Day 32 – Port Stanley, Falkland Islands

Today, Viking Octantis was scheduled to visit West Point Island in the Falkland Islands, but the Captain had previously determined that conditions would not permit our landing there. Instead, he moved up the schedule, and we arrived this morning in Stanley, previously known as Port Stanley, the capital of the Falkland Islands.

Welcome to The Falkland Islands

The Falkland Islands, referred to as The Falklands, is an archipelago in the South Atlantic Ocean known for its remote location and unique wildlife like penguins and albatrosses. The Falklands is a British Overseas Territory with a self-governing population of British descent.

I was excited to see the first penguins of our trip, so Tim and I had selected an included excursion, “Penguins of Bluff Cove Lagoon,” described as follows:

Discover the thriving penguin population and abundant bird species of Bluff Cove Lagoon, a private wildlife haven. Board a minibus and admire the stark landscape as you embark on a scenic drive to the penguin rookery. Set against the backdrop of a large lagoon and white-sand beaches, this pristine nature reserve is home to more than 1,000 breeding pairs of gentoo penguins and a growing colony of king penguins. Observe penguin life and keep watch for the many other birds that frequent the beach, including terns, geese and skuas. Afterward, head to the famous Sea Cabbage Café, where your hosts will serve you complimentary hot beverages and delicious home-baked treats while you sit next to a peat stove and enjoy panoramic views of the beach. You may also explore the gift shop to learn more about the history of the Falkland Islands, or browse for mementos.

It was very windy, with rain in the forecast, as we tendered ashore. Just before we boarded our van, it did begin to rain, and my photos through the window include raindrops. Our drive took us through a landscape characterized by rolling hills, open plains, and mountainous terrain.

Tim Was Ready for the Cold and Wind

Scenery Along the Way to Bluff Cove

Our guide described what we were seeing, including a quirky roadside feature dubbed “Boot Hill.” At one point, a single boot was found and put on a stake. Over the years, many other boots were added, and the collection continues to grow.

Boot Hill

As we turned onto the road leading to Bluff Cove, we saw a mass of boulders in the field. Our guide explained that this was a stone run, a geological phenomenon of great angular boulder accumulations created over 100,000 years ago. When Charles Darwin visited the Falkland Islands, he called the stone runs a “stream of stones.”

A Stone Run or "Stream of Stones"

Our destination today was Bluff Cove Lagoon, which is part of a 35,000 sheep and cattle ranch. Before reaching the cove, we learned that sheep have the right-of-way.

Sheep Have the Right-of-Way on the Ranch

Once we arrived at our destination, Tim and I began to see a few penguins in the distance. These were rookeries of Gentoo penguins. They were difficult to see, since most were lying down.

A Rookery of Gentoo Penguins

Before we knew it, however, several King penguins strutted quite close to us. What majestic birds they are. In fact, they are the second largest penguins after the Emperor. Of course, we kept our distance so as not to disturb them, but we couldn’t take our eyes off them.

Regal King Penguins

In addition to the adult penguins, we also saw several King penguin chicks that were about one year old. The chicks were covered in a mass of fluffy brown down, and at first, we thought they were a separate species. No, we learned. That’s just what chicks look like until they begin to molt this summer and lose their down.

King Penguins and Their Chicks

Watching the penguins was difficult, however, since the winds were so fierce and the rain was still falling. It was even sleeting for a bit. Needless to say, it was freezing cold.

As a result, Tim and I didn’t stick around as long as I would have liked and instead headed to our next viewing area. Along the rocky shore, we saw a large colony of King penguins and a few chicks. After snapping a few photos, we hurried to the the Sea Cabbage Café and Gift Shop to get out of the weather.

More King Penguins Along the Water's Edge

The cream tea in the café was a welcome treat, as was our table next to the warmth of the peat stove. We were offered two homemade cakes and cookies, and I took our guide’s suggestion and requested a scone with cream and Diddle Dee jam. This jam was made from the wild Diddle Dee berries that were gathered in the autumn on the farm hills. I was tempted to purchase a jar to take home.

A Welcome Treat

After resting for a while and warming up, I walked down to the beach to see the Gentoo penguins that were hanging out around the lagoon. Although I loved the King penguins, the Gentoos stole my heart. Although most were lying down, a few waddled their way to the water for a swim. They were so cute!

The Gentoo Penguins Were So Cute

Penguins were not the only animals that we saw. There were lots of very cute lambs and their mothers that kept a close eye on their offspring.

The Lambs Were Also Very Cute

We also saw many pairs of Upland geese that mate for life. Males are white, and females are russet brown.

Upland Geese

Even though the rain had stopped and the sun had come out by the time we returned to Stanley, I was ready to catch the tender back to the ship

At the Daily Briefing, Expedition Leader Olivia commented on the windy weather and said that gusts on the bridge had reached 46 knots. She also passed along an observation that we had experienced all four seasons in one day. It was never summer where I was, but I might go along with the other three. Olivia also showed a magnet with a saying that encompassed everything about the weather in The Falklands, as well as expeditions in general. How true!

An Expedition Weather Forecast

This evening, Specialist Chris presented a lecture on “The Falklands War.” I remembered little about this conflict, so his talk was an excellent refresher. Spoiler alert: the British defeated the Argentinians.

The Falklands War