Day 14 – Sailing the Pacific Ocean

Tim and I are using the excuse of losing an hour of sleep last night as the reason we didn’t get up until 10:00 am. Such lazy bums, but it was so delicious to sleep in!

I did manage, however, to attend the Bridge Tour. This was another behind-the-scenes tour, and we learned how the officers get us where we’re going safely.

Bridge Tour

We have been blessed with calm seas and wonderful weather since we boarded Viking Octantis in Fort Lauderdale. Yesterday, however, we started to feel a bit of motion, and today, we are rocking and rolling. We’ve certainly experienced worse, but it was a bit of a shock since things had been so good for so long.

Between working on the blog post for Lima and planning a special event, the afternoon and evening slipped away. Tim and I did take time to enjoy the Wine and Cheese Special Event in the World Café. It was a perfect dinner for us.

A Beautiful Cheese Display, and Good Wine

Day 13 – Sailing the Pacific Ocean

We are continuing our journey down the west coast of South America and will have two sea days before reaching our first port in Chile.

At breakfast this morning, another favorite waitress from the World Cruise spotted me, and Grace and I had a wonderful reunion.  I think that makes about ten crew members who sailed with us on Viking Sky.

Sarah and Grace

I enjoy behind-the-scenes tours, so I signed up for the Laundry Tour to “discover the magic behind fresh linens and spotless towels.” Executive Housekeeper Goran showed us the wonderful machine that dries and folds all the sheets, and he explained the various laundry processes and protocols that Viking follows. We also peeked into the linen room where all the clean items are stored.

Executive Housekeeper Goram, the Wonderful Sheet Drying and Folding Machine,
and the Linen Closet

The ship’s Laundry Master then led us through the process of cleaning and pressing both guest and crew laundry. Although many items, such as shirts, are still ironed by hand, my favorite machine steam presses some shirts and jackets. When in use, it looks as though the jacket is being blown up! For the first time, I saw a similar machine that does the same thing to pants.

The Laundry Master, My Two Favorite Machines, and Ironing by Hand

Next up was a Viking Octantis Officers' Roundtable where we learned about life onboard the ship. The officers fielded lots of questions and elicited a few laughs.

Officers' Roundtable

The time changed tonight, and we had to set our clocks forward. Losing an hour is not nearly as nice as gaining one!

Day 12 - Lima, Peru

We arrived this morning at our only port-of-call in Peru. Tim and I were looking forward to our visit to Lima today, since we’ll only have a very short time in this city during our trip to Peru after the completion of our cruise.

Welcome to Peru

For a change, Tim and I both selected the included excursion, “Best of Lima,” to learn about antiquities and architecture. This was the description:

Gain a deeper understanding of Lima’s history by viewing its ancient art and exploring its colonial structures. Board your motor coach and drive to the Larco Museum, a colonial mansion built atop a pre-Columbian, 7th-century pyramid. As you walk up to the museum, take in the colorful flowers that populate its garden. Once inside, uncover 5,000 years of ancient Peruvian history as you walk through their extensive collections, including Mochica Portrait Bottles and pre-Hispanic gold and silver works. Continue driving through the streets of Lima to Santo Domingo Church. Here, you will see its Rococo-style belltower and wander through its ornate turquoise and gold interior. Finally, stroll to the city’s main square and view the towering Cathedral of Lima and the Presidential Palace, before returning to your ship.

Peru’s chief seaport is Callao, which is where we docked, and we drove through the city on the way to Lima. We passed by several of the city’s murals, including those dedicated to the giants of salsa music and dance.

Sights in Callao

Our first stop in Lima was the Larco Museum, which showcases thousands of years of Peruvian pre-Columbian art and culture. These works, which predate the Inca Empire, are arranged chronologically, allowing us to trace the evolution of Andean cultures. Included were a wide variety of artifacts, including textiles, weapons, tools, and incredible gold and silver jewelry.

The Larco Museum Is Also Known for its Beautiful Flowers and Gardens

A Sampling of Sacrificial Artifacts

Items Made of Gold and Silver

We learned that gold and silver, the two most precious metals, were important to the Andean cultures, but not because of their economic value. In ancient Peru, their real value lay in their status as symbols of royal identity and supernatural power. Gold and silver expressed the power of the sun and moon, which were major gods, as well as that of their descendants, the royal elite. The adornments and clothes made from gold and silver were worn by the political and religious leaders.

Spectacular Adornments and Clothing Made of Gold and Silver

The museum is also known for its extensive collection of pottery, and we were able to walk between shelves containing 30,000 catalogued, ancient pottery artifacts.

An Incredible Pottery Collection

After leaving the museum, we drove past Mateo Salado, the largest and one of the most important archeological complexes in Lima due to its monumentality and size. These ancient pyramids, or huacas, were built by the Lima and Ychsma cultures and were later used by the Incas. In Peru, a huaca refers to a sacred object or monument that represents something revered and is often associated with rituals and veneration. Mateo Salado is one of at least 54 huacas in Lima, although only 26 have been preserved. Many are 4,000 years old.

Mateo Salado

In just a few blocks, we moved from ancient Lima to the late nineteenth century when we circled the Plaza Dos de Mayo, an iconic square that commemorates the Battle of Callao, where Peruvian forces triumphantly defended the port of Callao against a Spanish fleet on May 2, 1866. The central obelisk is under restoration, but we were able to see the eight French-inspired buildings that surround the square.

Plaza Dos de Mayo

Our bus dropped us off at the Alameda Chabuca Granda, an urban promenade set along the Rímac River in the heart of Lima’s historic district. Here, we began our walking tour.

Alameda Chabuca Granda

Our first stop was the Museum of the Convent of Santo Domingo, a religious and cultural complex founded by the Dominican friars in 1535, shortly after the arrival of the conquistadors. The architecture of the convent was beautiful, and the tilework was remarkable.

Museum of the Convent of Santo Domingo

We entered the First Cloister, which is decorated with Sevillian tiles and seventeenth-century canvases depicting the life of Saint Dominic. The tiles date from 1604 and 1606 and were brought from Seville, Spain, to adorn the columns and walls of the main cloister.

The First Cloister

Beautiful Tilework in the First Cloister

The Second Cloister is simpler in design and reflects the influence of the Middle East with its trilobulated arches on the second floor.

The Second Cloister

The Chapter Room dates to the seventeenth century and was the location where all the friars were gathered by chapters to choose their authorities and solve their problems.

The Chapter Room

One of my favorite rooms was the Library, which houses the oldest books used by the Dominicans. The coffered ceiling was beautiful.

The Library

The restoration work at the convent is ongoing, and I enjoyed watching the craftsmen at work.

Restoration Work Is Ongoing at the Convent

Tim and Sarah at the Convent of Santo Domingo

Although we did not visit the interior of the Santo Domingo Church, we did see the façade and the bell tower as we walked through the Plaza of Santo Domingo, one of the oldest in Lima.

Santo Domingo Church

Plaza of Santo Domingo

We then walked through several streets in the Historic Centre of Lima, a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Scenes in the Historic Centre of Lima

We were on our way to Plaza de Armas, the main public square of Lima that dates to the foundation of the city by Francisco Pizarro on January 18, 1535. Surrounding the square are some of Lima’s most important buildings, including the Government Palace, the Metropolitan Cathedral, the Archbishop’s Palace, the Municipal Palace, and the Palacio de la Unión. It’s an impressive place.

Plaza de Armas

Buildings Around the Plaza de Armas

Lima is an interesting city with so much history, and I thoroughly enjoyed this excursion.

After returning to the ship, Tim and I headed to the World Café for dinner where a wonderful surprise awaited us. Many new crew members joined the ship today, and among them were three more of our favorite crew members from the World Cruise. What are the odds that so many of these great people are now on Viking Octantis. The surprises didn’t end there. Later that evening, we discovered that our new Stateroom Steward is Ron, whom we also knew from the World Cruise. How great is that!

Khyati, Asif, Sarah, and Shamila; and Ron and Sarah

Day 11 - Sailing the Pacific Ocean

Today was a busy day at sea for Tim and me. Our morning began with a crew drill, followed by a presentation by Captain Ivo Botica about “Viking Expedition Insights.” This was a first for us, since no other Captain has ever given a lecture.

Viking Expedition Insights by Captain Ivo

The talk introduced us to our state-of-the-art expedition ship with its cutting-edge technology, and it included an explanation of the shipboard organizational structure and hierarchies; the departments on board; what it takes to become a Captain, Chief Engineer, or Hotel General Manager; and many other topics.

Everything We Might Want to Know about Viking Expedition Ships

Captain Ivo also explained that Viking Octantis and its sister ship Viking Polaris are rated as Polar Class 6 vessels, meaning that they are designed to operate in medium first-year ice during summer and autumn. It was very cool to watch short videos of Viking Octantis cutting through first-year ice in Antarctica and making the first-ever Viking Expedition ice landing in 2024. Hopefully, we will be able to recreate something similar.

Explanation of First Year Ice Through Which Viking Octantis Cut to Make an Ice Landing

Captain Ivo has a great personality and is an excellent public speaker. He has always peppered his daily briefings with stories, personal tales, and jokes. We will miss him when he leaves in a few days for his four weeks off, four weeks on schedule.

Captain Ivo Always Comes Up with Fun Facts

From there we headed to Deck 6 for a special BBQ Lunch. The food was great, and luckily, we finished before the wind picked up.

BBQ Lunch

In the afternoon, Executive Chef Beni led us on a Galley Tour. Naturally, the galley here is much smaller than on Ocean ships, but there are many similarities. We even passed by the crew kitchen and dining area, which was interesting to see.

Chef Beni and His Team Keep Us Well-Fed

Crew Dining Area

After dinner, Tim and I said goodbye to our always-smiling Stateroom Steward Kandi. He will be leaving us tomorrow, but his wonderful assistant Joan will remain with us until the end of our cruise.

Tim and Sarah with Kandi; and Joan and Kandi

Our final activity for today was another lecture by Matias, “Incas: The People of the Andes.” Since we’ll be arriving in Peru tomorrow, the talk was very timely, and we received a comprehensive overview of the Inca civilization. I’m so glad the Expedition Team includes a historian to provide us with the history of the places we are visiting.

Inca Empire - The People of the Andes

Day 10 - Sailing the Pacific Ocean

As we make our way south through the Pacific Ocean on our way to Peru, we have begun to encounter the Humbolt Current, a cold, low-salinity ocean current that flows north along the western coast of South America. It was gloomy for much of the day, and the temperature dropped to 65°.

Wildlife sightings were quite abundant today, and several whales entertained passengers during the afternoon. I only managed to see them at quite a distance, so I have no photos, but I did manage to photograph a flock of boobies, seabirds that inhabit tropical and subtropical waters.

Flocks of Boobies

I admit that I rarely have the patience to participate in the regular wildlife watches, although I do love to see the larger species after they are sighted by others.

Day 9 - Manta, Ecuador

Our first visit to Ecuador began at 5:00 am, when Viking Octantis docked in Manta.  We arrived so very early because 55 passengers needed to depart at 5:30 am for their overland excursions to Machu Picchu and/or the Galapagos.  Tim and I had considered one of these excursions, but we wanted to spend more time than was allocated.

Welcome to Manta, Ecuador

Instead, we stayed to visit Ecuador, and Tim and I once again went our separate ways. Tim chose an optional excursion, “Cerro Jaboncillo Archaeological Site,” to delve into the history of Ecuador’s native people at the ruins of the ancient city of Cerro Jaboncillo.

I selected the included excursion, “Manta’s Timeless Treasures,” to encounter skilled weavers and carvers at work. This was the description:

Discover Ecuador’s craft industry and gain insight into the traditions that shape its local communities. Drive along the coast of Manta to arrive at the cabuya plant weaving factory. One of the last of its kind, this factory preserves the ancient craft of weaving with this special plant. Observe local artisans as they work, both to create their products and to maintain this tradition. Continue to Montecristi, the birthplace of the toquilla straw hat, also known as the "Panama Hat" after President Theodore Roosevelt wore it to inspect the Panama Canal. Watch as skilled weavers craft these iconic hats and peruse their goods for a keepsake to take home. To round out your understanding of Ecuadorian craftsmanship, enjoy a tagua nut carving demonstration. Often referred to as “vegetable ivory,” this nut can be utilized for many products, from simple buttons to intricate jewelry.

As we left the port, our guide gave us an introduction to Manta, known for its vibrant tuna-fishing industry and its close link to the sea. Approximately 300,000 tons of tuna are exported every year. Manta is the largest seaport in Ecuador, but the city is also famous for its bananas, coffee, and cocoa beans.

A Tuna Fishing Boat with Its Massive Nets Docked in Front of Our Ship

All types of fishing boats filled the waters, and we even saw several that were being locally made by hand. The catch of the day was being sold at the large Fish Market, which was bustling with activity.

Fish Market and Fishing Boats, Some Far Out in the Water and Others Docked

Our destination today was not Manta, however, but Montecristi, a town in the Manabí province of Ecuador known for its rich artisan tradition. Montecristi, not Panama, is also where the famous “Panama hat" originated, despite the hat’s name.

Monument to the Manabita Weaver

We headed to the Toquilla Straw Hat Museum to learn more about the production of these hats. The museum aims to preserve and promote the cultural value of this unique art, crafted by expert artisans from various communities in the area. Here in Montecristi, the finest toquilla straw hats in the world are produced. This craft is so significant that UNESCO recognized Toquilla Straw Weaving as an Intangible Cultural Heritage in 2012.

Toquilla Straw Hat Museum

The museum provides demonstrations of the entire process of making a hat, from preparing and processing the toquilla palm leaves, to hand-weaving the dried straw into the hat body, to blocking the hat into its final shape using wooden molds. It’s no wonder the best hats are so expensive. Although lots of hats were available for sale, I resisted the urge to purchase one.

Preparing and Processing the Leaves

Drying the Straw and Weaving the Hats

Weaving Various Shaped Hats - The Position of the Body that Is Required to Weave
the Hats Looks Painful

Blocking and Finishing the Hats

Finished Hats

From the museum, we drove through Montecristi, where we saw many vendors on the sidewalks selling local fruit and other products. We learned that this is a very common sight here.

Fruit and Other Items for Sale

Our next stop was the Johanna Workshop in the nearby village of El Chorrillo, where the same family has perfected the art of making things with cabuya for more than 40 years. The plant cabuya is a cactus similar to agave, and the cabuya used here is a variety that is endemic to Ecuador. The fibers obtained from the leaves of the plant are used to make ropes, sacks, textiles, rugs, among others.

Johanna Workshop

Here, the workers demonstrated the process involved in producing cabuya, including preparing the leaves to extract the fibers, combing and spinning the fibers into threads, and weaving the final product. This was another exacting process.

Preparing the Cabuya Leaves and Extracting and Combing the Fibers

Spinning the Fibers into Threads, Plus a Finished Rug and Rope

Spinning the Fiber Threads

Weaving the Final Product

Our final stop, a Tagua Factory, introduced us to the process of producing items from tagua, referred to as vegetable ivory. Taguas are palm trees native to the tropical rainforests of South America, particularly Ecuador. The palms produce a fruit that grows in clusters and has a hard, spiny shell, similar to a pineapple. Inside are seeds or nuts, which must be dried naturally. The nuts are known as vegetable ivory due to their similarity to animal ivory when dried.

Tagua Factory (top), Tagua Fruit (center left), Tagua Nuts Drying (center right), Dried Tagua Nut
(bottom left), and Tagua Factory Equipment

The dried tagua nuts become white and hard, perfect for carving. We watched as artisans cut the seeds into the desired shape, first producing discs that would be turned into buttons.

Cutting the Tagua Nuts into Desired Shapes

We then watched William carve one of the nuts into the shape of an owl in less than two minutes. The owl was so cute that I asked if I could purchase it. Instead, he gave it to me as a gift, although I did tip him.

William Carving an Owl from a Tagua Nut

The products available for purchase included brilliantly polished animals, buttons, jewelry, and Christmas ornaments. I didn’t take photos, but I did succumb to temptation and purchased a few ornaments.

It’s always such a pleasure when an excursion exceeds one’s expectations, and today’s did just that. Our guide was excellent, the exposure to Ecuador’s traditional artisan culture was enriching, and the craftspeople we encountered were simply amazing. I also found Ecuador to be filled with very friendly people, many of whom waved at us as we drove by, and I’m so glad that our itinerary included Ecuador.

At lunch back on the ship, I saw another familiar face. Ralasha, a waitress from our World Cruise, and I recognized each other at the same time, and it was so nice to see her again. She had just boarded in Panama City and will be with us the rest of the cruise.

Ralasha and Sarah

This evening, Tim and I dined at The Restaurant, which is a specialty dining venue on Expedition ships. Dover sole was on the menu, and I loved watching our Nagesh filet the fish. It was a lovely evening, and although we will usually opt for the World Café, it was nice to be waited on again.

Dinner at The Restaurant - Goan Potato Chops, Grilled Dover Sole,
Nagesh Fileting Tim's Dover Sole, and Biscoff and Caramel Cheesecake