Day 30 – Ushuaia, Argentina

Tim and I awoke this morning in Ushuaia, Argentina, the "City at the End of the World," as Viking Octantis had arrived here late yesterday evening. Today was a turnaround day, when most passengers disembarked and were replaced by new passengers. This is the second turnaround day we’ve experienced, and our cruise has a different feeling because of this type of change every two weeks.

Welcome to Ushuaia

Ushuaia, the southernmost city in the world, is located between the Beagle Channel, which we sailed yesterday, and the southernmost slopes of the Andes Mountains. I found it amusing that Punta Arenas, which we visited several days ago, also likes to describe itself as the southernmost city. Punta Arenas does add a modifier to the designation, however – it’s the southernmost large city. It seems that every city must have some claim to fame.

Ushuaia, Argentina

While Tim decided to take the included excursion to explore the panoramic sights of Ushuaia, I opted for a six-hour excursion to see the mountain vistas of the Fuegian Andes. The excursion, entitled “Scenic Drive to the Escondido and Fagnano Lakes,” was described as follows:

Marvel at the beauty of Argentinian nature on this scenic drive to the lakes and forests of the Fuegian Andes. Ushuaia, commonly referred to as the southernmost city in the world, is located in a wide bay along the southern coast of Tierra del Fuego Island, surrounded by mountains and areas of outstanding natural beauty. Enjoy a scenic drive as you travel along the Pan-American Highway toward the north side of the island. Admire the view of the region’s lakes and valleys as you make your way across the Fuegian Andes, climbing to an elevation of nearly 1,500 feet at the famous Garibaldi Pass. Continue your journey to Lake Escondido and Lake Fagnano, where you will have time to take in the views or go on a short forest trail walk before lunch. A perfect combination of ocean vistas and lush green landscapes, offering stunning photographic opportunities and refreshing relaxation.

We left the city behind and began our drive on the Pan-American Highway, the world's longest road network, connecting Prudhoe Bay in Alaska to the tip of Argentina in Ushuaia. We entered Tierra del Fuego National Park, which features a diverse landscape of mountains and forests, and where we would spend the day.

The mountain range around us was the Fuegian Andes, the southernmost and terminal portion of the Andes mountain range. We learned that the Fuegian Andes were the result of one of the most dramatic geological processes occurring on Earth today—the ongoing collision between the Nazca Plate and the South American Plate. This struggle began approximately 200 million years ago during the Jurassic Period and continues to this day, creating a zone of intense seismic activity and volcanic eruptions that extends along the entire western edge of South America.

However the mountains were created, I found their jagged mountain peaks to be quite dramatic and beautiful, and I loved climbing ever higher. At the base of the mountains, in the wide valley bottoms, we saw peat bogs that were carved by glaciers and later became shallow ponds or swampy areas. These play a crucial role in the region’s ecology.

Scenery Along the Pan-American Highway

Before long, we reached Garibaldi Pass, the only road pass that crosses the Fuegian Andes and the southernmost road crossing of the Andes mountains. The panoramic view of the surrounding landscape from the pass was stunning. Two large glacial lakes, Lake Escondido, or Hidden Lake, in the foreground and Lake Fagnano behind, were surrounded by steep mountain peaks. It was a picture-postcard view, and everyone tried to capture the perfect shot.

View from Garibaldi Pass, with the Pan-American Highway on the Right

Spectacular Mountain Landscape

Lake Escondido in the Foreground and Lake Fagnano in the Background

We then descended to the low mountain valley, where we detoured to the edge of Lake Fagnano. The water was cold!

Lake Fagnano

It was soon time to retrace our route back to Ushuaia. On the way, we stopped for lunch at Las Cotorras, where we had a traditional meal of lamb that was slow roasted on an iron cross over an open fire, along with salad and potatoes. An Argentinian malbec was the perfect accompaniment.

Our Lunch Featured Argentinian Lamb

After a bowl of ice cream, we were treated to a cup of the most amazing coffee, known as “mountain coffee” or “monkey coffee.” This hot, alcoholic beverage originated in Ushuaia and includes coffee and various alcoholic drinks and spices. The coffee is prepared in a giant kettle and heated over a wood fire. It was delicious.

Café de la Montaña

As we returned to Ushuaia, we had expansive views of the Beagle Channel, where Viking Octantis was docked. Many of us got off in town to do a little exploration on our own. I passed many of the city’s historic buildings, many of which are now museums, and was surprised to see so many spring flowers. Yes, it is spring in South America.

Beagle Channel

End of the World Museum (top left), Old Government House (top right), Maritime and Prison Museum of Ushuaia (bottom left), and Provincial Legislature Building (bottom right)

It's Spring in Ushuaia

My favorite site in the city was the Monument of Ancient People and Pioneers of Ushuaia, a large, swooping albatross containing bas-relief sculptures that represent various aspects of the city’s history. This monument pays tribute to both the indigenous peoples who lived in Tierra del Fuego for millennia and the later settlers who shaped the city's history.

Monument of Ancient People and Pioneers of Ushuaia

Bas-Relief Sculptures Around the Outside of the Monument Depicting Scenes of the Early Settlers (top and center right, and bottom left), and the Indigenous Peoples Inside the Monument (bottom right)

After returning to the ship, I began to get ready for an early dinner at Manfredi’s. Tim and I watched the Daily Briefing, where the Expedition Team was introduced to the new passengers. Several new team members also boarded the ship today, and I look forward to meeting them.

The Expedition Team Continues to Grow

Since Viking Octantis remained in port until 11:00 pm, I was able to enjoy the views of the city and Beagle Channel as the light changed. It was a wonderful day, and I so enjoyed getting out into the Argentine countryside.

Farewell, Ushuaia