Day 36 – Grytviken, South Georgia

It appeared as though everyone on the ship was excited about today’s destination since we would be going ashore in Grytviken on South Georgia Island. Grytviken was a historic settlement and South Georgia’s first permanent whaling station, which operated between 1904 and 1966. Located in King Edward Cove, a sheltered part of Cumberland East Bay, it is considered the best harbor on the island.

We learned more about Grytviken this morning at a lecture by a South Georgia Museum team member. The heritage and environmental conservation projects undertaken on South Georgia are a true success story, but the work is ongoing with more projects planned.

South Georgia Museum Presentation

Before heading to Grytviken, however, Tim and I had an excursion on an SOB, which took us in the opposite direction. Kelly, one of the Expedition Team members, wanted us to see a massive iceberg, as well as the beautiful Nordenskjöld Glacier. Our SOB circled the iceberg, giving us a close look at this incredible, sculpted piece of ice.

An Iceberg and a Glacier

In the afternoon, it was time for Tim and me to visit Grytviken, where we had a wet zodiac landing. Those big, heavy black boots sure came in handy. A welcoming committee was waiting for us, including several Expedition Team members and two fur seals.

Approaching Grytviken

A Three Part Panorama of Grytviken

Zodiac Landing and Our Welcoming Committee

Welcome to South Georgia

Tim and I joined a walking tour of Grytviken offered by the museum. Our guide related the history of the whaling station, the way of life for those who lived there, and the recent work that has been completed on the site. 

Following an extensive environmental cleanup, only a handful of original buildings and the rusting machinery used to process whale oil remain. The buildings that housed the machinery were some of those that were removed.

Church, Worker Barracks, Manager's Villa, Provisions Store, and Bakery and Coffee Roasting House

Whale Processing Machinery, Formerly Housed Inside Buildings

Grytviken Whaling Station Site Plan

The Manager’s Villa, which was built after 1914, was the administrative center for the Grytviken whaling station. It originally contained the offices and living quarters for the Manager and his senior staff and is now the home of the South Georgia Museum. The exhibits were very well done.

Manager's Villa, Now the South Georgia Museum

The Main Store, the oldest and largest remaining historic building, has also been restored, and we were able to tour the interior. The building contains the original whalers’ stores, which included all essential tools used by whalers for the hunting and production process. There were also thousands of spare parts used to maintain and repair the factory, boilers, and vessels.

Main Store

Several boats and ships, including the whale-catcher Petrel, line the shore.

Ships Along the Shoreline

Grytviken also contains a cemetery on the hillside. Ernest Shackleton, who died off the coast of South Georgia in 1922, is buried here. His is the only grave that faces south towards Antarctica.

Grytviken Cemetery and Ernest Shackleton's Grave

Visitors come to Grytviken not only for the history of the whaling station. The wildlife is also a big draw. It was very cool to see fur and elephant seals and their pups lounging around the machinery. They were quite at home there. We tried to keep our distance from them, but they didn’t seem to mind our presence.

The Wildlife Is Quite Comfortable Here

So Many Fur and Elephant Seals and Their Pups

King Penguins and Antarctic Pintails Could Also Be Seen

Grytviken really does have it all – fascinating history, delightful wildlife, and beautiful scenery. Tim and I thoroughly enjoyed our visit there.

Sarah and Tim at the South Georgia Museum

We returned to the ship where we were treated to an interesting experience. As soon as we walked inside, we were ordered to face the wall and place our hands above our heads. Excuse me? Were we under arrest? No, we were about to be decontaminated. Our boots and waterproof pants were sprayed with a high-pressure hose, after which we were required to walk through a boot-disinfectant tank. Biosecurity is a top priority on Viking expedition ships, and we will repeat this procedure after every landing.

Viking Octantis Waiting for Our Return

Decontamination Process

At the Daily Briefing this afternoon, Expedition Leader Olivia reported on the comprehensive inspection conducted this morning by South Georgia Government officials. She proudly noted that the final report complimented our efforts regarding biosecurity and stated that we are performing to the highest of standards. High praise indeed!

Our beautiful day featured perfect weather, which is a rarity in Grytviken. As we sailed away under partially blue skies, we had another lovely view of the Nordenskjöld Glacier.

A Final Look at Nordenskjöld Glacier