On Board Viking Neptune

Today, Tim and I concluded our pre-cruise extension and prepared to embark on our cruise. After our final breakfast at the hotel, we checked out and boarded our motorcoach for the drive to Civitavecchia, the closest port to Rome.

The drive took about three hours, and I napped most of the way. We said, “See You on the Ship,” to our new friends from the excursion and made our way to check in. Embarkation was easy, and Viking Neptune was waiting for us.

We'll See You on the Ship!

Check-In at the Port of Civitavecchia

Viking Neptune

After our safety demonstration, we ate lunch as we waited for our stateroom to be ready. The announcement came just as we were finishing dessert, so Tim made his way to our cabin, 3044, while I went to make an appointment with the travel consultant.

I forgot take photographs once I stepped into our cabin, but it is identical to the one we had last year. I’ll add a few new photos later. I met Ronny, our room steward, who is from Peru, and he was as helpful as all the crew have been.

My priority for today was booking a future cruise. Yes, I know most people are just happy to begin enjoying the current one, but I had an agenda. Promotions for the cruise we were looking at ended today, and I didn’t know if they’d be extended. So, at 6:00 pm, we met with Wes, the travel consultant, and booked our future cruise. I’ll write a separate post about where we’ll be going in late 2025.

Hill Towns of Tuscany

Although Florence is one of my favorite cities, and I love spending time there, I was excited to leave the city behind and finally get out into the Tuscan countryside. Today, we traveled to Siena and San Gimignano, two of the most charming towns in Tuscany, both of which had captured my heart many years ago. The weather could not have been better.

Siena is one of the best-preserved medieval towns in Italy and is renowned for its stunning architecture and historic center. Our walking tour took us past all the important attractions in town. We strolled from the Palazzo Pubblico, the political and cultural center of Siena, which sits in the impressive Piazza del Campo, one of the most beautiful medieval squares in Europe, to the stunning gothic Duomo and the city’s other churches.

Piazza del Campo and Palazzo Pubblico

The Churches of Siena

In addition to its architecture, Piazza del Campo is known for hosting the Palio di Siena, a thrilling horse race held twice a year. Throughout the city, we saw colorful flags representing the 17 rival contrade, or neighborhoods, of Siena. These are reminders of a distant past that is brought to life during the Palio.

The main sights of Siena are located within a maze of narrow streets and steep alleyways, and it was nice to simply wander from one to the other, gazing at the distinctive buildings and rich architectural details.

Sights in Siena

It was soon time to leave Siena and drive through the lovely Tuscan countryside.

Beautiful Tuscany

We stopped for lunch at Fattoria San Donato, a small medieval village surrounded by the green hills of San Gimignano. The property is now an agriturismo, a type of accommodation in Italy where guests can stay in a rural property and experience the way of life of the Italian countryside.

The property and its setting were gorgeous with incredible views, and our meal was delicious with all locally grown ingredients. I was ready to check in for a long stay.

Lunch at Fattoria San Donato

Fattoria San Donato Has an Amazing Setting

We than drove to San Gimignano, another stunning, medieval hill town in the heart of Tuscany. San Gimignano is known for its skyline of towers and is often called the “Town of Fine Towers” or the “Manhattan of the Middle Ages.” Our walking tour guide pointed out many of these tower houses, and I admired the preservation of the town’s rich architectural heritage.

Some of the Towers of San Gimignano 

Medieval Architecture in San Gimignano 

After walking through the narrow streets and craning our necks upwards, we stopped at Piazza della Cisterna, a square that is enclosed by beautiful brick houses and more towers. This former marketplace features a unique triangular shape, a patterned brick pavement, and an octagonal well at its center from which the piazza gets its name. 

Piazza della Cisterna

Tim and I, as well as most of our group, finished a long day of sightseeing with a special treat – the world’s best gelato! Gelateria Dondoli is tucked away in this charming town and boasts an amazing collection of awards, due in part to the many experimental flavors that the owner has created. I stuck with a classic chocolate, and it was delicious.

The Best Gelato

We returned to Villa Olmi for our final dinner and prepared to leave in the morning to embark on our cruise.

We Had a Great Group!

Our Last Day in Florence

After breakfast at Villa Olmi, Barbara gathered our group together to board a motorcoach for a day in Florence. I was happy to return to that amazing city because there is always something to experience there.

I was surprised, but pleased, when we began our tour with a drive up to Piazzale Michelangelo. It was a different experience today than our earlier afternoon visit, mostly because of the early morning light and fog over the city. I don’t think I could ever get tired of that view.

Florence in the Early Morning Fog

We next crossed the Arno River and were dropped off outside the historic area of Florence to begin our walking tour. Although the tour covered much of what we had already seen, it was a good refresher and offered new insights. Plus, we started with a visit to a new-to-us piazza and spent way more time admiring and learning about the Duomo.

This was my first visit to Piazza della Santissima Annunziata, often said to be the most beautiful and harmonious square in Florence. We learned that this square exemplifies the ideals of Renaissance architecture with works by some of the greatest artists and architects of the period. The piazza is surrounded on three sides by balanced porticoes, and I was especially intrigued by some of the details. At the center of the square is the equestrian statue of Grand Duke Ferdinando I.

Piazza della Santissima Annunziata

The Buildings Surrounding Piazza della Santissima Annunziata

We next walked the short distance to the Duomo, where we also admired Giotto’s Bell Tower and the Baptistry, with Ghiberti's beautiful doors that Michelangelo called the “Gates of Paradise.”

The Duomo

The Duomo, Bell Tower, and Baptistry

Ghiberti's "Gates of Paradise"

We continued our tour through the city’s many piazzas, passing some of our favorite places, and were treated to a different view of Ponte Vecchio. We were then on our own for lunch and had the afternoon free to explore the city.

Favorite Sites in Florence

During the afternoon, Tim and I considered touring the Duomo, but the lines were just too long, and it was unlikely we would be able to get tickets. Instead, we decided on the Basilica of Santa Croce, where we visited the “dead people,” as Tim referred to all the tombs and funerary monuments inside the church. I was surprised to find that Machiavelli, Galileo, and Michelangelo, to name just a few, were all buried there.

The Basilica of Santa Croce

A Sampling of the Funerary Monuments and Tombs of the Famous "Dead People"

The Interior of Santa Croce

By the time we finished our tour, it was time to proceed to Villa Machiavelli, a fifteenth-century estate that was once the home of Niccolò Machiavelli, whose tomb we had just seen. As soon as we arrived, we toasted the evening with a glass of Blumond Blue Bubbly, a brilliant blue prosecco. I had never heard of a blue wine, but the color was beautiful and the wine very tasty.

After wandering through several of the rooms where Machiavelli lived, and seeing historic wine cellars that dated back to his era, we sat down to a delicious dinner featuring Tuscan specialties.

Our Evening at Villa Machiavelli

After returning to our hotel, Tim and I learned that we had missed eight inches of snow at home over the Thanksgiving holiday weekend. One more reason to appreciate our stay in Italy!

Ultimate Italy--Tuscany – Our Pre-Cruise Extension

Tim and I ordered room service for breakfast and then finished packing for the next phase of our trip, our pre-cruise extension entitled “Ultimate Italy – Tuscany.” 

Leaving Il Tornabuoni after Breakfast

We were so appreciative that Viking’s local tour operator had arranged for a driver to pick us up and take us to our hotel. John arrived promptly at 11:00 am, and we drove the short distance to Villa Olmi Firenze, our hotel for the next three nights.

Villa Olmi was a replacement for our original hotel. Unfortunately, Villa Il Poggiale, where we had been scheduled to stay, had closed for renovations. Since Villa Olmi is so close to Florence, we missed the originally planned day in Tuscany, with a stop for lunch at a farmhouse and a drive through the Chianti region’s scenic countryside on the way to Villa Il Poggiale. Oh well, we just go with the flow.

Villa Olmi, a restored eighteenth-century estate, was quite nice, but it didn’t compare to the photos we had seen of the other hotel. It was, however, tastefully decorated for Christmas. I would also imagine the formal Italian gardens would be beautiful at the right time of year.

Villa Olmi Firenze

We Enjoyed the Christmas Decorations

Our Room

Tim and I were some of the first to arrive, and we ate lunch with two other couples. Bonnie and Dick were lots of fun, and we learned that they live in Cheyenne, Wyoming, so close to us. The other couple seemed odd, and we soon realized that she had dementia, and he wasn’t in much better shape. We would later name them Mr. and Mrs. W. 

Although flights for many of the others were delayed by snow in Frankfort, most everyone arrived in time for dinner at the hotel. There, we met Barbara, our tour director, and learned that there were only 20 in our group, a manageable number. We also saw Mary and Dick, with whom we had cruised last year.

Mr. and Mrs. W were in the room next to us, and she walked the halls all night, knocking on people’s doors. There was also lots of yelling coming from their room, which kept me awake. In the morning, we heard even more stories, which only added to the drama.

Shopping and Galileo

Today was the Florence Marathon, and the streets were mobbed with runners, spectators, and many, many tourists. Tim and I had another late breakfast of cappuccino and croissants at a tiny café where we could sit inside. Inside seating was a rare commodity today, and since it was cold out, we especially appreciated it. 

Although Tim and I rarely shop when we travel (unlike me in my previous life!), we do indulge in a bit of shopping from time to time.  That’s what we did this morning. We were both looking for traditional items for which Florence is known.

I was on the hunt for marbled paper products, and I found the same store where I had shopped oh so many years ago when I first visited Florence. Tim had hoped to find a leather belt, and he was successful. The couple at the leather shop was so friendly, and we enjoyed talking with them as the owner customized Tim’s belt for him.

A Productive Shopping Experience

We had no tours booked for today, so I asked Tim what he was in the mood for. The Galileo Museum was his choice for this afternoon, and it was a good one. This science museum, dedicated to Galileo, houses one of the most important collections of scientific instruments in the world.

The museum is one of Florence’s lesser-known spaces and was not at all crowded. It was so nice to enjoy the exhibits without people blocking our views. Although the odd instruments were interesting, I especially enjoyed the various globes.

Do You Know What These Instruments Measured?

I Loved the Various Globes

After walking back to the hotel and taking a short nap, we then had to decide – should we go out to dinner? We were tired, but hungry, and ultimately decided to take the easy route by having dinner at our hotel. Although we did not take advantage of the many fabulous restaurants in Florence, I was okay with that decision. The food at our hotel was excellent, and convenience for me was more important.

Tina was working behind the bar, and I wanted to stop to say goodbye. I was not going to drink, just chat for a bit. We had a nice conversation, and I was also able to say goodbye to Adorno before he left. A guest had ordered an espresso martini, and I enjoyed watching Tina make it. Apparently, there was a bit left over in the shaker, and Tina presented it to me. How sweet and thoughtful. 

I repeated my observation from last night about how special interacting with the staff had been, and I truly believe that Tina and Sergio, who had waited on us previously, were touched by what I said.

It was soon time to head upstairs. We have an early day tomorrow, plus I needed to pack for the next phase of our trip.

Florence Is for Art Lovers

This morning, Tim and I were “forced” to get up early to make it to our tour meeting point by 10:00 am. Yes, I know, that’s not early, but it has been for us. We skipped breakfast at the hotel and stopped at a small café for coffee and croissants. That was a much more appropriate breakfast than what we had at the hotel yesterday.

For anyone who loves art, Florence is a perfect city to visit. The city is filled with museums, but the Academia and the Uffizi Galleries are clearly the stars. Tim and I had originally planned to tour the museums on our own, but a few days ago, I decided to book a tour. Walks of Italy offers a “Florence In A Day with David, Duomo, Uffizi and Walking Tour,” and that’s what we signed up for. A walking tour in addition to the museums sounded like a perfect idea.

We met our guide and started our tour at the Academia Gallery, where we “met” Michelangelo’s David. Our guide, whose name I unfortunately cannot remember, filled us in on the genius behind the sculpture and its significance. She also gave us an insight into Michelangelo’s methods when we viewed the unfinished Slaves sculptures.

Michelangelo's David

One of the Slaves, and Rape of the Sabines by Giambologna

After a short time on our own at the Academia, we then began our walking tour, starting at the Duomo, Florence’s grand cathedral, with its magnificent Renaissance dome designed by Filippo Brunelleschi. We continued on, exploring the winding streets and art-strewn piazzas that give the city its distinct character. We stopped at the famous Palazzo Vecchio and spent time admiring the beautiful outdoor sculptures at Piazza Della Signoria.

Walking Tours Can Be Tiring!

Palazzo Vecchio and Piazza Della Signoria

After breaking for lunch, we walked across the Ponte Vecchio, the city’s only bridge spared from destruction during World War II. Sadly, the experience was nothing like I remembered from my last visit. To me, the bridge, with its shops over and across the span, is the definition of a tourist trap. Next time, I’ll skip walking across the bridge and just admire its beauty from afar.

Our View of the Ponte Vecchio on Yesterday's Tour (top), with Today's Walk Across the Bridge

It was then time for our visit to the Uffizi Gallery, where it was so nice to skip the long lines waiting to get in, certainly one advantage of joining a tour.

Uffizi Gallery from the River, and Its Beautiful Painted Ceilings

Our guide, a passionate art historian, gave us an amazing lesson in the history of art, explaining and demonstrating how painting techniques developed over the course of several centuries. She led us through a series of paintings that illustrated how the flat, two-dimensional paintings of the Medieval era evolved into the beautiful three dimensions of the Renaissance.

I found it interesting to learn later on that most guides seem to follow this same sequence of paintings, so I decided it might be fun to include all of the paintings we viewed in chronological order.  I won't, however, identify each one.

We Saw the Evolution of Painting from the Early 1300s to the Mid-1400s

Botticelli's Paintings Are So Well-Known and Were My Favorites

We Progressed from Works by Leonardo da Vinci to Michelangelo to Raphael to Titian

We Ended Our Tour with Works by Gentileschi, Caravaggio, and Van Honthorst

Since Tim and I had split a sandwich for lunch, I was hungry after our tour, and I talked him into stopping for antipasti. We ordered two selections, not realizing how extensive they would be. I had been missing fresh fruit, and the melon with prosciutto was especially welcome. Our shared “cold cuts” plate was outrageous, but so good. I started with a glass of house wine and ended up asking for a “refill.” There was no way we could finish our plate, and we offered it to the folks who had sat down next to us. We had started a conversation with them, and we were happy to share. They seemed to enjoy it.

So Much Food! We Kept an Eye on the Case of Florentine Steaks While We Ate!

I never in a million years thought I would spend our last two nights in a bar, but that’s exactly what we did. The bar at our hotel had become a favorite place to occupy our evenings. Since we had a huge selection of antipasti earlier, we were so full that we didn’t need to eat dinner. After resting for a while, we headed back downstairs to the hotel bar. Once again, we sat at the bar, and Adorno was the head mixologist tonight. We had an amazing time with him, watching him make our special mocktails and cocktails. 

To top things off, he mentioned that he had always wanted to make a tiramisu cocktail, and we encouraged him to do so tonight. He ordered a tiramisu desert and used half of it to start the drink. Watching him perfect the recipe and instruct Oliver on what should be added was fascinating. He made it up as he went along, including a fire episode, and the result was beautiful, as well as delicious. He also served it in one of his grandmother’s special glasses.

How To Make a Tiramisu Cocktail

Pasquale, the bar manager, came by frequently, and he supported everything the bartenders were doing. I invited him to sample my drink, and he agreed that it was perfection.

It’s funny how things turn out. Although I will always remember the beauty, history, and art of Florence, one of my most favorite memories will be the interaction we had with the restaurant and bar staff at our hotel. It was such a personal experience and one that I will treasure. Who would have thought?

Touring Florence by Golf Cart

When visiting a new city, Tim and I often like to take an overview tour to get a feel for the place and see its highlights. When we are on a cruise, this option is typically by motorcoach. In Florence, we selected a tour with a unique means of transportation.

Although I was familiar with Florence, this was Tim’s first visit, so I looked for an option that would cover more ground than a walking tour. I happened to find Eco Tours Italia, a company that offers tours in electric golf carts. What a great idea, especially since motorcoaches are not allowed in many historic areas of the city. What sold me on the tour I finally selected is that we would visit Piazzale Michelangelo. Located on a hill on the south bank of the Arno River, this site offers the iconic view of the city of Florence. I had always wanted to visit there, and getting there by golf cart would be perfect.

Francesco was our tour guide, and Tim and I were his only two passengers. What a bonus, a private tour! We passed by many of Florence’s most historic sites, and Francesco provided insightful commentary. Although he gave us ample opportunities to take photos, I took very few until we crossed the river.

Famous Sites of Florence

Tim and Sarah on the Arno River with the Ponte Vecchio in the Background

We soon drove along fourteenth-century walls and through an arched gate to begin our climb up the long, winding road to Piazzale Michelangelo, passing a group of monks. Along the way, we admired Poggi’s Ramps, a complex of manmade grottoes, basins, fountains, arches, walkways, and stairs, before reaching our intended destination.

The Drive Up to Piazzale Michelangelo

The view from Piazzale Michelangelo was everything I had hoped for. It didn’t hurt that the day was gorgeous, and the late afternoon light was magical. Here, I couldn’t stop clicking my camera.

Iconic Views of Florence

After tearing ourselves away from the view, we then continued farther up the hill to see the church of San Miniato al Monte, a beautiful Romanesque Basilica atop one of the highest points in the city. All too soon, it was time to return to our starting point.

San Miniato al Monte

The tour was a fun and relaxing way to see the highlights of Florence, and it was quite a memorable experience. Francesco was a hoot, singing to us and regaling us with stories about what we were seeing the entire time. He, alone, was worth the price of admission!

Francisco, Tim, and Our Golf Cart

Since we hadn’t eaten lunch, I was hungry, so we stopped on the way back to our hotel and had a pizza, which I had been craving since last night. It was a perfect late afternoon snack, and it turned out to be our dinner as well.

After returning to our hotel, we decided to head directly to the hotel bar. This time, we decided to sit at the bar, and we are so glad we did. Tina was the bartender, and we asked her to select our drinks. She made a mocktail for Tim and decided that I should have a La Dolce Vita (vanilla-infused vodka, fermented passion fruit liqueur, fresh passion fruit puree, fresh lemon juice, and vanilla syrup). Watching her make the drinks was pure entertainment. She really put on a floor show, and we loved it (and the drinks!).

Tina and Our Delicious Concoctions