Monday, June 6, 2022

Scottish Highlands Tour

The Scottish Highlands is said to be “the Scotland of your imagination.” Our ship docked in Invergordon, the gateway to this breathtaking region with its unique culture, dramatic landscapes, romantic castles, and fascinating history.

For today, Elaine had arranged a private tour with Invergordon Tours, and Willie was our guide. We knew we had arrived in Scotland when Willie showed up in his kilt.

Willie and Me

Our first stop was Robertson’s to learn about Highland cows, a hairy and hardy breed of cattle with long, curved horns. Although not as cute as the Shetland ponies, they are a symbol of Scottish culture. We watched the cows, as well as the alpacas and goats for a while, but it was the resident cat that garnered most of our attention, and not just from Tim and me!

Highland Cows, Llamas, Goats, and a Cat

We next drove to the village of Drumnadrochit, where we toured the ruins of Urquhart Castle, the largest medieval castle in the Scottish Highlands. In the 1300s, Urquhart featured prominently in the Scots’ struggle for independence, but its main claim to fame today appears to be its location on a rocky promontory that overlooks the shores of Loch Ness.

Urquhart Castle and Loch Ness

Exploring Urquhart Castle

Tim and Me

From Urquhart, we took an hour-long cruise on Loch Ness with Jacobite cruises. I wasn’t trying to spot Nessie, just the castles, monuments, and beautiful scenery along the way. We sailed through the Caledonian Canal and disembarked at the Dochgarroch Lock. I found out later that Elaine thought the cruise on Loch Ness, which she considered nothing special, was a waste of time. I, on the other hand, thought the cruise was lovely and was glad that she had included it on our itinerary.

A Last View at Urquhart Castle as We Sail Away

Sights Along Loch Ness

Cruising the Caledonian Canal to Dochgarroch Lock

We stopped in Inverness, the capital of the Highlands, for a stroll around High Street, the main shopping street in town. I especially admired the recent restoration of Inverness Town House, the city’s town hall built in 1882. I found the building’s most intriguing feature to be the statues of two wolves flanking the entrance. Apparently, wolves once roamed the Highlands, and the statues serve to remind visitors of the area’s beautiful, wild landscapes.

A Stroll Around Inverness

Inverness Town House

After getting a quick taste of Inverness, we drove through town on our way to Culloden Battlefield. Here in 1746, the final battle between the British Army and Jacobite forces took place on the moors of Culloden, finally putting an end to the Scots’ bid for freedom. Small, stone markers to the various clans that fought here are scattered throughout the battlefield and mark where the fallen soldiers were buried by local people. Other features include a memorial cairn constructed in 1881, and the Leanach Cottage, a traditional thatch cottage originally built in the early eighteenth century.

Culloden Battlefield

Stone Markers at Culloden Battlefield

Tim and the Memorial Cairn and Leanach Cottage

Battlefields are not typically my “thing,” but this one was surprisingly moving, and I know Tim agreed. We likely spent way too much time wandering around and looking at the markers, and only later found out that Elaine agreed with this assessment and would have preferred to view the exhibits in the Visitor Center.

From Culloden, we then traveled to Clava Cairns, one of Scotland’s most evocative and well-preserved prehistoric sites. Also known as the Prehistoric Burial Cairns of Bulnuaran of Clava, the complex is a Bronze Age burial and religious site that has been a sacred place for millennia. Walking around these ancient burial monuments was an amazing experience.

Clava Cairns

Unfortunately, and much to Elaine’s disappointment and ours, we ran out of time and were unable to visit Cawdor Castle, a medieval fortress still lived in today. Instead, on the way back to the ship, we took a short walk to Black Rock Gorge. This unexpectedly dramatic box canyon was impressive, but impossible to photograph. The woodland flowers were so much more photogenic!

Black Rock Gorge

The reviews on today’s tour were mixed, as I’ve noted. While I thoroughly enjoyed the sites we visited, it was disappointing that Willie did not monitor our time so that we would have enough time to visit Cawdor Castle. The other issue is that, unlike Lara, Willie offered no commentary along the way from place to place. Despite these shortcomings, Willie was very personable, and I had a great day.

The sail away from Invergordon was quite the study in contrasts. Huge oil rigs and offshore support vessels dominated Cromarty Firth, while picturesque villages and bucolic farms lined the opposite shore. I just tried to block out the rigs from my view.

Contrasting Views During Our Sail Away

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