Day 3 on the Canadian

Once again, Tim and I slept in and missed breakfast in the dining room. When we went to the Park Car in search of lattes and pastries, we saw that one of our concierges was preparing yogurt parfaits. We each requested one, and her concoction of honey, Saskatoon berry chutney, and plain yogurt topped with granola was delicious.

A Delicious Breakfast

We introduced ourselves to our new concierges – Jennifer, Lauren, and Dori – and quizzed them about Winnipeg, where they had onboarded. We had arrived there after midnight, and I was disappointed not to have seen the city’s beautiful railway station, one of the largest in Western Canada. They described the station to me and proudly mentioned that Winnipeg is home to the Canadian Museum for Human Rights, the only museum in the world devoted to human rights awareness and education. That’s one more reason to plan a trip back to Canada.

Lauren, Dori, and Jennifer

I always enjoy talking with the staff wherever we travel, and these three women were so interesting and knowledgeable. I asked about the orange shirt pins they were wearing, and Jennifer explained the story behind the National Day for Truth and Reconciliation, a federal holiday in Canada on September 30 that was established in 2021.

From 1874 to 1996, approximately 150,000 children from First Nations, Inuit, and Metis communities were sent to residential schools. In 1973, when a six-year-old girl wore a beautiful orange shirt to one of these schools, the shirt was taken from her and never given back. Since then, orange shirts, rooted in trauma and heartbreak, have become a symbol of hope, reconciliation, and a commitment to a better future. Orange shirts, shirt pins, and ribbons are therefore worn on the National Day for Truth and Reconciliation, also known as Orange Shirt Day, to honor the Indigenous survivors of residential schools.

Canada is much farther along than the United States in formally recognizing the damage inflicted by these residential schools. Perhaps it’s a welcome coincidence that President Biden just established the Carlisle Federal Indian Boarding School National Monument as the 432nd unit in the National Park System. This proclamation, which "acknowledges the painful past of forced assimilation of Native children through the implementation of federal Indian boarding school policies," occurred just two days before I wrote this blog post on December 11.

I’ve also noticed that the Canadian companies we’ve encountered acknowledge with respect and gratitude the Indigenous peoples of the lands through which we travel. Statements by guides and on publications include a recognition of the stewardship of the Indigenous nations over these lands and waters, offer thanks for sharing these lands, and commit to fostering reconciliation. I wish companies in the United States would do something similar.

While Tim and I were in the dining room for another delicious lunch, I happened to look out the window as the westbound Canadian train was passing by. My photo is blurry, but I thought it would be fun to include it.

Watching the Westbound Canadian Train Pass By

Winnipeg marks the geographic boundary between the expansive prairies of Eastern Alberta, Saskatchewan, and Western Manitoba and the boreal forests of Eastern Manitoba and Ontario. This vast area east of Winnipeg is known as the Great Canadian Shield, a sparsely populated area of lakes, fir trees, and rocky outcrops. The farther east we traveled, the more lakes we could see.

The Scenery Was Very Different Today

Every afternoon we have been treated to beautifully prepared snacks and drinks of our choice. I have enjoyed all of them.

 A Different Snack Was Presented Every Afternoon

The Park Car is restricted to Prestige class passengers until 4:00 pm, when other sleeping car passengers are permitted to join us. Although I’ve had great conversations with several of my fellow Prestige passengers, I have enjoyed interacting with the “lower class,” as they jokingly refer to themselves, even more. I especially related to a man from Sweden, with whom I compared our many train adventures. The other people that had joined him were from Germany and Austria. People from Australia and Great Britain were also well represented on the train.

Day 2 on the Canadian

Tim and I slept in so late this morning that we missed breakfast. Not to worry, however. We had freshly brewed lattes and pastries in the Park Car.

Today was a totally relaxing day on board the Canadian, and I enjoyed the expansive views of the wide-open prairies of Saskatchewan. We saw fields of grain being harvested and learned that virtually all grain exports in Canada travel by rail. I did not expect to see wildlife, but I did catch sight of lots of waterfowl and a few domesticated bison.

I Enjoyed Watching the Rolling Prairies Go By

Harvest Time

Lots of Waterfowl and a Few Bison

Prestige class features personal concierge service, and Martin, our Head Concierge, gave a talk this afternoon in the dome level entitled “Trains 101.” As a train buff, I was eager to hear his talk and learned so much about the history of this railway, as well as signal lights, mileposts, and other railway signs to watch for. I think he had fun demonstrating the whistles that we might hear.

Martin's Talk on Trains 101

After Martin’s talk, I remained upstairs and enjoyed looking down the rooftops of the streamlined, stainless steel cars. I even managed to capture a few shots of the entire length of the train.

These Classic Cars Are Beautiful

All crew members were leaving us later tonight when we were scheduled to arrive in Winnepeg. We personally thanked Anne-Lydie and Jenay, who were so friendly and who had taken such good care of us in the Park Car. In the dining room, the chefs said “Goodbye” and “Thank You” in writing on our dessert plates.

Smiling Anne-Lydie and Jenay

Goodbye and Thank You to the Chefs - The Food Has Been Delicious!

On The Canadian

Today, Tim and I began the next phase of our Canadian Rail Adventure, which would take us from Jasper to Toronto over four days and three nights. Our train was not scheduled to depart until 12:45 pm, so I had time this morning to take care of a little business. It was time to have my stitches removed! 

I walked the several blocks from our hotel to the Jasper Healthcare Center, where I found an empty Emergency Room. Amazing! A very friendly nurse removed the stitches, noted that the cut was healing well, and placed several small adhesive strips on the cut as a backup.

No More Stitches, Thanks to My Nurse, But the Bruising Is Still Bad

After returning to the hotel, Tim and I caught a taxi to the Jasper Railway Station. Since we had lots of time to spare, I wandered down the street to check out the Jasper Information Center. This log and stone building is one of the finest examples of the type of Rustic architecture found in many Canadian national parks. Completed in 1914, it introduced a building tradition based on the use of local construction materials. I found it interesting that this Rustic architectural style was popular in both Canadian and U.S. national parks during the early twentieth century.

Jasper Information Center

The Canadian National Railway station at Jasper was built in 1925 and is one of Canada’s Heritage Railway Stations. It was one of the largest and finest stations to be built by the new Canadian National Railway immediately after its formation. In the waiting room, Tim and I reconnected with several of our fellow passengers from our Rocky Mountaineer trip.

Jasper Heritage Railway Station

Tim and I were waiting for the Canadian, a legendary transcontinental train that runs between Vancouver and Toronto and is operated by VIA Rail, Canada’s national passenger rail service. We had decided to take the Rocky Mountaineer from Vancouver and then begin our journey on the Canadian in Jasper. I anxiously awaited the Canadian’s arrival at the station and my first view of the distinctive, stainless steel cars that reflect the design aesthetics of the 1950s.

The Route of the Canadian - We Boarded in Jasper

Ready to Board the Canadian

As soon as we boarded the train, we were escorted to our cabin and discovered what the Canadian's Prestige class was all about. This “most exclusive” class of service included a large bedroom with a corner sofa that converted to a double bed, a private bathroom with shower, a flat-screen TV with video selection, a complimentary mini-bar, and an extra-large window. Our carry-on bags were waiting for us in our room.

Our Fully-Equipped Cabin

At the end of the train, we found the Park Car, the Canadian's signature vehicle that is the bar/dome/lounge car for Prestige class passengers. The Bullet Lounge at the very rear offers comfortable seating and great views back along the track. Upstairs, a raised observation dome provides panoramic views. Located at the front of the car is the Mural Lounge, which offers a full-service bar.

The Bullet Lounge

The Upper Level Observation Dome

The Mural Lounge - Our Park Car Is Named the Prince Albert Park Car,
Named After Saskatchewan's Prince Albert National Park

I enjoyed hanging out in the Park Car, but I took very few photos of the passing scenes. As we began our journey across the prairies of Alberta and Saskatchewan, I decided to simply enjoy the scenery and not worry about recording it.

A Few Scenes Along the Way

Tim and I enjoyed dinner in the dining car and found the meal and service every bit as good as what we had experienced on the Rocky Mountaineer. We have certainly been spoiled.

The Dining Car

When Tim and I returned from dinner, our bed had been made. It wasn’t long before we were both ready to call it a night. It had been a very good day.

Ready for Bed

Icefields Parkway

I was up early this morning, even though our tour did not depart until almost 10:00 am, hoping to catch the sunrise over Lake Louise. I was a little late, but the light on the mountains was still beautiful.

Early Morning Light Touching the Mountains Over Lake Louise

With a bit of time to spare, I was able to tour the public spaces at the Fairmont Chateau Lake Louise. Like the Fairmont Banff Springs, this hotel was originally constructed in 1890 for the Canadian Pacific Railway as “a hotel for outdoor enthusiasts and alpinists.” After several fires, the main wings of today’s hotel were completed in 1912 and 1925.

I was intrigued by the chandelier in the main lobby that is held up by four maidens, facing each of the cardinal directions. These figures are said to represent the wives of the Swiss mountain guides, who would hold up lanterns late at night to lead their husbands safely home after a day of work.

Interior Spaces at Fairmont Chateau Lake Louise

Because of the recent fires in Jasper National Park, Tim and I did not know if we would be traveling to Jasper when we left Colorado, since the Town of Jasper had just reopened on September 6, 2024. That portion of our tour was “To Be Determined.” The Jasper Park Lodge, another Canadian Pacific Railway hotel where we were scheduled to stay, was still closed, and we were only notified of our alternate hotel two days ago. I had begun to wonder if we would be staying in a tent!

Luckily, our tour today from Lake Louise to Jasper did take place. We followed the Icefields Parkway as it wound its way along the Continental Divide through some of the most spectacular mountain landscapes in North America. It was a drive that I had always wanted to take, and when it was over, I could understand why the parkway is rated as one of the top drives in the world.

The Icefields Parkway is dotted with more than 100 glaciers, majestic mountains, dramatic rock spires, cascading waterfalls, and turquoise lakes set in sweeping valleys of thick pine forests.

Our first stop was the Bow Lake Overlook. Bow Lake is the headwaters of the Bow River that we had followed for the last two days, and this was a perfect place to view not only the lake, but also the Crowfoot Glacier, which is shaped like a crow's foot.

Crowfoot Glacier and Bow Lake

Next up was Peyto Lake, the most photographed glacier-fed lake in the Canadian Rockies. Despite the clouds and fog, the lake still retained its beautiful turquoise color. As we walked a little farther down the path, we could also see the Peyto Glacier.

Peyto Lake and Peyto Glacier

The weather today was ever-changing, ranging from blue skies to rain to sleet, and even to snow. The rain even gave us a rainbow. Low-lying clouds and fog were with us most of the day, however, partly obscuring many of the views. I can only imagine how much more beautiful the scenery would be on a clear day. I guess I’ll have to come back!

A Rainbow!

Is the Weather Changing for the Better?

Our next stop was the Big Bend/Big Hill lookout. This spot was a great opportunity to look back at the road we had just traveled and appreciate the stunning views below.

Scenes into the Valley from the Big Hill/Big Bend Overlook

Almost everyone on the bus was looking forward to our next stop – the Columbia Icefield, the largest icefield in the Canadian Rockies. The Columbia Icefield straddles the Continental Divide and is an extensive network of glaciers that date back to the last Ice Age. The Athabasca Glacier, the most visible glacier in the icefield, sits across from the Icefield Center. It is the most-visited glacier in North America.

We visited the Icefield Center, and our guide explained how the glacier is receding at an alarming rate. In 2023, the glacier saw more ice melt than in any of the past 10 years.

The Columbia Icefield and Our Guide

After checking out the exhibits, we boarded a bus to take us to the base of the glacier, where we transferred to a massive Ice Explorer that drove onto the ice. I was a bit nervous as I disembarked onto the ancient ice and quickly realized that my boots were no match for the slippery ice. I had fallen once on this trip, and I had no intention of repeating that misadventure. So, I held onto the vehicle while our guide took the obligatory photo and quickly reboarded, enjoying the view from the safety of my seat. Tim did explore a bit and helped one of the passengers return in one piece.

Driving and Walking on the Icefield

That's a Pretty Cool Vehicle!

The nearby Glacier Sky Walk was a unique experience that put us on a glass-floored observation platform 918 feet over the Sunwapta Valley. Despite my fear of heights, I wasn’t too bothered by the glass floor, but it’s not an experience I’d do again.

The Glacier Sky Walk

As we returned to the Icefield Center, I happened to notice that the skies over the Columbia Icefield had brightened, and I was able to get a much better photo of this incredible place.

That's a Better Photo of the Columbia Icefield

Our tour was almost over, and as we came closer to Jasper, we could begin to see the devastation caused by the recent fire. Our guide lived in Jasper, and it was amazing to hear his experiences.

Burned Trees and the Lingering Smell of Smoke

The destruction from the fire was even more evident as we reached the Town of Jasper. It was incredible to witness just how random the fire had been. Single buildings were still standing, seemingly untouched, in the middle of an entire block that had been leveled. What could not be destroyed, however, was the natural beauty that still surrounded the town.

One-Third of the Town of Jasper Burned, but the Natural Beauty Remains

Although I was disappointed that we could not stay at the Jasper Park Lodge, I was exceedingly grateful that some of the smaller hotels in town had been spared and were beginning to open. Talking to the staff at our hotel was eye-opening, and I came away admiring everyone’s spirit and determination.

Mountain Lakes and Waterfalls

It was another early morning today, as we checked out of the Fairmont Banff Springs and departed on our “Mountain Lakes and Waterfalls” tour, which took us from Banff to Lake Louise via several scenic spots in Banff and Yoho National Parks.

Our first stop was Lake Louise. While everyone else was admiring the views of the lake, Tim and I took the opportunity to check into the Fairmont Chateau Lake Louise, where we would be spending the night. I knew we would have more time to see the lake later this afternoon.

From Lake Louise, we headed to Moraine Lake, one of the most beautiful lakes in the Canadian Rockies. Unfortunately, we could not fully appreciate its beauty due to the cloudy weather and low-lying fog. Oh, how I was wishing for the beautiful blue skies we had yesterday. On sunny days, the bright turquoise color and the dramatic surroundings of the Valley of the Ten Peaks make Moraine Lake one of the most photographed scenes in Banff National Park.

It Was Chilly at Moraine Lake

The drive through Yoho National Park along the Trans-Canada Highway was especially scenic, and I kept admiring the surrounding mountains on the way.

The Skies Were Clearing As We Traveled Along the Trans-Canada Highway

We stopped at the Spiral Tunnels Viewpoint, where diagrams and a model explained how trains make their way through the mountains. We had traveled through the tunnels on the Rocky Mountaineer, but it was these displays that helped me appreciate this amazing engineering feat.

Explaining How the Spiral Tunnels Work

From the viewpoint, we could see the Lower Spiral Tunnel in Mt. Ogden, and we waited for a freight train to arrive. It was very cool as we watched the train entering the tunnel. Although high trees blocked most of the view, we did catch a glimpse of the train as it reappeared on the track below. At the same time, the rear of the train was still entering the tunnel.

A Freight Train Entering and Exiting the Lower Spiral Tunnel

The weather had improved by the time we arrived at Emerald Lake, where we stopped for lunch at the historic Emerald Lake Lodge. Lunch was delicious, and we had time afterwards to enjoy views of the stunning emerald colored water that sets this lake apart. The backdrop of the snowcapped Rockies only added to the scenic beauty.

Stopping for Lunch at Emerald Lake Lodge

Beautiful Emerald Lake

We still had more stops on our tour, the next of which was Natural Bridge. Here, we witnessed the force of the Kicking Horse River as it cascaded under a naturally formed stone bridge.

Natural Bridge on the Kicking Horse River

Adjacent to the parking lot at Natural Bridge, our guide pointed out a plaque and statue. I was surprised to read that Canada operated internment camps during World War I, not unlike our infamous Japanese internment camps during World War II. In 1915 and 1916, approximately 200 men, mostly East and Central Europeans, were unjustly interned as enemy aliens under the War Measures Act. These prisoners labored on national park infrastructure projects such as land clearing and road construction. The statue, titled “Last Man Standing," represents one of these internees.

Remembering and Memorializing the Internment Camp in Yoho National Park

Getting to our last stop was almost as exciting than the attraction itself. The road to Takakkaw Falls features the tightest switchback I’ve ever seen. It’s so tight that our motorcoach had to back up the center section! Our driver did a great job, and the approaching cars even waited until we finished this unusual maneuver. The switchback is so renown that it was even featured on postcards in the 1950s.

The Switchback

We safely reached the parking lot for Takakkaw Falls and had time to hike there. Takakkaw Falls is he second-highest waterfall in Canada and is said to be the most stunning waterfall in the Canadian Rockies.

Takakkaw Falls 

We finally returned to the Fairmont Chateau Lake Louise in the late afternoon and checked into our lakeview room. Here, I was prepared for a stunning view from our window, and I was not disappointed!

The View of Lake Louise from Our Window

There was just enough daylight remaining so that I could walk partway around Lake Louise. The lake was beautiful, and I was able to get a closer look at Victoria Glacier, which feeds the lake from its melting runoff. The views back towards the hotel were also gorgeous.

Lake Louise and Victoria Glacier

Fairmont Chateau Lake Louise and Its View of Lake Louise