I was up very early this morning in preparation for my optional excursion, “Temple Wonders.” Tim’s excursion was a few hours later, so he was able to sleep in.
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Just After Sunrise in Bali |
This was the description of my tour:
Discover Bali’s intriguing world of gods, temples and crafts. Drive with your guide to Tohpati Village, where the island’s fabric dyeing tradition lives on at a batik factory. Admire the artistry and technique that go into producing the famous cloth. After taking time to buy a keepsake, continue to the magnificent 17th-century Taman Ayun Temple in the town of Mengwi. This striking landmark served as the family temple of the Mengwi dynasty, whose kingdom survived until the late 1800s. The complex includes a wide moat, exquisite wooden shrines and beautifully carved gates. Next, visit the 16th-century Tanah Lot temple, also called the Sunset Temple. Its impressive black lava towers are perched on a narrow rocky promontory that juts into the ocean. Surrounded by pristine aqua waters and white surf, it is Bali’s most photographed site.
Our itinerary called for four stops today, and we began with a drive to Tohpati Village, the center of batik production in Bali. Here, we learned about the traditional art of batik, a unique textile art form that involves applying wax and dye to create intricate patterns on fabric. Many of the designs and motifs reflect Balinese culture, with themes such as nature, mythology, and religious symbols. We watched as four older men and women applied these intricate designs to the cloth. It was especially interesting to watch them create designs on guests’ clothing.
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Master Craftspeople at Work |
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A Unique Souvenir |
I rarely shop, but I was quite tempted by the beautiful items in the shop. I had no need for a sarong, but I came close to purchasing an expensive silk scarf.
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Beautiful Batik Items for Sale |
On the way to our next stop, our motorcoach happened to fall behind a religious street procession, although our guide could not identify its meaning or purpose.
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It Was Very Cool to Witness a Hindu Religious Procession |
Our destination was Pura Taman Ayun, or Taman Ayun Temple, the second holiest temple in Bali. This temple complex is one of the most important and beautiful temples in Bali, with its row of pagoda towers up to eleven stories tall. Although we were not permitted to enter the sacred temple area, which is enclosed by a wall and moat planted with lotus flowers, we were able to view this inner sanctum from the walkway alongside the moat.
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The Entrance and Outer Courtyard of Pura Taman Ayun |
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The Inner Sanctum of Pura Taman Ayun Surrounded by a Moat |
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The Iconic Pagodas of Pura Taman Ayun in the Inner Sanctum |
We then made our way to the Puri Taman Sari Resort, where we enjoyed a delicious lunch. The description of this property from its website summed up my experience there, even though we did not spend the night:
You are invited to stay in a traditional Balinese compound owned by a member of the royal family of Mengwi, one of Bali’s main kingdoms of old. The compound is located in a Balinese traditional village, nestled in shady coconut groves, surrounded by ricefields, with three rivers running through. This is your chance to see Bali as you would have found it in the 1920’s. In this traditional environment, you are offered comparable accommodation as that found in the hotel. You will enjoy privacy while having the exclusive and unique experience of seeing a private Balinese household in daily life. Experience how the Balinese pray, live, cook and eat.
Not only did I enjoy the Indonesian food, but I was able to get a taste of a private home, albeit a very wealthy one. After lunch, we had time to wander around the beautiful property, view the many shrines, and peek into the family temple.
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The Front Courtyard and Entrance to Puri Taman Sari Resort |
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The Open Air Restaurant Pavilion, Our Lunch, and Other Areas at Puri Taman Sari Resort |
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Another Entrance to Puri Taman Sari Resort that Framed a Perfect View of the Rice Fields (Thanks, Rose, for Alerting Me to this Photo Op) |
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Our Excellent Guide Putra |
Our final destination was Pura Tanah Lot, or Tanah Lot Temple, one of the most beautiful, and most photographed, temples in Bali, due to its location on a rock outcropping high above the ocean. We did not visit the temple, nor walk to it, but our guide led us to a cliff terrace where we could see the temple from above and watch the waves crashing on the rock.
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Pura Tanah Lot |
We were also able to see Pura Batu Bolong, or Batu Bolong Temple, another sea temple that sits on a rock arch overlooking the ocean.
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Pura Batu Bolong |
It was very crowded at Pura Tanah Lot, unlike Pura Taman Ayun, which was peaceful and blissfully free of all but a few other tourists. I also preferred the beautiful architecture at Pura Taman Ayun.
I really enjoyed being out in the countryside for part of the day and seeing the rice fields, which are mostly in the process of being planted at this time of year. Since I couldn’t visit the Ubud Rice Terrace, one of Bali’s most iconic and picturesque landscapes, this was somewhat of a substitute.
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Rice Fields |
Throughout the day, our guide explained the many aspects of the Balinese Hindu culture, including the festivals celebrated in Bali. Today, for example, was Tumpek Landep, where devotees make offerings to objects that are made of metal. Believers hang handmade offerings from cars, motor scooters, and other metal objects.
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Offerings on Tumpek Landep |
The Balinese also make daily offerings to express their devotion to the gods and to maintain a sense of balance and harmony in their lives. An offering is a small palm leaf basket that serves as a tray to contain colorful items such as fruits, flowers, leaves, and nuts. In Balinese culture, each of these elements has a symbolic meaning.
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Various Types of Offerings |
During our drives today and yesterday, I was completely struck by the sheer number of temples and shrines in Bali. Temples are literally everywhere. In fact, it is said that in Bali, there are more temples than there are houses. Although there are major temples like the ones we visited today, there are state temples, at least three temples in every village, and one temple in every family compound.
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A Few of the Village and Household Temples I Was Able to Photograph from the Bus |
Our time in Bali introduced me to a culture that was completely foreign to me, but one that was so interesting to explore. I may not understand the type of devotion that is so central to Balinese life, but I certainly respect it.
Although it was almost as hot today as yesterday, I was able to better manage the heat due to the way our itinerary was arranged. Being in the air conditioning of the motorcoach in between every venue allowed me to recover and prepare myself for the next stop.
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