Icefields Parkway

I was up early this morning, even though our tour did not depart until almost 10:00 am, hoping to catch the sunrise over Lake Louise. I was a little late, but the light on the mountains was still beautiful.

Early Morning Light Touching the Mountains Over Lake Louise

With a bit of time to spare, I was able to tour the public spaces at the Fairmont Chateau Lake Louise. Like the Fairmont Banff Springs, this hotel was originally constructed in 1890 for the Canadian Pacific Railway as “a hotel for outdoor enthusiasts and alpinists.” After several fires, the main wings of today’s hotel were completed in 1912 and 1925.

I was intrigued by the chandelier in the main lobby that is held up by four maidens, facing each of the cardinal directions. These figures are said to represent the wives of the Swiss mountain guides, who would hold up lanterns late at night to lead their husbands safely home after a day of work.

Interior Spaces at Fairmont Chateau Lake Louise

Because of the recent fires in Jasper National Park, Tim and I did not know if we would be traveling to Jasper when we left Colorado, since the Town of Jasper had just reopened on September 6, 2024. That portion of our tour was “To Be Determined.” The Jasper Park Lodge, another Canadian Pacific Railway hotel where we were scheduled to stay, was still closed, and we were only notified of our alternate hotel two days ago. I had begun to wonder if we would be staying in a tent!

Luckily, our tour today from Lake Louise to Jasper did take place. We followed the Icefields Parkway as it wound its way along the Continental Divide through some of the most spectacular mountain landscapes in North America. It was a drive that I had always wanted to take, and when it was over, I could understand why the parkway is rated as one of the top drives in the world.

The Icefields Parkway is dotted with more than 100 glaciers, majestic mountains, dramatic rock spires, cascading waterfalls, and turquoise lakes set in sweeping valleys of thick pine forests.

Our first stop was the Bow Lake Overlook. Bow Lake is the headwaters of the Bow River that we had followed for the last two days, and this was a perfect place to view not only the lake, but also the Crowfoot Glacier, which is shaped like a crow's foot.

Crowfoot Glacier and Bow Lake

Next up was Peyto Lake, the most photographed glacier-fed lake in the Canadian Rockies. Despite the clouds and fog, the lake still retained its beautiful turquoise color. As we walked a little farther down the path, we could also see the Peyto Glacier.

Peyto Lake and Peyto Glacier

The weather today was ever-changing, ranging from blue skies to rain to sleet, and even to snow. The rain even gave us a rainbow. Low-lying clouds and fog were with us most of the day, however, partly obscuring many of the views. I can only imagine how much more beautiful the scenery would be on a clear day. I guess I’ll have to come back!

A Rainbow!

Is the Weather Changing for the Better?

Our next stop was the Big Bend/Big Hill lookout. This spot was a great opportunity to look back at the road we had just traveled and appreciate the stunning views below.

Scenes into the Valley from the Big Hill/Big Bend Overlook

Almost everyone on the bus was looking forward to our next stop – the Columbia Icefield, the largest icefield in the Canadian Rockies. The Columbia Icefield straddles the Continental Divide and is an extensive network of glaciers that date back to the last Ice Age. The Athabasca Glacier, the most visible glacier in the icefield, sits across from the Icefield Center. It is the most-visited glacier in North America.

We visited the Icefield Center, and our guide explained how the glacier is receding at an alarming rate. In 2023, the glacier saw more ice melt than in any of the past 10 years.

The Columbia Icefield and Our Guide

After checking out the exhibits, we boarded a bus to take us to the base of the glacier, where we transferred to a massive Ice Explorer that drove onto the ice. I was a bit nervous as I disembarked onto the ancient ice and quickly realized that my boots were no match for the slippery ice. I had fallen once on this trip, and I had no intention of repeating that misadventure. So, I held onto the vehicle while our guide took the obligatory photo and quickly reboarded, enjoying the view from the safety of my seat. Tim did explore a bit and helped one of the passengers return in one piece.

Driving and Walking on the Icefield

That's a Pretty Cool Vehicle!

The nearby Glacier Sky Walk was a unique experience that put us on a glass-floored observation platform 918 feet over the Sunwapta Valley. Despite my fear of heights, I wasn’t too bothered by the glass floor, but it’s not an experience I’d do again.

The Glacier Sky Walk

As we returned to the Icefield Center, I happened to notice that the skies over the Columbia Icefield had brightened, and I was able to get a much better photo of this incredible place.

That's a Better Photo of the Columbia Icefield

Our tour was almost over, and as we came closer to Jasper, we could begin to see the devastation caused by the recent fire. Our guide lived in Jasper, and it was amazing to hear his experiences.

Burned Trees and the Lingering Smell of Smoke

The destruction from the fire was even more evident as we reached the Town of Jasper. It was incredible to witness just how random the fire had been. Single buildings were still standing, seemingly untouched, in the middle of an entire block that had been leveled. What could not be destroyed, however, was the natural beauty that still surrounded the town.

One-Third of the Town of Jasper Burned, but the Natural Beauty Remains

Although I was disappointed that we could not stay at the Jasper Park Lodge, I was exceedingly grateful that some of the smaller hotels in town had been spared and were beginning to open. Talking to the staff at our hotel was eye-opening, and I came away admiring everyone’s spirit and determination.