Thursday, November 23, 2023

Happy Thanksgiving, Florentine Style

Tim and I knew we had nothing planned until late this afternoon, so we slept in. I had decided after our trip to France that we wouldn’t push ourselves this time. Nonetheless, I was surprised to see that it was 10:00 am when we finally got up! We showered, and I started hyperventilating as I finished. I couldn’t catch my breath, and it was scary. Tim helped me get back to bed, and I stayed there for quite a while. I started to feel better, but Tim could barely find a pulse on me. Was I dead? No, as it turned out, but I did rest for quite a while.

We had a simple lunch at the hotel and decided to simply take it easy until it was time to leave for a tour we had booked. I was feeling fine by then, and we walked across the Ponte Santa Trinita to the Oltrarno neighborhood, where we met our group at Piazza Santo Spirito.

Crossing the Arno River to Piazza Santo Spirito 

Tim and I had signed up for Devour Tour’s “Oltrarno at Sunset: Florence Food and Wine Tour,” and the experience more than lived up to our expectations. Teddy was a fabulous guide, and the evening was a perfect introduction to Tuscan cuisine. The members of our small group were also a lot of fun.

We began our tour at a laid-back enoteca, or wine bar, located on a quiet back street of the neighborhood. Here, we tried pecorino toscano cheese, a selection of bruschette, and focaccia paired with Chianti Classico.

Teddy and Our Group Enjoying Ourselves at the Enoteca

After this, we experienced one of the quirkiest features of Florence’s food scene – the wine windows. These tiny doors were placed on the facades of palazzos so that aristocrats could sell wine directly to customers. Teddy took us to one of the best in the city, where I ordered a glass of red wine. From there, we stopped at another local favorite enoteca to enjoy some of their excellent wines and a selection of Tuscan charcuterie.

Sarah at One of Florence's Wine Windows

Tim Eyeing His Charcuterie Plate

Now it was time for dinner! We walked to a mom-and-pop restaurant down one of Oltrarno’s tiny hidden streets. Here, we were treated to a hot-off-the-grill Florentine steak, the legendary dish that perfectly captures the city’s love for meat. As we ate, Teddy told us the story of Tuscan food and how it evolved from humble beginnings as cucina povera, or "food of the poor," into one of the world's most beloved cuisines.

Florentine Steak - Delicious!

We topped off our food tour of Florence, the birthplace of gelato, with the city's most famous sweet treat. We followed Teddy to a tiny gelateria that is beloved among Florentines for its seasonal specialties made from organic regional ingredients. What a perfect way to end the evening.

Gelato - Yum!

We said goodbye to our group and crossed back over the river to our hotel. 

Reflections on the Arno River

Before going to our room, Tim and I stopped at the hotel bar, where I tried the hot mulled wine specialty. It was delicious. To our surprise, the staff brought complimentary slices of the Italian version of pumpkin pie to help the Americans celebrate Thanksgiving. What a thoughtful thing to do. Plus, the pie was very good!

A Florentine Thanksgiving!

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