Onboard the Rocky Mountaineer

Traveling on Canada’s Rocky Mountaineer, considered one of the ten greatest rail journeys in the world, had been on my bucket list for quite some time. This morning, Tim and I began our trip. We were up very early, even before the Gold Lounge opened, and met our group in the lobby of the Fairmont Hotel Vancouver for the ride to the station where we would board our train. Despite my swollen and black eye, I was feeling no pain – I just looked terrible! A fellow passenger whom I met last night in the Gold Lounge had suggested that I say to anyone who looked at me, “You should see the other guy!” That always got a laugh.

The Rocky Mountaineer offers several rail routes, and we had chosen the “First Passage to the West.” This route retraces the historic route of the Canadian Pacific Railway through the Rocky Mountains, and it opened in 1885. When British Columbia joined Canada in 1871, the agreement was contingent on the building of a transcontinental railroad. The Canadian Pacific, therefore, is credited with not only building a railroad, but building a nation as well.

The Rocky Mountaineer offers two levels of service, Gold Leaf and Silver Leaf. Gold Leaf cars are bi-level, with glass-domed panoramic windows on the upper level and a dining room below. Silver Leaf cars have only one level, and meals are served at your seat. Of course, Tim and I chose Gold Leaf service, and everything about it – the car itself, the food, and the service – was truly amazing.

Our onboard Hosts attended to our every need. They offered stories about the passing landmarks and called out any wildlife sightings (sadly, there were few). They also offered snacks between meals and constantly topped off our glasses of wine or soda. We were well taken care of.

Ready to Board the Rocky Mountaineer

It was raining a little as we boarded the train and began to settle into our comfortable seats. Almost immediately, we were ushered downstairs to the dining room for breakfast. As is common on most trains, we were seated with another couple and enjoyed our conversation. I selected the Lemon & Honey Buttermilk Pancakes, and they were delicious.

A Delicious Pancake Breakfast

It was rainy and foggy when we left Vancouver. As we traveled under the Fraser River Swing Bridge, we passed from the BNSF Railway tracks to ones owned by Canadian National Railway. We traveled through the rich agricultural fields of the fertile Fraser Valley and then entered the dramatic Fraser Canyon.

Traveling from Vancouver, Through the Fraser Valley, Into Fraser Canyon

By this time, we had returned to the dining room for a leisurely lunch and more delightful conversations. Our starter was Fresh Baked Garlic & Herb Focaccia, and I selected the Lois Lake Steelhead Salad for my main course. This was the best trout I’ve ever eaten. I still left room for dessert and enjoyed the Lemon Lavender Posset. This was accompanied by a locally made macaron in the Rocky Mountaineer colors of blue and gold. Nice touch!

A Delicious Lunch

Although the meal was delicious, we were often distracted by the amazing views out the windows. One such view was Hell’s Gate, the narrowest part of the Fraser River with towering rocks and dangerous rapids. This area was a special challenge when building the railway. Men were lowered down the steep canyon walls on ropes and makeshift ladders to drill and pack holes full of dynamite before hurrying back up to safety.

Traveling Through Hell's Gate

Our route continued along the Fraser River, and we soon reached Cisco Crossing, where bridges for both the Canadian Pacific and Canadian National Railways cross the river. We had a great view of the beautiful orange arched bridge, which is the longest single-span bridge on the Canadian National line. Of course, we could not see the bridge that we were traveling on.

Cisco Crossing on the Fraser River

Just a few miles later, we left the muddy Fraser River and began to follow the clear blue Thompson River. The views just kept getting better as we entered the mineral-painted walls of Rainbow Canyon. Shortly thereafter, we passed through the sheer cliffs of Avalanche Alley, where rock sheds and slide detection fences protect the Canadian National track from unstable areas above.

The Thompson River, Rainbow Canyon, and Avalanche Alley

After many failed attempts, I was finally able to get a few photos of the full length of the train itself as it rounded several curves. That’s always one of my goals whenever I travel by train.

Finally, Photos of the Train Itself

The landscape began to change once again, and we soon entered one of the driest places in Canada. We saw the lovely Murray Creek Waterfall, which was still flowing in September, despite its location in this desert-like area of British Columbia. Soon, the cliffs gave way to more gentle lands with wide benches and golden grasslands. We also passed the largest osprey nest found on the route.

Murry Creek Falls, an Osprey Nest, and the Desert Landscape

We knew we were approaching the end of today’s journey when the Thompson River widened into the beautiful Kamloops Lake. As we entered the outskirts of Kamloops, we disembarked and were shuttled to our hotel in town. No, we would not be sleeping on the train. The Rocky Mountaineer travels only during daylight hours, thus ensuring that we do not miss any of the gorgeous scenery that awaits us.

Lovely Kamloops Lake