Day 175 – Sail the Labrador Sea

It was another rough night and day, but it certainly did not approach the violent conditions we experienced two days ago. We are just rocking and rolling along, and everyone looks as if they have had too much to drink.

Knowing that the end of the World Cruise is fast approaching has made me quite emotional, and I have found myself tearing up at the drop of a hat. I also started to pull back from the events on the ship and retreat to my room. This morning, for example, I should have been first in line to photograph the extravagant displays at today’s Brunch. Instead, I did not even attend, let alone take photos. I stayed in my room and ordered room service.

Remaining in the room was a perfect opportunity to catch up on more lectures. Tim and I watched Dr. Robert Cribb’s talk on “Canadian Exploration,” where he reflected on the motivations and legacies of key figures during the late fifteenth to seventeenth centuries.

Canadian Exploration: First Contacts

During Captain Marcus’ noon announcement, we learned of yet another change to our itinerary. I was not at all surprised to hear that our diversion to Nuuk due to the medical emergency, as well as the rough seas that we are still experiencing, meant that we would not be able to arrive in L’Anse aux Meadows in time to conduct our port call. Therefore, we will now sail directly to Halifax as scheduled. We were also advised that Viking’s Customer Relations team will contact us when we return home with an offer of compensation.

I watched Russell Lee lecture on “The Tragedy of the Acadians – Canada’s Lost Colony” in the afternoon. Although I was familiar with these seventeenth-century settlers who got caught in the colonial wars between France and England, I learned much more about the background and reasons that led to their expulsion from Nova Scotia.

The Tragedy of the Acadians - Canada's Lost Colony

Since we no longer needed a port talk for L’Anse aux Meadows, the Viking Sky team arranged an impromptu talk about “Navigating in Polar Waters,” courtesy of the Ice Pilot who has been with us since Reykjavik. It was very interesting to hear about all the resources that are consulted to decide whether a port is safe to visit, due to the amount and location of the ice around it. He also discussed the various tools that are used to help navigate a ship through areas where icebergs are present.

Navigating in Polar Waters

After resting during the afternoon, my typically-happy self somehow reappeared, and I was ready for a dinner that I had facilitated in Manfredi’s Private Dining Room. This time, I was merely the booking agent. Several days ago, I suggested to our friends Nancy, Heather, and Jim that we get together for dinner and that each one invite another couple. They did, and we had a very fun evening. It was a good thing we were in the private dining room and not the restaurant, since there was so much laughter.

A Fun Evening with (l-r) Sarah, Evelyn, Dave, Tom, Valerie, Heather, Jim, Nancy, and Tim

Day 174 – Nuuk, Greenland

Since we were not scheduled to arrive in Nuuk, Greenland, until 11:00 am, Tim and I slept in and then watched Russell Lee’s morning lecture on “Tales of the Inuit.” Although I have enjoyed all of Russell’s lectures, this was one of my favorites. I loved his recounting of the Inuit creation story, as well as the other legends and tales told by the people of the Far North.

Tales of the Inuit

Our sail-in to Nuuk should have been a scenic one, but the heavy fog obscured everything that was more than a few feet from our ship. It was still foggy when we arrived at the dock.

Greenland is an autonomous territory in the Kingdom of Denmark, and the citizens of Greenland are full citizens of both Denmark and the European Union. Nuuk, Greenland’s capital city and main port, was founded in 1728 by the Danish-Norwegian priest Hans Egede, who traveled to Greenland in 1721 to spread Christianity.

Although most visitors to Nuuk come to enjoy nature, our visit was limited to the city itself, due to the short amount of time in port.

It was so nice to be able to dock in Nuuk, rather than tendering. Although there had been no time to arrange tours, due to the last-minute change in our itinerary, Viking’s Shore Excursion team did manage to procure shuttle buses for us, which was quite welcome, as well as free admission to the Greenland National Museum.

After lunch on the ship, Tim and I caught a shuttle bus to downtown Nuuk. As we walked to the Greenland National Museum, Greenland’s largest museum of cultural history, we saw many of Nuuk’s brightly painted houses perched on sloping hillsides. We also passed a historic area that I wanted to explore further.

Houses Perched on the Edge of the Hillsides

Nuuk's Colonial Harbor Neighborhood

The Greenland National Museum Is Comprised of Several Historic Buildings

At the museum, we walked through the seven permanent exhibitions that present the history of Greenland, including the first Arctic Stone Age Cultures, the Norse settlements, the arrival of the ancestors of the Inuit people, and the gradual transition to modern Greenland.

The exhibits were very well done, with an amazing collection of artifacts that were originally housed in the National Museum of Denmark. In 1983, Denmark and Greenland signed a repatriation agreement regarding the National Museum of Denmark’s collections of the Greenlandic cultural heritage. The process of repatriation began in 1982, and more than 35,000 artifacts have been repatriated.

Greenlandic Home (top) vs Danish Home (bottom)

Intricate Carvings

Inuit Means of Transportation, Including Kayaks, Skin Boats, and Dog Sleds

Famous 15th Century Mummies and Grave Goods from Qilakitsoq 

Rethinking Greenlandic Cartographic Heritage

After visiting the museum, I walked around the historic neighborhood nearby, known as the Colonial Harbor. This area is the site of Nuuk’s original settlement and the center of Greenland's capital. One of the prominent buildings here is Greenland’s Cathedral, also known as the Church of Our Savior, built in 1849. Although many of the buildings are several hundred years old and made of wood, they have been preserved partly as a result of the area’s dry climate.

Brightly Painted Buildings of Colonial Harbor

After returning to the ship, it was almost time for the special Greenland Sail Away Celebration on the Pool Deck. There was a beautiful offering of seafood and sushi, a special cocktail, and a wonderful performance by Assistant Cruise Director Patricia.

Greenland Sail-Away Celebration

It was still very foggy when we left Nuuk, although we were able to see large icebergs later in the evening.

A Foggy Sail-Away from Nuuk

Iceberg Sightings Were Fairly Common

We received a lovely note and magnet later in the evening as “a special token from Greenland, a destination we were truly thrilled to reach together, despite the heavy seas and unexpected course changes.”

A Memento to Remind Us that We Did Reach Greenland, Despite the Odds

Tim and I finished the day by catching up on another lecture. Dr. Jeffrey Morton's talk about “NATO: Past, Present & Future” helped us understand the trajectory of history’s greatest military alliance.

NATO: Past, Present & Future

Day 173 – Sail the North Atlantic Ocean

The Captain had warned us about the very rough seas we would encounter overnight, but the reality still came as a bit of a shock. Tim and I were rudely awakened around 5:25 am by the sound of falling objects. Just a few small things fell then, but less than an hour later, our ice bucket and carafe full of water, among other things, hit the floor. Luckily, nothing was broken. Although it was difficult to see outside since our windows were covered with salt water and raindrops, I was able to glimpse the largest waves we had experienced so far.

The Waves Were Huge

There was no way that I was going to be able to get back to sleep, so I cleaned up the mess and sat in my chair at the desk to learn about weather conditions in this part of the world. Walking around was not a good idea.

I checked the CruiseMapper app and noted that we were sailing around the southern tip of Greenland, known as Cape Farewell, where the waters around it are known for rough seas. In fact, the Irminger Sea, located between southern Greenland and Iceland, is considered one of the stormiest and windiest stretches of water globally. Maritime conditions around southern Greenland are therefore challenging due to their exposure to harsh Arctic weather systems and strong winds.

Although everything was much calmer by mid-morning, Tim and I decided to delay going to breakfast and instead watched Dr. John Haywood’s lecture on “Ancient Arctic Peoples: Inuit Ancestors.” He explained how these people flourished in the harshest environment on earth and created ingenious technology and art. I was amused when he talked about objects with no discernable use that had been discovered. In that case, he said, archeologists simply categorized these items as ones for ritual use.

Ancient Peoples of the Arctic

In his noon announcement, Captain Markus talked about the weather we had experienced this morning, which was rougher than he had expected. In fact, the seas were rougher than rough – they had reached the threshold for violent! The next level is hurricane!

Tim and I watched two other lectures this afternoon. First up was Dr. Haywood’s previous talk on “The Norse Greenland Colony,” where he spoke about Europe’s first trans-Atlantic settlement and the theories about its mysterious demise. We then caught Dr. Robert Cribb’s talk on “Icebergs: Towers of Ice.” That was certainly an apropos topic since we were beginning to see the icebergs along the western coast of Greenland.

The Norse Greenland Colony

Icebergs

Although It Was Foggy, We Could See Icebergs in the Distance

Later in the day, Cruise Director Cornelia announced three surprise events scheduled for the pre-dinnertime hour, and I stopped by all of them. Resident Pianist Liza performed in the Explorers’ Lounge for a change; Guitar Entertainer Alan accompanied singers Gabby and Marylyn in the Atrium; and wildlife photos and other images from the cruise were shown on the large screen on the Pool Deck. Of course, various special cocktails, as well as popcorn for the “movie,” were served.

Three Simultaneous Special Events in the Explorers' Lounge (left), Atrium (center), and Pool Deck (right)

While Tim and I were at dinner, Captain Markus made another announcement. Any announcement outside of his scheduled one at noon is never a good thing. He let us know that a medical emergency would preclude our stop in Paamiut. Instead, we will head farther north to Nuuk, the capital of Greenland. As always, we will just go with the flow and hope the passenger will receive the necessary medical attention he or she requires.

Day 172 – Sail the North Atlantic Ocean

We left Iceland last night and are sailing the North Atlantic Ocean today on our way to Greenland. We will be at sea for the next two days.

Since we are crossing the Arctic Circle today, Viking Sky conducted a Blue Nose Ceremony to mark this nautical milestone with a time-honored seafaring tradition. Since I had missed the ceremony when we crossed the Arctic Circle on our last segment, I made a point to attend the one today.

On Viking, the tradition includes a plunge into an icy bath (the jacuzzi filled with ice cubes), a symbolic blue nose (blue icing), and a warming shot (Aquavit). It was fun to watch the officers set the stage and fill the jacuzzi with tubs and bags of ice. 

Preparations for the Blue Nose Ceremony

More than a dozen passengers and two Viking vocalists took the plunge, and then Hotel General Manager Marcel painted their noses blue. He, and all the others, seemed to be having a lot of fun. I had no intention of getting into that freezing water, but I was able to “cheat” and dip my fingers into the pool to earn my blue nose.

Hotel General Manager Marcel Was Painting Everyone's Noses Blue

After all that fun, Tim and I watched another of Russell Lee’s lectures on “The Mystery of the Celtic Sprites.” I had never heard of the Lewis Chessmen, a collection of carved walrus tusk chess pieces from the twelfth century, that were discovered on the Isle of Lewis in 1831. We learned what these artifacts could tell us about the Vikings.

The Mystery of the Celtic Sprites

After enjoying cherries jubilee and bananas foster topped with vanilla gelato at the Flambé and Hot Dessert Station, it was time for another lecture. Dr. Jeffrey Morton talked about “Greenland: Jewel of the North Atlantic” and helped us understand Greenland’s complicated relationship with Denmark and its move toward independence.

Greenland: Jewel of the North Atlantic

As I write this in real time, the seas are getting rougher, and we were told to expect very rocky conditions with high waves tonight. It’s so strange that we have had more bad weather in the last week than in the previous five months.

Day 171 – Ísafjörður, Iceland

What a difference a day makes! Although it was still cloudy, it wasn’t dreary, if that makes any sense. Plus, it wasn’t windy, and the temperature was much warmer. The sun even came out this afternoon! I was a happy camper, or cruiser!

We docked in Ísafjörður, Iceland, the same port we visited six days ago, and it was a completely different experience today. I lasted all of five minutes outside that day, but I thoroughly enjoyed my time here today.

Ísafjörður is the largest settlement in the Iceland’s Westfjords region and is known for its breathtaking scenery and rich cultural heritage. Ísafjörður grew rapidly during the sixteenth century and became a center for trade and fishing thanks to its natural harbor. The town has played a significant role in Iceland's fishing industry since the mid-nineteenth century, with one of the largest fisheries in Iceland today.

I set out early this morning on the included excursion, “Ísafjörður & Bolungarvík Village,” to explore the history and culture of the Westfjords peninsula. This was the description:

Discover the wild beauty of Iceland’s northwest corner, and the culture and history of the region’s small towns. Embark on a scenic drive around Ísafjördur, the principal town of the Westfjords peninsula. Surrounded by mountains that offer endless opportunities to enjoy nature and wilderness during all seasons of the year, the town is also known throughout the country for its rich cultural life. The fishing industry, however, has traditionally been the mainstay of the town and surrounding municipality, known as Ísafjardarbaer. Visit the Ósvör Maritime Museum, a fascinating replica of an old fishing outpost that offers a glimpse of how life treated the Icelandic fishermen until the beginning of the 20th century. Continue to Bolungarvík and enjoy a guided tour of the village before returning to Ísafjördur.

Our excursion began with a stop at the Bunárfoss waterfall, where our guide offered us cups of Icelandic water from the waterfall. One of Iceland’s greatest natural treasures is its water, and it was fresh and clean.

Bunárfoss Waterfall

Beautiful Flowers

Along the coastline on the way to the neighboring town of Bolungarvík, we passed many fish drying sheds that reflect the region's strong fishing history. These structures, which are still in use today, are used to dry fish.

Fish Drying Sheds along the Coastline

We drove through the Bolungarvíkurgöng tunnel that replaced one of Iceland's most dangerous roads between Ísafjörður and Bolungarvík.  On the way to our destination, we passed the Óshólar Lighthouse, which was built in 1937 and is still in operation.

Óshólar Lighthouse on the Shores of Bolungarvík

We stopped for a visit at the Ósvör Maritime Museum, a reconstruction of a nineteenth century fishing station. On the site, we saw a crew hut with tools and equipment used for fishing and fish processing, a salt house, and a drying hut. The crew hut and salt house were made of stone and wood, and the roofs were covered with turf to provide insulation against harsh weather conditions.

Ósvör Maritime Museum

The museum guide, dressed in a traditional fisherman’s sheepskin outfit, stood by a traditional rowing boar and provided us with an insight into what life was like for fishermen in the Westfjords centuries ago.

A Traditional Icelandic Fisherman, and Sarah

We retraced our route back to Ísafjörður, where we stopped for a performance by a local musician. 

A Performance in Ísafjörður

Instead of heading back to the ship on the bus, I stayed in town and walked around the old town, admiring the timber frame houses with corrugated tin roofs built by fishing merchants in the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries.

A Few Historic Buildings in Ísafjörður

Back at Viking Sky, I noticed that the sun had come out, and there were patches of blue sky. It was a very welcome sight after so many days without even a peek. Tim also returned from his whale watching expedition and was happy to report that he had seen three whales.

The Sun Shining Over Ísafjörður

Later in the afternoon, Captain Markus announced an update to our upcoming itinerary in Greenland. Because of large expanses of ice moving back towards the coast, and after consultations with local ice pilots, the Captain determined that the concentrations of ice surrounding our planned ports of call would not disperse in time for our arrival. Therefore, he made the decision to cancel our scenic sailing in Prince Christian Sound and port calls in Qaqortoq and Nanortalik.

The Captain did have a bit of good news, however. Ice conditions farther north in Greenland will allow us to spend a full day in Paamiut. Information about shore excursions will be forthcoming.

Day 170 – Akureyri, Iceland

Although we spent ten days above the Arctic Circle last month, it was nonetheless fun to learn that Viking Sky crossed the Arctic Circle again last night just before midnight. We were traveling above Raufarhöfn, the northernmost town on the Icelandic mainland, on our way to Akureyri, and we sailed above the Arctic Circle for about three hours.

Akureyri, the “Capital of the North,” was our destination for today, and I was awake as we sailed the Eyjafjörður toward the city. Unfortunately, when I opened the curtains, I was greeted by another dreary, cold, and windy day.

My plan was to discover “Northern Iceland's Natural Treasures,” a seven-hour optional excursion to visit Godafoss Falls and the Mývatn volcanic lake area and explore the stunning landscape of this part of Iceland. I just couldn’t seem to drag myself out of bed, however. The weather has really begun to affect me, and I badly need to see the sun again.

Although I felt guilty about skipping a rather pricey excursion, I reluctantly concluded it was best for my state of mind. Seeing raindrops on the Bridge Cam erased any lingering doubts I may have had!

I Decided Raindrops Would Not Fall on My Head Today!

Tim went on his included excursion, “Panoramic Akureyri,” to see the highlights of the city, and he said that he enjoyed it. The weather doesn’t seem to affect him.

The one building that I had wanted to see in town was Akureyrarkirkja, also known as the Church of Akureyri, designed by prominent Icelandic architect Guðjón Samúelsson. I had read that the church is distinguished by its striking modernist style, characterized by clean lines and a bold, towering silhouette. I was able to get a distant view of the church from the upper deck of Viking Sky.

Akureyri Looked Like a Very Nice City - The Church of Akureyri Is at the Left Center of the Top Photo

A Zoomed-In View of the Church of Akureyri

In the afternoon, Tim and I made another attempt to catch up on the lectures we had missed. This time, we watched Russell Lee’s talk on “The Icelandic Economic Boom, Crash & Recovery.” As we learned about the 2008 economic crisis that sparked a political revolution in Iceland, my respect for this island country only continued to grow.

The Icelandic Economic Boom, Crash & Recovery

Day 169 – Seyðisfjörður, Iceland

I was still asleep when Viking Sky docked in Seyðisfjörður this morning. Located in East Iceland, Seyðisfjörður is a picturesque town located at the end of its namesake fjord and nestled between large mountains. The area traces its origins to the early days of Viking settlements, but it was Norwegian fishermen who founded the town in 1848.

First View of Seyðisfjörður 

It was still cold and cloudy today, but much better than two days ago, so I dressed in many layers and set out for my optional excursion, “Skálanes Nature & Heritage Center.” This was the description:

Bask in remote natural beauty as you journey through grasslands and mountains to the town of Skálanes. Embark on a scenic drive to Thorarinsstadir, and enjoy the beautiful countryside views along the way. Stop at an abandoned farm and explore the important excavation site that revealed an early settlement graveyard and church. Continue on to the Skálanes Nature and Heritage Center—a unique, private nature reserve situated in a beautifully restored Icelandic farmstead. The towering coastal cliffs are home to more than 40 different species of birds, and the five-square-mile facility showcases the incredible biodiversity of the region. The center promotes sustainable tourism, and its vision is to become a leading center of Icelandic culture and environmental development. Be sure to keep your eyes peeled for the whales and seals that can sometimes be spotted here.

The Icelandic landscape is stunning, even on a cloudy day, and that’s exactly what I wanted to experience today. We could see the fresh snow on the mountains as we headed out of town on a one lane dirt road that followed the fjord. The views of the fjord and surrounding mountains were beautiful.

Beautiful Views Over the Fjord

More Stunning Views Along the Way

We stopped for a short while at Þórarinsstaðir, the site of an early Christian post church. The site was excavated in 1998–1999 and revealed, for the first time in Iceland, an eleventh century church building constructed of timber, an extremely scarce resource in Iceland. The church would have been highly visible to ships sailing into Seyðisförður. The excavation here was part of a project entitled “The Transition from Paganism to Christianity in Iceland.”

Þórarinsstaðir Archeological Site

As we continued onward, we began to see fields covered with lupines, and it was a glorious sight. I love lupines, and we learned that they had been planted everywhere to help prevent soil erosion. Today, however, they are known to be an invasive species that is crowding out the native Arctic plants.

Fields of Lupines Were Spectacular

Our primary destination was Skálanes Nature and Heritage Center, located in a restored Icelandic farmhouse in a private nature reserve and field center at the mouth of Seyðisfjörður. The center hosts university students from all over the world and is a perfect setting for conducting research and learning about the natural and cultural environment of Iceland. It was an adventure to get there, as we had to ford three streams. Our driver earned a round of applause.

Fording Streams on Our Way to Skálanes Nature and Heritage Center

Near the field center, we saw a large colony of wild, nesting eiders that return here every year to lay their eggs and raise their chicks. The eiders shed their down naturally in the spring, and it is later collected for eider duvets. Eider farming and down collection is a traditional activity that dates to the last ice age.

Eider Colonies

We were then introduced to the Arctic terns as we began our walk. Arctic terns, which fly from their Arctic breeding grounds to the Antarctic and back again each year, are very aggressive and protective of their nests. They began to attack us, crying loudly and diving continually at our heads. It was quite a sight, but we escaped unscathed.

Fighting Off the Arctic Terns

It was a beautiful walk to a cliff that is home to thousands of seabirds. We were surrounded by lupines and views of the fjord and mountains along the way.

I Continued to be Mesmerized by the Lupines

It was freezing at the platform overlooking the cliff, however, so I tried to take a few quick photos of the kittiwakes and puffins, before making a hasty retreat down the path to the bus.

I Barely Managed to Get a Few Photos of the Kittiwakes and Puffins on the Cliffs

It was amusing to watch the battles between the Arctic terns and guests as they returned a while later. The terns even drew blood from one man who was not wearing a hat. Luckily, it was a minor injury.

Attack of the Arctic Terns

As we retraced our route back to Seyðisfjörður, we saw several Icelandic sheep and lambs grazing on the hillsides. Icelandic sheep and horses are the primary farm animals in Iceland. I also focused on the many waterfalls along the way. Iceland is known for its waterfalls, although the ones we saw today were quite small.

Icelandic Sheep and a Few Lambs

Waterfalls Are Everywhere

Our ship was docked right in town, so I decided to do a quick walk around the pretty town before getting back on board. One of Seyðisfjörður’s most iconic features is the Rainbow Street, which leads to the lovely Blue Church.

The Blue Church and Rainbow Street

The town also features many well-preserved, colorful wooden buildings. In the late nineteenth and early twentieth centuries, Norwegian merchants and whalers settled in Seyðisfjörður, bringing with them their unique architectural style. Many of the town's wooden buildings were either imported from Norway as ready-made houses in kit form, or were designed and built based on Norwegian architectural traditions. Corrugated iron, which was the typical roofing material, was often used to clad walls to protect the timber.

A Few of Seyðisfjörður's Historic Buildings

I’m glad I made the effort today to get out and explore a beautiful part of Iceland. The cold, wind, and cloudy skies are starting to get to me, however. I think I could more easily deal with the first two if it were sunny.