Day 99 – Maputo, Mozambique

As we docked this morning in Maputo, Mozambique, I was surprised when I stepped onto our balcony and saw the Maputo–Katembe Bridge, one of the longest suspension bridges on the African continent. This bridge was mostly financed by a loan from the Export-Import Bank of China, reflecting China's increasing presence in Africa with its support of major infrastructure projects. This was not the first Chinese-financed infrastructure development that we have seen.

A View of the Maputo–Katembe Bridge as We Docked in Maputo

Maputo, known as the “City of Acacias” for its many trees, is the capital of Mozambique. The city was laid out in typical Portuguese fashion in the mid-nineteenth century, with a central plaza surrounded by administrative buildings and a church, and streets in a grid pattern. This city's architectural heritage, a blend of traditional Portuguese and African architectural styles, is still evident in Maputo today, and Tim and I set out to see it.

We had selected the included excursion, “Panoramic Maputo,” described as follows:

Discover the vibrant capital of Mozambique on the shores of the Indian Ocean. Maputo features colonial Portuguese architecture and wide avenues lined with jacaranda and acacia trees. Founded as a port town by the Portuguese, the influence of travelers and traders from Africa, Asia and Europe has made the city a diverse and lively metropolis. You will enjoy a scenic drive past some of Maputo’s most important landmarks, including the domed bronze CFM Railway Station, which dates back to 1910. The remarkable structure was constructed in South Africa, and its assembly was an innovation for that time. After a stop to visit the vendors at the local market and browse for the perfect memento, you will return to your ship.

We set out from the port and drove along the waterfront and through the downtown area, stopping first at an artisan market, known for its array of locally made crafts, including wooden sculptures, traditional masks, jewelry, textiles, and paintings. The vendors were rather aggressive in trying to persuade us to purchase their items, but I left empty handed.

Artisan Market

We then passed the Maputo Central Hospital and many colonial-era buildings on our way to Independence Square, an important landmark in the city. The square was constructed by the Portuguese and renamed in 1975 after Mozambique gained its independence.

Maputo Central Hospital and Colonial-Era Buildings

Before walking around the square, we visited the Cathedral of Our Lady of the Immaculate Conception. It is said that the architect was inspired by the Église Notre-Dame du Raincy in Paris, with its simple style and building materials. Completed in 1944, the church features clean lines, large windows, and minimalist aesthetics that contrast with the intricate designs often associated with older cathedrals.

Cathedral of Our Lady of the Immaculate Conception

As we walked across the street to the square, we were able to view the Maputo City Hall, a neoclassical style building that stands at the head of Independence Square. The statue of Samora Machel, the first president of Mozambique, dominates the square.

Independence Square

We then walked one block south to the Tunduru Botanical Gardens, a public park and garden that was designed in 1885 by British gardener Thomas Honney. This is a popular place where wedding parties often come for photos after the ceremony. We saw several groups in all their finery, and they were much nicer to look at than the fruit bats in the trees.

Tunduru Botanical Gardens

On the way back to the bus, we passed a most unusual house – the Iron House. This building is made entirely of prefabricated iron and steel and was designed by Gustave Eiffel in 1892. Eiffel intended the house to be the residence of the governor-general of Mozambique, but the design failed to consider Maputo's tropical climate. The iron structure turned out to be unbearably hot and was never used as a dwelling.

The Iron House

We made a quick stop at the Maputo Central Market, a covered market built in 1901 where produce is still sold, and then the Fortress of Maputo, which was built by the Portuguese in the mid-nineteenth century near the site of an earlier fort. I must admit that Tim and I elected to remain on the bus at both stops since it was so hot.

A Terrible Photo of Maputo Central Market

I was especially looking forward to our last stop, however, the Maputo Central Railway Station, one of the most iconic buildings in Mozambique. Built between 1908 and 1916, this building is widely recognized as one of the world’s most beautiful train stations. This Beaux-Arts style structure features an impressive dome, an ornate facade, and an extended metal platform.

Maputo Central Railway

We had time to walk through the station, learn about its history, and visit the Museu dos CFM Maputo, a museum at the station that explores the pivotal role of Mozambique's ports and railways in shaping the nation’s history. Tim and I were both impressed with the quality of the exhibits.

Maputo Central Railway

Museu dos CFM Maputo

On the way back to the ship, we passed a statue known as the Snake Lady. In 1935, a monument was erected to commemorate the Portuguese and Mozambican soldiers who died during World War I. On top of the monument is a statue of a woman holding a snake in her right hand. According to legend, the snake lived among the acacia trees here and used to bite those who wanted to rest below their shadows. This woman managed to kill the snake, which is why she is known as Senhora da Cobra.

The Snake Lady

Despite the heat, I really enjoyed this excursion, and our guide did a great job. We saw all but one of the buildings that I had hoped to see (that one wasn’t on the tour anyway), and I came away with a better understanding of Maputo. Although Mozambique is one of the poorest countries, this poverty was not as evident here as it was in Mombasa. Most likely, that was only because our tour was limited to the downtown and wealthier sections of the city.

After returning to the ship, I had a craving for a good old-fashioned hamburger, so Tim and I split one since they are so large. We took care of a few chores and then watched the port talk for Richards Bay, South Africa, where we’ll be tomorrow. As we sailed from Maputo, I was able to once again see the Maputo–Katembe Bridge, this time illuminated against the early evening sky.

A View of the Maputo–Katembe Bridge as We Sailed from Maputo

We ended the day by watching the evening show on Viking TV in our room. Assistant Cruise Director Patricia entertained us with her solo show, “Rock the Boat.” What a fabulous voice she has.

"Rock the Boat"

Day 98 – Sail the Mozambique Channel

Viking Sky had a very special event planned for us today, but first I had a lecture to attend. Steve Burrows spoke on “The European Architecture of Mozambique,” but once again, he only devoted the last ten minutes of his talk to architecture. His idea to give us an overview of the demographics, geography, history, and culture of Mozambique was a good one, however, since there will be no other talks on the country we will be visiting tomorrow.

The Architecture of Mozambique

He started with two fun facts. Mozambique is the only country in the world with five vowels in its name, and its flag is the only one containing an AK-47. A not-so-fun fact is that Mozambique is one of the poorest countries in the world and is at the forefront of climate change, often suffering from extreme weather.

Mozambique became a territory of the Portuguese Empire in 1505, and although the country achieved its independence in 1975, it still suffers the effects of a 16-year civil war that ended in 1992. As in most African countries, colonialism had a devastating impact on the country with economic disparity and social inequalities that continue to affect the nation today. This slide clearly spells out the harm that resulted from colonialism.

Colonial Harms

Steve let us know that Mozambique has the best collection of colonial architecture of any place we will visit in Africa, apart from Cape Town. He illustrated the history of architecture here, starting with a church constructed in 1498, and I hope we will be able to see some of the buildings he showed us.

Next up was a lecture by Dr. Babcock on the “History of South Africa,” the country we will visit after Mozambique. Its history is too long and complicated for me to try and write about here, but the timelines below will provide a summary of key events.

History of South Africa

Timeline of Early History

Timeline of 20th Century History

The special event that I hinted at earlier was A Global Brunch Extravaganza. This was the description in the Viking Daily:

Step into a world of flavors at our spectacular Pool Deck Brunch, where our Executive Chef Alistair and his dedicated team have crafted an exquisite feast celebrating cuisines from around the globe! Savor an array of international delights, from Indonesian street food, fresh sushi to handmade pasta favorites, and more. And for those with a sweet tooth, prepare to be amazed by our indulgent dessert buffet, featuring an irresistible selection of pastries and a flowing chocolate fountain – the perfect way to end this extraordinary alfresco dining experience.

Yes, it was an extravaganza and a feast for the eyes, as well as the stomach. The sushi chefs outdid themselves this time with their displays. The watermelons with African animals carved into the rinds were works of art. The dessert buffet was also impressive.

International Delights and the Talented Chefs Who Created Them

An Amazing Dessert Buffet

Watermelon Art

More Watermelon Art

Tim and I joined Jacquee and Larry at The Chef’s Table for the Sweet and Salty menu. This was a new one for us, and we really enjoyed it. This was the description of the menu:

A five-course menu to maximize your dining pleasure that highlights these two “best friends” in every dish through witty pairings.

Sweet and Salty Menu, with Descriptions of the Five Courses Pictured Below

Amuse Bouche, First Course, Granita, Main Course, and Dessert

Day 97 – Sail the Mozambique Channel

I had only one goal for today, and that was to finish the blog post for my day in Amboseli National Park. Trying to select from over 700 photos and then try and identify the animals and birds we saw seemed to take forever, but I finally finished and uploaded the post this afternoon. Now, I want to catch up on the remaining days before we dock in Mozambique the day after tomorrow.

To accomplish this goal, I skipped the lectures but still made time for the Cobb Salad Station at lunch. I enjoy Cobb salads, and the salmon right off the grill was delicious.

Cobb Salad Station

Little Asia was the theme for dinner, and Tim and I had a fun time in the World Cafe talking about food likes and dislikes with our friends Jacquee and Larry. Jacquee and I joke that we are somehow friends, even though our tastes in food are 180° apart!

Day 96 – Sail the Mozambique Channel

Today was the first of three sea days before we arrive in Mozambique and then South Africa. Lectures occupied my morning, although I did watch them from our room, not wanting to expose anyone in the Star Theater to my cough.

First up was Howard Roitman’s talk on “Gandhi, Mandela and Tutu.” Of course, I was familiar with these three giants that shaped the independence of South Africa and India. However, I had forgotten many of the specifics of their efforts and accomplishments, so the lecture was a perfect refresher course. Howard asked which of the three men never received the Nobel Peace Prize, and the answer was Gandhi. Prizes are never awarded posthumously.

Gandhi, Mandela, and Tutu: Peace Leaders of South Africa

I then watched Dr. Babcock’s lecture on “The Epic Journey and Enduring Legacy of Vasco da Gama.” Although the exploits of this Portuguese explorer had been touched on during many of the recent talks, this lecture gave us a complete overview of de Gama’s voyages of discovery and the dynamic era of European exploration in the fifteenth and sixteenth centuries.

Charting the Seas of Discovery

After a delicious Sicilian Lunch, another special event, I took a nap and relaxed for much of the rest of the day.

Day 95 – Nosy Be, Madagascar

As we sailed to the island of Nosy Be in Madagascar this morning, the skies were mostly clear, and the temperature was already very hot. Nosy Be was a tender port, and we anchored near the town of Andoany. I was surprised when I stepped out on our balcony and saw a local man in an outrigger canoe trying to sell items to passengers on the ship. That just wasn't going to work.

Sailing into Nosy Be

Tim and I were scheduled to take the included excursion, “Village of Dzamandzar,” which was described as follows:

Explore the most popular isle in Madagascar’s archipelago during a panoramic drive. Board a motor coach with your guide and set off for a scenic drive around the country’s largest island. Nicknamed the “Perfume Island” because of the scent of ylang-ylang trees that grow in its tropical forests and plantations, Nosy Be also boasts an array of other distinct flora and fauna. Stop and gain a deeper understanding of local history and culture as you get a glimpse into the life of the Sakalava people, one of Madagascar’s smallest ethnic groups that are descended from settlers who arrived around the 8th century AD. Enjoy a stop in Dzamandzar and engage with some of the locals as you walk among unique balloon-shaped houses and remnants of an old railway, and browse market stalls offering spices, tropical fruits and handmade crafts. Afterward, return to your ship.

I had been having second thoughts about going on the excursion, however. I’ve been fighting another cold and cough (not the flu, thank goodness) for the last few days, and the thought of being outside in the heat was not appealing. In the end, I thought it best for me to stay on board, so that’s what I did.

Tim did go on the excursion, and I asked him to take photos of the balloon-shaped houses, since I was curious about their architecture. He did take photos and shared them with me, but his guide provided no information about the houses, which was disappointing. A Google search also turned up nothing.

A Traditional Dance and Welcome to Nosy Be

Balloon-Shaped Houses of Dzamandzar 

The weather deteriorated in the late afternoon, and it began to rain. We even saw a faint rainbow. The seas got progressively rough, and the last tender was rocking and rolling on its way back to the ship. I watched as the crew tried to attach the cables to raise the tender up to its permanent location, and they were fighting the waves and wind the entire time. I’m sure they were quite relieved when they finally succeeded.

Late Afternoon Seas at Nosy Be

Day 94 – Sail the Indian Ocean

Today was our last sea day before we arrive in Madagascar. However, before attending Dr. Babcock’s lecture on “Madagascar: Mysteries and Marvels” to learn about this port, Tim and I had to check out the Donut Station. Tim had been released from isolation and was feeling much better. I think the donut helped. Although I don’t eat donuts often, I gave in to temptation this morning.

The Donut Station - Lots of Temptation

Dr. Babcock explained the history of Madagascar, the fourth largest island in the world, its blending of cultures, and its colonization by the French. At least 90 percent of the animals there are endemic. Unfortunately, there is also extreme poverty and an uncertain future.

Madagascar: Island of Mysteries and Marvels

After spending much of the day chatting, writing, and processing photos, I was ready for the evening event, a Sunday Roast on the Pool Deck. On my way there, I happened to look outside and noticed how interesting the sky was. There even appeared to be a rainbow in the distance.

Is That a Rainbow in the Distance?

The culinary team put on another great event, and we were treated to prime rib and turkey with all the trimmings, as well as a wide array of delicious desserts. The weather was surprisingly pleasant, and I even enjoyed sitting outside. Guitarist Alan entertained us, but Tim and I left before the dancing began.

Sunday Roast

After returning to our room, we decided to catch up on lectures we had missed and watched Howard Roitman’s talk on “Mount Kilimanjaro and Africa’s Great Lakes.” I consider myself fortunate to have seen one of East Africa’s natural wonders.

Mount Kilimanjaro and Africa's Great Lakes

Day 93 – Sail the Indian Ocean

After taking it easy yesterday, I was much more energetic today, and I began with Richard Lovelock’s talk on “Secrets of Smartphone Photography.” Although I thought that Simon and Lisa Thomas had covered everything to know about the subject during their series of workshops earlier in the cruise, I figured a refresher would be useful. It was, and I even picked up a new shortcut.

Secrets of Smartphone Photography

Executive Chef Alastair was at it again today, and the Mexican Lunch seemed to be the most popular special event so far. The line extended all the way past the dessert buffet, but the wait was worth it. The Chef had done a cooking demonstration earlier this morning on preparing chimichangas, and they were on the menu. Delicious!

The Officers Were Recruited Once Again to Serve the Mexican Lunch

In the afternoon, I stayed in the room with Tim to do a bit of research about yesterday’s safari. Trying to identify the birds I had photographed was quite a challenge, and I’m sure I made a few mistakes.

Later on, we watched Dr. Babcock’s lecture on “Africa Rising: The Historical Development of a Continent.” He went back as far as the ancient kingdoms, then covered the impacts of colonialism, the struggle for independence, and where we are today.

Africa Rising: The Historical Development of a Continent

I was especially interested in his explanation of colonialism and how the European powers divided up the African continent into countries with artificial borders. He presented the following image and said that “this is the slide that changed the world.”

"The Slide That Changed the World"

Hundreds or thousands of different people groups were jammed into each arbitrarily defined country, and “that’s what really messed the whole thing up,” in his words. Boundaries were based on geography or something arbitrary. The result was a Western concept of a country or territory, not an African one. What this produced is countries comprised of peoples that hated one another, not a good recipe for a stable country.