Returning to Colorado

My flight back to Colorado was not until 3:17 pm, but we had a three-and-a-half-hour drive ahead of us. Mike was up early, as usual, packing the car and making sure everything was ready to go. What a great guy!

We took one last look at Mount Katahdin and the lake and hit the road. Traffic was light, and we arrive at the Portland airport with plenty of time to spare. Noreen and Mike were spending the night at Steve’s house, so we said our goodbyes, and I checked in for my flight.

The flight was uneventful, but the plane was full, and even though I had an aisle seat, I was reminded how much I hate economy seats. I had been offered an upgrade for $120, but I was cheap this time and didn’t bite. Next time, I’ll jump at the chance.

Tim was at the Fort Collins airport to pick me up, and I regaled him with all that I had seen. It was a wonderful getaway, but it was also nice to be home.

Visiting all the National Park Service units in Maine was an accomplishment, but spending time with Noreen and Mike meant much more to me. I’m determined to make our next visit sooner rather than later.

Learning About Lumbermen

The Maine Woods has long been a working forest, and the Patten Lumbermen’s Museum tells the story of how this industry developed during the last 175 years. The museum also serves as a visitor contact station for Katahdin Woods and Waters National Monument. The museum was an hour’s drive north from our cabin, but that was our destination for today.

The reception center has the feel of a small-town museum with hundreds of historic photographs and a video that we were encouraged to watch. I surprised myself by enjoying the video and finding it to be very well-done.

The heart of the museum, however, is located out the back door. Here, nine buildings reflect both the life and work of a lumberman. Two camps, one from the 1820s and another more modern camp, show how men were housed and fed.

1820s Logging Camp

A More Modern Double Camp, with a "Dingle" Separating Cooking and Sleeping Quarters

Other buildings include a tool shed, portable saw mill, blacksmith shop, and equipment shed. A horse hovel shed and Lombard shed house heavy equipment and gas log haulers.

Multiple Buildings Housing the Equipment Required by Lumbermen

Tools Used by Lumbermen

One might be surprised to see the number of boats here, but rivers were key to the lumber industry. The first log drives came to Maine in the 1800s when loggers would harvest trees in the winter, stockpile the logs until spring, and then dump the logs in the river to float them downstream to the mills. Bateaux were used on the rivers to transport supplies upriver to the camps and to break up log jams, while boom boats and tug boats sorted and pushed logs on the log drives. Mike decided to pose on the Kennebec tug boat, which was used on Maine’s last log drive in 1976.

Boats Used by Lumbermen

On the way back to our cabin, Noreen and Mike decided to make a detour into Katahdin Woods and Waters National Monument. We only went as far as the bridge, but at least they can claim they’ve set foot in the park.

Katahdin Woods and Waters National Monument

The New England Outdoor Center offers three-hour moose and wildlife tours twice daily. Depending on the weather, transportation is either by pontoon boat on Millinocket Lake or van. We had signed up for the 7:00 am tour to increase our odds of seeing wildlife, and we hoped we’d be on the pontoon boat.

When I woke up and looked out the window, I discovered to my dismay that we were completely socked in. I couldn’t even see the lake. I was still game for a tour, but Noreen and Mike decided to skip it. When I walked to the main building and met Ken, our guide, I realized that I was the only one on today’s tour and that we would be going by van.

When I had initially proposed visiting Katahdin Woods and Waters National Monument, I wasn’t sure if Noreen was really up for driving her car on its rough and gravel roads. So, this morning I did some quick thinking and decided to ask Ken if we could go to the monument instead of his normal destination. Ken thought about it for a minute and agreed. He was so easy going and seemed to be up for anything. I figured this might be my only chance to get there, and if Noreen really wanted to visit the monument, I’d be happy to go back.

Katahdin Woods and Waters National Monument was established in 2016 and is a wild landscape within Maine's North Woods and home of the Wabanaki people. The 87,500-acre parcel of land was bought by Roxanne Quimby, the founder of Burt's Bees, who donated it to the United States, along with a $20 million endowment to preserve the park's natural resources. Currently, there are limited visitor services in the park. I love that the NPS website says, “Limited services and signage make visiting an adventure.”

It took almost an hour to get to the monument boundary, so I realized we wouldn’t have time to drive the park loop road. I was just happy to be able to set foot in the park and see a bit of it. One of the first things I had noticed as we drove was the number of anti-park signs. I was familiar with the local opposition, but Ken explained that most locals were starting to come around to the idea.

Signs of All Kinds

The roads within the park are used by logging trucks, which have the right of way. We pulled over and allowed one to pass on our way in.

Logging Truck Without the Logs

We crossed the East Branch of the Penobscot River, which flows freely through the monument, and Ken shared a wealth of information about the river and the flora and fauna of the Maine Woods. He was a great guide and gave me a better understanding of the region.

Ken decided to turn around at Lunksoos Camps, an old logging compound that is being restored by the park but is marked staff only. We ran into a park employee who was working there, and she told us about the area and the tent campground that had recently opened near the boat ramp.

Ken and Scenes from Katahdin Woods and Waters National Monument

Lunksoos 

On the way out, Ken told me more about Lunksoos, which is best-known by many Mainers as the terminus of 12-year-old Donn Fendler’s arduous nine-day journey from Katahdin while “lost on a mountain in Maine” in 1939. Interesting story! 

On our way back, Ken asked if I might be up for a wild ride. Of course, I was! We turned onto a four-wheel drive road that’s a much shorter route back to Millinocket. The road is not within the park boundaries, although there is a proposal to incorporate it. The road was rough, but it was fun to see more of the area.

Sights Along Stacyville Road

I was never able to see Mount Katahdin at the scenic viewpoints within the park. In fact, I could not see far into the distance at all due to the lingering fog. Still, I’m so glad that Ken agreed to take me to this wild and wonderful place.

When I returned to the cabin, Noreen and Mike were up and about, waiting to hear about my journey. They seemed to be just fine with my decision. After relaxing for a while, we decided to drive into Millinocket to have lunch at the Appalachian Trail Café. We stopped next door at the visitor contact station for the park, where I was able to get my passport stamps.

We then decided to go on the drive that Ken would have taken me on this morning. The Golden Road is a scenic North Woods drive, and we stopped at the Abol Bridge Campground where we walked along the footbridge to capture a famous view of Mount Katahdin. Thankfully, the fog had burned off by then.

An Iconic View of Mount Katahdin

We spent the rest of the day relaxing along the lake. I think I even took a nap!

Twin Pines at the New England Outdoor Center

Whenever I would picture an ideal place to stay in the Maine Woods, it would be a lakeside “camp,” with rustic, but elegant, cabins set among the pines. Randomly spaced Adirondack chairs would line the lakeshore so one could admire the view of distant mountains. A good restaurant within walking distance would be a bonus.

Twin Pines at the New England Outdoor Center on Millinocket Lake checked off virtually every box for me, and I couldn’t believe my luck in finding this place. Noreen, Mike, and I arrived mid-afternoon and were immediately impressed by the main building which housed the restaurant. We checked into our two-bedroom cabin, with a full kitchen and comfortable living room. I wouldn’t call the cabin elegant, but it was everything we needed. We then headed for the lake.

Main Building and Restaurant

Aerial View of the Property (Photo Courtesy of NEOC)

It was a gorgeous day, and Mount Katahdin was in full view in front of us. We settled into Adirondack chairs and simply enjoyed the peace, quiet, and wonderful views.

Noreen and I both commented that we could see ourselves returning here for a week or more, and I’m glad we had decided to stay three nights.

View of Mount Katahdin from the Lakeshore

Covered Picnic Tables Would Be a Scenic Spot for a Meal

Canoes and Kayaks Are Provided for Guests

A Beautiful Setting on Millinocket Lake

Noreen and Mike Relaxing in the Adirondack Chairs

Dinner was an unexpected gourmet experience, and we returned to our cabin to turn in early to rest up for our morning moose and wildlife tour.

Saint Croix Island International Historic Site

Saint Croix Island International Historic Site, located on an island in the Saint Croix River between Canada and the United States, is one of the lesser-known National Park Service units. The park commemorates the earliest attempt at French colonization of North America.

 According to the park’s mission statement:

The National Park Service preserves Saint Croix Island IHS as a monument to the beginning of the United States and Canada. It was here that Pierre Dugua Sieur de Mons with his company of 78 men established a French settlement in 1604-05. In cooperation with Parks Canada, the National Park Service educates the public about that heroic effort, its context, and its consequences.

This attempt to colonize the territory the French called l'Acadie, was an ill-fated one. The men spent the winter iced in and cut off from fresh water and game, and 35 settlers died. After the return of their ships from France, Dugua moved the colony, founding the settlement of Port Royal, in today's Nova Scotia.

There is no public access to Saint Croix Island, but the mainland offers a short interpretive trail with bronze statues and a model that tell the story of the 1604 settlement, with a view of the island at the end of the walk.

Bronze Statues Help to Tell the Story

Along the Interpretive Trail

Imagining the Settlement

A View of Saint Croix Island

St. Andrews-by-the-Sea

St. Andrews is a picturesque town on Passamaquoddy Bay and is considered to be Canada’s first seaside resort town. Established in1783 by Loyalists fleeing the American Revolution from Castine, Maine, St. Andrews contains an impressive collection of beautifully preserved eighteenth and nineteenth century buildings. 

The Algonquin Resort is one of Canada’s grand, historic hotels. Rebuilt in 1915 after a fire destroyed the original 1889 structure, the Algonquin is distinguished by its Tudor Revival style architecture and red roof. The hotel has become the symbol of St. Andrews, and I’m so glad that we stayed here. 

The Algonquin Resort - Our Rooms Had Water Views

I had suggested Tim Hortons, home of Canada’s favorite coffee, for breakfast, forgetting that it was a fast-food restaurant. The coffee was great though. Blue skies were peeking out from the clouds, so Noreen, Mike, and I decided to walk toward the waterfront. The tide was out, and we learned that the tides here may rise and fall up to 28 feet two times a day.

Along the St. Andrews Waterfront at Different Times of Day

We happened upon the St. Andrews Blockhouse National Historic Site, built during the War of 1812, and then walked along the downtown streets. Mike and I continued our tour after Noreen returned to the hotel, and we discovered even more historic buildings.

St. Andrews Blockhouse

Sights Around St. Andrews

I wanted to find the Pansy Patch, a quaint inn where my mother and I stayed during our Canadian Maritime road trip in 1992. My mother struck up a friendship with the owner, and her standard poodle Cadbury, that continued for years. I had forgotten that the inn is right across the street from the Algonquin, and it was just as cute as ever.

Pansy Patch, Partially Hidden by the Trees

Before too long, the hills and heat got to me, and I had to drag myself back to my room. I was relieved when Noreen suggested we take a break today. It was just what I needed. We returned to the waterfront for an early dinner, and it was so pleasant to sit outside and enjoy the lovely view. Returning to St. Andrews was a great idea.

Mike and Noreen

Crossing into Canada

After another fabulous breakfast at the inn, we loaded the car for the drive to Canada. The addition of Canada to a national park road trip is quite simple. Roosevelt Campobello International Park is an affiliated area of both the National Park Service and Parks Canada. Located on Campobello Island, off the coast of Maine and just across the international border into New Brunswick, Canada, the park preserves the summer retreat of Franklin D. Roosevelt's family.

In order to cross the border into Canada, we were required to provide mandatory travel information, including COVID-19 proof of vaccination, on the ArriveCAN app. We must have done everything correctly because we breezed through Canadian Customs.  

A Foggy Welcome to Canada

It was very foggy when we arrived in Canada, but the fog had partly cleared by the time we reached Roosevelt Campobello International Park. We explored the exhibits at the visitor center and then took a guided tour of FDRs summer cottage. FDRs parents built this home in 1897, and FDR spent summers here as a child. After he and Eleanor married, it became their summer retreat. The house contains 34 rooms and has been restored to its condition in 1920.

Roosevelt Campobello International Park

FDRs Summer Cottage

Touring the Cottage

The Hubbard Cottage and Prince Cottage, both built in the late nineteenth century, are also in the park, and we had a delightful lunch at the Prince Café. I admired the flower beds throughout the property and gave my compliments to the gardener.

Hubbard Cottage

Prince Cottage and Café

The Flowers Added a Colorful Note to a Dreary Day

After leaving the park, we had to make our way to St. Andrews, our destination for the evening. The fastest and most scenic route involved two ferries. We crossed Campobello Island and waited on the shore for the ferry to Deer Island. This private, toll ferry was much smaller than I had anticipated, but we crossed Passamaquoddy Bay with no problem. The only problem was the fog. It may have been a scenic ride, but we couldn’t see a thing.

M.V. "Island Hopper" Ferry

The second ferry from Deer Island to Letete, New Brunswick, was a bit larger, and free, but the visibility, or lack thereof, was the same. I’m sure it would have been a beautiful ride.

"Deer Island Princess II" Ferry

We arrived in St. Andrews and checked into the Algonquin Resort, a beautiful, historic property. I decided to wait until tomorrow to take photographs. Hopefully, the weather will improve.

Acadia National Park

It is impossible to see Acadia National Park in one day. Luckily, Noreen and I have been there on multiple occasions, but we wanted Mike to get see as much as possible. The Park Loop Road passes many of the park’s natural attractions, so we started there after a fabulous breakfast at the inn.

We stopped at the main visitor center and then at Thunder Hole. Here, as wind-driven tides sweep into a narrow channel, air becomes trapped and escapes with a thunderous roar. That’s always fun to see and hear. As we continued along the Loop Road, we had beautiful views of Frenchman Bay.

I Always Try to Get a Photograph of Every National Park Sign

The Rocky Shoreline Along Frenchman Bay

Beautiful Views Along the Park Loop Road 

Since we hadn’t planned to go hiking, my best idea for getting away from the crowds was to take a carriage ride. I had taken one years ago and remembered it as a way to experience one of the park’s picturesque features. Because John D. Rockefeller, Jr., who became one of the park’s benefactors, wanted to travel on car-less roads into the heart of Mount Desert Island, he worked with engineers to design 45 miles of roads that follow the contours of the land and take advantage of scenic views. Today, these roads are viewed as the best and most extensive network of broken stone carriage roads in the country.

Noreen and Mike were up for a carriage ride, and we were able to book the two-hour “Mr. Rockefeller’s Bridge Tour.” As we circled Day Mountain and meandered in out of the woods, we were able to see three remarkable bridges, another unique feature of the carriage road network. Rockefeller financed 16 stone-faced bridges to span streams, waterfalls, and roads, and each bridge is unique in its design. We also passed the Jordan Pond Gate House, one of two gate lodges that serve as impressive entrances to the network.

Our Carriage

The Lovely and Peaceful Carriage Roads

Each Bridge Is Unique

Bridge Details

Jordan Pond Gate House

I wanted to stop at Jordan Pond, one of the prettiest places in the park, but finding a parking space was impossible. Instead, Noreen dropped Michael and me off. He was able to appreciate the view from afar, and I was able to get my passport stamp. I should mention that I also collect National Park passport stamps, and Acadia has nine locations. Noreen and Mike were determined to get me to every one of them!

Jordan Pond and the Bubbles

I had planned to end our day at the summit of Cadillac Mountain, the highest peak in the park with to-die-for views. Reservations were required to drive the road, so I had reserved a time on Recreation.gov. When we reached the entrance station, the ranger couldn’t find my reservation. Somehow, I had made it for the wrong day! Ugh! I was so bummed that we wouldn’t be driving to the summit today.

Instead, we drove back to the inn, relaxed for a while, and headed to the harbor for a fabulous seafood dinner.

Noreen and Mike

The Waterfront in Bar Harbor

A Sunset Cruise Would Have Been Nice!

Augusta and Mount Desert Island

We thanked Steve and hit the road this morning for Augusta. Augusta? Why Augusta? In addition to visiting as many National Park Service units as possible, I’m also trying to visit state capitol buildings. Noreen and Mike seem to be fine with wherever I want to go, so we stopped at the Maine State House for a quick visit.

The original State House was designed by renowned architect Charles Bulfinch in 1832, and it is based on his plans for the Massachusetts State House. The building acquired its present form when it was extensively redesigned and expanded in 1910. We toured the capitol on our own before getting back on the road.

Maine State House

We arrived in DownEast Maine in the afternoon and made a stop at the Island Information Center for brochures and maps before crossing the bridge to Mount Desert Island, where Acadia National Park is located. For those who may not know, DownEast refers to the state’s easternmost regions. 

We drove to Bar Harbor and checked into the Elmhurst Inn, located in a quiet residential neighborhood within walking distance of downtown. The inn is a lovely Victorian era building, and our suite is perfect for the three of us. We enjoyed afternoon lemonade and cookies and took a break before venturing downtown for dinner.

I completely forgot to take photographs of the inn, so I’m borrowing ones from the inn’s website.

Elmhurst Inn - Breakfast Room, Inn, Carriage House, and Our Suite
(Photos Courtesy of the Elmhurst Inn)