National Park Travelers Club Meetup

Given my interest in visiting national parks and collecting passport stamps, I became a member of the National Park Travelers Club (NPTC) many years ago. The NPTC is dedicated to the mission of providing networking and recognition opportunities for visitors to America's National Park System. The club also maintains a database of passport stamps and is my go-to for finding locations of stamps.

NPTC

From time to time, the club hosts “meetups” at various national parks. Today was NPTC Across America Day, where simultaneous meetups in various geographical regions were held. The one for the Rocky Mountain region took place at Cache la Poudre River National Heritage Area, just 20 minutes from our home.

I had been corresponding with the meetup host about options for the event, but this morning, I received an unexpected text message from him. He was in Estes Park with his family, and his mother had become very ill. When he asked if I would fill in for him as emergency meetup host, I agreed. We made hurried arrangements, and, somehow, it all worked out.

I met his wife halfway between Estes Park and Loveland, where she handed over the all-important passport stamp and other items. If someone had been watching us get out of our cars and quickly make the switch, they might have thought it was a drug deal! The attendees were patiently waiting for me to arrive at the Fort Collins Welcome Center, our meeting point, and I was only 15 minutes late.

Since there was no sign for the Cache la Poudre River National Heritage Area at the Welcome Center, we posed in front of the painted horse. Like many cities, Fort Collins has a program in which local artists paint a giant statue. In the case of Fort Collins, it’s a rearing horse.

The Meetup Attendees

From the Welcome Center, we proceeded to Big Splash at the Water Works, a Fort Collins tradition at the 1883 Water Works, co-sponsored by Poudre Heritage. Here, we were able to “step back in time and uncover the fascinating origins of our city's water delivery system, dating back to June 1883.” This facility was built to provide the growing town of Fort Collins with an adequate supply of water for fighting the building fires that plagued the early town. Today, it is being transformed into a Water Interpretive Center.

The Big Splash Event

1883 Water Works, Fort Collins, Colorado

Neither Tim nor I had ever visited this site, so we enjoyed the tour and learned a little more about our neighboring city’s history.

The Evolution of a Trip

Last September, Tim and I booked a Canadian Rail Adventure, two scenic rail journeys on the Rocky Mountaineer and VIA Rail’s Canadian. We are scheduled to arrive in Vancouver on September 21, and we will travel across Canada from Vancouver to Toronto. I included more information about the itinerary here.

Our Canadian Rail Adventure

Several months ago, I started to think about including a pre-trip adventure. In keeping with the train theme of the trip, I decided that this might be the perfect time to take Amtrak’s California Zephyr from Denver to San Francisco. It’s a scenic train ride that’s been on my bucket list for years, so I went ahead and booked it. Tim decided to pass on this one, so I’ll meet him in Vancouver.

Amtrak's California Zephyr

I opted to spend two nights in Emeryville, California. Emeryville is the actual termination of the California Zephyr and is located just across the bay from San Francisco. Here, I’ll rent a car and visit four National Park units, thereby completing my visits to almost all the California parks.

I won’t be flying directly from Oakland/San Francisco to Vancouver, however. No, I will fly to Portland, Oregon, to visit my friend Kevin, and I’ll stay there for two nights.

Finally, on the morning of September 21, I’ll fly to Vancouver, where I will meet Tim. We will spend two nights in Vancouver before boarding the Rocky Mountaineer on September 23. At the end of the trip, we will spend three nights in Toronto before flying home to Colorado.

It was a great itinerary, and I thought everything was set. The tour, rental car, all hotels, and flights were booked.

After returning from my road trip, I happened to browse the Post Viking Promos thread on Cruise Critic and noticed a Canada & East Coast Explorer cruise from Toronto to Fort Lauderdale. Hmm... I wondered what the sailing dates were. Lo and behold, the cruise departed Toronto on October 8. We were scheduled to fly home on October 4. Hmm... An extra four days in Toronto would be very nice since we’ve never been there. Hmm... Interesting!

Canada & East Coast Explorer

What was the itinerary and which ship? The cruise listed five interesting ports in Canada, as well as two in the U.S. There were also lots of sea days, which we enjoy. Hmm... The kicker was that the cruise was on the Viking Polaris, an expedition ship identical to the one we’ll be sailing to Antarctica. Hmm... Even more interesting!

The dates were good, but what about the cost? This promotion offered cabins at almost 40% off the original price and included free airfare. Viking cruises rarely have such a steep discount. Hmm... Maybe...

I hemmed and hawed and kept changing my mind. Tim listened patiently and made the decision that we should just do it, so we booked the cruise on May 23. What a perfect birthday present! Are we nuts? Probably, but I don’t care.

A special bonus is that disembarking in Fort Lauderdale will give me an opportunity to spend additional days with my friends in Miami. We didn’t have much time when we were there just before Christmas, so this will be a great opportunity.

I’ve put together a map of the entire journey. What to call it? It’s not Planes, Trains and Automobiles. What about Trains, Planes and a Cruise Ship? I think I’ll just leave it as two separate trips for the blog since that’s the way it started. Thus, Canadian Rail Adventure (with a pre-trip adventure) and Canada & East Coast Explorer will be the categories I’ll continue with.

Trains, Planes and a Cruise Ship - What an Itinerary!

A Pre-World Cruise Get-Together

Ever since Tim and I booked our Viking World Voyage way back in January 2023, I have been reading posts in Cruise Critic, a message board for people who love to cruise. A great resource on Cruise Critic is the Roll Call section. These are threads dedicated to the specific sailing of a specific ship, allowing people who are sailing on that cruise to join the discussion, share tips and experiences, and meet other cruisers. 

In April, I noticed that one couple also lived in Loveland, so I reached out and suggested we get together. Another couple from Denver also responded, and we all met for lunch today. Peggy and Jim, who live in Loveland, have traveled extensively throughout the world, and have even completed two world cruises on Viking. This is Debbi and John’s first cruise with Viking. What a way to start! 

It was so nice to get together, meet everyone, compare notes, and ask questions. Both couples will board the ship in Los Angeles, not Fort Lauderdale, and we will be waiting to welcome them aboard.

Jim, Peggy, Me, Tim, John, and Debbi

Midwest National Parks Trip – Reflections

My biggest takeaway from my Midwest National Parks Trip was rediscovering how much I love road trips. Although I have loved the cruises Tim and I have taken and all the adventures we’ve had in Europe, there are still so many things left to see in the United States.

Tim and I travelled full-time in our RV for five years, plus another nine months before that. One might think we saw everything we wanted to see during that time, but that’s far from the truth. On this trip, where I traveled over 3,500 miles, all but two stops were completely new to me. The trip opened my eyes to a part of the country that I had never spent too much time in. Although I may not want to live in the Midwest, I was impressed with what I saw.

I love to travel with Tim, and he is a great companion on the road. However, I also love to travel by myself. There is something about solo travel that is so liberating. I can do what I want, eat what I want, and not worry about anyone else. I also find that when I travel by myself, I tend to strike up conversations with strangers on a regular basis. When I’m with Tim or a friend, I am less likely to do so. Some of my conversations on this trip were quite memorable.

This trip was much more of a whirlwind than I prefer, however. Nevertheless, I’m glad I included all the park units in the vicinity, even though it meant very long days. When I arrived at my hotel each night, all I wanted to do was collapse. I ate whatever was handy and only went out for a nice dinner one time. I had hoped to seek out local places to eat, but that goal fell by the wayside early on. Once I checked into my hotel, I didn’t want to go out again.

I was incredibly lucky with the weather. Although it often rained during the second half of the trip, the rain occurred mostly while I was driving. Somehow, I avoided all severe weather except for a minor hailstorm. The Midwest had experienced multiple tornados just prior to my setting out and just after I returned home. Because I shortened my trip by one day, I even missed a severe hailstorm that caused extensive damage in a town I would have been driving through.

Although I became more adept at using my phone as a camera, the verdict is still out. I may go back to my regular camera, although I’ll keep the phone as a backup.

My goal now is at least one road trip per year. Not only do I enjoy this type of travel, but road trips can be quite inexpensive, even when staying in hotels instead of traveling by RV. All in all, I spent 13 days and 12 nights on the road at a cost of just over $100 per day. (I was able to use points for seven of the hotel nights.) That’s quite a bit cheaper than a Viking cruise!

My Final Route - Not Too Different than My Original Plan

Home Again

I had less than a three-hour drive today, so I didn’t rush to get going. US 34 was mostly a very good drive, despite a slowdown caused by a lineup of trucks for part of the way.

I arrived in Fort Morgan, Colorado, where Time grew up and stopped to say a quick “hello” to Chris, my sister-in-law. She was at work, so our visit was brief, but it was so nice to see her again.

When I reached Greeley, Colorado, I stopped to see Chris’s twin sister Cathy, another sister-in-law. Cathy was also working, so we only had a short time to chat. I enjoyed seeing these lovely women again.

My First Glimpse of My Beloved Snow-Capped Rocky Mountains

Before long, I pulled into our garage and ended my trip. It was especially nice to see Tim again. I had really missed him.

Final Tally - 3,528.4 Miles

Now, it’s time to unpack, do laundry, and get caught up on everything that’s been going on while I’ve been away.

From Another Fort to Tacos

The breakfast room was full this morning with all the folks who were in town for graduation ceremonies. In talking with several people, I was surprised to learn how many relatives, some of whom seemed to be quite distant, chose to spend a weekend to attend a ceremony.

I drove through town, got gas, and found my way to US 34. Google Maps kept insisting that I get on the interstate, but I just ignored her and enjoyed a much more pleasant drive. It rained for much of the morning, sometimes heavy at times, but nothing like yesterday.

My only destination today was Fort Kearney State Historical Park, an important symbol of westward expansion and development. This was the first fort built to protect travelers on the Oregon and California Trails. It also became a Pony Express station and was the home of the Pawnee Scouts.

Fort Kearny State Historical Park

What I thought would be a relatively quick stop lasted way longer than I would have guessed. I was not impressed with the exhibits, which I found to be very old-fashioned with language that is not respectful today, but my visit quickly morphed into something special.

Soon after I asked the staff for the National Park Service trail stamps, the superintendent, Gene Hunt, came out with an old box of all kinds of stamps. I doubt those had seen the light of day for years. He explained the significance of each one, most of which were anniversary stamps, and said that I was taking him down memory lane.

Gene Hunt and His Box of Stamps

Mr. Hunt then walked me back through the exhibits and explained many of them to me. He showed me photos and talked about how he had established relationships with descendants of the Pawnee Scouts, who had served as military allies at Fort Kearny, and how proud he was to have celebrated their forgotten story at one of the park’s anniversary events. Mr. Hunt has been with the park since 1972 and is an institution. Meeting him was the highlight of my visit to Fort Kearny.

I continued westward on US 34, and there was even less traffic. I think I only passed one car in more than two hours.

As I was leaving the town of Holdrege, Nebraska, the weather instantly changed, and it started pouring rain. Then it started to hail. I had been cognizant of the weather on this trip due to recent severe weather and tornados in the region, so I immediately pulled to the side of the road and decided to make a U-turn and go back into town.

I've Been in Much Worse Hail, but I Didn't Know What Might Lie Ahead

I turned into a parking lot for a bit, and when the hail stopped, I moved across the street to McDonald’s, where I decided to wait out the storm. The heavy rain lasted for only 30 minutes or so, and I was soon back on the highway. The weather heading west had turned nice and sunny.

I gained an hour this afternoon when I crossed back into Mountain Time Zone, and soon, I was back in Colorado. As a result of the time change, I arrived at my hotel in Wray, Colorado, earlier than usual and checked into the Cobblestone Inn, just about the only hotel in this part of the country.

Back to Colorful Colorado

The Cobblestone Inn may be a step down from most of the places I’ve stayed in on this trip, but the hospitality and service were a notch above. As I pulled into a parking space at the hotel, I noticed a man grilling something, as well as a sign announcing someone’s graduation party. As I walked by with my luggage, I teasingly asked if I could buy a plate. The man who was cooking and catering the party said he would be happy to give me one. I protested, but he insisted and said everything was covered anyway. He then proceeded to fix me two tacos, one steak and one chicken. I thanked him profusely and made my way to the front desk.

Amy at the front desk was so friendly, and I told her my story. She said that he had fixed a plate for her when she arrived a short time before. After I got my key, she told me my room was on the second floor, and the stairs were at the end of the hallway. No elevator!

I wondered how I’d get upstairs with my luggage and plate of food, and Amy insisted on helping me with my things. She carried my suitcase upstairs and held my plate while I opened the door. Wow! That’s service!

I settled in and ate two of the most delicious tacos I’ve ever had. The meat was so tender and well-seasoned. I had to go back downstairs and thank the kind chef. What a delightful way to end my trip.

These Tacos Were the Best!

From One Capitol to Another

Unlike yesterday, today was a multi-stop day. The distance I traveled wasn’t that far, but I was busy from early morning until late afternoon.

One of the main reasons for my stop in Des Moines, Iowa, was to visit the state capitol. I had seen its prominent, golden dome from the interstate on my way into town yesterday, and I was looking forward to my visit. Getting there was a bit of a challenge this morning, however, since many of the roads surrounding the building were closed for a Superhero Heart Run.

The Iowa State Capitol is a magnificent building. Completed in 1886, it is a wonderful example of Renaissance Revival style architecture and one of the most beautiful capitol buildings I’ve visited. I had decided to wander through the building using a self-guided brochure, not wanting to take the time for a one-hour tour.

Iowa State Capitol

I was immediately struck by the capitol’s centerpiece, its rotunda and inner dome. At the base of the dome are eight lunette paintings that represent the progress of civilization. The Grand Staircase that leads to the second floor was even more impressive. It is dominated by a massive mural entitled Westward, which symbolizes the arrival of pioneers in Iowa. On the third floor above the mural are six mosaics in arched panels depicting Defense, Charity, Executive, Legislative, Judiciary, and Education. The mosaics, made in Venice from small pieces of colored glass, were even more amazing when I was able to see them up close.

The Inner Dome Was Beautiful

Grand Spaces

Impressive Artwork

Because I didn’t take a tour, I was unable to visit the chambers of the Senate and House of Representatives or any other rooms. A guide I was speaking with as I was leaving wanted to take me to the Law Library, said to be one of the most beautiful libraries in the country. Although regulations would not permit this kind gesture, I appreciated it all the same. After looking at photos of the library later that evening, I regretted not having taken the tour.

My next stop was the Des Moines Art Center, which I had planned to visit for its architectural history and one specific painting. The museum was built in three stages, each by one of the most prominent architects of the twentieth century. The original building was designed by Eliel Saarinen in 1948, and additions by I. M. Pei in 1968 and Richard Meier in 1985 completed the complex. When I stood in the courtyard, I was able to take in half a century of American architecture.

Des Moines Art Center - From top to bottom, Saarinen, Pei, and Meier Wings

A Half Century of Modern Architecture in the Courtyard

The painting I wished to see was Edward Hopper’s Automat. I love his art, and this was a seminal work in his career. The painting is often out on loan, so I was happy it was on exhibit. I must admit that I was surprised to learn that such an important painting was owned by a museum in Iowa.

Edward Hopper's Automat

Although many of the galleries were closed, I still found several works that really caught my eye, even though I’m not always a fan of modern art. The first was entitled Museum Storage: Please Do Not Remove the Labels. The wry humor shown here made the piece quite memorable, given Tim’s career and the types of volunteer work we have done at national parks.

Museum Storage: Please Do Not Remove the Labels

Two pieces were especially powerful and thought provoking, and both resonated with me. These pieces explore the uses and possibilities of the written word in visual art, a genre that was new to me. I learned that I Want a President has become an icon of art activism.

I Want a President and My Calling (Card)

I drove across Iowa and soon crossed the Missouri River into Nebraska on the Mormon Pioneer Memorial Bridge. Nearby in North Omaha, I visited the Mormon Trail Center, which is located on the site of the Winter Quarters, the temporary settlement used by Mormons during the winter of 1846-1847.

Mormon Pioneer Bridge

The Winter Quarters is a major site on the Mormon Pioneer National Historic Trail, and the center’s exhibits, reconstructed settings, and artifacts tell the story of the Mormon pioneers’ westward migration to the Salt Lake Valley. The interpretation was well done.

Mormon Trail Center

Next up was the headquarters for the Lewis and Clark National Historic Trail on Omaha’s riverfront. Since I had visited several trail sites on this trip, I wanted to stop here. I checked out the exhibits and found another one in the bathroom – “Think while you’re stalling. . .” Because the park ranger was not the talkative sort, and since I tend to spend a considerable amount of time talking with rangers, I found myself ahead of schedule when I left.

Lewis and Clark National Historic Trail Headquarters

I realized then that I could probably make it to Lincoln, Nebraska, to tour that state capitol before it closed. Since I had originally planned to visit there tomorrow, and since the capitol did not open until 1:00 pm on Sunday, this was a very good thing.

Of the three capitols on this trip, I was most looking forward to visiting Nebraska’s State Capitol. This building, designed by Bertram Grosvenor Goodhue and completed in 1932, departed from tradition by incorporating a high-rise office tower in the design, thus becoming the nation’s first modern statehouse. The capitol was the first designed in the Art Deco style and is also unique in its use of artwork throughout. When Goodhue developed his vision, artwork was a key feature.

Tower on the Plains, Nebraska's State Capitol

I learned my lesson from my visit to the Iowa State Capitol and planned to take a tour. Unfortunately, I was ten minutes too late. The public spaces were open, however, and as I wandered around, I found myself gawking at what I saw.

A vestibule on the north side of the building leads into the foyer, and then into the central rotunda, one space more magnificent than the next. The art and iconography throughout tell the story of Nebraska and her people and the state’s relationship to the ideals of Western civilization.

A Grand Rotunda

Jaw-Dropping Spaces

Colorful, tile vaulted ceilings, exquisite mosaic and inlaid marble floors, and Venetian glass wall murals were spectacular, and one feature seemed to be more stunning than the next. Large murals, including those in the foyer and Memorial Hall on the fourteenth floor, were added between the 1950s and 1990s and continue the artistic tradition.

Large Murals from the 1950s and 1960s in the Foyer

Murals from the 1990s in the Memorial Hall

Because it was the end of the day, I was able to take the time to look more closely at the architectural details on the exterior of the building. Every element related to the theme, and there was a lot to see.

Amazing Sculptural Details on the Exterior

Both the Ohio and Nebraska State Capitols were magnificent buildings, very different in style, but equally grand. I’m not sure I could pick a favorite.

I finally checked into the Hyatt Place in Lincoln’s Haymarket Entertainment District and relaxed in another very lovely room. I cancelled my hotel reservation for tomorrow night and booked another hotel much closer to Loveland. This way, I’ll get home by early afternoon on Monday.