Day 32 – Port Stanley, Falkland Islands

Today, Viking Octantis was scheduled to visit West Point Island in the Falkland Islands, but the Captain had previously determined that conditions would not permit our landing there. Instead, he moved up the schedule, and we arrived this morning in Stanley, previously known as Port Stanley, the capital of the Falkland Islands.

Welcome to The Falkland Islands

The Falkland Islands, referred to as The Falklands, is an archipelago in the South Atlantic Ocean known for its remote location and unique wildlife like penguins and albatrosses. The Falklands is a British Overseas Territory with a self-governing population of British descent.

I was excited to see the first penguins of our trip, so Tim and I had selected an included excursion, “Penguins of Bluff Cove Lagoon,” described as follows:

Discover the thriving penguin population and abundant bird species of Bluff Cove Lagoon, a private wildlife haven. Board a minibus and admire the stark landscape as you embark on a scenic drive to the penguin rookery. Set against the backdrop of a large lagoon and white-sand beaches, this pristine nature reserve is home to more than 1,000 breeding pairs of gentoo penguins and a growing colony of king penguins. Observe penguin life and keep watch for the many other birds that frequent the beach, including terns, geese and skuas. Afterward, head to the famous Sea Cabbage Café, where your hosts will serve you complimentary hot beverages and delicious home-baked treats while you sit next to a peat stove and enjoy panoramic views of the beach. You may also explore the gift shop to learn more about the history of the Falkland Islands, or browse for mementos.

It was very windy, with rain in the forecast, as we tendered ashore. Just before we boarded our van, it did begin to rain, and my photos through the window include raindrops. Our drive took us through a landscape characterized by rolling hills, open plains, and mountainous terrain.

Tim Was Ready for the Cold and Wind

Scenery Along the Way to Bluff Cove

Our guide described what we were seeing, including a quirky roadside feature dubbed “Boot Hill.” At one point, a single boot was found and put on a stake. Over the years, many other boots were added, and the collection continues to grow.

Boot Hill

As we turned onto the road leading to Bluff Cove, we saw a mass of boulders in the field. Our guide explained that this was a stone run, a geological phenomenon of great angular boulder accumulations created over 100,000 years ago. When Charles Darwin visited the Falkland Islands, he called the stone runs a “stream of stones.”

A Stone Run or "Stream of Stones"

Our destination today was Bluff Cove Lagoon, which is part of a 35,000 sheep and cattle ranch. Before reaching the cove, we learned that sheep have the right-of-way.

Sheep Have the Right-of-Way on the Ranch

Once we arrived at our destination, Tim and I began to see a few penguins in the distance. These were rookeries of Gentoo penguins. They were difficult to see, since most were lying down.

A Rookery of Gentoo Penguins

Before we knew it, however, several King penguins strutted quite close to us. What majestic birds they are. In fact, they are the second largest penguins after the Emperor. Of course, we kept our distance so as not to disturb them, but we couldn’t take our eyes off them.

Regal King Penguins

In addition to the adult penguins, we also saw several King penguin chicks that were about one year old. The chicks were covered in a mass of fluffy brown down, and at first, we thought they were a separate species. No, we learned. That’s just what chicks look like until they begin to molt this summer and lose their down.

King Penguins and Their Chicks

Watching the penguins was difficult, however, since the winds were so fierce and the rain was still falling. It was even sleeting for a bit. Needless to say, it was freezing cold.

As a result, Tim and I didn’t stick around as long as I would have liked and instead headed to our next viewing area. Along the rocky shore, we saw a large colony of King penguins and a few chicks. After snapping a few photos, we hurried to the the Sea Cabbage Café and Gift Shop to get out of the weather.

More King Penguins Along the Water's Edge

The cream tea in the café was a welcome treat, as was our table next to the warmth of the peat stove. We were offered two homemade cakes and cookies, and I took our guide’s suggestion and requested a scone with cream and Diddle Dee jam. This jam was made from the wild Diddle Dee berries that were gathered in the autumn on the farm hills. I was tempted to purchase a jar to take home.

A Welcome Treat

After resting for a while and warming up, I walked down to the beach to see the Gentoo penguins that were hanging out around the lagoon. Although I loved the King penguins, the Gentoos stole my heart. Although most were lying down, a few waddled their way to the water for a swim. They were so cute!

The Gentoo Penguins Were So Cute

Penguins were not the only animals that we saw. There were lots of very cute lambs and their mothers that kept a close eye on their offspring.

The Lambs Were Also Very Cute

We also saw many pairs of Upland geese that mate for life. Males are white, and females are russet brown.

Upland Geese

Even though the rain had stopped and the sun had come out by the time we returned to Stanley, I was ready to catch the tender back to the ship

At the Daily Briefing, Expedition Leader Olivia commented on the windy weather and said that gusts on the bridge had reached 46 knots. She also passed along an observation that we had experienced all four seasons in one day. It was never summer where I was, but I might go along with the other three. Olivia also showed a magnet with a saying that encompassed everything about the weather in The Falklands, as well as expeditions in general. How true!

An Expedition Weather Forecast

This evening, Specialist Chris presented a lecture on “The Falklands War.” I remembered little about this conflict, so his talk was an excellent refresher. Spoiler alert: the British defeated the Argentinians.

The Falklands War

Day 31 – Sailing the South Atlantic Ocean

Today is a sea day as we make our way to the Falkland Islands. Conditions are fair, and we are keeping our fingers crossed that we will be able to visit the Falklands, a destination that is frequently missed.

The Falkland Islands takes biosecurity very seriously to prevent new pests, diseases, or invasive species from entering the Islands. To ensure compliance, we were required to have any outerwear, shoes, and gear we might use there inspected by the Expedition Team.

Biosecurity Inspection

The day after the arrival of new passengers is typically a good time to do laundry, so that’s what I did this afternoon.

Specialist Loreen presented the first of five lectures on Antarctica this evening. This one was on the “Early Exploration of Antarctica – From Unknown to the Seventh Continent.” I loved the map from the 1600s that simply showed Antarctica as Terra Incognito. No one had any idea what was down there.

Early Antarctica Exploration

Day 30 – Ushuaia, Argentina

Tim and I awoke this morning in Ushuaia, Argentina, the "City at the End of the World," as Viking Octantis had arrived here late yesterday evening. Today was a turnaround day, when most passengers disembarked and were replaced by new passengers. This is the second turnaround day we’ve experienced, and our cruise has a different feeling because of this type of change every two weeks.

Welcome to Ushuaia

Ushuaia, the southernmost city in the world, is located between the Beagle Channel, which we sailed yesterday, and the southernmost slopes of the Andes Mountains. I found it amusing that Punta Arenas, which we visited several days ago, also likes to describe itself as the southernmost city. Punta Arenas does add a modifier to the designation, however – it’s the southernmost large city. It seems that every city must have some claim to fame.

Ushuaia, Argentina

While Tim decided to take the included excursion to explore the panoramic sights of Ushuaia, I opted for a six-hour excursion to see the mountain vistas of the Fuegian Andes. The excursion, entitled “Scenic Drive to the Escondido and Fagnano Lakes,” was described as follows:

Marvel at the beauty of Argentinian nature on this scenic drive to the lakes and forests of the Fuegian Andes. Ushuaia, commonly referred to as the southernmost city in the world, is located in a wide bay along the southern coast of Tierra del Fuego Island, surrounded by mountains and areas of outstanding natural beauty. Enjoy a scenic drive as you travel along the Pan-American Highway toward the north side of the island. Admire the view of the region’s lakes and valleys as you make your way across the Fuegian Andes, climbing to an elevation of nearly 1,500 feet at the famous Garibaldi Pass. Continue your journey to Lake Escondido and Lake Fagnano, where you will have time to take in the views or go on a short forest trail walk before lunch. A perfect combination of ocean vistas and lush green landscapes, offering stunning photographic opportunities and refreshing relaxation.

We left the city behind and began our drive on the Pan-American Highway, the world's longest road network, connecting Prudhoe Bay in Alaska to the tip of Argentina in Ushuaia. We entered Tierra del Fuego National Park, which features a diverse landscape of mountains and forests, and where we would spend the day.

The mountain range around us was the Fuegian Andes, the southernmost and terminal portion of the Andes mountain range. We learned that the Fuegian Andes were the result of one of the most dramatic geological processes occurring on Earth today—the ongoing collision between the Nazca Plate and the South American Plate. This struggle began approximately 200 million years ago during the Jurassic Period and continues to this day, creating a zone of intense seismic activity and volcanic eruptions that extends along the entire western edge of South America.

However the mountains were created, I found their jagged mountain peaks to be quite dramatic and beautiful, and I loved climbing ever higher. At the base of the mountains, in the wide valley bottoms, we saw peat bogs that were carved by glaciers and later became shallow ponds or swampy areas. These play a crucial role in the region’s ecology.

Scenery Along the Pan-American Highway

Before long, we reached Garibaldi Pass, the only road pass that crosses the Fuegian Andes and the southernmost road crossing of the Andes mountains. The panoramic view of the surrounding landscape from the pass was stunning. Two large glacial lakes, Lake Escondido, or Hidden Lake, in the foreground and Lake Fagnano behind, were surrounded by steep mountain peaks. It was a picture-postcard view, and everyone tried to capture the perfect shot.

View from Garibaldi Pass, with the Pan-American Highway on the Right

Spectacular Mountain Landscape

Lake Escondido in the Foreground and Lake Fagnano in the Background

We then descended to the low mountain valley, where we detoured to the edge of Lake Fagnano. The water was cold!

Lake Fagnano

It was soon time to retrace our route back to Ushuaia. On the way, we stopped for lunch at Las Cotorras, where we had a traditional meal of lamb that was slow roasted on an iron cross over an open fire, along with salad and potatoes. An Argentinian malbec was the perfect accompaniment.

Our Lunch Featured Argentinian Lamb

After a bowl of ice cream, we were treated to a cup of the most amazing coffee, known as “mountain coffee” or “monkey coffee.” This hot, alcoholic beverage originated in Ushuaia and includes coffee and various alcoholic drinks and spices. The coffee is prepared in a giant kettle and heated over a wood fire. It was delicious.

Café de la Montaña

As we returned to Ushuaia, we had expansive views of the Beagle Channel, where Viking Octantis was docked. Many of us got off in town to do a little exploration on our own. I passed many of the city’s historic buildings, many of which are now museums, and was surprised to see so many spring flowers. Yes, it is spring in South America.

Beagle Channel

End of the World Museum (top left), Old Government House (top right), Maritime and Prison Museum of Ushuaia (bottom left), and Provincial Legislature Building (bottom right)

It's Spring in Ushuaia

My favorite site in the city was the Monument of Ancient People and Pioneers of Ushuaia, a large, swooping albatross containing bas-relief sculptures that represent various aspects of the city’s history. This monument pays tribute to both the indigenous peoples who lived in Tierra del Fuego for millennia and the later settlers who shaped the city's history.

Monument of Ancient People and Pioneers of Ushuaia

Bas-Relief Sculptures Around the Outside of the Monument Depicting Scenes of the Early Settlers (top and center right, and bottom left), and the Indigenous Peoples Inside the Monument (bottom right)

After returning to the ship, I began to get ready for an early dinner at Manfredi’s. Tim and I watched the Daily Briefing, where the Expedition Team was introduced to the new passengers. Several new team members also boarded the ship today, and I look forward to meeting them.

The Expedition Team Continues to Grow

Since Viking Octantis remained in port until 11:00 pm, I was able to enjoy the views of the city and Beagle Channel as the light changed. It was a wonderful day, and I so enjoyed getting out into the Argentine countryside.

Farewell, Ushuaia

Day 29 –Scenic Cruising of Cape Horn, Chile

I surprised myself this morning by getting up very early once again to witness our sailing to Cape Horn. Viking Octantis did not arrive at the Horn via the scheduled route, however. Because of the rough conditions in the open ocean last night, the Captain made the decision to sail the Beagle Channel instead.

The Captain was determined to take us to Cape Horn, however, so he exited the Beagle Channel and approached the Horn from the east, despite a wind speed of 52 knots.

Our Route To and From Cape Horn

The Expedition Team provided commentary as we approached Cape Horn, a treacherous, rocky headland on Hornos Island at the southern tip of the Chilean Tierra del Fuego archipelago. Cape Horn marks the meeting point of the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans and was the primary, but extremely dangerous, route between the oceans before the Panama Canal was built. Today, the Horn is no longer a shipping route.

Approaching Cape Horn

On the island are a Chilean naval station, lighthouse, and memorial. Because a Chilean pilot was onboard Viking Octantis, we were allowed to sail very close to Cape Horn and get a good look at the lighthouse. I learned later that conditions prevented Viking Polaris, our sister ship, from sailing by Cape Horn, so I feel very lucky to have seen this landmark.

The Lighthouse at Cape Horn

At lunch, a Tiramisu Station was quite popular. It’s too bad that one of the penguins manning (birding?) the station had a broken arm.

Tiramisu Station

Around 4:30 pm, we reached Puerto Williams, Chile, in the Beagle Channel. Ships passing through Puerto Williams are required to complete various clearance and inspection procedures with local authorities, and we were advised that this could take several hours. When I asked why it might take so long, one of our Expedition Team members jokingly said that Chilean authorities love stamps. Only one ship was in front of us, but we still were not cleared until 8:00 pm.

Waiting Our Turn at Puerto Williams - A Ponant Ship Was Ahead of Us

Beautiful Mountain Views as We Finally Left Puerto Williams

Viviana Guzman, who entertained us with her flute two days ago, was back for a final performance, “Nomadic Notes, Music Without Borders.” She performed a variety of music to a backdrop of beautiful videos.

Viviana Guzman and Her Flute

Today marked the end of the second segment of our cruise, from Valparaiso to Ushuaia. Up next is a round trip from Ushuaia to visit Antarctica.

Segment 2 - Valparaiso, Chile, to Ushuaia, Argentina

Day 28 – Garibaldi Fjord, Chile

Viking Octantis was still sailing when I cautiously opened the blinds this morning. Would it be raining, as predicted, or would we be lucky? Although there were raindrops on the window and the sky was overcast, it was not raining. Hooray!

Today was our day to sail the Garibaldi Fjord. This fjord, as well as the Agostini Fjord which we visited yesterday, is located within a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve. The fjord is one of Chile’s most beautiful and is characterized by towering cliffs that rise from the water. The cliffs are covered with forests at their bases, glaciers at their peaks, and hundreds of waterfall ribbons at their faces.

My First Look at the Scenery along the Garibaldi Fjord

At the head of the fjord is the spectacular Garibaldi Glacier. This glacier is unusual due to its medial moraine, a geologic feature that forms at the union of two glaciers. It appears as if a dark line has been drawn down the center of the glacier, separating it into two halves.

While Tim and I were at breakfast, I happened to look up and saw that the glacier was coming into view. Everyone, including the crew, made a beeline to the outer deck to photograph this beautiful sight. Too soon, however, the ship made a U-turn, and we lost sight of the glacier. We had been advised yesterday that we would most likely be anchoring nearby, which we did. Although it seemed that the Captain just wanted to give us a peek at this majestic glacier, I learned later that he had determined it was not safe to anchor too close to it.

Garibaldi Glacier

Tim and I were booked on a Special Operations Boat (SOB) excursion, so we suited up and made our way to the hanger. Specialist Loreen was our guide, and she provided commentary throughout the ride. The highlight of the ride was the closeup view of the Garibaldi Glacier. It was a magnificent sight.

Tim and Sarah in Our SOB

Our Views of Viking Octantis as We Sailed Away in the SOB

Getting Closer and Closer to Garibaldi Glacier

As we turned back to the ship, we traveled close to the shore, where we saw waterfalls and various birds, including a rookery of Imperial Cormorants, nesting on the steep rock face. When Tim returned a short while later on a zodiac cruise, he saw a hawk feasting on the eggs. That’s nature!

Beautiful Scenery in the Garibaldi Fjord

Rookery of Imperial Cormorants (top) and Hawk Feasting on Cormorant Eggs (bottom)

Lunch today included a special Churrasco Sandwich station. Churrasco is a traditional Chilean dish of thin-sliced grilled steak, and it was delicious, although quite messy.

Churrasco Sandwich Station, Courtesy of Executive Chef Beni, Hotel General Manager Anastasios,
and Executive Housekeeper Goran

When we were on the SOB, virtually all the floating ice in the fjord was located immediately in front of the glacier. By the time Tim and I had finished our lunch, the tide had changed, and Viking Octantis was now surrounded by ice. What a sight!

Garibaldi Fjord Filled with Ice

Tonight was the Viking Farewell Reception for those guests disembarking in Ushuaia, Argentina. Tim and I had not planned to attend, since we’re not disembarking, but we happened to watch the show on our Stateroom TV. I’m rather sorry we did since it may have spoiled the surprise for our own Farewell Reception in two weeks.

At dinner, we sat next to a lovely couple we had met last night. John and Nancy are from Washington State, and Tim and I thoroughly enjoyed our conversation. It reminded me of the connection we made with Jacquee and Larry, who sat next to us most days on the World Cruise. Unfortunately, John and Nancy will be disembarking in two days.

John and Nancy

As we exited the Garibaldi Fjord this evening, we moved into the Beagle Channel, a strait in Tierra del Fuego that is about 150 miles long and three to eight miles wide and forms part of the Chile-Argentina border. Here, we continued to see many other glaciers. Some were hanging glaciers, while others were tidal glaciers, all of which had that beautiful blue color. We continue to be treated to more and more beautiful scenery every day.

The Beautiful Beagle Channel

Day 27 – Glacier Agostini, Chile

I suppose our amazing streak of luck with the weather had to come to an end sometime, and that sometime was today. When I opened the blinds, I could barely see through the raindrops on the window. Viking Octantis had already anchored in front of Agostini Glacier, but the glacier and surrounding mountains were partially shrouded in fog and mist, and it was a mostly black and white scene.

Is That a Glacier Behind the Raindrops? (top) and Yes, That Is Agostini Glacier (bottom)

A Black and White Day

We are now in Alberto Agostini National Park, the third largest park in Chile and will remain here through tomorrow. It was interesting to learn that the mountains here are not the Andes. They are the Cordillera Darwin, an extensive mountain range mantled by an ice field.

During the morning, Seabourn Pursuit sailed by and left, and MV Ventus Australis anchored in front of the glacier, deployed its toys for a short while, departed, and later returned. We remained until our departure at 6:00 pm.

I accepted the fact that I would not be venturing out in this weather, but Tim has a heartier constitution than I. He suited up with all his cold and wet weather gear, including his heavy waterproof boots, and headed out for his zodiac landing excursion at Agostini Glacier. It appeared, however, that many passengers, like me, had cancelled their excursions.

Tim at Agostini Glacier

Tim returned an hour later, wet but happy, and once again he shared his photos with me. Each cabin has a drying closet for wet gear, and we tested it out today. I was surprised at how quickly the items dried.

Tim Was Able to Capture the Glacial Blue Color Since He Was So Close to the Glacier

The Zodiac Landing and Hike to the Glacier Viewing Spot

Executive Chef Beni brought us another Wine and Cheese station for dinner this evening, and I enjoyed it just as much as the first time. Although both the wine and cheese selections were excellent, what I appreciated just as much was the bread that was paired with the cheese. The various breads on Viking Octantis are to die for, and I believe I could live on just the bread alone!

Wine and Cheese Station

This evening, Viking Octantis presented a guest entertainer, Viviana Guzman in “Sonic Silk Road, A Musical Journey Across Time and Cultures.” This Chilean-born instrumentalist played a wonderful selection of songs on a variety of flutes, from classical to Native American. It was enchanting.

Entertainer Viviana Guzman