyen,” I picked “Husky Dogs of Camp Barentz,” which was described as follows:

Journey to Camp Barentz in the remote Advent Valley and meet its lovable husky dogs and their musher. Board your motor coach for a scenic drive, pausing for photos at the famous polar bear sign which warns visitors of their possible presence. Upon arrival, meet the adorable huskies and enjoy a presentation about the lives of local mushers and the town’s history. Canines have long been a valued mode of transportation in northern climes, with sled dog teams capable of pulling heavy loads over long distances. Afterward, see Barentz Hus—a replica of the house that William Barentz and his crew built to shield themselves during the winter after discovering Svalbard. Then, step inside the gamme, a traditional Norwegian dwelling centered around an open fire, where you will enjoy a warming beverage and snack as you listen to tales of the “King of the Arctic”—the polar bear.

The drive to the camp was beautiful, with blue skies and fluffy white clouds complementing the snow-covered mountains. When we turned off the main road, we saw snowmobiles parked everywhere, as well as a few reindeer in the distance.

I Loved the Reflections of the Mountains in the Water

Snowmobiles and Reindeer - Common Sights in Svalbard

When we arrived at Camp Barentz, we were given a safety briefing about polar bears by a special guide who was responsible for keeping us safe. Anyone, except tourists, venturing into polar bear territory in Svalbard is required to have the means to scare off a polar bear, meaning flare guns and a firearm. Carrying a firearm is mandatory in Svalbard if one is traveling outside settlements, or safe zones.

Before meeting the very cute huskies, their musher gave us an introduction to the dogs, the various types of sleds, and an insight into the life of a musher and his dogs in the Arctic. Everyone was excited when we were turned loose to hang out with the dogs, who were so friendly and playful.

Arriving at Camp Barentz - Safety Briefing and Presentation About the Huskies

Such Adorable and Friendly Dogs

After touring the replica of Barentz Hus, where William Barentz lived for one winter after “discovering” Svalbard, I was able to observe the musher alone with his dogs. The affection he showed toward them was touching.

Barentz Hus

A Musher and His Dogs

It was then time for pancakes and a warm drink while we watched a presentation on polar bears. Norwegian pancakes are like crepes, and we ate them rolled up with jam. Although most guests chose coffee or tea, I tried the local blackcurrant syrup mixed with hot water. Everything was delicious.

A Very Tasty Break

Before reboarding our motorcoach, we happened to see several reindeer up close, and everyone remained at a safe distance. 

Reindeer!

On our way back to the ship, we passed two fun means of transportation in Svalbard - dogsleds on wheels and ATVs, both of which were offered by Viking as shore excursions.

Dogsleds on Wheels and an ATV

Although I rarely take two excursions in one day anymore, I made an exception today. After sailing on Viking Sky for more than five months, it might seem strange that I would decide to board another boat for an afternoon excursion, but that’s exactly what I did. I had a ticket for an optional excursion, “Catamaran Fjord Safari,” tomorrow, but decided to switch it to today since the weather was so nice and I had no idea what conditions might be like a day from now. This was the description of my excursion:

Get close to nature during an eco-friendly safari by hybrid-electric powered catamaran. Meet your skipper and board your vessel, then settle into your seat for a short safety briefing. Your ship is designed to minimize its footprint in the delicate Arctic environment, and is set over three levels, providing ample space for viewing the scenery and wildlife through panoramic windows. Keep your eyes peeled for reindeer, seals and whales, depending on the season. If you are lucky, you may even spot a polar bear. You will also sail past areas of historic significance along the Isfjord, with an informative narrative provided by your knowledgeable crew. In the comfortable onboard lounge, you will enjoy a warming beverage and a snack, with additional refreshments available to purchase. After your cruise, return to the harbor and your awaiting ship.

We boarded our eco-friendly catamaran, and I claimed a small table next to a large window on the first level. We sailed out of Longyearbyen and into Isfjord on our way across the fjord to see the Borebukta Glacier.

Our Eco-Friendly Catamaran

Our Route Was the One Marked in Blue in the Middle of the Map

Before too long, we began to see small icebergs framed by beautiful mountains, and then our first wildlife sighting – two walruses napping on one of the icebergs. At first, I just saw two brown blobs, so I was happy that the guides with better eyesight, or binoculars, realized that the blobs were alive!

Icebergs

Our First Walrus Sighting

I was especially captivated by three of the mountains in the distance, each with a beautiful design created by the snow and permafrost. The pattern on each mountain was quite different.

I Loved the Different Designs on These Three Adjacent Mountains

The Borebukta Glacier soon came into view, and its length and color were impressive. Borebukta is named after Boreas, the ancient Greek god of the cold northern wind. That suits the area well! 

Borebutka Glacier

As our boat turned around, we were also able to get a better view of the walruses that we had seen just a few minutes before. The boat always maintained a respectful distance from them but remained nearby for quite some time.

The Walruses Managed to Get Up for Us

Since we were near the glacier, the icebergs were considerably larger, and one was so photogenic that the boat circled around it so we could view it from all sides.

A Very Cool Iceberg

As we inched ever closer to the glacier, the views got even better, and it was interesting to see how far the snow-covered ice extended out from the face of the glacier.

I Love Tidewater Glaciers that Terminate in the Sea

Sarah and Ela, One of My Favorite Members of Guest Services

As we began our journey back to Longyearbyen, we spotted two more walruses, lounging on another iceberg. One of them had a broken tusk. Our two onboard guides were great and regaled us with information about all that we were seeing.

Two More Walruses

One Last Photo of an Iceberg in Isfjord

Before we reached Longyearbyen, we made a detour to sail by the former Soviet mining settlement of Grumant, which was established in 1912 and abandoned in 1965. Several of the buildings are still standing.

The Abandoned Buildings of Grumant

We also learned more about the role that coal has played in this region and saw equipment and other remains of mining activity on the way back to our ship.

Mining Equipment and Remains of Coal Mining

It was a perfect day for petting huskies and sailing to a glacier, and I’m glad I decided to switch my tour to this afternoon. Svalbard is a very interesting place, and I’m so glad it was on our itinerary.

Day 160 – Sail the Barents Sea

As we head even farther north, we are sailing the Barents Sea, the gateway to the Arctic from the northernmost shores of Europe. The Barents Sea is a marginal sea of the Arctic Ocean and is located off the northern coasts of Norway and Russia. I learned today that a marginal sea is a sea partially enclosed by islands, archipelagos, or peninsulas.

The Barents Sea is known for its rich marine biodiversity and its importance to the fishing industry. In fact, the sea harbors the largest cod population in the world.

The Barents Sea is also known for a battle that occurred there during World War II. The Battle of the Barents Sea occurred just north of North Cape when the German Navy opened fire on British ships escorting a convoy carrying supplies to the Soviet Union.

Although the battle is not well known, it was the German Navy’s failure to inflict significant losses on the convoy here that enraged Hitler and led to his order to scrap the entire battle fleet and focus only on U-boats.

This was the same battle that was the subject of the plaque that I saw yesterday in the North Cape Hall.

It was a very pleasant sea day, with amazingly calm seas that seemed to change colors as the day progressed.

Beautiful, Calm Seas

Everyone was excited at dinner when someone spotted land again. We are now sailing alongside the snow-covered mountains on the western edge of the Svalbard archipelago as we make our way towards Longyearbyen, where we will be docked for the next two days.

The Snow-Covered Mountains of the Svalbard Archipelago

Day 159 – Honningsvåg, Norway

This morning, we reached Honningsvåg, the northernmost city in mainland Norway. Although this small enclave owes its existence to the bountiful fishing industry that has thrived for ages in the ice-free waters, tourism has also become increasingly important to the town. People are drawn to the area for its dramatic landscape.

One of the most stunning natural sights is Nordkapp, or North Cape, and that’s where Tim and I headed today. Our included excursion, “Drive to North Cape,” was described as follows:

Take in glorious vistas along Europe’s far northern shores and enjoy an independent visit at Nordkapp (North Cape). You will meet your motor coach at our berth and transfer approximately one hour to one of Europe’s most stunning natural sights. Located on the reaches of Magerøya Island where the Norwegian and Barents Seas meet, the cliffs of Nordkapp rise more than 1,000 feet from the sea waters and are topped by a large, flat plateau. Upon arrival, you will have time to take in its spectacular vista of barren tundra. You will have a chance to visit the North Cape Hall, which chronicles the history of the region. Spend time on your own, perhaps visiting the small ecumenical St. John’s Chapel. An excellent film at the visitors’ center depicts the region through the seasons. If you prefer, simply find yourself the perfect overlook and ponder your journey.

I panicked as I boarded the motorcoach when I suddenly realized that I had left my phone charging on the bedside table. Luckily, I was traveling with Tim, who graciously let me use his phone to photograph the day.

On our scenic drive to North Cape, the landscape was dominated by high alpine tundra with its scant vegetation, bare rock, and snowfields. Rugged mountains, icy lakes, and expansive views towards the Barents Sea added to the dramatic scenery.

Gorgeous Scenery on a Gorgeous Day

We soon reached North Cape, a mountain cliff that juts out into the Barents Sea and stands more than 1,000 feet above it. Although North Cape is often said to be the northernmost point on the European mainland, that honor actually goes to the nearby Cape Nordkinn. One can say, however, that North Cape is the northernmost point that can be reached by road.

As soon as we got off the bus, Tim and I and almost everyone on our bus made our way to the end of the cliff where we took our turn posing with the globe monument. Erected in 1978, it has become the symbol for the North Cape. We walked around the cliff and admired the panoramic view. It was breathtaking.

The Globe and Views from North Cape

Sarah and Tim at the (Almost) Northernmost Point

The captain and navigator of an English ship mapped the location of this cliff and named it North Cape in 1553. For the last 300 years, people of all walks of life, including kings and princes, have traveled to North Cape from all over the world. Everyone made the strenuous climb up a steep path, the only way to reach the top of the cliff until the current road opened in 1956. A monument on the site marks the visit of the King of Norway in 1873.

Marking the Northernmost Point

The North Cape Hall offers exhibitions, a film, and restaurants, as well as the lovely ecumenical St. John’s Chapel, designed for contemplation and meditation. There was also an interesting exhibit on the Murmansk Convoys, which was designed to honor the memory of those who took part on land and sea, thereby contributing to the vital continuation of the transport of Allied supplies to the Soviet Union during World War II.

St. John's Chapel

Commemorating the Battle of North Cape

On the drive back to the ship, our guide gave us an insight into the Sami culture. The Sami are the indigenous people of Northern Norway, with a long history and culture rooted in the Arctic region. Traditionally, the Sami relied on reindeer herding, fishing, hunting, and farming. Reindeer herding remains a significant part of their culture and economy, with some families still practicing semi-nomadic herding, as we could observe. We also saw several traditional Sami dwellings, including a goahti, a type of round hut or tent designed to withstand harsh weather conditions. While traditionally used as temporary shelters, goahtis are still used by the Sami people for camping, cultural events, and as a unique form of accommodation.

Evidence of Sami Culture - Goahtis, a Sami on a 4x4, and Reindeer

As we made our way down the mountain toward sea level, we passed more beautiful scenery, as well as a small beach, nicknamed Copacabana by the locals, and a private island that can be reached by foot at low tide. When we reached Honningsvåg, we saw a small example of a traditional drying rack, a device that is still used for drying fish.

Fish Drying Rack, Two Scenic Views, Private Island, and Copacabana

Although I never made it into Honningsvåg, I enjoyed our visit to this port. The scenery was magnificent, and I love the Midnight Sun (a sleep mask is helpful, however).

As we set sail this afternoon, we soon passed by North Cape, and we had panoramic views of the cliff where we had stood earlier today. We could even see the globe!

Sail-Away from Honningsvåg

Sailing Past North Cape - Can You See the Globe on Top of the Cliff?

Day 158 – Tromsø, Norway

Viking Sky arrived in Tromsø, Norway’s most northerly city, this morning. Tromsø is known for its stunning Arctic landscapes and rich history as a trading post and base for Arctic exploration. Although it was cloudy and overcast, the temperature was mild, and no rain was in the forecast.

Sailing into Tromsø

Tim and I decided not to venture too far afield today, so we selected the included excursion, “Panoramic Tromsø,” described as follows:

Witness the unique structures and natural beauty of Tromsø amid its stunning island setting and winter landscapes. Meet your local guide and drive through the city known as the “Gateway to the Arctic”—a starting point for many Arctic expeditions. Tromsø boasts the largest concentration of wooden houses in northern Norway, built here until 1904 at which point wood construction was banned for fear of fire. Throughout the city, you will see classic architecture mingling with modern buildings, including the stunning Arctic Cathedral. With its soaring white roofline, it has been compared to the Sydney Opera House. Admire its triangular interior, a stunning vision in white and icy blue, then continue to the Science Centre of Northern Norway. Here, in the darkened planetarium, marvel at the northern lights during a breathtaking documentary. Afterward, return to your ship via the Tromsø Bridge.

As we left the port, we passed by many of the historic buildings for which Tromsø is known. The center of Tromsø features the largest collection of wooden houses in northern Norway and an important concentrations of Neoclassical style houses. Here, these buildings are made of wood, not stone.

A Few of Tromsø's Historic Houses of Various Styles and Kongsbakken Upper Secondary School (center)

We stopped at the Science Center of Northern Norway, a popular scientific learning and experience center located on the campus of the University of Tromsø, Norway's Arctic University. In the planetarium’s full-dome format, we reclined our seats and watched Extreme Auroras, a film that presented the most spectacular images of the Northern Lights in the Arctic. The photography was spectacular, and we felt as if we were surrounded by the auroras. This is the closest we will come to seeing the Northern Lights, however, since they are not visible during the Midnight Sun.

Science Center of Northern Norway and Extreme Auroras

We next made our way to the building I most wanted to visit, Tromsdalen Church popularly known as the Arctic Cathedral. This modern architectural landmark, completed in 1965, is visible from most locations in Tromsø and was designed by renowned architect Jan Inge Hovig. Hovig's vision was to capture the essence of the Arctic landscape in the cathedral's design, and he was inspired by the surrounding mountains and icebergs. The Return of Christ glass mosaic window dominates the interior.

The Arctic Cathedral

The Interior of the Arctic Cathedral

Our tour continued around the city of Tromsø, past more of the historic wooden houses. We reached the southern tip of the island and even crossed one of the bridges to see a herd of reindeer.

A Few More of Tromsø's Wooden Buildings

The Southern Tip of Tromsø and Reindeer

After circling the island, we returned to the ship by way of the downtown area, past the main shopping street of Storgata, the Tromsø Cathedral, and the Northern Norway Art Museum.

Northern Norway Art Museum, Storgata, and Tromsø Cathedral

I surprised myself after lunch by returning to the center of town for a bit of shopping on Storgata. Although I rarely shop while I travel, I was in desperate need of a new pair of pants. Unlike most passengers, Tim and I have lost weight, and my pants were way too big. I’m certainly not complaining, but today was my best chance to find what I needed. The clothing shops here were lovely, with helpful staff, and I ended up with two pairs. Success!

Day 157 – Lofoten, Norway

After beginning my day at midnight, I was still up earlier than usual. It was very cloudy as we sailed towards the Lofoten Islands, which stretch 118 miles into the Norwegian Sea from Norway’s coast. Lofoten is known for its tall mountains, deep fjords, tiny islands, and picture-perfect fishing villages, and the town of Leknes was our destination today.

Sailing Toward Leknes in the Lofoten Islands and Passing the Buksnes Church

I left the room before Tim to get a cup of tea, and when the elevator door opened, Monica from Guest Services and then Chris from Security were there to wish me a Happy Birthday. The birthday wishes from other crew members kept coming as Tim and I went to breakfast, and I was touched by all of them.

Mike, my favorite bartender, even presented me with two origami eagles perched on wine corks, which he had made. They were amazing, and it was so sweet of him to remember me!

Mike, Sarah, and the Eagles

When Tim and I returned to our room, I found a tray with a bottle of sparkling wine, one of non-alcoholic sparking tea, and a dinner invitation from Hotel General Manager Marcel. Today’s birthday is certainly going to be a memorable one.

Lots of Bubbly!

A Special Birthday Invitation

When Tim left for his morning excursion, the weather was not the greatest, which surprised all of us since we have been enjoying the most amazing weather every single day. The wind and rain did not bode well for my afternoon excursion, “Panoramic Lofoten by Land & Sea,” and I debated whether I should cancel. I hated to miss seeing these beautiful islands, but I still wasn’t feeling my best and did not want to risk getting sicker before this evening. When I heard reports that many people had been seasick on the morning excursion, I knew I would be better off trusting my gut and staying on the ship. So, I spent a pleasant day on board and even took a nap.

Tim and I had invited several friends to join us in the afternoon to share our sparkling wine and tea, and we gathered in the Explorers’ Lounge for bubbly and conversation. I even asked a couple sitting behind us, but whom I had never met, to share a glass with us, and they fit right in. Alasdair asked if we had seen the rainbow from the aft of the ship, and when we said no, he showed us a photo of one of the most beautiful rainbows I’d seen. He generously shared the photo with me to post on the blog.

A Toast with Tim, Sarah, Jane, Ron, Nancy, Carol, and John

A Spectacular Rainbow (photo courtesy of Alasdair Macfarlane)

The weather cleared after our get-together, and we ended up with a beautiful evening.

A Beautiful Evening in the Lofoten Islands

Just before 6:15 pm, Tim and I made our way to our dinner venue and were greeted with a glass of champagne. Associate General Manager Shauvik ushered us into the private dining room where we were serenaded by Hotel General Manager Marcel and many of my favorite officers and crew members. Even Executive Housekeeper Febron, who had disembarked in Bergen, joined us in a video call from his home in India. To say that I was overwhelmed by all the attention is an understatement!

Arriving at My Birthday Dinner and Seeing My Favorite People (photos courtesy of Moa)

Before I go any further, I want to provide a little background on how this evening came about. I was not surprised that the dinner happened; I was only surprised about the details and the guest list.

Several weeks ago, I made a reservation for the private dining room at Manfredi’s for my birthday. Since we had been a little too loud at Nancy’s birthday, I thought we might be “safer” in the private room. John Paul was still the head waiter at the time, and he asked me whom I would like to invite. I couldn’t come up with any names just then, however.

As I walked away, it came to me that I would really like to invite my favorite crew members to my birthday dinner. Although I have made friends on the ship, I continue to feel much closer to the officers and crew, who have become my family. When I spoke with Moa, the Guest Services Manager, about my idea, however, she informed me that the crew is not permitted to dine with passengers.

As we continued to talk, Associate General Manager Shauvik walked by, and Moa mentioned my idea to him. I could see the gears turning around in his head, and without hesitation, he said to leave everything to him. The time and place were set, but everything else would be a surprise. Wow! When he told me to leave everything to him, I could never have imagined what an extraordinary birthday dinner he would arrange for me.

Many of the staff who initially greeted me, including Shauvik, had to return to work, but I so appreciated their taking the time to join me this evening.

Celebrating with Many of My Favorite People - Hotel General Manager Marcel, Cruise Director Cornelia, Stateroom Steward Gusti, Waitress Priya, Guest Services Manager Moa, Bartender Mike,
Guest Services Rep Ramon, Associate General Manager Shauvik, Senior Security Chris, Waitress Sangi,
and Restaurant Manager Asep

Three officers and five crew members remained with Tim and me for dinner, including Hotel General Manager Marcel and Cruise Director Cornelia, who happen to be married, and Guest Services Manager Moa. Marcel had made an exception to allow one crew member from each department to attend my birthday dinner – Ramon, one of my favorite Guest Services members; Priya, my favorite waitress; Mike, my favorite bartender; Gusti, our wonderful Stateroom Steward; and Chris, the friendliest member of the Security team who won’t let me leave or return to the ship without a hug!

Dinner Guests - Cornelia and Marcel; Gusti and Moa; Ramon and Chris; Priya, Sarah, Tim, and Mike

Everything that Marcel and Shauvik have done for me and Tim continues to far exceed any expectation I may have had, and their genuine kindness and thoughtfulness seem to know no bounds. Being able to spend the evening with some of my favorite people in such a warm and loving atmosphere was extraordinary and so very memorable. Viking excels at creating special memories.

The dinner was delicious, and the conversation was delightful. To top things off, Executive Chef Alastair and Executive Pastry Chef Tushar presented me with a beautiful birthday cake, and everyone sang Happy Birthday to me. This birthday dinner was so very special and one I will always treasure.

A Beautiful Birthday Cake - Priya, Chef Alastair, Sarah, Chef Tushar, Tim, and Shauvik

When Tim and I returned to our room, I saw a plate of beautiful chocolate-covered strawberries that had been sent by the team in Guest Services. They are my favorite group of people on the ship.

Chocolate-Covered Strawberries - Yum!!!

I had also waited until then to open the unexpected gift that had been presented to me at dinner. Imagine my surprise when I found a gorgeous bowl designed by Georg Jensen, a silversmith and artist who also designed my flatware. I will always remember this evening whenever I look at it.

I Adore the Bowl