Orkney Islands Tour

The Orkney Islands are a part of Scotland and lie off the northern coast of the Scottish Highlands. A group of seventy islands, Orkney is known for its breathtaking coastal scenery and its history that dates back millennia, predating Stonehenge and the Pyramids. 

Our ship docked in Kirkwall where we met Lorna Brown, our private guide for today. Her company, See Orkney, is a family-run business offering tours with a personal touch. I had been unable to book the optional tour I had wanted with Viking, so I was especially glad we would be able to cover everything I wanted to see, and more, with our own guide. 

Much of our tour focused on the Heart of Neolithic Orkney, a group of monuments on Orkney that is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. These monuments are among the most important Neolithic sites in Western Europe and provide remarkable evidence of the material and spiritual values, as well as the beliefs and social structures, of this period of prehistory. 

We first visited two ceremonial stone circles, the Stones of Stenness and the Ring of Brodgar. The Stones of Stenness, raised about 5,000 years ago, is one of the oldest stone circles in the British Isles, with four of the original 12 stones still in place. 

One of Orkney’s most popular attractions, the Ring of Brodgar is one of the largest and best-preserved stone circles in Great Britain, and 36 of its original stones remain. Located close to one another in a prominent location, and connected by a narrow strip of land, these spectacular sites dominate the landscape. 

We had time to wander around these enigmatic stones and contemplate a time that defies the imagination. How could such an early civilization raise such enormous stones? We also had time to appreciate the local “wildlife.” I’m always a sucker for baby lambs, but the baby swans, or cygnets, were especially adorable.

The Stones of Stenness

Tim, Sarah, and the Local Wildlife at the Stones of Stenness

One Half of the Ring of Brodgar

The Other Half of the Ring of Brodgar

Tim at the Ring of Brodgar

We continued our tour of the Heart of Neolithic Orkney with a visit to Skara Brae, a 5,000 year old village thought by many to be the best preserved Neolithic settlement in Western Europe. We followed the path to discover the surviving houses, which were built partially underground with access from a stone-lined passage. We learned that built-in furniture is not a new concept – these houses built 5,000 years ago had stone “dressers” and box beds.

One of the houses has been reconstructed in order to provide more of a glimpse into what life was like for the residents. We walked through the dark, narrow passageway and into the house where Lorna described the various unique features.

Skara Brae

Various Features of the Houses at Skara Brae

One of the Houses at Skara Brae, with Its Central Hearth and Built-In Dresser and Bed

The Reconstructed House that We Were Able to Step Inside

On our way to our next destination, we passed many of the island's farms, with their vibrant green pastures and contented cows. Views along the coast were equally lovely. After enjoying this pastoral scenery, we arrived back in Kirkwall for a tour of St Magnus Cathedral.

The Farms Were So Green

Beautiful Views Along the Shore

Known as the “Light in the North,” St Magnus was founded in 1137 and took over 300 years to complete. The cathedral is part of Orkney’s Viking heritage and was originally under Norwegian jurisdiction. Orkney came under Scottish rule in 1472.

Built of red and yellow sandstone, the cathedral is a fine example of Norman architecture and is noted for the polychrome effect of its alternating stonework. Although I’m not usually drawn to headstones, I was particularly taken with the decorated stones that line the walls throughout the interior.

St Magnus Cathedral

Distinctive Red and Yellow Stonework

Unique Headstones

After leaving St Magnus, we drove by Scapa Flow, one of the world’s largest natural harbors and the naval base for the British fleet during both world wars. Following Germany’s defeat in World War I, 74 of its ships were interned in Scarpa Flow. To prevent the fleet from falling into British hands, the order was given to scuttle the ships. 

Following the sinking of HMS Royal Oak during World War II, the Churchill barriers were built to strengthen the defense of this harbor. The shipwrecks here have made Scarpa Flow a top destination for divers.

Scarpa Flow and the Churchill Barriers

Our final stop also had connections to World War II. After the loss of the Royal Oak, Italian prisoners of war were involved in constructing the Churchill barriers. During their incarceration, the prisoners built the ornate Italian Chapel, which has become one of Orkney’s most popular sites. 

This tiny chapel, built from two Nissen huts, was so much more touching to me than the grand St Magnus Cathedral. I can see why the chapel has become one of the best-known and most moving symbols of reconciliation in the British Isles.

Italian Chapel

The Artwork Was Incredibly Detailed

On our drive back to the ship, we ended our tour on a light note. We were finally able to spot two of Orkney’s famous pigs. It seems Orkney has a special kind of pig with curly hair, and they are called Curly pigs. Shetland ponies, Highland cows, and now Curly pigs – it seems like each locale has its iconic animal. I love it!

Curly Pigs

Lorna was a fabulous guide and was so accommodating with all we wanted to see. She shared her considerable knowledge about Orkney in a manner that was so easy to comprehend. It was a great tour.

Orkney is another destination that Viking cruises often skip due to unfavorable weather conditions. Thank goodness, ours wasn’t one of those times.