Rambling Chronicles: Day 43 – Brown Station, Antarctica

Today was an extraordinary one in every way imaginable, and it may well be my favorite day of this amazing cruise. The day began, as always, when I opened the blinds and my jaw nearly dropped. Not only did I see the most dramatic, glaciated mountains surrounding our ship, but I witnessed the brightest, bluest sky in memory.

Viking Octantis was anchored in Paradise Bay, which is the most apt description I’ve heard. Paradise Bay is one of Antarctica's wonders, a frozen landscape that is frequented by whales and penguins. We were here not only for the beauty of the landscape, but also for a landing at Brown Station, an Argentine Antarctic base and scientific research station.

Before Tim and I landed at Brown Station, however, we embarked on an SOB excursion around the bay. I was entranced by the glassy, mirror-like water and blue sky that created double images of the mountains and glaciers. Our pilot maneuvered our vessel around the icebergs and sea ice, and he ventured as close to shore as possible to see the penguin colonies.

Mirrored Images in Paradise Bay

Gorgeous Glaciers and Towering Ice Cliffs

Gentoo Penguins

Viking Octantis Was Dwarfed by the Towering, Glaciated Mountains

After an hour’s break, Tim and I boarded our zodiac for a landing on the rocky point at Brown Station. Exiting and later re-entering the zodiac was a bit more challenging here, but we made it.

Brown Station

A Rather Challenging Landing at Brown Station

The Expedition Team had planted a flag of Antarctica on shore, and everyone lined up for photo ops.

Tim and Sarah in Antarctica

Viking Antarctic Expedition

There were lots of Gentoo penguins at the station, and we were even able to see one penguin walk down the penguin highway. How cute!

Gentoo Penguins and a Walk on the Penguin Highway

After a less-than-graceful entry into the zodiac, we made it back to Viking Octantis to prepare for our early departure. It should come as no surprise that the scenery during the sail-away was gorgeous.

Viking Octantis Looked So Beautiful in Paradise Bay

Sailing Away from Paradise Bay

We were not finished for the day. In fact, additional destinations awaited us. The first was a stop at Port Lockroy, one of Antarctica’s most iconic locations. Historically, Port Lockroy was a British research station, but it is managed today by the UK Antarctic Heritage Trust. It features the world's most southerly operating post office in the world.

Port Lockroy

Representatives from the station gave a talk about living and working in Antarctica, as well as the activities of the UK Antarctic Heritage Trust. The Trust protects and preserves six historic bases along the Antarctic Peninsula, as well as the Endurance shipwreck. These bases, built between the 1940s and 1970s, are considered the missing link between the Heroic Era structures of Scott and Shackleton and the modern-day scientific stations.

The Projects of the Nonprofit UK Antarctic Heritage Trust

The souvenir shop that the Trust set up on our ship did a booming business, and the line snaked around Deck 2 for more than an hour. One of the offerings was the Port Lockroy seal, and some guests stamped their passports. I didn’t stamp my passport, but I did donate 10£ for the seal on a postcard.

Port Lockroy, Antarctica

Another surprise of the day awaited us at dinner in the World Café, where Executive Chef Beni and his team presented an Argentinian feast. Tim and I indulged in everything including empanadas, chimichurri steak, chorizo, and tiger shrimp. The food was so good that I even went back for seconds. This was one of my favorite dinners of the cruise.

An Argentinian Feast

Our day began with the incredible beauty of Paradise Bay and ended with a scenic transit through the equally stunning Lemaire Channel. As we made our way through this narrow passage, we gazed up at the towering cliffs and glaciers that reflected in the mirror-like water. Lemaire Channel is one of the most photographed spots on the continent and has earned the nickname "Kodak Alley." The channel certainly lived up to that reputation tonight.