From a Capitol to the Ohio River

I found out this morning when I read my email that we will be sailing around Africa on our upcoming World Voyage, as expected, instead of through the Red Sea and Suez Canal. I spent some time looking at the changes, and I am thrilled with this new itinerary.

In addition to visiting national parks, I have planned to tour three state capitol buildings on this trip. It wasn’t until 2019 that I discovered The Capitol Collection, a passport book for the 50 state capitols. Naturally, I started collecting those stamps as well. I had always been interested in these grand structures, but the passport program has made visiting them more fun.

Therefore, I drove into downtown Indianapolis this morning to tour the Indiana Statehouse. It had been a while since I had driven in a large city, but traffic was surprisingly easy to deal with. I even found a parking spot and figured out where and how to feed the new-style meters.

Indiana Statehouse

The architecture of the Indiana Statehouse, like many state capitols, was influenced by the design of the United States Capitol and is Classical Revival in style. For me, the most striking feature of the interior was the stained-glass dome in the rotunda. Because I was running behind schedule, I spent very little time in the building and did not do it justice.

The Interior of the Indiana Statehouse

My next stop in downtown Indianapolis was the Eiteljorg Museum, a museum that focuses on Native American and Western art. I love Western art, and this museum had been on my radar for quite some time. The exhibits were outstanding, both the temporary exhibits and permanent galleries.

I started at the upper level and viewed two temporary exhibits. “Why We Serve: Native Americans in the United States Armed Forces” honored the generations of Native people who have served in the U.S. military throughout the nation’s history. “Developing Stories: Native Photographers in the Field” featured images by three contemporary Native photographers. Both were interesting.

Scenes from Two Temporary Exhibits

I was drawn, however, to the Native American Galleries. “Expressions of Life: Native Art in North America” focused on three themes – Relation, Continuation, and Innovation. This gallery was especially interesting to me since it included both historic and contemporary art, with which I was less familiar.

Expressions of Life: Native Art in North America

Moving to the lower level, I entered the Art of the American West Galley and “Attitudes: The West in American Art.” Some of my favorite artists were represented here, and I was pleased to see a few of their pieces in person. I was also able to discover new artists whose focus was various aspects of the West.

Attitudes: The West in American Art

The interpretive panels in both galleries were especially well done. The information presented explained the various themes and suggested a new way of looking at the pieces on exhibit, thereby helping me appreciate both how art has evolved and how it represents many different cultural values, attitudes, and points of view.

It had started to rain before I arrived at the museum, and the rain only increased after I got back on the road. As much as I dislike driving interstates, it’s even worse in the rain and fog. Luckily, the rain lessened a bit after a while, and the visibility improved as I made my way south.

I always try to stop halfway through the drive, especially if the stop involves a passport stamp. Today’s stop was Falls of the Ohio River State Park. I either misheard my GPS or it gave me odd directions, but it took me across the Ohio River into downtown Louisville, Kentucky, and then back again over the same bridge to reach the state park. Strange, but the bridge was very cool, so I was glad for the detour. I even decided to do a bit of research on the bridge.

The 2nd Avenue Bridge and Its Art seco Style Pylons

Originally called the Louisville Municipal Bridge, now the 2nd Street Bridge, this structure was completed in 1929. I was intrigued by the beautiful Art Deco style pylons at the entrance to both sides. The pylons are Art Deco in style, with engaged, fluted columns topped by sculptured eagles. The Kentucky pylons bear Kentucky state symbols and the incised words "Kentucky.” The Indiana pylons have a similar design. An Art Deco lantern tops each pylon. Just beautiful!

After recrossing the bridge, I finally found the interpretive center for the Falls of the Ohio State Park. This site is a point of interest on the Lewis and Clark National Historic Trail since William Clark set out from here with Meriwether Lewis to explore the territory of the Louisiana Purchase. The helpful woman at the information desk explained that the center’s exhibits focus on fossils and geology, with none on Lewis and Clark. So, this time, I skipped the exhibits and did a “stamp and run.”

Falls of the Ohio State Park on the Lewis and Clark National Historic Trail

When I left, I crossed the Ohio River again into Kentucky, this time on the interstate. Unfortunately, I failed to get in the correct lane and ended up on the wrong highway. Naturally, Google maps rerouted me, and I only lost a small amount of time. I drove through Kentucky bourbon country, so the revised itinerary turned out to be just fine.

I finally arrived in Somerset, Kentucky, and checked into a Holiday Inn Express on the edge of town.

From a Canal to Lincoln

I’m so glad the owner of Just Art Pottery could not meet me until 11:45 am, because my unexpected visit to the Illinois and Michigan Canal National Heritage Area, America’s first National Heritage Area, was great fun. The opening of this 96-mile canal in 1848 linked the Illinois River to Lake Michigan, thereby creating an all-water, inland route from the East Coast to the Gulf of Mexico. Unlike the Erie Canal, this canal is less well-known, and few have recognized the significance of this canal, which opened trade in the region and in America’s heartland and resulted in Illinois becoming the most populous inland American state.

I arrived early in the morning in La Salle, Illinois, and spent some time at Lock 14, the only restored gates on the canal. An authentic replica of a canal boat, which offers mule-pulled rides on the waterway, was docked there.

Lock 14 on the I & M Canal

The Canal Boat that Offers Mule-Pulled Rides on the Canal

The I & M Canal NHA has developed a silhouette tour that lets visitors explore the canal through its people. Steel silhouettes that depict passengers and canal workers tell their stories and the lasting impact they have had. I loved the silhouettes and thought this was a very clever way of including these historic figures in the overall narrative.

The Silhouettes Even Include Abraham Lincoln and His Family, Who Traveled on the Canal

I next stopped by the Visitor Center in downtown LaSalle, which was established as the canal’s western terminus. I mentioned to the staff how fortuitous it was that I was even there, and they seemed intrigued by my story. The director of the heritage area was walking out the door, but she came back in and gave me an excellent overview of the canal and its history.

The Maps at the Visitor Center Helped Me Understand the Canal

I had extra time, so I sat and had coffee, since the center includes a café and gift shop. I ordered a breakfast sandwich to go, which I ate later, and it was delicious. Talking with the staff added to my enjoyment of this visit.

On my way to Just Art Pottery in East Peoria, Illinois, I drove through a countryside dotted with field after field. Some were bright green, others had crops just peeking through the soil, while others were newly plowed and waiting to be planted.

Trying to Photograph Farmers' Fields through My Dirty Windshield Was Challenging

It was somewhat bittersweet when I sold my Roseville art pottery collection. I loved that collection, but there is no room to display it in our condo. In fact, I had not seen the pottery since I packed it ten years ago. The owners had two very cute cats, who had fun playing in the paper that the pottery had been wrapped in. Although I no longer have my collection, I now have a check that will likely pay for this trip.

I Got My Kitty Fix While Selling My Pottery

The rest of the drive through Illinois was on interstate highways, which are not my favorite. For me, it’s much more stressful than driving on narrow backroads. Interstates are necessary, of course, but I do try to avoid them when it’s feasible.

My next stop was Danville, Illinois, a Looking for Lincoln gateway community in the Abraham Lincoln National Heritage Area. One more NHA to add to my collection! This NHA looks inside Abraham Lincoln’s life and times in central Illinois, where he raised his family and began his career in law and politics. In this “Land of Lincoln,” each community in the heritage area has its own Lincoln story to tell.

The folks at the Danville Area Convention and Visitors’ Bureau were very helpful. They immediately produced the passport stamp and gave me directions to the Looking for Lincoln Story Trail.

The city has created several wayside exhibits that describe Lincoln’s time in Danville, where he practiced law from 1841 to 1859. Lincoln was a close friend of Dr. William Fithian, and while visiting Danville during his 1858 senatorial campaign, Lincoln stayed in Fithian’s house and gave a speech from its second-floor balcony. The Fithian House has been preserved as a house museum.

Looking for Lincoln in Danville, Illinois

Fithian House

I returned to the interstate and finally made it to Indianapolis, where I planned to spend the night. Once again, I lost an hour when crossing into Indiana. Since I had no idea that Indiana was in the Eastern Time Zone, I was really confused as to what time it was when I checked into the Holiday Inn Express.

What Time Is It in Indiana?

From the Mississippi to Herbert Hoover

If I thought the GPS in the car directed me on lots of backroads yesterday, that route was nothing compared to how Google maps on my phone directed me today. I don’t think I’ve ever been on so many backroads, but it was a beautiful drive. I traveled along the bluffs of the Mississippi River for a while and stopped at several scenic overlooks of the river.

Overlooking the Mississippi River

Then, it was into the heart of Iowa agricultural country. Everything was so green, and the fields were being plowed. I saw beautiful barns and experienced the essence of the Silos and Smokestacks National Heritage Area.

When I arrived at the Visitor Center for the Herbert Hoover National Historic Site, there wasn’t a park ranger in sight. I talked to the young volunteer for a bit, however, and then watched the film and viewed the exhibits on Hoover’s young life in West Branch, Iowa. I later met another volunteer and learned that both were students at the nearby University of Iowa. What a great source of volunteers for the park!

Exhibits on Hoover's Life in West Branch, Iowa

I enjoyed walking through the town where Hoover was born and spent his early years. The two-room cottage in which he was born was restored in 1935 by President Hoover, who viewed the cottage as “physical proof of the unbounded opportunity of American life.”

The Birthplace Cottage

Other buildings associated with Hoover’s life include his father’s blacksmith shop, the one-room schoolhouse in which Hoover studied, and the Friends Meetinghouse in which he worshipped. Other private houses, a few of which were constructed later, complete the park’s commemorative landscape.

Blacksmith Shop, Schoolhouse, and Friends Meetinghouse

West Branch, Iowa - Then and Now

I walked to the adjacent Herbert Hoover Presidential Library, where I watched another excellent film on his life and accomplishments and then toured the museum. Of course, every presidential library emphasizes the best of a president, and this one was no exception.

Like many people, I never had a very favorable opinion of Hoover due to his actions, or lack thereof, during the Great Depression. However, after viewing the film and exhibits, I came away with a new appreciation for him. I never knew that Hoover was known throughout the world as a great humanitarian. During his long career in public service, he led famine relief efforts in 57 nations.

Herbert Hoover Presidential Library

Exhibits Chronicle the Various Periods in Hoover's Life

I ended my visit with a stop at the gravesite of President and Mrs. Hoover.

The Gravesite

It was a beautiful day to walk around, but the temperature reached the upper 80s. Thank goodness, the mature trees provided welcome shade. I can hardly believe that I left Colorado wearing a down jacket, which I continued to wear at Niobrara National Scenic River. Since then, temperatures have climbed steadily to today’s high.

Later this afternoon, I crossed the Mississippi River on the new Twin Bridges into East Moline, Illinois, where I checked into the Hyatt House, the extended stay version of Hyatt Place and another very nice hotel. Unfortunately, several staff members called in sick on Mother’s Day, so the restaurant and bar were not open. I settled on a Lean Cuisine from the Market instead. Sad!

Crossing the Mississippi River from Iowa into Illinois

One of my destinations tomorrow is Just Art Pottery, where I will be selling my collection of Roseville art pottery. I had contacted the owner last month, and he had made an offer for the collection, which I had accepted. I had already been planning this trip and realized that his business was somewhat on the way, making it possible for me to drop off the boxes rather than incurring shipping costs. I emailed him after I checked into the hotel today to ask if I could meet him at 10:00 am. He replied requesting 11:45 am.

Since I now had time to kill, I started looking for another place to visit. I found a site that I was unfamiliar with, the I & M Canal National Heritage Area. Why hang around the hotel for an extra two hours when I could explore some place new?

From Architecture to Effigy Mounds

I joined an architectural walking tour of Mason City this morning and discovered a fascinating collection of Prairie School style houses. Who knew that Mason City, Iowa, has such amazing architecture? I was not surprised, however, to learn that the restoration of these houses and the Historic Park Inn Hotel has become a real draw for tourists. People, like me, who are fans of Frank Lloyd Wright have made it a point to visit Mason City, stay in the hotel, and tour the neighborhoods. It has really spurred the revitalization of this community.

Frank Lloyd Wright designed two properties in Mason City, although he had plans for many more. After Wright left for Europe in 1910, other Prairie School architects carried these plans forward. Such well-known architects as Marion Mahony Griffin, Walter Burley Griffin, Barry Byrne, William Drummond, and local architect Einar Broaten created Rock Crest-Rock Glen, a beautiful neighborhood located along both sides of Willow Creek. This was the first planned Prairie School development in the United States.

We walked by most of these houses on a gorgeous Spring day. Our guide was excellent and even provided many historic photos of the houses we saw. One of the tour participants was an architect, and his comments added an additional perspective. 

Some of the Prairie School Style Houses in the Rock Crest-Rock Glen Neighborhood

After the tour, I stopped at the Robert E. McCoy Architectural Interpretive Center, which provides a comprehensive look at Frank Lloyd Wright and the houses in Mason City.

The Architectural Models of Houses by Frank Lloyd Wright Were So Cool

The Historic Park Inn Hotel Was Prominently Featured

From there, I toured the Stockman House, the other building in town designed by Frank Lloyd Wright in 1908. The docent was very enthusiastic and extremely knowledgeable about the architecture of the house.

The Stockman House - Frank Lloyd Wright Did Not Approve of the Owner's Furnishings

I wanted to get on the road to make it to Effigy Mounds National Monument in time to hike the trails. Therefore, I decided to use the car’s GPS instead of the phone’s, and this time it directed me on all the backroads, when I had originally thought I’d take a state road. You just can’t win sometimes. I love to drive the backroads, however, so I did enjoy the drive. Everything is so green, and I love driving through farm country.

On the way to Effigy Mounds, I drove through the Silos and Smokestacks National Heritage Area. National Heritage Areas are places where historic, cultural, and natural resources combine to form cohesive, nationally important landscapes. NHAs are administered by the National Park Service but are not National Park units. Silos and Smokestacks NHA “illustrates the cultural history of American agriculture and the shift to large-scale industrialized development of American farms to feed the nation and the world.”

Silos & Smokestacks National Heritage Area - I Saw Silos, But No Smokestacks

I had wanted to visit at least one passport stamp location in the Silos and Smokestacks NHA, and the Vesterheim Museum in Decorah, Iowa, was on the way to Effigy Mounds. The focus of this museum is the Norwegian-American experience, and the exhibits were very interesting. I even got to talk briefly with three women who were visiting and whose heritage was Norwegian. I love Norway, so this was a great stop. I learned that when Viking sails the Mississippi River and stops in La Crosse, Wisconsin, this museum is a major destination for tours.

Vesterheim Museum - Home Life in 19th Century Norway

Vesterheim Museum - The Immigrant Journey from Norway to America

Vesterheim Museum - A New Home in America

I finally reached Effigy Mounds National Monument by mid-afternoon. This site preserves more than 200 prehistoric mounds that are considered sacred by Native Americans, and 31 of the mounds are in the form of animal effigies. Located along one of the most picturesque sections of the Upper Mississippi River Valley, the park also offers expansive views of the river below.

Exhibits at Effigy Mounds National Monument Interpret the Story of the Mounds

I had a wonderful talk with the ranger on duty, and she pointed out the trails that I could take. I headed out with plenty of time to explore the park. I knew the Fire Point Trail involved a very steep climb, but it was harder than I expected. I am so out of shape! Thank goodness I brought my walking stick with me, since I’m not sure I would have made it without it.

After reaching the top of the bluff, I passed by the Little Bear Mound Group and the Great Bear Mound Group, as well as multiple conical, linear, and compound mounds. I learned that these mounds were created between 850 and 1,400 years ago.

The Great Bear Mound Group

The park is fascinating, but I found it difficult to distinguish the effigy mounds while standing on the ground, and I struggled to make out the shapes. I admit that I wanted to be a drone, looking at them from above.

Two overlooks on the trail, Fire Point and Eagle Rock, offered beautiful views of the Mississippi River. They also provided welcome rest stops.

The Mississippi River from Fire Point

The Mississippi River from Eagle Rock

I especially enjoyed spotting the wildflowers along the trail. In Mason City, I saw lilacs, iris, and others, and while the flowers at Effigy Mounds were more subtle, they were just as lovely.

Wildflowers at Effigy Mounds National Monument

There are very few places to stay near Effigy Mounds, but I found an interesting option – Trickling Waters Retreat. This option is like an Airbnb, and I have half of a house. The owner was mowing the grass when I arrived and was so pleasant to talk to. I had picked up food on the way, and I ate my dinner on the back deck. It was so relaxing and peaceful. The place is certainly not my style, but it was perfect for tonight and just what I needed. I loved that it was so low key and spacious, with a place to sit out back and enjoy the beautiful flowers.

From Pipestone to Frank Lloyd Wright

Setting out on a solo road trip after a lapse of eight or so years has involved a bit of an adjustment to fully settle into my “groove.” I was fully prepared with my route, sites to visit, places to stay, and snacks to eat along the way, but there were a few new-to-me things that I needed to figure out.

I had planned to use this trip as an experiment on how I might want to take photos in the future. In the past, I’ve always used a high-quality point and shoot camera. This time, I wanted to try the excellent camera on my smartphone. For me, this has involved a bit of a learning curve since I’ve rarely taken pictures with my phone.

Technology has come a long way, and I’m still getting used to all the features on both the phone and the car. I had loaded all my old iTunes music onto my phone, as well as a few audiobooks. I usually just listen to my favorite XM station, but I wanted to try something different.

Trying to use the phone in the car for all its intended purposes was a bit frustrating. How can I use the phone for several things at once? If it’s plugged into the car audio, how can I then use it to take a photo out the window? How can I listen to audiobooks and use Google maps at the same time? I should have figured out those things before leaving home.

Using the phone to take photos was also frustrating at times. The quality was great, but I had to sign into the phone almost every time I wanted to take a photo. Then, it would often reset to video, instead of photos, especially if I was using the phone on a lanyard.  [After I returned home, Tim showed me the settings that would solve these issues.]

These minor frustrations were how I started my day, but things got so much better, especially after I crossed into Minnesota and reached Pipestone National Monument.

The Exhibits at Pipestone National Monument Were So Informative

Pipestone is an amazing park and far exceeded my expectations. Pipestone has been a sacred gathering place for Native Americans for over 3,000 years. This site has been, and still is, the preferred source of pipestone, the red stone for making pipes.

The exhibits at the Visitor Center tell the story of the pipestone and the sacred pipes used in prayer and ceremony, and they helped me understand the cultural and spiritual significance of the site.

Petroglyphs from the Site Were also on Exhibit

Two Indigenous cultural demonstrators were carving pipestone, and I enjoyed talking with them. The gentleman expressed that he was the fourth-generation carver in his family, but that he doubted there would be a fifth or sixth generation one. His children and grandchildren were only mildly interested, certainly not to make it their profession. He saw my phone, since I had asked if I could take his photo, and he said that’s the problem – new technology. Let’s hope this is not a dying tradition.

Carvers at Work

An Eagle Effigy Pipe Bowl Recently Completed

As always, the rangers were wonderful, including one ranger whom I had met last Fall at the Plains Anthropological Conference.

I headed out on the quarry trail and talked to one of the quarriers. He explained that this area had just had heavy rains for the first time in three years. Usually, there is only snowmelt in the quarries. Now, they were full, and he was forced to pump the water out so he could get to the pipestone. I had been surprised to learn that the pipestone layer is under eight to 14 feet of quartzite. Quarriers must remove by hand all that rock to expose the pipestone, and this process can take weeks or months. Slabs of pipestone must be at least one-half inch thick to be useful for carving.

Quarry Layers and Quarry Pit, with Excavated Pipestone Slabs on the Right

I continued following the circle trail, which features several interesting stops along the way. I passed along the Sioux Quartzite cliffs and climbed the steps to view The Oracle, the profile of a face that can be seen in the rocks.

Passing by the Sioux Quartzite Cliffs

The Oracle, Can You See It?

The trail crossed Pipestone Creek below Winnewissa Falls, which had become much more than a trickle after the recent rain. It was interesting to read that George Catlin, an artist who specialized in portraits of Native Americans, had visited the site in 1836 and had sketched the creek and quartzite cliffs.

Winnewissa Falls

Pipestone Creek as Sketched by George Catlin and Pipestone Creek Today

It was soon time to get back on the road, and I had planned to take back roads all the way to Mason City. Unfortunately, technology reared its evil head once more, and my GPS was not cooperating. I gave up and took the interstate instead. I justified this move by reasoning that I would have more time when I arrived in Iowa.

Although the focus of this road trip was visits to national parks, I realized that Mason City, Iowa, was on my route. Why Mason City? This small city is the unlikely location for a wealth of Prairie School style architecture, including two buildings designed by Frank Lloyd Wright, one of which is the Historic Park Inn, one of the few hotels ever designed by Wright. Frank Lloyd Wright is a particular favorite of mine, and I was not about to miss the opportunity of staying in one of his creations.

The Historic Park Inn Hotel

City National Bank Wing

Completed in 1910, the building complex includes both the Park Inn Hotel and the City National Bank, now a ballroom. I was able to wander throughout the hotel and see many of its original features. The skylight room behind the lobby, for example, contains the original 25 art-glass panels that were found in a nearby home and donated back to the hotel.

Skylight Room, Original Art-Glass Panels, and Sitting Area

I had a delicious dinner in the hotel restaurant, which was my first real dinner on the trip. As I was leaving, my server suggested I check out the bar in the basement, which was redesigned as a speakeasy. So, I headed down there, looked around, and went into the back area with the pool table. I started talking with the couple playing pool and learned that they lived nearby and were celebrating their 55th wedding anniversary.

I almost never talk about politics or religion, but our conversation somehow veered to the subject of politics. Surprisingly, I found kindred spirits – in Iowa! They invited me to sit down, and we ended up talking and drinking for almost two hours. I had planned to go to my room and work on the blog, but sitting with them was so much more important. Meeting local people makes these trips especially memorable, and spending the evening with Paula and Eric made the evening quite special.