Day 2 on the Rocky Mountaineer

Tim and I were up at a ridiculously early hour so we could board our motorcoach for the short drive to the Rocky Mountaineer. As we arrived at the train, I was so happy to see mostly clear skies. No rainy weather today!

After the crew at the railroad siding waved us off, it was soon time for breakfast. The Hosts in the dining room were so friendly, and they accommodated everyone’s specific requests. This morning, I decided to try the Classic Eggs Benedict, which was delicious.

A Friendly Send-Off from Kamloops and Another Delicious Breakfast

Before long, we passed Sicamous, located between Shuswap and Mara Lakes and often called the “Houseboat Capital of Canada.” Since it was so late in the season, we only saw a few houseboats in the distance.

Beautiful Lakes, but No Houseboats Today

The Gold Level service on the Rocky Mountaineer has been wonderful. Tim and I were quite comfortable in our seats, and we certainly enjoyed looking at the scenery through the glass-domed windows.

The Gold Level Was So Worth It

At the end of each car is an observation platform, which is a favorite of the photographers on board. Everyone vied for a space next to the railing to try and capture the perfect photo. The waterfall at Stonemason’s Bridge along the Illecillewaet River was a favorite subject.

Photographers Trying to Capture their Best Shots

As we crossed the Stoney Creek Bridge, we could see another waterfall. I was particularly enamored with the striking color of Beaver River, which flows into the lovely Kinbasket Lake. I’m not sure which I enjoyed more – the views out the windows or another fabulous lunch.

Stoney Creek Waterfall, Beaver River, and Kinbasket Lake

We crossed the Kicking Horse River several times as we traveled through the Kicking Horse Canyon.

Kicking Horse Canyon

The steep grade in Kicking Horse Pass posed a serious challenge to the Canadian Pacific Railway. A permanent solution was developed in 1907, when construction began on the unique Spiral Tunnels. Modelled after a tunnel system in Switzerland, this system allowed the grade to be reduced by gentle zigzags, allowing trains to make their turns in giant, spiraling loops. Unfortunately, I couldn’t figure out how to photograph this area. Luckily, I was able to remedy that omission when we stopped at a viewpoint on one of our tours from Banff.

Not long after the Spiral Tunnels, we crossed the Continental Divide and the boundary between Banff National Park in Alberta and Yoho National Park in British Columbia. The mountain scenery just kept getting better and better.

The Magnificent Canadian Rocky Mountains

By this time, it was almost 7:00 pm, and we were all getting hungry. Not to worry, however. The Hosts served us yummy scones, with a vodka tonic (not tea) for me. This kept the hunger at bay for a little while as we passed more amazing mountain peaks, some beautifully illuminated by perfect lighting during the golden hour.

A Yummy Snack and More Spectacular Views

After dropping some passengers off in Lake Louise, we made our final passage along the Bow River, arriving in Banff at dusk. It was an amazing journey and one I’ll always remember.

Final Scenes from Our Journey Before Arriving at the Banff Station

The next part of the adventure was just beginning, however, as we were transported to the historic Banff Springs Hotel. That’s a story for tomorrow.

Onboard the Rocky Mountaineer

Traveling on Canada’s Rocky Mountaineer, considered one of the ten greatest rail journeys in the world, had been on my bucket list for quite some time. This morning, Tim and I began our trip. We were up very early, even before the Gold Lounge opened, and met our group in the lobby of the Fairmont Hotel Vancouver for the ride to the station where we would board our train. Despite my swollen and black eye, I was feeling no pain – I just looked terrible! A fellow passenger whom I met last night in the Gold Lounge had suggested that I say to anyone who looked at me, “You should see the other guy!” That always got a laugh.

The Rocky Mountaineer offers several rail routes, and we had chosen the “First Passage to the West.” This route retraces the historic route of the Canadian Pacific Railway through the Rocky Mountains, and it opened in 1885. When British Columbia joined Canada in 1871, the agreement was contingent on the building of a transcontinental railroad. The Canadian Pacific, therefore, is credited with not only building a railroad, but building a nation as well.

The Rocky Mountaineer offers two levels of service, Gold Leaf and Silver Leaf. Gold Leaf cars are bi-level, with glass-domed panoramic windows on the upper level and a dining room below. Silver Leaf cars have only one level, and meals are served at your seat. Of course, Tim and I chose Gold Leaf service, and everything about it – the car itself, the food, and the service – was truly amazing.

Our onboard Hosts attended to our every need. They offered stories about the passing landmarks and called out any wildlife sightings (sadly, there were few). They also offered snacks between meals and constantly topped off our glasses of wine or soda. We were well taken care of.

Ready to Board the Rocky Mountaineer

It was raining a little as we boarded the train and began to settle into our comfortable seats. Almost immediately, we were ushered downstairs to the dining room for breakfast. As is common on most trains, we were seated with another couple and enjoyed our conversation. I selected the Lemon & Honey Buttermilk Pancakes, and they were delicious.

A Delicious Pancake Breakfast

It was rainy and foggy when we left Vancouver. As we traveled under the Fraser River Swing Bridge, we passed from the BNSF Railway tracks to ones owned by Canadian National Railway. We traveled through the rich agricultural fields of the fertile Fraser Valley and then entered the dramatic Fraser Canyon.

Traveling from Vancouver, Through the Fraser Valley, Into Fraser Canyon

By this time, we had returned to the dining room for a leisurely lunch and more delightful conversations. Our starter was Fresh Baked Garlic & Herb Focaccia, and I selected the Lois Lake Steelhead Salad for my main course. This was the best trout I’ve ever eaten. I still left room for dessert and enjoyed the Lemon Lavender Posset. This was accompanied by a locally made macaron in the Rocky Mountaineer colors of blue and gold. Nice touch!

A Delicious Lunch

Although the meal was delicious, we were often distracted by the amazing views out the windows. One such view was Hell’s Gate, the narrowest part of the Fraser River with towering rocks and dangerous rapids. This area was a special challenge when building the railway. Men were lowered down the steep canyon walls on ropes and makeshift ladders to drill and pack holes full of dynamite before hurrying back up to safety.

Traveling Through Hell's Gate

Our route continued along the Fraser River, and we soon reached Cisco Crossing, where bridges for both the Canadian Pacific and Canadian National Railways cross the river. We had a great view of the beautiful orange arched bridge, which is the longest single-span bridge on the Canadian National line. Of course, we could not see the bridge that we were traveling on.

Cisco Crossing on the Fraser River

Just a few miles later, we left the muddy Fraser River and began to follow the clear blue Thompson River. The views just kept getting better as we entered the mineral-painted walls of Rainbow Canyon. Shortly thereafter, we passed through the sheer cliffs of Avalanche Alley, where rock sheds and slide detection fences protect the Canadian National track from unstable areas above.

The Thompson River, Rainbow Canyon, and Avalanche Alley

After many failed attempts, I was finally able to get a few photos of the full length of the train itself as it rounded several curves. That’s always one of my goals whenever I travel by train.

Finally, Photos of the Train Itself

The landscape began to change once again, and we soon entered one of the driest places in Canada. We saw the lovely Murray Creek Waterfall, which was still flowing in September, despite its location in this desert-like area of British Columbia. Soon, the cliffs gave way to more gentle lands with wide benches and golden grasslands. We also passed the largest osprey nest found on the route.

Murry Creek Falls, an Osprey Nest, and the Desert Landscape

We knew we were approaching the end of today’s journey when the Thompson River widened into the beautiful Kamloops Lake. As we entered the outskirts of Kamloops, we disembarked and were shuttled to our hotel in town. No, we would not be sleeping on the train. The Rocky Mountaineer travels only during daylight hours, thus ensuring that we do not miss any of the gorgeous scenery that awaits us.

Lovely Kamloops Lake

A Trip to the Emergency Room

Before leaving Colorado, Tim and I had booked a six-hour private tour of Vancouver for this morning. Tim had never been to Vancouver, and it had been quite some time since I had visited, so we wanted to make the most of our one day here.

Unfortunately, things did not go as planned. After breakfast in the Gold Lounge, I received a text message from our tour leader Tima, letting me know that she was waiting for us at the hotel entrance. Tim and I walked out to the driveway, where I started looking at my phone, trying to match the license plate number in the text with the cars parked there. Sadly, I wasn’t looking down and missed a small curb. I fell forward onto the pavement, hitting my head directly on my left eye.

Tim and Tima watched in horror as I fell, and everyone rushed to help me up. I was led back into the hotel as the blood was dripping down my face. The hotel’s security director soon arrived with a first aid kit and patched me up as best he could. The skin above my eye had been caught between the frame and lens of my glasses, and, therefore, I could not remove my glasses. It was so bizarre. Unfortunately, I was informed that I would need stitches. Ugh!

Although the hotel offered to send me to the nearest Emergency Room, Tima immediately took charge and knew exactly what to do. She and Tim helped me to her car, and she drove me to St. Paul’s Hospital Emergency Room, the only hospital in downtown Vancouver.

Tima stayed with me as I checked in, and she, Tim, and I began the long wait to be seen. Luckily, I really wasn’t in pain, which was surprising. While we waited, we asked Tima about her story. Tima had emigrated to Canada from Oman, and she now feels that Canada is home. I loved hearing about how she adapted to life here with the help of the Persian community that she is a part of. I have such admiration for people who move to a new country, often knowing no one and not speaking the language.

After more than two hours, I was finally moved to a cubicle, and Tim and Tima remained at my side. 

Tim and Tima Stayed by My Side While We Waited for the Doctor to See Me

When the doctor arrived to check me out, he tried to remove my glasses, and we all yelled, “NO!” He was taken aback, but when he realized what had happened, he seemed as perplexed as everyone had been. He then said that he would have to cut the skin to remove the glasses.

I asked Tim to photograph the procedure, but I’m only including a few of the least graphic photos here! It didn’t take long for him to patch me up, and I walked out with three stitches.

A Very Kind Doctor Patched Me Up

Before and After - After Being Patched Up at the Hotel (left)
and After Receiving Stitches at the Hospital (right)

I asked Tima to take me back to the hotel and to give Tim an abbreviated tour of Vancouver, which she did. Tima was an amazing, thoughtful, and compassionate person, and she made the entire experience much less daunting than it could have been. Tim and I were in good hands with her.

The management at the hotel continued to check in with me to make sure I was okay and to see if I needed anything. The staff at the Gold Lounge was especially wonderful and took great care of me. Although I napped in my room, and although they would have brought anything to me there, I elected to go to the lounge later in the day to enjoy afternoon tea. It was so nice to have everything I needed there and not have to leave to find something to eat.

My Only Photo of the Gold Lounge Doesn't Do It Justice - It Was a Lovely Space

Arriving in Vancouver

When I arrived at Portland International Airport (PDX) the night before last, I was tired and barely took notice of the airport’s new design. I therefore planned to arrive early this morning to see what all the buzz was all about.

The newly revealed terminal is said to be the most stunning airport in the country, and one that has set a high bar for airport design. Although I haven’t visited every airport in the US, I would have to agree with that assessment.

Housed under a spectacular roof made completely of sustainably sourced local timber, PDX’s main terminal is a sight to behold. Covering an area of nine acres, the roof is an elegant, latticed celebration of Portland’s robust forestry and timber industries, as well as the ecology of the Pacific Northwest. Natural daylight spills into the terminal through 49 skylights, including several large ovals that penetrate each of the main arches in the center of the building. It’s enough light to support mature trees.

The Spectacular New PDX Airport Terminal

I had a great time wandering through the different spaces before heading to my terminal. On the way, I stopped at the United Club and was surprised to find it empty. I only stayed long enough to have a quick breakfast before leaving to reach my gate.

An Empty United Club - Amazing!

My flight to Vancouver was on Air Canada Jazz, the airline’s Express brand. We walked onto the tarmac and climbed the stairs to reach our plane. I was lucky to have a window seat on the right side of the plane and was able to get great views of Mount Hood, Mount Adams, and the crater of Mount St. Helens before we flew into the clouds.

Mount Hood (top left), Mount Adams (bottom left), and Mount St. Helens (right)

We arrived on time, and I breezed through customs since I had used the ArriveCAN app to prepare my customs and immigration declaration in advance. My luggage arrived, and I walked outside to meet my driver. I had a great conversation with Chen and learned that he had immigrated to Vancouver from China several years ago. His was an interesting story.

The ArriveCAN App Speeds Arrivals into Canada

Once Chen dropped me off at the Fairmont Hotel Vancouver, it was time to start the second phase of my Canadian trip – the Canadian Train Adventure.

When I checked in at the Front Desk, I had the very good fortune to be helped by Diana. We chatted briefly about my trip and my plan to visit many of the former Canadian Pacific Railway hotels. Then, she made an interesting suggestion. She informed me that for a little over $200, I could upgrade my stay to the Fairmont Gold floor, with its personalized service, complimentary food and drink, and private lounge.

The idea was very tempting, and she sealed the deal when she was able to snag a deluxe corner room that had been frequented by unnamed VIPs. Diana warned me, however, that I would be forever spoiled, and she turned out to be right.

The room was beautiful, with every amenity that I might have wanted. As soon as I settled in, I wandered down to the lounge where I was given a tour. It was afternoon teatime, and I indulged in dainty sandwiches and delicious scones.

An Elegant Room at the Fairmont Hotel Vancouver, and a Very Cool Wood Key Card

I also took the time to find an ATM to stock up on Canadian currency and to find a likely spot photograph the hotel, not an easy task in downtown Vancouver. Exploring the hotel was fun, and I loved the heritage photos and artifacts. The original architectural drawings, in particular, caught my attention.

Fairmont Hotel Vancouver

Original Architectural Drawings

Before long, Tim arrived, and I think he was a bit surprised, but pleased, with the room. We were both tired, and it was so nice to be able to return to the lounge for evening canapes and enough substantial food that became our dinner.

We Didn't Eat on the Hotel's Original China in the Lounge, but We Did Have Real China

12 Hours and 100 Miles

Kevin and I have been great friends since we worked together in Miami in the early 2000s. He always shows me a good time when we get together, and today was no exception.

After picking me up at my hotel, we drove to Elmer’s, a Northwest favorite, for breakfast. Here, Kevin introduced me to German pancakes, billed as “almost as big as Crater Lake!” And they were! I couldn’t believe how large mine was, but it was so delicious, especially with the lingonberry butter. The texture of the pancake reminded me of a crepe, but with crispy edges. Yum!

My German Pancake with Lingonberry Butter

From there, we crossed the Columbia River to Washington State and made a brief stop at Fort Vancouver National Historic Site. I had visited the park and toured the frontier fur trading post on previous occasions, but this time I was more interested in the site’s later history.

Although we didn’t have time to walk around, we were able to drive past the Vancouver Barracks, one of the nation's most historic military posts, where we saw the East Barracks and beautiful houses on Officers’ Row. At the visitor center, I was surprised to find another park with interpretive displays in the bathrooms. I even peeked into the men’s room to grab a photo of its ceiling.

The Later Buildings at Fort Vancouver National Historic Site

Ceramics Found by Archeologists Inspired the Painted Ceilings in the Visitor Center Bathrooms

After a drive through Vancouver’s downtown waterfront district, we then crossed the Columbia River back into Oregon.

I had one more National Park Unit that I wanted to visit, so Kevin drove us to Tualatin, Oregon, where we stopped at the public library to check out an exhibition on the Ice Age Floods National Geologic Trail and then walk the adjacent Ice Age Floods Loop Trail.

I learned that each time Ice Age Floods surged beyond the confines of the Columbia Gorge, they covered the lowlands of current-day Portland and the Willamette Valley with waters up to 400 feet deep. The library exhibit was small, but informative, and the trail was very cool, encouraging us to celebrate Tualatin’s Ice Age legacy.

Ice Age Floods Exhibit at the Tualatin Public Library

Kevin and Sarah Having Fun on the Ice Age Floods Trail

The highlight of the day, however, was a classic wine tasting at Dobbes Family Winery in Dundee, Oregon, where Kevin pours on the weekends. Kevin just started working there, but I could tell from the staff comments that he is already one of the family. The wines were delicious, and we even got to taste freshly picked pinot noir grapes. I loved meeting the team, especially Sarah, Kevin’s boss.

Wine Tasting at Dobbes Family Winery

After we left Dobbes, Kevin gave me a quick tour of Linfield University, where he recently attained his Wine and Spirit Education Trust (WSET) certification. What a beautiful, tree-filled campus.

It was now time for dinner, and we decided on a pizza at Geraldi’s, an authentic East Coast deli serving homemade Italian fare. And not just any pizza, but the Barile, Geraldi’s signature! The Barile was described as “Spaghetti mixed with marinara sauce, chopped meatballs laid on top of a cheese pie all baked together into one amazing masterpiece!” And it was! I’d never had a spaghetti pizza before, and although it may sound odd, the combination was delicious.

Linfield University and Pizza

After ending the day with a walk around the charming town of McMinnville, and after sampling a few more wines there, Kevin drove me back to my hotel so I could pack for my morning flight to Vancouver, British Columbia.

As usual, my day with Kevin was nonstop fun. As he described it, Kevin gave me 12 hours and 100 miles of adventure in one day. What more could I ask for!

Rosie the Riveter

I checked out of my hotel this morning so I could spend the day with Rosie the Riveter. The actual name of this park is Rosie the Riveter / World War II Home Front National Historical Park. What a mouthful! I believe its name is the longest of all National Park Units!

I was especially looking forward to visiting this park since I’ve been fascinated with life at home during World War II. At the park, I learned that the legacy of the Home Front was far reaching and created a profound economic and social impact on American culture.

The park is located in Richmond, California, a critical hub for the war effort at home and a major wartime shipbuilding center. The visitor center is housed in the historic "Oil House" of the Ford Assembly Plant, which originally fueled Ford’s assembly lines and later supported the production of World War II jeeps and tanks. The park’s outstanding exhibits and films gave me a thorough understanding of this period’s amazing stories.

The Ford Assembly Plant and the Visitor Center (lower right)

The Exhibits at the Visitor Center Were Excellent

The attack on Pearl Harbor on December 7, 1941, transformed America into the Home Front. As the park explains, “Everything changed, especially the swelling industrial workforce. It included millions more minorities, in particular African Americans, and women, embodied by ‘Rosie the Riveter.’ Richmond, California typified wartime boomtowns across the country that endured deep and rapid change as migrants sought work in defense industries.”

At least six million women entered the US workforce during the war, and many had to overcome Depression-era attitudes about women working at all. Many female defense workers were riveters, and the “Rosie the Riveter” icon and song were a central part of the campaign to recruit women and persuade men to accept them.

I Never Could Capture the Iconic Rosie Pose

In addition to the visitor center, the park includes ten other sites that were instrumental during the war. I first visited the Rosie the Riveter Memorial, a poignant tribute to the women who worked in factories and shipyards. The memorial represents the hull of a ship under construction and honors the invaluable contributions and sacrifices made by these women.

Rosie the Riveter Memorial

I also drove by one of the villages built to accommodate the influx of shipyard workers, a hospital, and an early childcare center that allowed parents to focus on their work while knowing their children were cared for.

Most interesting, however, was Kaiser Shipyard No. 3, which is still a working shipyard. I was able to view the SS Red Oak Victory Ship, a preserved Victory ship that served in the Pacific Theater, although it was closed for tours today. Nearby were the Machine Shop, Paint Shop, and General Warehouse, an impressive, concrete Moderne-style building.

Kaiser Shipyard No. 3

Although it was still early afternoon, I decided to head to the Oakland Airport, where I was catching a flight to Portland, Oregon. Here, I was able to drop off my rental car, and I was quite relieved to turn in the keys. I was somewhat amazed that I, and the car, survived two days of East Bay traffic in one piece!

The shuttle dropped me off at the Southwest Airlines terminal, where I checked one bag. I struck up a conversation with the agent working the outside counter, and she pointed me in the direction of the Priority Lounge, located in the main terminal. I had nothing smaller than a $5 bill for a tip, but that was fine with me.

I walked away, but not long after, I heard someone calling out. I finally turned around and saw the agent running toward me with my phone in her hand. I had left it behind on the counter. I was never so grateful to anyone than I was at that moment. I’m sure she would have done the same even if I hadn’t tipped her, but I viewed it as the best $5 I had spent on this trip.

It was a long walk to the Priority Lounge, but worth it. Although the lounge was crowded, it was a nice place to relax for a few hours, and I was able to finally get something to eat.

The Priority Lounge Was a Pleasant Place to Hang Out

After making my way to the Southwest terminal, we soon boarded a full flight, and I managed to get a window seat near the front of the plane. We left on time, but within minutes, the pilot announced that there were computer issues, and we returned to the gate.

We ended up sitting on the plane for almost three hours before we were able to depart. By that time, however, we would arrive too late for my friend Kevin to meet me for dinner in Portland. I wasn’t very happy since that would cut into the time we could spend together. Oh well. I just tried to go with the flow.

The flight was uneventful, but it was almost 10:00pm when we landed in Portland. Luckily, my hotel was near the airport, the shuttle picked me up, and I finally checked into the Hyatt Place. I’ll meet Kevin tomorrow morning for breakfast.

Visiting with Eugene O’Neill and John Muir

My primary reason for stopping in Emeryville, California, was to visit the National Park Units in the area. Today, I had a reservation for the Eugene O’Neill National Historic Site in the morning, with a planned stop at the John Muir National Historic Site in the afternoon.

Because the East Bay region is so spread out, I needed a rental car to visit these properties. The folks at Enterprise Rent-a-Car picked me up from my hotel, and I was soon caught up in California’s infamous traffic. Luckily, I had avoided the worst of the rush hour nightmare, and I arrived in Danville in time for my tour of the Eugene O’Neill National Historic Site at 10:00 am.

The Eugene O’Neill National Historic Site was the home of America’s greatest, and only Nobel Prize-winning, playwright during the pinnacle of his writing career. Tao House was O’Neill’s sanctuary, and we had an exceptional tour of his home. I was only vaguely familiar with O’Neill's work, but I gained a deeper understanding of his life and place in American culture from our very informative ranger, who made O’Neill’s story come to life.

Tao House, the Eugene O'Neill National Historic Site

Tao House Reflects O'Neill's Interest in Eastern Philosophy and
His Wife Carlotta's Passion for Oriental Art and Decor

Eugene O'Neill's Study

The annual Eugene O’Neill Festival was underway, and National Park Service staff members were setting up for the productions that were to be staged at Tao House. One event was planned for the front lawn, while the main production was scheduled to take place in the original barn.

Views from the House, and the Barn, Which Now Is a Stage for the Eugene O'Neill Festival

I next traveled to Martinez, California, where I visited the John Muir National Historic Site. Most people are familiar with Muir, America’s most famous naturalist and conservationist, but few know about his life in Martinez as a fruit rancher. I certainly didn’t, but an excellent film brought me up to speed. 

Muir married into the fruit-ranching Strentzel family in 1880, and this house was his home until he died in 1914. Muir managed the fruit business until 1887, when his wife Louie convinced him to resume his conservation work and travels.

John Muir National Historic Site

Although there was no guided tour of the Italianate style mansion, volunteer docents were available in the house to answer questions. I was even able to climb all the way to the cupola and ring the bell.

John Muir's Study and the Cupola

A portion of the historic orchard has been preserved, and visitors are allowed to pick the fruit. Only quince and grapes were in season during my visit, but the grapes were quite tasty, even though they did have seeds.

The Historic Orchard

While I was at the site, several diseased and dead trees were being removed. Still standing, however, was the Giant Sequoia that John Muir planted in late 1800s. Although the tree is now dead, it remains a significant, contributing feature of the landscape. The National Park Service has not yet determined what to do with the tree.

The Giant Sequoia Planted by John Muir

Also on the property is the Martinez Adobe, a site on the Juan Bautista de Anza National Historic Trail. Built in the early 1840s by the Martínez family, early settlers of the area, the adobe reflects the architectural style and lifestyle of early Californian settlers, showcasing elements of Spanish and Mexican influence in its construction and design. Unfortunately, the house is not open due to structural concerns.

The Martinez Adobe

I decided to return to my hotel a little earlier than I would have liked to escape the worst of the afternoon traffic. Since I had lots of time, I stopped at an IKEA store, which was less than five minutes from my hotel. It had been a long time since I had visited one of my favorite stores, but nothing tempted me today, expect for a dinner of Swedish meatballs!