Day 44 – Danco Island, Antarctica

After the most extraordinary weather yesterday, it only seemed fair that I would wake up this morning to fog, snow, and colder temperatures, much more typical of Antarctica. Viking Octantis was already anchored in the Errera Channel for excursions to Danco Island to see its rookeries of Gentoo penguins. Danco Island is characterized by a wide, flat cobbled beach that rises to the island’s ice-covered summit, and I could already see guests climbing the hill.

Passengers Climbing the Hill in the Fog on Danco Island

The fact that I was nursing a sore throat, plus the weather, made me decide to cancel my planned zodiac landing. Since Tim and I will be in South America for another three weeks, I figured I’d play it safe. Staying on the ship seemed to be my best option for today, and Tim decided to cancel his excursion, as well.

There was a great view of the island from our stateroom, and I could even see some of the penguins. On the hills, the penguin highways were especially distinct. Penguin highways are natural pathways that are created over time as countless penguins use the same routes, packing the snow into smooth, icy trails that make their journeys easier.

The Kayakers Had Great Views of the Penguins

The Black Lines Are Penguin Highways

Icebergs and sea ice floated by the ship, and some of the shapes were very cool to see.

I Love the Shapes of Icebergs

After the Expedition Team returned to Danco Island after lunch, it appeared that they extended the trail all the way to the top of the hill. Even if I had gone ashore, there is no way I would have made it that far.

A Few People Made It All the Way to the Top of the Hill

Danco Island was our last of four landings in Antarctica, and it was time for Viking Octantis to make its way from the inland channel to the open sea and the Drake Passage. Once again, the scenery as we left was spectacular. The big question for tomorrow - will we encounter the Drake Lake or the Drake Shake? Stayed tuned.

The Sun Came Out as We Passed More Icebergs on Our Way toward the Drake Passage

Day 43 – Brown Station, Antarctica

Today was an extraordinary one in every way imaginable, and it may well be my favorite day of this amazing cruise. The day began, as always, when I opened the blinds and my jaw nearly dropped. Not only did I see the most dramatic, glaciated mountains surrounding our ship, but I witnessed the brightest, bluest sky in memory.

Viking Octantis was anchored in Paradise Bay, which is the most apt description I’ve heard. Paradise Bay is one of Antarctica's wonders, a frozen landscape that is frequented by whales and penguins. We were here not only for the beauty of the landscape, but also for a landing at Brown Station, an Argentine Antarctic base and scientific research station.

Before Tim and I landed at Brown Station, however, we embarked on an SOB excursion around the bay. I was entranced by the glassy, mirror-like water and blue sky that created double images of the mountains and glaciers. Our pilot maneuvered our vessel around the icebergs and sea ice, and he ventured as close to shore as possible to see the penguin colonies.

Mirrored Images in Paradise Bay

Gorgeous Glaciers and Towering Ice Cliffs

Gentoo Penguins

Viking Octantis Was Dwarfed by the Towering, Glaciated Mountains

After an hour’s break, Tim and I boarded our zodiac for a landing on the rocky point at Brown Station. Exiting and later re-entering the zodiac was a bit more challenging here, but we made it.

Brown Station

A Rather Challenging Landing at Brown Station

The Expedition Team had planted a flag of Antarctica on shore, and everyone lined up for photo ops.

Tim and Sarah in Antarctica

Viking Antarctic Expedition

There were lots of Gentoo penguins at the station, and we were even able to see one penguin walk down the penguin highway. How cute!

Gentoo Penguins and a Walk on the Penguin Highway

After a less-than-graceful entry into the zodiac, we made it back to Viking Octantis to prepare for our early departure. It should come as no surprise that the scenery during the sail-away was gorgeous.

Viking Octantis Looked So Beautiful in Paradise Bay

Sailing Away from Paradise Bay

We were not finished for the day. In fact, additional destinations awaited us. The first was a stop at Port Lockroy, one of Antarctica’s most iconic locations. Historically, Port Lockroy was a British research station, but it is managed today by the UK Antarctic Heritage Trust. It features the world's most southerly operating post office in the world.

Port Lockroy

Representatives from the station gave a talk about living and working in Antarctica, as well as the activities of the UK Antarctic Heritage Trust. The Trust protects and preserves six historic bases along the Antarctic Peninsula, as well as the Endurance shipwreck. These bases, built between the 1940s and 1970s, are considered the missing link between the Heroic Era structures of Scott and Shackleton and the modern-day scientific stations.

The Projects of the Nonprofit UK Antarctic Heritage Trust

The souvenir shop that the Trust set up on our ship did a booming business, and the line snaked around Deck 2 for more than an hour. One of the offerings was the Port Lockroy seal, and some guests stamped their passports. I didn’t stamp my passport, but I did donate 10£ for the seal on a postcard.

Port Lockroy, Antarctica

Another surprise of the day awaited us at dinner in the World Café, where Executive Chef Beni and his team presented an Argentinian feast. Tim and I indulged in everything including empanadas, chimichurri steak, chorizo, and tiger shrimp. The food was so good that I even went back for seconds. This was one of my favorite dinners of the cruise.

An Argentinian Feast

Our day began with the incredible beauty of Paradise Bay and ended with a scenic transit through the equally stunning Lemaire Channel. As we made our way through this narrow passage, we gazed up at the towering cliffs and glaciers that reflected in the mirror-like water. Lemaire Channel is one of the most photographed spots on the continent and has earned the nickname "Kodak Alley." The channel certainly lived up to that reputation tonight.

The Lemaire Channel

Thank You, Captain Jorgen, for This Amazing Transit

Nearing the End of the Lemaire Channel

The View As We Turned Around to Retrace Our Route through the Channel

Day 42 – Mikkelsen Harbour, Antarctica

It was quite overcast with intermittent rain when Tim and I went to breakfast this morning. Viking Octantis was not scheduled to arrive in Mikkelsen Harbor until 1:00 pm, so I knew there was a good chance that the weather would change, hopefully for the better.

After attending the Daily Briefing, which took place this morning instead of yesterday afternoon, the weather did improve, and the sail-in to Mikkelsen Harbour was beautiful. Mikkelsen Harbour is a small bay on the south side of Trinity Island that is lined with stunning ice cliffs. Beginning in the nineteenth century, the bay was first used by sealing vessels and later by Norwegian whaling boats.

Dramatic Ice Cliffs Surround Mikkelsen Harbour

The destination for our zodiac landing was D’Hainaut Island, a small, rocky island inside the bay. The island contains a very large population of Gentoo penguins, and their rookeries were scattered throughout. Some were located on rocky hillsides, while others were near the shore or at the base of a weather station. We were told that a few had already laid eggs.

The paths established by the Expedition Team took us by many of the rookeries, and the penguins were much easier to see than the Chinstrap penguins yesterday. We also spotted a few seals.

Gentoo Penguins Typically Nest on Rocky Areas

Gentoo Penguins Were Everywhere on the Island

More Gentoo Penguins

Seals Also Frequented the Island

Tim and I were curious about the island's whaling artifacts, including a large accumulation of whale bones and the remains of an old whaling boat. These artifacts serve as a stark reminder of the area's past as a whaling station and are protected under Antarctic Treaty guidelines.

Whaling Artifacts

Also on the island is an uninhabited Argentinian shelter hut surrounded by a large penguin rookery.

Argentinian Hut and More Penguins

Sarah and Tim During Our Second Landing in Antarctica

All too soon, it was time to head back to the ship after a great visit. We did not set sail until 8:00 pm, and the icy cliffs were even more beautiful in the evening light.

Zodiac Ride Back to Viking Octantis

Scenery As We Left Mikkelsen Harbour

Day 41 – Half Moon Island, Antarctica

Today, Tim and I stepped foot on Antarctica. That accomplishment, in and of itself, is amazing to me since less than 0.002 percent of the world's population has visited this continent. A visit here is considered a rare achievement due to Antarctica’s remoteness, harsh conditions, and expense to get here.

For those who do travel here, Antarctica is often the seventh and final continent for many people to visit, and that is the case for Tim and me. What is most incredible, however, is that he and I have visited all seven continents in just this year alone! We never planned it that way, and it never occurred to us that this would be the result when we booked our World Cruise and this one for 2025. Amazing!

Charlie, One of Our Fellow World Cruise Passengers, Prepared This Certificate

This morning, we arrived at Half Moon Island on the Antarctic continent. Half Moon Island is a small, crescent-shaped island with a Chinstrap penguin colony, seals, and stunning views of the surrounding landscape. The island, which is located on the east side of Livingston Island in the South Shetland Islands, is rugged and rocky, with steep slopes and cobbled beaches.

It was foggy early this morning, and it began to snow and sleet when Tim and I were at breakfast. An hour later, conditions had not improved when guests began to arrive on Half Moon Island via a zodiac landing.

Half Moon Island In the Fog

Tim and I prepared for our own zodiac beach landing at 2:00 pm, just as the fog had mostly cleared. We climbed the hill on a path created by the Expedition Team and had our picture taken to document our arrival on the Antarctic continent. We had not thought about bringing a flag like some passengers did, but that’s ok. We know that we have achieved that milestone.

Plenty of Expedition Team Members to Assist Us During Our Beach Landing

The Expedition Team Made a Path to Enable Us to Climb the Hill

Tim and Sarah Celebrating Our Setting Foot on Our Seventh Continent

Half Moon Island is characterized by small hills and rock outcroppings, which we passed on the way to view the Chinstrap penguins who reside here. Although Gentoo penguins stole my heart on the Falkland Islands, I must admit that the Chinstraps are mighty cute!

Half Moon Island Has Lots of Rock Outcroppings and a Whaling Dory

Chinstrap Penguins - What a Descriptive Name! (lower right two photos courtesy of Expedition Team)

Just before Tim and I were about to head back to the ship, a bit of blue sky appeared, and what had been obscured by the fog was now crisp and clear. It was just a short window of perfect Antarctic weather – mostly clear skies, not too cold, and not windy – but we were the lucky ones to have experienced it.

We Could See the Beautiful View Across the Bay Once the Fog Lifted

We had even more beautiful views of the surrounding landscape on our zodiac ride back to the ship.

More Beautiful Scenery

The fog did return, however. We learned that this is typical Antarctic weather – changing every five minutes or so.

When I later put together a collage showing the various weather conditions, I joked that the line of guests on the island looked like a march of penguins. I identified these folks as Scarlet penguins, after their red Viking jackets.

The Changing Weather Over Half Moon Island - Can You Spot the Scarlet Penguins?

I wasn't sure what to expect on my first excursion in Antarctica. Would I be too cold? Would I be able to climb the snow-covered hills? I may not have been as graceful as I would have liked, and I even joked to the Expedition Team that I was the clumsy one, but I had a blast. The excursion far exceeded my expectations, and I wasn't ready to return to the ship when it was time. I can't wait for the next stop.

Expedition Leader Olivia warned us this afternoon that we might see a ghost early this evening. While we were at dinner, Polaris, our twin ship, appeared out of the fog and remained beside us for quite a while. Tim and I sailed on Polaris from Toronto to Fort Lauderdale last year, and it was very cool to see her again.

Our Sister Ship Polaris Emerged Out of the Fog

Cruise Mapper Showed the Twins Side by Side

Since penguins are a main attraction on our landings in Antarctica, Specialist Tim presented a lecture this evening entitled “Penguins – Living in Two Worlds.” Penguins are primarily residents of the southern hemisphere, including Antarctica, and have evolved to survive in both aquatic (to feed) and terrestrial (to nest) environments. So far, I have seen King, Gentoo, and Chinstrap penguins. I’m now hoping to see Adélie penguins.

Penguins - Living in Two Worlds

Day 40 – Sailing the South Atlantic Ocean

Viking Octantis had hoped to take us to Hope Bay today, but an unprecedented amount of sea ice in the area dashed those hopes. But enough about hopeful thinking and a bad play on words.

Sea Ice Still Surrounded Us This Morning - Although Beautiful, It Thwarted Our Plans for Today

The Expedition Team did a great job of scrambling to fill our unexpected sea day with lectures and other events. Little did they know that an unexpected occurrence awaited us later on.

In the afternoon, there were reports of whale sightings. I was able to see a few in the distance, and this was my first whale sighting of the cruise. I was excited to see them, but they were too far away for photos. While I was looking out the window, what mesmerized me was the sea and the beautiful patterns created by the ship and the wind.

The Patterns in the Glassy Blue Water Were Mesmerizing

I surprised myself by continuing to look out our window to try and spot more whales, and my unusual patience paid off. Suddenly, there were two whales directly under our window, where they remained for a while. I had never seen whales this close. The water was so glassy that I was able to see them clearly, even partially underwater. I was incredulous when one whale even spouted a rainbow! I found out later that the term for that is a “rainblow.” Wow!

All I Can Say Is WOW!

Our ship remained in position while the whales surrounded our ship for hours. Most of us were so excited that we were screaming when we spotted another whale. With our window open, not only could Tim and I see the whales, but we could even hear them.

No Other Whales Came Quite So Close, But It Was Still Amazing to Watch All the Others

After the whales departed, it was time for the Daily Briefing. The Captain attended to discuss the reasons for our missed destination today. He explained that more sea ice was encountered after midnight, forcing the ship to slow down. Other ships ahead of us reported even greater concentrations of sea ice, convincing the Captain that it would not be wise to proceed to Hope Bay, given that safety is his primary concern. He therefore made the decision to turn around and sail towards our next destination. Expedition Leader Olivia showed us a sonar image of the incredible amount of sea ice.

The Green Represents Areas of Sea Ice

Reversing Course

Both the Captain and Olivia couldn’t stop gushing about the whales and reported that they had never seen as many as we did today, especially in November, which is the beginning of the season. Olivia noted that the whales had come to us and surrounded us. Such density and concentration were very unusual.

Everyone on the ship was thrilled with this rare occurrence, including the Expedition Team and officers on the Bridge, who tried to keep track of the number of whales spotted. The Captain even joked that there were more whales than passengers.

Even the Officers on the Bridge Kept Count of the Whales

In the evening, I watched a very timely lecture by Specialist Chris entitled “An Introduction to Antarctica – the Origin, Highlights and Fascination of the Last Great Wilderness.” We learned that Antarctica is a frozen continent surrounded by sea and is the coldest, windiest, driest, and highest continent on Earth. Antarctica is truly one of the most perfectly preserved regions on the planet.

Introduction to Antarctica

I was very curious about all the sea ice we had seen in the last two days but was unsure about the difference between sea ice and icebergs. So, I watched two recorded lectures. I started with “Ice,” which was presented by General Naturalist Shane this afternoon, followed up by Specialist Chris’ lecture from a few days ago on “Ice, Ice, Baby Glaciers, Sea Ice and Icebergs.”

I learned, among other things, that sea ice is frozen ocean water that forms on the surface of the sea, while icebergs are large chunks of freshwater ice that have broken off from glaciers or ice shelves on land. The key differences are their origin (sea vs. land), composition (saltwater vs. freshwater), and size (flat sheets vs. massive irregular shapes). Now I know!

 Ice!

Ice, Ice, Baby Glaciers, Sea Ice and Icebergs

Today’s beautiful weather continued into the evening, and the views toward Antarctica were lovely.

I Can't Wait to Visit Antarctica Tomorrow

What a day! The beautiful sea ice, the gorgeous blue-sky day, and the whales more than made up for missing Hope Bay. This day may have been even better than the one originally planned.