Visiting with Eugene O’Neill and John Muir

My primary reason for stopping in Emeryville, California, was to visit the National Park Units in the area. Today, I had a reservation for the Eugene O’Neill National Historic Site in the morning, with a planned stop at the John Muir National Historic Site in the afternoon.

Because the East Bay region is so spread out, I needed a rental car to visit these properties. The folks at Enterprise Rent-a-Car picked me up from my hotel, and I was soon caught up in California’s infamous traffic. Luckily, I had avoided the worst of the rush hour nightmare, and I arrived in Danville in time for my tour of the Eugene O’Neill National Historic Site at 10:00 am.

The Eugene O’Neill National Historic Site was the home of America’s greatest, and only Nobel Prize-winning, playwright during the pinnacle of his writing career. Tao House was O’Neill’s sanctuary, and we had an exceptional tour of his home. I was only vaguely familiar with O’Neill's work, but I gained a deeper understanding of his life and place in American culture from our very informative ranger, who made O’Neill’s story come to life.

Tao House, the Eugene O'Neill National Historic Site

Tao House Reflects O'Neill's Interest in Eastern Philosophy and
His Wife Carlotta's Passion for Oriental Art and Decor

Eugene O'Neill's Study

The annual Eugene O’Neill Festival was underway, and National Park Service staff members were setting up for the productions that were to be staged at Tao House. One event was planned for the front lawn, while the main production was scheduled to take place in the original barn.

Views from the House, and the Barn, Which Now Is a Stage for the Eugene O'Neill Festival

I next traveled to Martinez, California, where I visited the John Muir National Historic Site. Most people are familiar with Muir, America’s most famous naturalist and conservationist, but few know about his life in Martinez as a fruit rancher. I certainly didn’t, but an excellent film brought me up to speed. 

Muir married into the fruit-ranching Strentzel family in 1880, and this house was his home until he died in 1914. Muir managed the fruit business until 1887, when his wife Louie convinced him to resume his conservation work and travels.

John Muir National Historic Site

Although there was no guided tour of the Italianate style mansion, volunteer docents were available in the house to answer questions. I was even able to climb all the way to the cupola and ring the bell.

John Muir's Study and the Cupola

A portion of the historic orchard has been preserved, and visitors are allowed to pick the fruit. Only quince and grapes were in season during my visit, but the grapes were quite tasty, even though they did have seeds.

The Historic Orchard

While I was at the site, several diseased and dead trees were being removed. Still standing, however, was the Giant Sequoia that John Muir planted in late 1800s. Although the tree is now dead, it remains a significant, contributing feature of the landscape. The National Park Service has not yet determined what to do with the tree.

The Giant Sequoia Planted by John Muir

Also on the property is the Martinez Adobe, a site on the Juan Bautista de Anza National Historic Trail. Built in the early 1840s by the Martínez family, early settlers of the area, the adobe reflects the architectural style and lifestyle of early Californian settlers, showcasing elements of Spanish and Mexican influence in its construction and design. Unfortunately, the house is not open due to structural concerns.

The Martinez Adobe

I decided to return to my hotel a little earlier than I would have liked to escape the worst of the afternoon traffic. Since I had lots of time, I stopped at an IKEA store, which was less than five minutes from my hotel. It had been a long time since I had visited one of my favorite stores, but nothing tempted me today, expect for a dinner of Swedish meatballs!