Day 71 – Singapore, Singapore

As we sailed into Singapore this morning, I was struck by two things – the number of trees and modern buildings, both of which this city prides itself on. Established in 1819 by Sir Stamford Raffles for the East India Company, Singapore grew from a tiny colonial outpost into a sophisticated metropolis and thriving, global economic center.

Sailing into Singapore

The visionary behind this transformation was Lee Kuan Yew, who became Singapore’s first prime minister in 1959. As Dr. Babcock explained in his lecture yesterday, Singapore faced post-independence challenges. Rapid urbanization and industrialization in the 1960s posed environmental concerns, creating the need for a strategic response to create a sustainable and livable city.

The initial vision, the concept of a “Garden City” or “City Within a Garden,” emerged as a solution to enhance urban aesthetics and improve the quality of life. Lee Kuan Yew insisted on three things: everyone must speak English, the country must bring in the best for everything, and there must be no corruption.

Sound urban planning principles guided the city’s transformation. All types of greenery were emphasized, including the planting of trees, the development of public parks, and the creation of green spaces throughout the urban landscape. Environmental sustainability initiatives were emphasized, and innovative urban design was encouraged.

What we saw today was the legacy of Lee Kuan Yew’s vision and leadership.

Tim and I took an optional excursion today, “Singapore City Tour and National Orchid Garden.” This was the description:

Discover the cultural diversity of Singapore on a relaxing coach tour of its cultural and natural highlights. In this island state that has been called “Asia in microcosm,” you will see futuristic skyscrapers and old Chinese shop houses, mosques and churches, shopping centers and clean green parks. Stop at Mount Faber where you will admire the panoramic views over the harbor and the city. Drive through the financial district and enjoy the impressive vistas of Marina Bay from Merlion Park. In Chinatown, you will visit the Buddha Tooth Relic Temple and see its impressive exhibit of a hundred Buddha statues in the Hundred Dragons Hall. Cap your excursion with a stop at Singapore’s Botanic Garden, whose National Orchid Garden displays more than 1,000 species (and 2,000 hybrids) of these rare and delicate blooms.

After navigating Singapore’s arduous immigration process, Tim and I finally boarded our motorcoach. Our first stop was Mount Faber, where we had views of the city and harbor.

Atop Mount Faber with Views toward the City and Harbor

The National Orchid Garden was next, and I couldn’t stop taking photos of the many varieties of one of my favorite flowers. The grounds were extensive, but we spent most of our time in the Sembcorp Cool House, which showcases plants found in high elevation montane forests. The orchids were simply gorgeous.

Tim and the National Orchid Garden

Gorgeous Displays in the Cool House

A Few of the Orchids that Caught My Eye

From the garden, we drove to the Esplanade, located near the mouth of the Singapore River. Here, our guide offered to walk across the bridge with us to see the Merlion, a half-lion, half-fish statue that has become a symbol of Singapore. Only a few guests, however, took her up on her offer. I chose to view this icon from afar and focused my attention instead on the Marina Bay Sands resort and the other buildings around the waterfront.

Marina Bay Sands, Marina Skyline, and Merlion

Our final destination for the day was Chinatown, and this was my favorite stop apart from the National Orchid Garden. Here, we saw rows of buildings that our guide described as Chinese Baroque, an Asian style that incorporates elements of both Chinese and European architectural styles. We had time on our own to explore the neighborhood, and I took advantage of the time to visit two temples.

Chinatown

The Buddha Tooth Relic Temple features a four-story pagoda structure, and its architecture is a fusion of traditional Chinese and Buddhist styles. After removing my hat, I was able to enter the ornate temple and witness a service that was underway. This was my first time entering a Buddhist temple, and the experience was fascinating.

Buddha Tooth Relic Temple

Down the street was the Sri Mariamman Temple, Singapore’s oldest Hindu Temple, another fascinating site. The temple features a gopuram, or entrance tower, that rises above the main entrance and is embellished with six tiers of colorful sculptures of Hindu deities and other decorations. I had never seen anything like it. After removing my shoes, I entered the empty temple and gazed in amazement at the elaborate frescoes on the ceilings. My visit here was brief since I had to hurry back to the motorcoach before it left me behind.

Sri Mariamman Temple

Throughout the day, we passed one green space after another, attesting to the fact that Singapore is a “City Within a Garden.” Some of the green spaces were alongside roadways, some were parks, and some cascaded down from modern high-rise buildings. Trees were even planted under expressways, and vines covered many of the support columns.

All Types of Greenery

By the time I returned to the ship, lunch was over, and I knew I would be leaving for my next excursion before dinner, so I ordered room service, took a nap, and got ready to see Singapore at night on my optional excursion, “Singapore After Dark.” Here’s the description:

Take in the sights of Singapore from the water as you cruise past the glittering skyline of the city at night. Embark your motor coach and enjoy a scenic drive after dark through Suntec City and toward the Helix Bridge. You will then begin your waterside exploration with a 30-minute riverboat ride on the Singapore River. Glide past beautifully restored godowns (riverfront warehouses) contrasted with modern skyscrapers in the financial district, as well as colonial buildings. View the iconic half-fish, half-lion statue of Singapore’s national symbol at its namesake waterfront Merlion Park. Return to shore and head to the famous Raffles Hotel. One of the few remaining great 19th-century hotels in the world, it was declared a National Monument by the Singapore government. Enjoy a refreshing Singapore Sling and stroll about the grounds of this historic hotel before returning to your ship.

We took a slightly different route than this morning and passed the very cool Helix Bridge before stopping, as we did earlier today, at the Esplanade to visit the Merlion. This time, I decided to stay on the bus while others made their pilgrimage to this icon. Once everyone was back on board, we passed many of Singapore’s well-known buildings, both old and new, on the way to our next stop.

Helix Bridge

A Few Buildings that We Passed

Once we arrived at Clark Quay, we boarded a bumboat for a 30-minute ride on the Singapore River. Traditional bumboats are sail-powered boats that plied the Singapore River for more than a century. The one we sailed tonight was an electric version of the original design.

Bumboats at Clark Quay

The open deck was full when I boarded, but I was able to snag a window seat inside. It was a lovely ride as we sailed under the many bridges crossing the river, each one illuminated in reds or blues. We passed many of the iconic buildings that we had previously viewed from land, as well as a few that were new to me. Sadly, we were too early for the light show on Marina Bay Sands, which is said to be spectacular.

Singapore River Cruise Map

Bridges Crossing the Singapore River

Singapore's Iconic Buildings

Other Contemporary Buildings (and a Merlion)

A Sampling of Historic Buildings

After our boat ride, we drove to Raffles Hotel, the elegant grande dame of Singapore hotels and the one that still exudes old-world glamour. Our destination was the Long Bar, where we were treated to the hotel’s signature drink, a Singapore Sling. We made our way past the long line of people waiting to enter the bar and climbed the circular stairway to the upper level. What a fun time we had there!

Raffles Hotel

Singapore's Grande Dame Hotel

Singapore Slings in the Long Bar

On our way back to the ship, we were all quite disappointed that we did not drive by Gardens by the Bay to see its illuminated Supertree Grove. We just barely caught a glimpse of it in the distance. This was the only complex that I really wanted to see, so that was a real bummer.

My Only View of Gardens by the Bay and Its Supertrees (Sigh!)

Tonight marked the end of our third World Cruise segment, from Sydney to Singapore. Up next is Singapore to Cape Town.

Segment 3 - Sydney to Singapore

Day 70 – Sail the Java Sea

I know I may sound like a broken record, but I really do need sea days, especially after days with long excursions and extreme heat and humidity. Today was another one of those welcome days.

Tim and I were up early to listen to Dr. Babcock’s lecture on “Singapore: A City Within a Garden.” I always enjoy his lectures, but this one was particularly interesting for me as he delved into the difference a vision and leadership can make in building a city and country.

Singapore: A City Within a Garden

He compared Singapore with Jakarta and explained way in which Singapore was able to become such a highly developed and modern country known for its clean streets, efficient transportation system, and thriving economy. I’ll recount much of what we learned when I write about our time in Singapore.

When I was at the Hotel Indonesia yesterday, the friendly staff introduced me to tropical fruits that I had never previously encountered. I brought two of them back to the ship, and today, I asked one of the chefs to prepare them for me. I really enjoyed the mangosteen, but the salak, or snake fruit, was just okay. I do like trying new things, even if I end up not liking them.

Two Interesting Looking Fruits - Mangosteen (left) and Salak (right)

Chef Alastair and his culinary team once again tempted us at lunch with a Baklava Station. I never knew there were so many ways to prepare this delicious dessert.

Baklava Station

Tim wore a new shirt today that he had bought while in Jakarta. It was so different for him, and I loved the new look.

Tim Is Stylin'

Tonight, we attended the Viking Farewell Reception as we approach the end of another segment of the World Cruise. We also said farewell to Captain Markus and General Manager Ronald, who will be leaving us in Singapore. Watching the wonderful crew parade down the aisles to a standing ovation is always a special moment, and tonight’s was no exception.

General Manager Ronald and Cruise Director Matt; Captain Markus; and the Viking Sky Crew

Captain Markus Posed with Me Yesterday

Day 69 – Jakarta, Java, Indonesia

Viking Sky overnighted in Jakarta, the capital of Indonesia and the world’s second-largest city. Jakarta’s historic mix of cultures has influenced its architecture, language, and cuisine, and today, I set out to explore some of this city.

My full day excursion, “Sunda Kelapa and Jakarta,” called for us to visit an ancient fishing port, mammoth monuments, and a miniature Indonesia. Here’s the description:

Mingle among trading fishmongers and explore the intriguing history of Jakarta. Visit the old port of Sunda Kelapa, a bustling hub for the fresh fish auctioneering trade, and admire the colorful wooden Pinisi schooners that line the harbor. Once a major port, Sunda Kelapa still teems with the activity of porters loading and unloading cargo. After a delicious Indonesian fusion-style lunch, proceed to the National Monument, stopping to admire and take photos of its 400-foot-tall marble obelisk topped with a gold-coated flame. Visit the National Museum of Indonesia, the pride of Jakarta, and gain insight into Indonesia’s long and complex history. Stop by Jakarta’s Beautiful Indonesia in Miniature Park, a representation of all of Indonesia’s provinces in minute, magical detail, before returning to your ship.

As in Semarang, our motorcoach had a police escort to guide us through the horrendous Jakarta traffic. The police had advised our guide to reverse the itinerary, due to morning protests taking place near the National Museum.

Therefore, we began our excursion at the Beautiful Indonesia in Miniature Park, which is intended to showcase the sheer diversity of this archipelago of so many islands. This immense park is divided into separate areas for each of Indonesia’s provinces, and each area contains replicas of houses and other buildings that reflect that province’s regional architecture.

Beautiful Indonesia in Miniature Park

I had been a bit skeptical about visiting this park because I was afraid it might be a bit lame. I was under the misconception that miniature meant miniature buildings, not the full-size replicas that we saw. I was therefore surprised when we entered the park.

Our first stop was West Sumatra, where we were welcomed to the park by a dance troupe. We only had time to visit a few of the provinces, and I found each one to be quite different.

Welcome to the Beautiful Indonesia in Miniature Park

West Sumatra Province

For me, visiting each provincial area allowed me to learn about the many vernacular architectural styles and building types throughout Indonesia.  I could also look more closely at the intricate craftsmanship and details.  I won’t try to write about each of the areas we visited.  I’ll just include representative photos of each province.

North Sumatra Province

Aceh Province (And, Yes, There Were Lots of Cute Cats)

Papua Province

Sulawesi Province

As we left the park, I noticed quite a few museums in the same vicinity, indicating that Jakarta is evolving into a city that supports cultural activities and venues.

On our drive through the city, we passed a few demonstrations. Although I am still not clear about the issues involved, one sign protested the eviction of people due to a proposed development plan.

Demonstrations Seem to Be Common in Jakarta

As we reached the heart of the city, we passed many of Jakarta’s landmarks. I was only able to photograph a few, including the National Monument, which commemorates the struggle for Indonesian independence; the Merdeka Presidential Palace, which originally was a residence for the governor-general of the Dutch East during the colonial era; and the Thamrin Fountain, which symbolizes the rich cultural heritage of the city.

National Monument, Presidential Palace, and Thamrin Fountain

During the 1960s, Indonesian President Sukarno ordered the construction of several projects in preparation for the Asian Games IV. One of these was the Hotel Indonesia, which was intended to showcase a modern Indonesia to the world. One of the first five-star hotels in Southeast Asia, it remains a major landmark of Jakarta.

Hotel Indonesia and the Selamat Datang Monument,
Located at the Center of a Roundabout Known as Bundaran Hotel Indonesia

It was at the Hotel Indonesia that we enjoyed an exceptional buffet lunch. The offerings were extensive, and I enjoyed sampling many of the Indonesian foods. The chefs and other staff were so friendly and helpful, and I learned a lot while talking with them. Our guide was quite excited to join us here for lunch. He explained that people like him could only afford to dine here once or twice a year.

A Wonderful Buffet Lunch at Hotel Indonesia

Very Friendly and Informative Staff at Hotel Indonesia

Our next stop was the National Museum of Indonesia, and we began our tour with an introduction by our guide to many of the numerous statues that were discovered throughout Indonesia and that date from the first century.

Ancient Statues at the National Museum

The museum also had an interesting “Java Man” type of exhibit that questioned whether Indonesia is the oldest civilization on earth. It seemed clear that the answer was in the affirmative.

Indonesia, the Oldest Civilization on Earth?

I was very interested in a panel on repatriation. Much of Indonesia’s cultural heritage had been “stolen” by the Dutch, and The Netherlands has been slowly returning historical and cultural objects. This is an issue that both Tim and I are familiar with, so I was especially interested in Indonesia’s experience.

Repatriation Timeline

We only had time to view a small number of the exhibits in the museum before it was time to head to our next destination. On the way, we drove through Old Town, Jakarta’s original downtown area, and saw many of the city’s colonial buildings. Although a few have been restored, it was sad to hear that the city can maintain only ten percent of these structures.

A Few Colonial Buildings in Old Town Jakarta

We soon arrived at Sunda Kelapa, a 500-year-old harbor area where the Portuguese and Dutch conducted their trading activities. Jakarta had its origins in Sunda Kelapa, and this port played a significant role in the city's development.

Today, the old port only accommodates pinisi, a traditional two-masted wooden sailing ship providing inter-island freight service in the archipelago. These iconic vessels reflect the craftsmanship, ingenuity, and seafaring traditions of the Indonesian people. As I walked alongside these ships and watched the workers load and unload these vessels, I thought I had stepped back in time 100 years. It was a fascinating cultural experience.

Scenes at Sunda Kelapa

After a long, but enriching, day in Jakarta, I returned to Viking Sky, anticipating the evening’s special event. Tonight, we bid a fond farewell to Cruise Director Matt and Assistant Cruise Director Tara as they prepare to leave us in Singapore. In a “A Night to Remember,” they performed their favorite songs and invited the Viking Guest Choir on stage for a special appearance. It was a wonderful show, and we will miss these two delightful individuals.

A Night to Remember

(Please note: Due to the slow internet, I am reducing the size of the photographs so I can upload the blog posts in a more timely manner.)

Day 68 – Jakarta, Java, Indonesia

Viking Sky was not scheduled to arrive in Jakarta until noon today, so Tim and I did not have to rush this morning.

We Have Been Passing Oil Rigs for the Last Few Days

We did attend Sandy Leong’s lecture on “Stamford Raffles and Singapore.” I knew very little about the founder of Singapore, so this was a great introduction to a city we will be visiting in a few days.

Stamford Raffles and Singapore

Our arrival in Jakarta was delayed by an hour or so since our berth was not quite ready for us. As we finally approached our dock, a traditional Indonesian dance troupe and two singers were waiting on the pier to welcome us to their city. What a pleasant surprise! Even better, they were performing almost directly in front of our balcony. Tim and I had a ringside seat!

Welcome to Jakarta

Tim and I were both scheduled to take the included excursion, “Puppet Collection at the Museum Wayang,” but I decided to remain on the ship, and the day turned out to be a very special one for me.

When we were docked in Bali and Semarang, I was on excursions and missed seeing the reunions between the crew members and their families who live in the area. Because I had decided to skip this morning's excursion, I was able to see similar reunions on the ship today.

It was so touching to see the extra happy smiles of the crew, several of whom I had not yet met. It made no difference. I watched them showing their spouses and children where they worked and enjoyed meeting many of them. Seeing all the smiling faces after so many months apart was heartwarming. Virtually every crew member has the same goal, to make life better for their families. Reunions like today’s help provide renewed motivation in that regard.

So Many Happy Families

I was so proud of Viking in how it made special accommodations for these crew members. Families were invited on board to tour the ship and enjoy a special lunch. Crew members were also given time off to spend the night at home. I happened to run into Restaurant Manager Antonio early this evening, and he was even double-checking to make sure that everyone from Jakarta had been given permission to leave the ship for the night.

Although I’m sorry I missed my excursion, my experience on board today was priceless.